"stutter" when lift kicks in

Started by bigjeff5591, June 25, 2018, 08:40

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bigjeff5591

As subject,  stutters noticably the vvti kicks in - any thoughts ? - car burns oil and I will be taking the engine out after the summer to sort (decided to take the advice on here and bite the bullet !) if its a big job will live with it until rebuild time!

shnazzle

Vvti doesn't "kick in", it's variably active all the time depending on loads.

I suspect it's more load/rpm related.

We all know it's coming..... MAF clean done? :)
...neutiquam erro.

bigjeff5591

Thanks (showing my ignorance again!) - just serviced, MAF clean, plugs, filters etc - it hesitates  at 35,00 - 4000 RPM after that all good.

shnazzle

Quote from: bigjeff5591 on June 25, 2018, 19:41
Thanks (showing my ignorance again!) - just serviced, MAF clean, plugs, filters etc - it hesitates  at 35,00 - 4000 RPM after that all good.
Haha! Don't worry I think every one of us has thought that vvti is like lift.

Not saying it's not vvti mind. If your oil control valve for vvti isn't working it could cause a stutter as that is the max-load max-torque range of the mr2.

I was going to ask about air filter, but you said you've replaced it.

...neutiquam erro.

bigjeff5591

I will give the MAF another squirt, can I check the oil control valve ?

Carolyn

#5
Yes, but it's a bit fiddly.  It's held into the head by 1 M6 screw (10 mm head).  I'll take a pic to show you.....

Once it's out, you can also get at the OCV filter - which will cause problems if it's blocked up.

Here's a couple of pics.  The valve is on the head at the right towards the cabin. 

Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

bigjeff5591

Thanks for the photos, never having seen one before any tips to check it's OK - can the filter be removed / cleaned or is a replacement required - as mentioned burns oil if that makes a diference.

Carolyn

Yes the 14 mm 'bolt' is just a cap and the filter just pulls out.  It is a simple mesh tube and is designed to be cleaned.  If the engine is mucky inside (as oil-burners often are) then it can get clogged.

I'll try to get a better pic tomorrow.

I've done this job myself and it takes patience (to say the least).

Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

bigjeff5591

Cheers, all good practice before engine out time - your fault Carolyn, convinced me it will be the "easiest option" !

Carolyn

Speaking of 'my fault'.

I just had a good look at my spare engine (I know, I'm showing off..) to remind me of how I got at the filter.

It involved removing the breather cannister (easy) then the top engine mount, removing the top bolt that retains the alternator and loosening the alternator bottom bolt, and then removing the big cast bracket that bolts to the front of the timing cover.

I tried to take a pic of the bolt that retains the filter - almost impossible even with the engine out of the car!

I'd leave it until you pull the engine, I think....

Here's a couple more pics, one showing the alternator swung away and one where you can just see part of the bolt head underneath the dip-stick tube.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

bigjeff5591

Thats great thanks, will live with the stutter- either going slow to keep SWMBO happy, or past it anyway, and will add to the "engine out to do list"

bigjeff5591

Cleaned tha MAF again, and replaced the O ring (thanks Carolyn) - now as smooth as a smooth thing !

shnazzle

...neutiquam erro.

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