Bargain-bucket MR2

[The Arch Bishop]

I had the pleasure of giving the yellow peril a spin (not literally) last weekend and it was quite eye-opening to be honest. This 50,000 mile car felt like a different league to mine.

Most jarring was that it went where I pointed it with no wandering and no lurching or bobbing over undulations. This was on Landsail tyres as well which are, I think it's fair to say, utter tripe. I'm pretty sure I need some new front shocks...

Second thing that stuck out was the gear box - admittedly the 6 speed version, but it was easy and fun to snick down through the ratios coming into a bend. Mine is like waggling a stick in semi-set concrete while wearing boxing gloves. I think I need to look at the bushes...

Third most obvious was the throttle smoothness. Rolling on and off the throttle or between gear changes was as smooth as an oiled weasel, rather than the jerky hesitating mess that mine can be. I think I need to look at the throttle butterfly sticking or the TPS.... Advice would be gratefully received!

Lastly there was the brakes. Mine stop the car really well, but the little yellow beauty had very little travel before braking started whereas mine is about a third of the travel before anything happens. I need to bleed the brakes through properly...

So my goodness I have some work to do! All very much within what I expected when I bought the car though. 500 quid buys you a car that needs work - that is a very basic rule of cheapy car buying and it's very unusual for this rule not to be the case. The good news is that once you've done this work, you've a fully recommissioned car full of new bits for the same price (or thereabouts) of a car with half-worn parts. There's some logic in here probably... or not.

Anyway, it was great to drive a fully-fit example. I even got to do some spannering on it as it was bought with the EML firmly on. I read the codes and discovered that all three O2 sensors were on the blink. My dad had bought one Denso sensor (the one on the back), so being fully versed in removing it, I changed it out. This cleared one code but the other two remained.

Spurred on by this, the old man decided to get it sorted that weekend and found some stock of HASS sensors at a nearby Eurocar Parts. We managed to easily remove one of the sensors from the manifold with little effort and screwed the new HASS sensor in by hand finishing off with a half turn using a small extension. Then we discovered that these HASS sensors have a lead that is around 5mm too short to comfortably clip in to the connector attached to the block. So it was decided to remove it and get a refund, be more patient and order the OEM Denso equivalents.

But... removing it...that was not to be. Some how it was not coming out. Bearing in mind that it's pretty much impossible to cross thread something by hand unless you are 8 foot tall, green and exist in the Marvell universe, it was stuck fast. In the end, we connected it up as best we could and left it alone. A stainless manifold is on the cards and decent Denso sensors are also on order.

Regardless, posts from now on will be back to my car and might, just maybe have photos to make it more interesting!

[The Arch Bishop]

So back to the bargain-bucket.

With the Winter fast approaching and a multitude of minor issues to fix, it was time to get my little cheapy banger in the garage.

I started off by giving it a good old clean up. Silver hides the dirt well and it didn't look like a filthy grim-box, but after 40 mins with a bucket and suds, I was reminded how straight and tidy it looked. To avoid the brakes getting rusted up, I went on a run to clean the disks and to blow out any damp cobwebs. On entering the first roundabout, I heard a distinct sloshing noise which continued around other bends. Clearly the drains (that I promised and fully intended to clean out) were blocked.

On getting home, I looked in the rear lockers and sure enough, there was water in there;



I pulled the side intakes off to clear the blockages and a good spray with the hose up the driver's-side tube seemed to clear the blockage. Lots of water out! Switched to the other side and no problems there.

To ensure all was clear, I had a fish about at the top of the drains. The passenger side was clear and all good. The driver's-side held a surprise in the form of hosiery.



Yes, that is, as far as I have been able to ascertain, a small woman's or child-sized sock.

A sock.

A dirty, black mislaid sock.

Horrific.

 It was soggy and probably beyond salvage.

With the cotton-blockage removed, the drain flowed unhindered and normal service was resumed.



Seriously - a flipping sock.

Ugh.

Moving swiftly on, it was time to get it wrapped up in the garage. It's wider but shorter than the last incumbent, my old MGF, but after some shuffling about, fitted nicely.

Random photo's ahoy!!













I've ordered some replacement gear-shift bushes, after noticing that I could wiggle the stick by a good inch in all directions when in gear, so I can crack on with that soon. When funds allow, I'll be ordering some KYB shocks to attempt to sort the wandering of the front end and there's a load of other stuff to consider.  Need to get it done before the temperature in the garage dips. I'm a fair weather tinkerer after all.

