Brakes glorious brakes

[Call the midlife!]

Front all sorted.
Had a few issues with the nearside brake line nut. Nothing a mole grip couldn't fix.
But that took ages. And then we experienced what everybody says about the kink in the line at the caliper end. We're not entirely happy but as long as the line slides through the clip it should be fine.

Didn't need much cleaning. Everything slid in perfectly.
Although the brake discs were absolutely welded to the hub.
This is how a 1hr job turns into 4.

Rears tomorrow, which should be easier as it's just been off. And then full fluid replacement.

Saucy...


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[Topdownman]

The rebuffer strikes again.

Looks like the pond lining came in handy.

Looking forward to hearing how they feel.

[jvanzyl]

Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...

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[delhusband]

This is how a 1hr job turns into 4.

Got noises now from nsf, may have to try doing this job for first time soonish - judging by this, 4hours for you guys might end up being 4 hours per corner for me... Any tips welcome

[Gaz mr-s]

Do they supply bedding-in instructions with them?   Interested to get your opinion of them.

[HereComesTheWife]

Do they supply bedding-in instructions with them?   Interested to get your opinion of them.

Not really, there was just a leaflet saying 'go steady for a couple of days' or words to that effect. I'll you know my thoughts, should get them finished tomorrow

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[1979scotte]

Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...

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Don't I have all that in the MR2 support polo.
I could have some free time this weekend I am only working Saturday I think.

[jvanzyl]

Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...

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Don't I have all that in the MR2 support polo.
I could have some free time this weekend I am only working Saturday I think.

Thanks man- turns out the car is only 3 years old so no need for the grease... I bought another generic set of brake piston tools a while ago so I used those... My wife is working the whole weekend so I'm only able to do car work in the evenings.. :-/

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[shnazzle]

Failed attempt day 2 on account of it absolutely pishing it down.

One corner sorted but brake line bolt wasn't playing ball. At all. So, no braided lines on the rear.
Got the disc on the other corner but then the heavens absolutely opened as if to say "oh, you want to continue in the rain do you? Have some of THIS!"

Stupid country.

Any tips on rounded brake line nuts? I've already resorted to big mole grips. No can do.

[Carolyn]

I would remove the offending hard line, make up a new one with new fittings and....

I have the flaring kit, of course, and brake line.

You could probably get one made up locally.

[Joesson]

As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a  good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.

[Joesson]

PS, Carolyn is very probably righter than I am!

[shnazzle]

As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a  good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.

No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it  loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.

I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go

[Call the midlife!]

As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a  good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.

No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it  loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.

I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go

Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...


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[shnazzle]

As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a  good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.

No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it  loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.

I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go

Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...


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Nah just going to leave that one in your head

[HereComesTheWife]

As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a  good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.

No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it  loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.

I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go

Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...


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He'll do what?? [emoji33][emoji33]

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[shnazzle]

Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.

1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....

2) spigot rings can suddenly not fit on the hub anymore. Yeah... No clue. Forced it back on. Mystery

3) when bleeding brakes, size of the tube matters. For some reason I binned my bleeding tube so I used the coolant bleeding tube which is bigger. All good but the problem is, the fluid doesn't build in the tube. So you can't inspect for bubbles easily. Who knew! Switched to a thinner tube and all was good

Yellow stuff: much nicer feel to the braking than the mtecs,pagids or anything else I've tried.
very progressive. Less "bitey". But definitely make the car stop quick!
bedding in at the minute so let's see what it's like after a few drives

[lamcote]

Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.

1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....

That's a very good idea. That bracket seems to have a second connection/pin securing it to the caliper, as well as the bolt. Does that need to be removed or does the bracket slide off that?

Interesting about the feel from the pads too, I'm tempted.

Cheers

[shnazzle]

Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.

1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....

That's a very good idea. That bracket seems to have a second connection/pin securing it to the caliper, as well as the bolt. Does that need to be removed or does the bracket slide off that?

Interesting about the feel from the pads too, I'm tempted.

Cheers

Nope just the 14mm bolt and plenty of room presents itself. It does take some effort to get it back mind. But still a lot less as effort.

[shnazzle]

First proper run on the yellowstuff today.
They're about 30-40% better than the mtec I would say.
You definitely pay more but you also get more, approximately 1:1 with what you pay over and above the mtec.

Brake dust... SO much brake dust.
So much.... If you like  clean alloys, stay away.

A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.
I didn't wait 1k so I stripped it all, re-lubed and re-fitted. Made no difference. But, it's definitely less than it was.

All in all, I'm jealous of Helen's brakes now. Took mine out yesterday and my fresh mtecs and braided lines felt rather mediocre. So, add that to my list of things to save up for.

[1979scotte]

I always liked my yellow stuff.
Agree about the dust and the squealing.
Do wonder if they don't help the MR2 handbrake issues.

[tomaky]

Just checking Pat, you are using a flare spanner?
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/teng-641011-flare-nut-wrench-10-x-11mm.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eyExN6M3QIVxJTVCh3JkgEmEAQYBSABEgLb1PD_BwE

[shnazzle]

Just checking Pat, you are using a flare spanner?
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/teng-641011-flare-nut-wrench-10-x-11mm.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eyExN6M3QIVxJTVCh3JkgEmEAQYBSABEgLb1PD_BwE

No, I tried to find one but couldn't. I should have ordered one online.
having said that, I used one when we did mine and the mole grips came out there as well.

[tomaky]

You will be surprised how effortless it is with one ha. id nearly rounded it with a open end. got the spanner and walah.

[james_ly]

A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.

Have you bedded them in? I find with all track pads I've used, you need to give them a hard time regularly.