Car drives like a pig!

Started by The Other Stu, June 15, 2017, 13:33

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ChrisGB

#25
June 16, 2017, 09:10 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I've experienced similar after having work done. The lower arm and trailing arm bolts need to be tightened from the bolt head end as the nuts have 4 raised lock features on them. On mine, it was a lower arm inboard bolt that was under torqued. It didn't move pulling stuff about under the car, but getting a torque wrench on all the bolts showed this one to be under tightened​. Nipped it up to the correct torque and all was well.
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

The Other Stu

#26
June 16, 2017, 10:27 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Thanks Chris and Carolyn - that sounds like it might be the answer!
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The Other Stu

#27
June 16, 2017, 11:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "jonbill"Toyota-tech.eu has it all if you can't find it elsewhere on line.
I'd start with quick and dirty  - I reckon  all bolt heads 17mm and bigger should be as tight as you can make them with a normal spanner or socket ratchet
Ok, I'm struggling with that site on where to start!

When you say socket, a standard one, not a breaker bar?
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Carolyn

#28
June 16, 2017, 12:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I use a large ratchet on the bolt head and hold the nut with a combi spanner.  Just do them up tight.  You won't hurt bolts that size!!
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

The Other Stu

#29
June 16, 2017, 22:42 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
OK, first things first (because it's going to take me ages to work out the other stuff)
The answer to Carolyn is yes, yes you can. As it happens, I'd barely started tightening this when I realised it was far too loose and wasn't actually tightening. I don't remember doing it, so I'll hazard a guess that it was done when they sorted the tracking.


That's the one that goes behind the hub, middle arm. I'm going to kindly "borrow" FGRobs picture (I wish mine looked this clean)


So that's the first job I'm going to have to fix.
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The Other Stu

#30
June 16, 2017, 22:50 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
OK, next up, I was wrong about the mid-engine mount. It was, well, soft!
Where it used to go up and down, when I put it back, it appears to go backwards and forwards!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7Be5cjYUzA
Ah, I can do it as an image

In addition, I'm not sure it's supposed to go round like this?
I definitely can't get the bolt out of the middle. Should I be able to?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTo54RHgU9c


I'm going to report this post btw. Youtube links don't work  s:( :( s:(

In case you're wondering, I've filled it entirely with tigerseal as someone suggested.

I don't think btw either of these problems are what's causing the car to drive badly.
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ChrisGB

#31
June 16, 2017, 23:25 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Highly probable that you have found the cause of the problem there. However, I can't see any reason for a garage to touch that one when doing tracking. If you are big enough, it's surprising how feeble a sturdy looking bolt can be.

As you posted part two as I was posting this reply, I'll elucidate. The lower arm bolt should be at a certain torque (can't remember what and no access to the BGB this evening), but from memory it's pretty tight. Without the proper clamping force, the bush inside the joint can shift about a little on the bolt and this will cause the symptoms you described. I would use a torque spanner on all of those bolts, no matter how tricky it is to get it in there, as they are all strippable with a 12" ratchet.

I've had problems twice in this area, one was the lower arm inboard bolt, caused exactly what you described, second episode was a trailing arm inboard bolt, similar effects under braking, but not as dramatic under cornering load, this one was audible, conking when applying power..  I now run them all at +10% torque, but it does have a bit more shove and grip than standard.
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

The Other Stu

#32
June 16, 2017, 23:44 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
I've got the manuals. Off the top of my head, 87nm which is very, very tight (My torque wrench is one of those 60-300 huge breaker-type ones).
It's that or 78, which is still tight.

The one that isn't so bad (around 50 something) is the rear one with the bush.