[The Arch Bishop]

With the weather now not mattering coz it's in the garage, I decided to investigate the steering joint for free-play.

Removed the enormous cover and was treated to a view of splendour...



Ok, well a view of dusty components and spider webs, but I wasn't expecting much, so with that I could have a butcher's at the steering joint;





It don't look pretty that's for sure, but then it was never going to be. The steering itself is not heavy or tight at any point and there's about 2 to 3mm of slack in it. I'm not sure what's acceptable though! I don't think such a small amount of play would translate to the wandering I'm experiencing, so I may leave this for the time being after I've put some grease around it.

[lamcote]

Maybe the "wandering front end" and "2 to 3mm of slack" in the steering joint are related?

I had very old and worn dampers but never experienced anything like wandering. There are however many other good reasons to renew your dampers.

[Call the midlife!]

The UJs are prone to catastrophic failure due to corrosion, mine wasn't as bad as that and I replaced it, they're only around £70 from TCB and well worth the investment.
I'd say that one looks towards end of life, you don't want it coming apart on you that's for sure.


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[Bossworld]

I had the pleasure of giving the yellow peril a spin (not literally) last weekend and it was quite eye-opening to be honest. This 50,000 mile car felt like a different league to mine.

Most jarring was that it went where I pointed it with no wandering and no lurching or bobbing over undulations. This was on Landsail tyres as well which are, I think it's fair to say, utter tripe. I'm pretty sure I need some new front shocks...

Second thing that stuck out was the gear box - admittedly the 6 speed version, but it was easy and fun to snick down through the ratios coming into a bend. Mine is like waggling a stick in semi-set concrete while wearing boxing gloves. I think I need to look at the bushes...

Third most obvious was the throttle smoothness. Rolling on and off the throttle or between gear changes was as smooth as an oiled weasel, rather than the jerky hesitating mess that mine can be. I think I need to look at the throttle butterfly sticking or the TPS.... Advice would be gratefully received!

Lastly there was the brakes. Mine stop the car really well, but the little yellow beauty had very little travel before braking started whereas mine is about a third of the travel before anything happens. I need to bleed the brakes through properly...

So my goodness I have some work to do! All very much within what I expected when I bought the car though. 500 quid buys you a car that needs work - that is a very basic rule of cheapy car buying and it's very unusual for this rule not to be the case. The good news is that once you've done this work, you've a fully recommissioned car full of new bits for the same price (or thereabouts) of a car with half-worn parts. There's some logic in here probably... or not.

Anyway, it was great to drive a fully-fit example. I even got to do some spannering on it as it was bought with the EML firmly on. I read the codes and discovered that all three O2 sensors were on the blink. My dad had bought one Denso sensor (the one on the back), so being fully versed in removing it, I changed it out. This cleared one code but the other two remained.

Spurred on by this, the old man decided to get it sorted that weekend and found some stock of HASS sensors at a nearby Eurocar Parts. We managed to easily remove one of the sensors from the manifold with little effort and screwed the new HASS sensor in by hand finishing off with a half turn using a small extension. Then we discovered that these HASS sensors have a lead that is around 5mm too short to comfortably clip in to the connector attached to the block. So it was decided to remove it and get a refund, be more patient and order the OEM Denso equivalents.

But... removing it...that was not to be. Some how it was not coming out. Bearing in mind that it's pretty much impossible to cross thread something by hand unless you are 8 foot tall, green and exist in the Marvell universe, it was stuck fast. In the end, we connected it up as best we could and left it alone. A stainless manifold is on the cards and decent Denso sensors are also on order.

Regardless, posts from now on will be back to my car and might, just maybe have photos to make it more interesting!

If it's any consolation (and at the big risk of repeating another post I'll have made somewhere), I left mine at my mum's back in March for a fortnight, while a family friend mechanic did the rear crossmember swap.

Got a phone call off her, saying 'there's something I need to tell you about the car'.  Turned out that she was that impressed she'd bought one herself.  Albeit £300 more than mine, and 6 months older, but 60,000 miles fewer.  Everything in her car feels more solid and slick, much in the same way you describe.  That said, hers still needed a new crossmember as well.

Grass is always greener, and all that.

