Removing the rust from the underside

[MR TWO]

I you have or can get an air compressor, use a soda blaster. No harm to rubber etc. Cleans off all the surface rust and the nooks and crannies. Will need a face mask. Lots of dust involved that just washes away when it rains

That doesn't sound like a bad idea!... Maybe (depending on how much the compresor is to rent) there will be two more solutions to try.  Thanks!

I just cleaned the coffee cup I used for the Loctite -hot water and a dish cloth dissloved that stuff easily.

[The Arch Bishop]

I'd really recommend looking at the Bilthamber range, notably the Hydrate products. Really good rust conversion, or their Deox products for removal. Brilliant stuff!

[wotugonado]

That's the one deox-c ,I've been trying to think of the product name all day. Good shout.

[moredun]

Just started cleaning the underside of my car as well.

I tried Hydrate 80 Rust Killer as a rust converter. Used wirebrush attachment to drill and flat head screwdriver to remover the surface first.

Been on now for 48 hours

[MR TWO]

Just started cleaning the underside of my car as well.

I tried Hydrate 80 Rust Killer as a rust converter. Used wirebrush attachment to drill and flat head screwdriver to remover the surface first.

Been on now for 48 hours

Hi,

Have you got a pic of the rust after the Hydrate 80 has been on for 48hrs - I am hoping that these pics are the before treatment?

[moredun]

the pics are after the treatment.

Radiator mounting bracket was done while changing the radiator, bolts where untouched. Also treated around the bonnet stop etc,
Paint was left undamaged, but any rust turned blackish. Leaves a very hard surface and ready for primer or painting.

The crossmember was as bad as the rust you see elsewhere, but has turned mostly black where I applied the treament.
As a rust converter, this works well, but the finish you get depends on how much rust you remove fist.

After I fix a PAS oil leak and de-grease the drivers side, I intend to treat the rest of the underside. Then I will use a zinc primer and spray everything with underseal.

[MR TWO]

the pics are after the treatment.

Radiator mounting bracket was done while changing the radiator, bolts where untouched. Also treated around the bonnet stop etc,
Paint was left undamaged, but any rust turned blackish. Leaves a very hard surface and ready for primer or painting.

The crossmember was as bad as the rust you see elsewhere, but has turned mostly black where I applied the treament.
As a rust converter, this works well, but the finish you get depends on how much rust you remove fist.

After I fix a PAS oil leak and de-grease the drivers side, I intend to treat the rest of the underside. Then I will use a zinc primer and spray everything with underseal.

OK I'm kinda confused!
Pic 1 is the bottle of Hamber
Pic 2 shows a black metal bracket.
Pic 3 shows a black bar and lots of rusty metal either side.

Are you saying that in Pic 1, the black bracket used to be rusty?
In pic 2 was the black bar rusty like the metal either side before treatment?

Its very hard (for me!) to get an idea of what is treated and what is untreated as theres no before pics to make a comparison.

Have you scraped or scratched the black to see if its still rusty underneath? The Loctite and Fertan appeared to have cured the rust on my car - until I looked underneath and found it was more like a painted cover!

Do you think that if I were to put this on my rusty parts that they would lose the rust colouring and in fact be some kind of metal?  Like rust without the oxidation?

Sorry to be a pain!

JEZ

[The Arch Bishop]

The rust will go very hard and black. If you're scraping away to find underneath, then you haven't prepared it properly. You get the worst off with deox C or Gel or a wire brush then paint Hydrate over the top. It can just be left with that if you're i a hurry, but ideally a course of zinc primer, underseal (if it's under the car) and then a top coat if required is the best method.

I've used it a fair amount in my thread - https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63117.0

[MR TWO]

Bilt Hamber don't have any stoclists with 20 miles of my postcode - I rang them to check. Nevermind the well known auction site can get me some by Wednesday as opposed to Amazon who would do the same but for an addition £20 (outrageous).

I'm quite excited at the prospect of buying a rust remover / cure / remedy that actually works and is not just some type of snake oil.

Speaking of snake oil, I called Halfords customer service and told them their rust remover doesn't remove rust.  They called the store on my behalf and said that I should go back and speak with the manager.  I'll let you know how that works out.

I also contacted Fertan via ebay for a refund  and Loctite too.

[Call the midlife!]

Bilt Hamber don't have any stoclists with 20 miles of my postcode - I rang them to check. Nevermind the well known auction site can get me some by Wednesday as opposed to Amazon who would do the same but for an addition £20 (outrageous).

I'm quite excited at the prospect of buying a rust remover / cure / remedy that actually works and is not just some type of snake oil.

Speaking of snake oil, I called Halfords customer service and told them their rust remover doesn't remove rust.  They called the store on my behalf and said that I should go back and speak with the manager.  I'll let you know how that works out.

Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?


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[MR TWO]

Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?


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I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it.  I really must look at their site.  In the meantime ebay have it en route.  Thanks though!

[Call the midlife!]

Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?