Will it really have that big an effect though? I mean, this seriously affects the handling of the car, not to mention the braking.
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ChrisGB

#33
June 16, 2017, 23:50 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Oh yes, it was properly scary.
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

Carolyn

#34
June 17, 2017, 09:28 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Let the Tiger seal cure for at least 24 hours before reloading the mount.  That way it will stay centred.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

The Other Stu

#35
June 17, 2017, 10:23 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Carolyn"Let the Tiger seal cure for at least 24 hours before reloading the mount.  That way it will stay centred.
Yup, have done exactly that. Cars going nowhere without a bolt anyway.
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The Other Stu

#36
June 17, 2017, 21:03 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Right, big thanks to ChrisGB. Nail >>>>>>>> Head.

Went and bought a high-tensile steel bolt, exactly the same size and Class 10.9 bolt which has a starting recommendation of 134 Nm so perfectly safe for something that wants 103 (that's a high torque bolt - you're absolutely right)

Took the car out for a spin and hey presto, the "nip" has gone entirely. I have a funny noise at really slow speeds, so something somewhere is obviously knocking, but the car drives wonderfully.

Feel much safer now.

How weird that something supposedly so incidental and small makes such a huge difference!
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Ardent

#37
June 17, 2017, 22:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Got to love these cars.
The satisfaction is priceless

Well played sir

mikek

#38
June 18, 2017, 16:28 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Well done Stu!  And thanks to you I've sorted out mine as well. Same arms but the other end. Bolts were tight but not as tight as they should be. Tightened them back up and no more scary braking! I guess the slightest movement at that end transmits into what feels like a massive amount of movement at the other end right at the point you really don't want any.....When trying to stop!
2zz by Rogue. Se7en cams. BMC CDA. Competion clutches lightened flywheel, Megillian Racing Exhaust. TRD sportivo suspension and ARB\'s. TRD braces. TRD quick shift. TRD dash kit, Matts brace. Getting there but not sure when it will stop!

mikek

#39
June 18, 2017, 16:30 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "Ardent"Got to love these cars.
The satisfaction is priceless

Well played sir

Gotta love this forum and the people on it. The information and help available is amazing!
2zz by Rogue. Se7en cams. BMC CDA. Competion clutches lightened flywheel, Megillian Racing Exhaust. TRD sportivo suspension and ARB\'s. TRD braces. TRD quick shift. TRD dash kit, Matts brace. Getting there but not sure when it will stop!

MR TWO

#40
June 18, 2017, 19:06 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "The Other Stu"Feel much safer now.

How weird that something supposedly so incidental and small makes such a huge difference!

Glad to know you have resolved the problem, and that its back feeling safe!

I totally agree, its amazing how often small bits and pieces not working correctly can make such a big difference to the car.
1MZFE, Emerald ECU, LSD, BC coilovers, custom middle & front under brace, F / R strut brace. Slotted discs & yellow pads, Blue flame exhaust.
Carrera leather seats, Davids bars, Focal subwoofer & voce speakers & bling !
TRD Stage 2 F & R spoilers,  Haltezza bonnet, C1 side vents, JDL rear panel

The Other Stu

#41
June 19, 2017, 09:43 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "mikek"
Quote from: "Ardent"Got to love these cars.
The satisfaction is priceless

Well played sir

Gotta love this forum and the people on it. The information and help available is amazing!
This.

Although to be fair, had I have not had the forum, I would simply have paid a grand to have the subframe replaced.
But it's a great experience learning yourself, which was why I bought the car!
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mikek

#42
June 19, 2017, 18:42 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "The Other Stu"
Quote from: "mikek"
Quote from: "Ardent"Got to love these cars.
The satisfaction is priceless

Well played sir

Gotta love this forum and the people on it. The information and help available is amazing!
This.

Although to be fair, had I have not had the forum, I would simply have paid a grand to have the subframe replaced.
But it's a great experience learning yourself, which was why I bought the car!

Me too
2zz by Rogue. Se7en cams. BMC CDA. Competion clutches lightened flywheel, Megillian Racing Exhaust. TRD sportivo suspension and ARB\'s. TRD braces. TRD quick shift. TRD dash kit, Matts brace. Getting there but not sure when it will stop!
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