Help, no handbrake after calliper re-built

Started by ihs61, July 28, 2017, 18:43

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ihs61

Help needed,
I have just rebuilt my rear callipers using a big red kit inc new Pistons, I followed the superb write up by Steve as a guide. To be honest not the easiest of jobs and certainly not to be done if your in a rush !
All now reassembled with new discs and pads, I have a great pedal and great handbrake on the drivers side but only a partial one on the passengers
I rebuilt both callipers the same and wound out the Pistons the same amount prior to assembly.
during the course of a long day I have taken it off again and stripped it down just to be sure, everything was correct and the lever moves the piston. The cables are both free, but still the drivers side locks the wheel but the passenger works but but sufficient to lock the wheel. (I can turn the jacked up wheel)
In total I gave now spent two and a half days on the entire job and I am mist disapointed with my efforts.

I am open to all suggestions inc a litre of petrol and a match !

Regards Ian

Carolyn

#1
Have you:  Taken the tension completely off the handbrake cables, then pumped the pedal at least ten times, then re-tensioned the cables?
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ihs61

#2
Thanks for your suggestion, i am sure I have esp with the drivers side working, but I will disconnect the cable and follow you sequence as I am sure it' can only be something straight forward .

Thanks Ian

ianfcliffen

#3
Just gone through exactly the same problem today. Remove the centre console, remove all tension from the cable (nut next to handbake). Pump the brake pedal like crazy, re-tighten the nut gradually testing the clicks every so often until you get to about 6 to 8. Took me days to find the solution.
Regards
Another Ian

MR2 MK3 2002 Mansfield, UK

ihs61

#4
Thanks Ian, I will have a go in the morning.

Carolyn

#5
Just a thought, though I'm sure you'll have this covered already:

Is the nipple on the back of the pad properly engaged in the piston?  Just that it won't wind out if not.
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ihs61

#6
Yes it is, but excellent point

The Other Stu

#7
Bleed the brakes perhaps? When you say great foot pedal, are you sure it's pulling both sides?
No Longer Here

ihs61

#8
Thanks for all advice, all now sorted
I now have a puncture - doh
Cheers Ian

Krissiesherwood

#9
I have just purchased 2003 roadster and it's got 10 months mot,  had new radiator, and new front brake pads. I took it out Wednesday and smoke started coming out of the front n,s wheel.  I called AA & he took wheel off and said the brakes had seizd up.  He took out the piston cleaned it before putting it back.  He said I needed to get new calliper ASAP.  It was ok driving it home,  but it's worried me as to weather I need to get it done now,  before I drive it again.  The garage said they can free it up, or fit new one.  But the AA man freed it up to enable me to drive it home.  About 10 miles.  I called the guy I purchased it from,  & he said he put new brake pads on the front 6 weeks ago.  I have noticed the handbrake it high and wondered if it is all related after reading this forum.  Any one got any ideas for me please?  All suggestion greatly appreciated. P.S.  Not very mechanically minded.  Willing to learn. Been looking at calippers and they all look the same to me....'used'.
Krissie sherwood

Krissiesherwood

#10
Hi all,  can anyone advise me whether or not to get a new calipper and pads fitted to n.s front.   It seizd up and started smoking. Aargh,  pretty scared.   Didn't quite know where the smoke was coming from at first.  Had the piston taken out and cleaned.  Was advised to get new calipper and pads ASAP.   It drives ok now tho and I'm checking the rim every time for heat,  and so far,  no heat.   But I'm wondering if it something that is urgent to get done,  also would I need to get both front ones done at the same time? As some forums advise.   Thank you for any suggestions to enable me to sort it out.
Krissie sherwood

Carolyn

#11
Yes, best to get both sides done.  Before you invest in calipers, Have a local mechanic 'lubricate the sliders'.  She or he will know what that means.  If they don't, find another mechanic.  Also ask for two new sets of pads.
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ianfcliffen

#12
Quote from: "Krissiesherwood"Hi all,  can anyone advise me whether or not to get a new calipper and pads fitted to n.s front.   It seizd up and started smoking. Aargh,  pretty scared.   Didn't quite know where the smoke was coming from at first.  Had the piston taken out and cleaned.  Was advised to get new calipper and pads ASAP.   It drives ok now though and I'm checking the rim every time for heat,  and so far,  no heat.   But I'm wondering if it something that is urgent to get done,  also would I need to get both front ones done at the same time? As some forums advise.   Thank you for any suggestions to enable me to sort it out.
Hi Krissiesherwood,
I bought reconditioned on flea bay from a vendor called biggred4u early 2016. The pair cost £200 with £60 cash back when I sent them the old ones. Brakes is not something to put off. The job isn't too difficult to do yourself and in my opinion shouldn't be put off. 2 MOT'S later they are still going strong.
I am not a mechanic and I am sure that someone will have some good advice for you shortly on the reason for the smoke.
All the best
Ian

MR2 MK3 2002 Mansfield, UK

Carolyn

#13
Quote from: "ianfcliffen"
Quote from: "Krissiesherwood"Hi all,  can anyone advise me whether or not to get a new calipper and pads fitted to n.s front.   It seizd up and started smoking. Aargh,  pretty scared.   Didn't quite know where the smoke was coming from at first.  Had the piston taken out and cleaned.  Was advised to get new calipper and pads ASAP.   It drives ok now though and I'm checking the rim every time for heat,  and so far,  no heat.   But I'm wondering if it something that is urgent to get done,  also would I need to get both front ones done at the same time? As some forums advise.   Thank you for any suggestions to enable me to sort it out.
Hi Krissiesherwood,
I bought reconditioned on flea bay from a vendor called biggred4u early 2016. The pair cost £200 with £60 cash back when I sent them the old ones. Brakes is not something to put off. The job isn't too difficult to do yourself and in my opinion shouldn't be put off. 2 MOT'S later they are still going strong.
I am not a mechanic and I am sure that someone will have some good advice for you shortly on the reason for the smoke.
All the best
Ian

MR2 MK3 2002 Mansfield, UK

I am a mechanic.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
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Ardent

#14
Kwood

Hello and welcome.
As per Carolyn, you could also tell them it wants to be CeraTec (spelling?) greasse that is used. If they look blank, walk away.

