Sump drilling...

[woodypk]

Is there any one best way for fitting a fitting for oil return to the sump? According to different sources I've seen different ways to do this - drill and sandwich with washers, drill and tap and even weld. Thoughts on the most reliable way to do this?

One way I've seen come up a few times is to drill the sump 12mm and fit a brass hose adaptor with a nut on the inside and copper washers either side. Is this the favoured way of doing this? If so, does anyone have the specs of he hose adaptor and nut/washers I'd need to do this.

It goes without saying (but i'll say it anyway) the sump always needs to be removed before doing this right due to swarf yada yada... And then there is a gasket paste to refit the sump. The search feature gave me the following info: RTV - I know this is a sort of silicone gasket material but that's as far as my knowledge of that goes.

I hope you guys could shed some light on this for me.

Cheers guys!

[Carolyn]

Dirko Elhring Grey.  Available on your favourite auction website.  Silicone is best avoided, honest.  
Can't help on the sump attachment as I've never done it.  As I've got the equipment, I'd weld a nut on.

[shnazzle]

Don't put the return too low on the sump. As high as is feasible to allow for space to put a spanner in to tighten the connector

[keljon]

the first one i did without welding leaked

[woodypk]

What is the process for welding. This isn't an issue for me if welding turns out the be the best way, I'll take it to the welders at work.

What parts will I need? Also, how thick is the sump its self? I don't imagine it to be able to be drilled and tapped like some sumps can be.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Its pressed steel so drilling and tapping is out

I used a sandwich type fitting
A bit like this one:-

 m http://www.ebay.com/itm/291541208412 m

[Carolyn]

You can go Gary's way, just make sure you're on flat a surface. Those doughty washers work well.  Or you could weld in a BSP (say 3/8") fitting that you can attach to.  Pick your spot, drill hole, get welded.

[m1tch]

Anyone able to post up a photo of the drain location - I will be fitting a drain to mine at some point, guessing it should be at the top of the oil fill level and preferably just next to the oil pick up?

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Here you go
[attachment=0:2b825nd4] ia0 Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 17.56.20.png ia0 [/attachment:2b825nd4]

Blatantly stolen from the Power Enterprise turbo installation guide

[1979scotte]

If oil return is too low this can lead to oil backing up the return.
Not good. Makes you think your turbo is FUBAR.

[woodypk]

Thanks guys.

So I need:
-a new oil pan (optional)
-Fitting to be welded in
-Hole drilled near the top as per picture above
-Dirko Elhring grey sealant
-Oil return line - any benefit in this being braided or is that just for aesthetics?
-Clamp for oil pipe
-A small helping of luck that it doesn't leak...

[Carolyn]

Braided is good.  Last thing you want to spring a leak.  Make sure the hose is suitable for oil.  It won't leak. Honest.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Personally I would (and did) go with a new oil pan... The Oil pan flange is easily damaged/Bent when removing it.
They can be found cheaply on the likes of ebay etc (I paid about £30 for mine)

[woodypk]

Just ordered a new oil pan and the grey sealant. Now need to source a hose so I can then decide on the fittings I'm going to use and then I'll get it all welded in and refitted.
What size hose/fitting should I be looking at using at a minimum? Is 3/8th good or should I make it as big (within reason) as I can get away with hose wise? I want to make sure I a sufficient size bore on the pipework to allow proper flow.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Mine is 19mm ID Braided Hose

[Carolyn]

Couple of points.  The hose must not be smaller than the oil outlet from your turbo.  External (stainless) braiding is not required.  Internal braiding is.

[woodypk]

Thanks guys once again, for all the advice. Greatly appreciated.