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I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it.  I really must look at their site.  In the meantime ebay have it en route.  Thanks though!

No worries, I only know because I'm on the email list from previous purchases.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=bilt%20hamber


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[MR TWO]

Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it.  I really must look at their site.  In the meantime ebay have it en route.  Thanks though!

No worries, I only know because I'm on the email list from previous purchases.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=bilt%20hamber


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Guess what, looking at my paypal reciept, the supplier is Opie.  So our affiliate got the business afterall.  Thats good.

[MR TWO]

Credit where credit is due Halfords gave a full refund with apologies and a bottle of car polish!  Thats good customer service.

[MR TWO]

Loctite sent me an email

"From the photographs supplied indication are that the issues experienced may be attributable to the severity of the corrosion which is likely to be beyond capability of any rust treatment product."

Along with a full refund.  So thats OK.

Lets see if Bilt Hamber have the capability to go beyond where any rust remover has gone before!

[Call the midlife!]

Maybe they should change the product description to "minor oxidisation remover" to avoid ambiguity?


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[MR TWO]

Maybe they should change the product description to "minor oxidisation remover" to avoid ambiguity?


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I agree a name change is certainly required. Perhaps "Pants down expensive undercoat -10pence a millilitre- with vague possibility of some (albeit not much) rust conversion".  Though tbf that doesn't have much of a ring to it...

[MR TWO]

Will this be Mana from Heaven or am I about to spend another day practising to be a pitlane wheel changer?

24 hour delivery at no extra cost.  Excellent start.

Anyone wondered that Toyota might use orange steel to make the "underside bits"?

All to be revealed!

[MR TWO]

Well its on the two corners that have seen off the other products.  This stuff has the texture of soft lard which for younger people is similar to I can' believe it not butter than has been out of the fridge for some time.

The instructions suggest keeping it out of the sun so I've put the wheels back in place the give shade.  The transformation from orange to silver is estimated to require  one to six hours. I'm hopeful!

Sometimes with car repairs, when its not going exactly (or at all) to plan, I get some doubts in my mind about my skill levels. I question whether the job has become FUBARed merely due to me instead of some cosmic conspiracy to thwart what is right and fair.  Of course this doesn't last long as its naturally someone/ something elses fault.  Still this time I know its not me - any idiot can slaver on gloop and if the marmalade colour is still there afterwards its down to the product!

[wotugonado]

Depending how bad the amount of rust is, someone recommended leaving for 24 hrs but slapping the stuff on and wrapping cling film over it to stop it drying out, every now and again giving it a massage through the cling film to stop it setting.

[MR TWO]

Yes I remember reading that advice too - from Frogger or Arch Bishop I think. I expect to have to give it a second dose (although I would be so pleased if I didn't need to to).  The second  and and final (?) would go on overnight and thats when I will wrap it up.

Three hours or so to go until I get my first look. Early confidence (for no real reason)is beginning to wane...

[Bossworld]

Well its on the two corners that have seen off the other products.  This stuff has the texture of soft lard which for younger people is similar to I can' believe it not butter than has been out of the fridge for some time.

The instructions suggest keeping it out of the sun so I've put the wheels back in place the give shade.  The transformation from orange to silver is estimated to require  one to six hours. I'm hopeful!

Sometimes with car repairs, when its not going exactly (or at all) to plan, I get some doubts in my mind about my skill levels. I question whether the job has become FUBARed merely due to me instead of some cosmic conspiracy to thwart what is right and fair.  Of course this doesn't last long as its naturally someone/ something elses fault.  Still this time I know its not me - any idiot can slaver on gloop and if the marmalade colour is still there afterwards its down to the product!

Forgive me asking, what condition is that last inch of hard brake line in?  Has it got the gloop or copperslip on?

[MR TWO]

Hi Bossworld,

Ask anything you like and make any suggestions you think are good too.

Do you mean this bit?


Solid condition, will be better with a coat of paint.

[MR TWO]

Well I just had a look at both front and back after 6 hours. 


The surface of all the rusty metal is now coated with a hard very dark brown/ black layer.  I used a file on it and broke through to mostly shiney steel.I've just whacked another lot on the worst affected areas and will give it a drill powered wire brushing tomorrow morning. Maybe it doesn't need it, but just to be on the safe side.

I see aerosols of zinc primer & Hammerite paint in my future. Finally.

This product cost £17.89 delivered for 1 Kg which will be enough (with a little spare methinks) to complete the whole job.

Whistling a happy tune!

[Bossworld]

Hi Bossworld,

Ask anything you like and make any suggestions you think are good too.

Do you mean this bit?


Solid condition, will be better with a coat of paint.

Yep that bit about an inch or so long where it meets the union after the plastic coating ends. I couldn't work out if it looked a bit bumpy or not from the pic. I've just renewed both of my fronts because of pitting on the pipe, had originally coated it with hammerite after failing an MOT but had a nagging doubt in my mind.

Cut into the pipe afterwards and it was still solid but it's one area that mot testers love to be picky about.