Ardent

#15
Quote from: "Carolyn"I am a mechanic.
Mild understatement of the day.   s:) :) s:)

Krissiesherwood

#16
Excellent,  thanks for that.   The pads were replaced 2months ago,  so the seller told me,  and then verified by the AA man who came to my rescue.  He said I need new calipper and something else,  which I can't remember,  and also advised new pads,  even though he said he can see they have been replaced.   I've seen  calippers on flea bay and they look just as dirty as the ones already on.  But I'm not sure how it came to get stuck and start smoking in the first place.  The brake locked on and metal got red hot,  Oooh nasty.   Didn't know where it was coming from at first,  but as soon as I stopped the car, it was obvious something was not right in the wheel.  Is it important to do both front calippers,  even though they seems ok?
Krissie sherwood

ianfcliffen

Quote from: "Carolyn"
Quote from: "ianfcliffen"
Quote from: "Krissiesherwood"Hi all,  can anyone advise me whether or not to get a new calipper and pads fitted to n.s front.   It seizd up and started smoking. Aargh,  pretty scared.   Didn't quite know where the smoke was coming from at first.  Had the piston taken out and cleaned.  Was advised to get new calipper and pads ASAP.   It drives ok now though and I'm checking the rim every time for heat,  and so far,  no heat.   But I'm wondering if it something that is urgent to get done,  also would I need to get both front ones done at the same time? As some forums advise.   Thank you for any suggestions to enable me to sort it out.
Hi Krissiesherwood,
I bought reconditioned on flea bay from a vendor called biggred4u early 2016. The pair cost £200 with £60 cash back when I sent them the old ones. Brakes is not something to put off. The job isn't too difficult to do yourself and in my opinion shouldn't be put off. 2 MOT'S later they are still going strong.
I am not a mechanic and I am sure that someone will have some good advice for you shortly on the reason for the smoke.
All the best
Ian

MR2 MK3 2002 Mansfield, UK

I am a mechanic.
No offence intended. I started my post, got called away and obviously finished it after your post.

MR2 MK3 2002 Mansfield, UK

Carolyn

#18
If one has seized, it's an indication of lack of maintenance, so best to get both done.  Once a set of pads has been fried, they are done for.  More often than not a good lubrication job will sort calipers out.  I'm not about to advise someone with very little mechanical experience to work on brakes.  The AA man might be correct, but usually calipers can be rescued.  I could go into a long explanation about how these calipers work, but I'm trying to advise the best way forward.  The fact that the caliper appears to be behaving itself now, tells me that a good basic service should suffice.
If, after that, it misbehaves again, then rebuilt calipers will be in order.
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Ardent

#19
As a set of pads looks to be on the shopping list.
Pagid work very well. Euro car parts £35. (shop around)
These are light cars and if running stock power stock pads will stop you just fine.

The Other Stu

#20
Quote from: "Carolyn"I'm not about to advise someone with very little mechanical experience to work on brakes.
Oh, you could have warned me before I replaced all 4 pads and discs, handbrake cables and rear calipers (as well as rebuilding the old ones) and replacing the brake fluid  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
No Longer Here

Krissiesherwood

#21
Thank everyone who has commented here,  it defiantly  means I'm going to go to mechanic 'well armed' with lots of knowledge and hopefully won't get the wool pulled over my "mince pies". Never a good look.
I'm going to try ro get a new set of pads,  tub of good recommend grease,  just incase they don't have the CetaTec!!!
Maybe try to find a guy who will let me watch.   Always wanting to learn how to maintain the car.  Thumbs up.
Krissie sherwood

Carolyn

#22
All sounds very good.  'Ceratec' is made by 'Mintex' and it comes in a tube (you on't need much).  Your local parts store, or Ebay...

Watching is a very good idea.
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Krissiesherwood

#23
Oops,  disaster....I looked at the handbrake today,  partially removed the casing to see underneath,  the handbrake is very high,  I removed the d.s rear wheel to look at the condition of the brake discs and pads,  the disc was grubby, so I wire brushed it and just had a good around,  didn't touch anything else..  It seemed a bit stiff when jacked up so I thought it was brake disc rubbing,  so I thought it should be OK after little clean up.  Didn't put anything else on,  just put it all back together.  Took for spin and smelt rubber,  which I think was just the pads.  Then engine management light came on.  Checked oil and water,  all ok,  although oil was bit low,  so topped it up.  Engine light still on.  I'm going to take it to garage to sort it out,  but wondered if anyone has tried those "self diagnostic " gadgets yet,  and are they coded?   keeping my fingers crossed it isn't anything too expensive.
Krissie sherwood

The Other Stu

#24
OK, they're called an OBD reader. We all have them (I think?) It's below our name!
They're around a fiver if you have an Android phone, £20 for a standalone one.

It simply gives you a code - you look it up on here and you'll find a post that tells you the problem. General are P0171 and so on - it's an O2 sensor.

It's a really simple job which will cost you around £55 if you do it yourself or £150+ if you go to Toyota. Personally, I've learned not to be tempted to use cheap unbranded sensors - you could fall into Emission problems or it may not last. Proper Denso ones should be good for a few years.
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