Air intake

michaelb · April 7, 2018, 22:01

From what I'm reading, there seems to be little point in installing a cone Air filter as the standard box with sports filter will do just as good a job, if not better? Should I extend the air intake to one of the side vents though?

shnazzle · April 7, 2018, 22:09

Nope. Leave as is. The noise from a cone is wicked though

michaelb · April 7, 2018, 22:11

I do like a nice note from an engine though lol if I was to install a cone, would the k&N one be a good choice? Is it necessary to install the pipe for the cone?

michaelb · April 7, 2018, 22:21

What about the BMC carbon filter?

dan944 · April 7, 2018, 22:39

I have a BMC CDA that I was going to put up for sale. It JUST fits behind the battery. It's a really good filter. IATs of just a few degrees above ambient temperature. Have though about price yet but have recently washed it pretty thoroughly. Will just need oiling.

shnazzle · April 7, 2018, 23:05

If you go cone, re-use the stock maf adapter. Buy a 2nd hand airbox and cut out the MAF housing. That way the disturbance to the stock calibration is minimal.

I mean, its picking hairs, but performance decrease is more likely than increase. By about 2hp or so

A burger for dinner will do the same

michaelb · April 7, 2018, 23:10

If you buy the k&N induction kit, the cone has a section for the maf to screw into, but with a cone, do you need to still put a hose in to bring cold air to the cone?

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 13:27

Anyone? Lol if you don't bring a hose from the side vent to the cone, surely it would be warm air from the engine that's being sucked in which would reduce power?

Call the midlife! · April 8, 2018, 13:32

Quote from: michaelb on April 8, 2018, 13:27
Anyone? Lol if you don't bring a hose from the side vent to the cone, surely it would be warm air from the engine that's being sucked in which would reduce power?

Folk tend to site the cone in front of the battery where it gets cold air from the side vent anyway.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 14:20

So you remove the whole rubber hose bit that comes out of the engine and turns to face the rear?

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 14:33

Or could you not use the existing air intake that goes into the stock box and extend it slightly to meet the new cone?

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 14:54

Or if you install a cone Air filter should the ecu really be reprogrammed as the car doesn't understand why there is more air flow and will actually run worse? Lol

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 15:02

If you have a little search there's quite a few in depth topics on this.

IMO, the Generally consensus is using an after market filter of good quality, using the OEM MAF adapter cut from a standard air box and placing it all behind the battery as it gets a better cooed of cold air. If you remove the passenger side vent you'll see that there's a pipe that leads to behind the battery. This is where the standard setup takes its feed from. Effectively you're using the same air supply with a more free flowing filter.

From what I gather you'll, at best, get the same power, maybe drop a pony or two, but with fractionally better throttle response and a lovely tone to the engine, which, IMHO, is worth it by itself.

If you REALLY wanted to be anal....you should remap, as you correctly stated, the ECU will be a little off.
But then you'll need a piggy back ecu or a standalone.

For the sake of 3-5hp??
Up to you I guess.

No doubt more knowledgable people will correct some of what I said but that's gotta be close.

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 15:14

Cheers mate that is helpful! I noticed that one of the k&N cone filters has a place to put the maf housing in if you unscrew it from the stock box. Would I then just attach the new cone pretty much directly to the engine and can do away with the large rubber hose that currently comes out and turns towards the rear? Have you a picture of yours?

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 15:17

Sorry the k&N has a place to put the maf sensor, not housing!

shnazzle · April 8, 2018, 15:20

Dan was spot on

Basically the long/short of it is that if you're going to do it, do it for the noise.
Also, we are but people/men; if it sounds faster, it IS faster

MAF calibration is a pain in the hoopiola. But if MAF signal is wrong...everything else is wrong. Garbage in, garbage out.

But..nothing life-threatening. Barely noticeable at best

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 15:24

Anyone any pics of theirs so I can see?

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 15:25

You can just about see it in here. Or what I think your original plan was.

I can't 100% say that these were better or worse than standard. I felt behind the battery sounded great and felt lovely to drive.

I used same diameter pipe and an aluminium MAF adapter from monkey wrench racing.

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 15:31

But just like shnazzle said, it's mainly about noise as we know that it's not the intake that's restricting these engines.

I put mine behind the battery, so have many others. Does it give performance gains? Probably not. Is it the best bang for buck mod? Nope. Does it sound awesome? Definitely.

Depends on your priorities. What's your goal for the car?

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 15:39

They are 2 different positions for the air filter right? They don't look the same at all or am I looking at them wrong? Lol

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 15:42

Correct. On the first it is hidden behind the battery, on the second it's in the standard position.

I am bias towards the BMC CDA. I think it's the mutts. I've had it for nearly 5 years or so and was gutted when I couldn't fit mine with my turbo build.
To me, the enclosed filter is important. It really helps avoid heat soak.
The fact the CDA is carbon fine just helps even more.

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 15:44

But because it's enclosed in carbon fibre does that mean it doesn't get quite as good a noise as the open cone?

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 15:49

I think it still sounds pretty mega. Doesn't enclose the noise.

What's your goals for the car by the way? Have you considered gear shift/cage bushes? Only a few quid and huge difference. Granted it doesn't make noise but I think best bang for buck mod I've done.

michaelb · April 8, 2018, 16:05

I haven't really decided what to do yet, I want more power but need to decide on turbo or conversion! I was looking at all sorts of stuff and I may take a while to decide lol in the meantime, I thought a few less expensive mods might be nice, such as air filter. I hadn't considered gear shift or anything yet. I've spent quite a bit over the last few months on the looks, bodykit, style bar, new wheels, interior is re-trimmed in brushed aluminium, so now I want to start on the engine etc. I think I'm also going to get new discs, pads, calipers and maybe new lowering springs too!

dan944 · April 8, 2018, 16:28

Springs/coil overs is a great option I've got tte springs but want coil overs ultimately.
If you are planning on conversion/ turbo build then putting a new filter set up. Even if it is only £50 of parts. Could be completely wasted.
I've just (almost) completed a turbo build. There's a thread on here for diy turbo build parts sourcing.
I'm not going to start that discussion as it's probably for another thread and I really think you need a good long session of reading up on both. 2zz with a turbo further down the line could be the ultimate option.
Bracing is well worth it! Braided hoses are good IMO.