[The Arch Bishop]

The UJs are prone to catastrophic failure due to corrosion, mine wasn't as bad as that and I replaced it, they're only around £70 from TCB and well worth the investment.
I'd say that one looks towards end of life, you don't want it coming apart on you that's for sure.

Yes, I'll be ordering one up. The UK Facebook group lost their collective stuff when they saw the UJ picture!

[Call the midlife!]

The UJs are prone to catastrophic failure due to corrosion, mine wasn't as bad as that and I replaced it, they're only around £70 from TCB and well worth the investment.
I'd say that one looks towards end of life, you don't want it coming apart on you that's for sure.

Yes, I'll be ordering one up. The UK Facebook group lost their collective stuff when they saw the UJ picture!

Haha! Yeah, they do do that, don't they? I've not seen it there but the "how to" on here is top notch.


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[delhusband]

Eek! Thought mine was bad. Had a giggle at the sock find  s:) s:)

[The Arch Bishop]

And the little so and so is off!

Took a fair amount of hammering (like everything else so far) but one it started;



It yielded in the end!



Once the loose black paint had rattled itself off, it didn't look quite the horror show it did before!

[Call the midlife!]

And the little so and so is off!

Took a fair amount of hammering (like everything else so far) but one it started;



It yielded in the end!



Once the loose black paint had rattled itself off, it didn't look quite the horror show it did before!

I don't know how to break this to you but there should be another shaft on that...[emoji23]


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[The Arch Bishop]

Really? It's this section I'm replacing;



This is what I've removed so I think I've got it all?!

[Call the midlife!]

Really? It's this section I'm replacing;



This is what I've removed so I think I've got it all?!

Apologies buddy, I've just zoomed in and seen the spline clamp underneath it, mine came off as a whole unit so expected to see the bottom clamp still attached!
Well done on the perseverance though, I found it helpful to turn the clamp to the top and really open it up.
Regarding your question about fitting a gaitor, if you slide one on before you fit the new one you won't have to split it and glue it after.
It's probably worth getting a new rubber grommet/seal for the bulkhead while you're at it as I'm sure it will have perished. TCB can get them.


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[The Arch Bishop]

No worries - the photo looks a little misleading, but you did have me worried there for a bit!

Have you got a link to a suitable gaitor? Any pictures of yours in situ?

[Call the midlife!]

No worries - the photo looks a little misleading, but you did have me worried there for a bit!

Have you got a link to a suitable gaitor? Any pictures of yours in situ?

To be honest I thought you'd pulled the steering shaft out with it at first!
Sorry, no, I just liberally coated mine with lithium grease rather than have a potential moisture trap around it.
I've read of some who've gaitored theirs but couldn't say who I'm afraid.


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[The Arch Bishop]

No worries - the photo looks a little misleading, but you did have me worried there for a bit!

Have you got a link to a suitable gaitor? Any pictures of yours in situ?

To be honest I thought you'd pulled the steering shaft out with it at first!
Sorry, no, I just liberally coated mine with lithium grease rather than have a potential moisture trap around it.
I've read of some who've gaitored theirs but couldn't say who I'm afraid.


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Good point regarding the moisture trap. Someone mentioned that others have used bike inner-tubes to wrap them and then squirted grease in, sealed the ends up etc. I'm in two minds as the car will live in the garage during the Winter and I'll be adding re-greasing it to the yearly maintenance list anyway.

[Topdownman]

I think the gaiter was mentioned a while ago but I think it turned out they were talking about the one into the cabin rather than one to fit over the UJ.

Cant say I have seen any pictures of anyone actually have done one on the UJ (not to say it hasnt been done by someone though).

As you say, now you know it needs greasing at service time you should be OK.

[The Arch Bishop]

WARNING - The following pictures contain graphic images or rust taken under unflattering light conditions with a flash. If you or anyone in your family finds ferrous oxide disturbing, please look away now...

In all seriousness, the pictures here seem to show something dug up from the sea-bed, but using eyes rather than cameras, it's not an MOT-baiting disaster it appears here!

While the UJ was off, it was a good time to investigate a problem spot I'd read about on da internetz - rusty PAS pipes.

And LO! Mine was no exception;



Like the rest of the mank I've found so far, it was luckily only surface rust and cleaned up fine.

A lick of Hydrate 80;



And some Hamerite;



..and any pesky, perished, power-steering problems are prevented.

You'll notice that I've avoided painting the fastenings themselves just in case I need to ever remove them.

While I had the Hydrate out, I decided to take a screwdriver to some of the crustiest bits of the chassis and attempt to stop the rot. Mine is probably not a great example so don't go panicking that this is normal - anyway the old girl is 17, so she's allowed some frilly bits!





Luckily, it is actually very minimal as it's the early stages where it's just begun lifting the paint. After some scraping and cleaning up, I've given the orange bits a good old coating. I'm trying to decide whether to paint afterwards, but as I've probably mentioned before, a few coats of Hydrate can be left as is and doesn't really require over-painting. As it's going to be all covered up anyway with the frunk plastics. I may just leave like this.

In the meantime, I've been getting a few bits and bobs together. First is the new steering UJ bought from the very kind dellhusband (cheers mate!). It certainly looks a lot better;



And I'm happy to say that it's a little less floppy than the existing one, although it's given me piece of mind that the old UJ, although looking pretty rough, was not in danger of suddenly disassembling itself! Once I've finished faffin' around with rust-proofing, I'll get it fitted.

My other purchase is a set of gear linkage bushes to try and sort out the floppy flappy shift quality I've got at the moment. Mmmm....shiny...

[CrazySX]

If your bushes are knackered you should notice a great improvement. Mine were ok and tbh I felt little to no difference.

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[The Arch Bishop]

In their current state, if you stick it in third gear, you can still move the stick from side to side by about an inch. Front to back is the same - the box feels a bit of a mess and the six-speeder I drove was light and positive, so I'm really looking forward to a big improvement!

Nothing like a baggy 'box to make a car feel a bit worn out!

[CrazySX]

That must be horrible! Have you had a look at the bushes? My mates 04 was a but sloppy. I looked at his bushes and one had loads of play. I swapped it out for one of my old ones as I kept them (hoarder). The difference was night and day!

Just remember to do the left one first. The most difficult one lol and Use a bolt and a penny washer to pull the new ones down, as they can be a tight fit.

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[Call the midlife!]

Just a thought but the actual gear shift cage itself is mounted on rubber bushed mounts to the chassis. (Assuming you don't already know this)
Lateral play in the gear lever itself could be down to the cage mount itself possibly?


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[The Arch Bishop]

That must be horrible! Have you had a look at the bushes? My mates 04 was a but sloppy. I looked at his bushes and one had loads of play. I swapped it out for one of my old ones as I kept them (hoarder). The difference was night and day!

Just remember to do the left one first. The most difficult one lol and Use a bolt and a penny washer to pull the new ones down, as they can be a tight fit.

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Yes I've had a bit of a look at them - they look pretty tired.

Cheers for the advice - it doesn't look like a complicated job, but the access is tight and the easier things look, the quicker they tend to go south!

Just a thought but the actual gear shift cage itself is mounted on rubber bushed mounts to the chassis. (Assuming you don't already know this)
Lateral play in the gear lever itself could be down to the cage mount itself possibly?

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Cheers! Will certainly give it a look! It'll likely be the thing that I haven't got the bits for...   s:) s:)

[Call the midlife!]

That must be horrible! Have you had a look at the bushes? My mates 04 was a but sloppy. I looked at his bushes and one had loads of play. I swapped it out for one of my old ones as I kept them (hoarder). The difference was night and day!

Just remember to do the left one first. The most difficult one lol and Use a bolt and a penny washer to pull the new ones down, as they can be a tight fit.

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Yes I've had a bit of a look at them - they look pretty tired.

Cheers for the advice - it doesn't look like a complicated job, but the access is tight and the easier things look, the quicker they tend to go south!

Just a thought but the actual gear shift cage itself is mounted on rubber bushed mounts to the chassis. (Assuming you don't already know this)
Lateral play in the gear lever itself could be down to the cage mount itself possibly?

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Cheers! Will certainly give it a look! It'll likely be the thing that I haven't got the bits for...   s:) s:)

If you search topics for Bigfoot mounts or Widermuller you might be able to get some of his solid mounts that replace the OEM ones. I don't know if he'll have any in stock as I think he machines them in batches to order. I was very happy with mine.


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[The Arch Bishop]

Excellent - I'll certainly give it a look if the bushes don't do the job.