Odd one! flat spot/restrictor when accelerating hard round a left hand turn.

[tommytoneism]

flat spot/rev limiter when accelerating hard round a left hand turn.

Any one ?  Fuel pump?

Thanks in advance.

Lance

[jonbill]

Soggy engine mounts and a split in inlet hose opens up on left handers?

[tommytoneism]

Wow..

I love this forum, where else can you get that kind of insight!

Thanks, I have a look tomorrow.

L

[tommytoneism]

So I'm still confused as to where this leak/split could be..it seems to have got worse..started rough idling..pops..
power loss usually around 4.5k but can be higher intermittent ..also now started to hear a bit of a low end knocking when warm. Although I hear that more in the cab than in the engine bay?

I'm thinking of changing all the pipes, does anyone one have a break down of all the sizes? and maybe the main culprits?  Also what about the carbon canister, or PCV..

OK thanks for the help in advance,

Lance

[jonbill]

I was suggesting (and still think) there might be a split or leak in the air inlet ducting somewhere after the MAF.
So I'd suggest perhaps taking it all off between the throttle body and the airbox and inspect.
If not there then the inlet manifold which is much harder to inspect but I guess you could check the nuts and bolts securing it aren't lose.

As for the knock, wouldn't be an air leak. Can you identify where it's coming from?

[Carolyn]

There is a plastic baffle in the inlet manifold, which has been known to come adrift.  It can cause the symptoms you describe.  If it's floating around in there, the effects will be inconsistent and it would rattle.

This is not common but it does happen and you can find examples on the web.

I'd follow Jonbill's advice first.

EDIT:  A loose lump of plastic in the inlet manifold would also explain why you hear the rattle more from in the cab. (Considering that the manifold is very close to the firewall.)

[shnazzle]

You mentioned pops. This still indicates a bit lean running (I.e unmetered air entering the system). So that would be post-MAF.

Hopefully Jon's advice flushes it out

[tommytoneism]

Thanks everyone, I'll have a look Sunday and get back. I have a short home made intake, 45* silicone and the maf housing from the oem with a Ramair filter behind the battery. So now I'm thinking manifold unless I've not put it back on properly..

Also when I changed the alternator a couple of months ago I discovered that the long bolt was missing?? As I'd been driving around a while with just the short one holding in the alternator before I'd changed it, I thought it would be OK until I sourced one, but I'm having difficulty finding one..Anyone know where I can get one?

Thanks.

Lance

[Carolyn]

Thanks everyone, I'll have a look Sunday and get back. I have a short home made intake, 45* silicone and the maf housing from the oem with a Ramair filter behind the battery. So now I'm thinking manifold unless I've not put it back on properly..

Also when I changed the alternator a couple of months ago I discovered that the long bolt was missing?? As I'd been driving around a while with just the short one holding in the alternator before I'd changed it, I thought it would be OK until I sourced one, but I'm having difficulty finding one..Anyone know where I can get one?

Thanks.

Lance

Rutland MR2 or D. Sloan,

[shnazzle]

Your fuel trims, maf values and vacuum can help you figure out where the leak is. If you have Torque Pro (heavily recommended bit of kit for the money).
Graphs for the win.

Could be coil pack issues. You can check for misfires in Torque Pro as well.

Could be a fuel pump/injectors.

Basically, there's a number of possibilities. Some metrics will help flush it out. Saving that, trial and error.

Your intake is suspect being DIY. Incorrect MAF readings can easily cause these symptoms.

[Carolyn]

Your fuel trims, maf values and vacuum can help you figure out where the leak is. If you have Torque Pro (heavily recommended bit of kit for the money).
Graphs for the win.

Could be coil pack issues. You can check for misfires in Torque Pro as well.

Could be a fuel pump/injectors.

Basically, there's a number of possibilities. Some metrics will help flush it out. Saving that, trial and error.

Your intake is suspect being DIY. Incorrect MAF readings can easily cause these symptoms.

Yes but none of the above explains why the problem is sensitive to lateral G and why there's a rattle.  By all means do a diagnostic  but......

[tommytoneism]

So I took all the intake of today and made sure it has no leaks, also cleaned the MAF. Went for a blast with the roof down and it still feels starved at 4.5k-5.5k in 1st and 2nd..3rd is fine. Sometimes left handers sometimes straight ahead. Then in the last few miles to a sharp left hander floored it and it was OK??

Also the rattle wasn't there when I pulled up but started as I lifted the roof??  Only on idle and goes away when revved.

Is the alternator bolt missing anything to do with this?

If it worse case scenario and it's the baffle in the manifold, is it an engine out job?

Thanks again.

Lance

[Carolyn]

I'd get  bolt and put it in.   Not the most likely culprit, but the alternator does earth though the engine???  May not cure the issue, but it should be done.

you could lash up something to use as a stethoscope and listen to the inlet manifold when it#s rattling.  Or buy a stethoscope (very handy and cheap!) and have a good listen around.

The inlet manifold can be changed with the engine in.  It's a pita (I've done it) but it can be done.

With luck, your ECU has relearned after the MAF clean and you've cured it!!

[tommytoneism]

Thanks Carolyn, you're a star. It'll be next Sunday now before I get a look.

Thanks again,

Lance

[tommytoneism]

The saga continues!!   So it has been driveable even with this problem, as I've needed to go out a couple of times this week.
Yesterday however just as I was driving into the village with some hard acceleration, it really started to play up and kept stalling. I managed to park it up, just!!. I came to it this morning to move it round the back so I could work on it and it starts but then immediately stalls. I'm going to try a diagnostic with TORQUE in a bit when my phone is charged,
but anyone got any ideas before I do? Is there any way it's a fueling thing , filter/pump ? Thursday I had to nip out and it ran fine till I got to the petrol station, put about 3 gallons in and almost as soon as I pulled out of the station it started playing up at 1k-2k revs and then it stalled. I managed to get to where I was going and back again but it wasn't quite right. I've got no CELs or battery light, I might just try switching off my DASTEK and see if it runs ok on stock ECU..maybe?
Thanks Lance 

[Carolyn]

Ah - running a piggy back!

Yep, I'd take it off and see how she does.  Could be a failing connection.

[shnazzle]

Ah you didn't manage the Dastek!
Yes definitely worth unplugging. Don't talk to me about Dasteks...

[tommytoneism]

Hi all,

                OK...so I pulled the dastek out of the equation and it made no difference, car would start and rev to 2k and then stall.  I did loose my plastic cover about 6 months ago and I was wondering if that may affect anything..? injectors? So I waddle the electric connectors to the injectors and whether it was just because I revved it a little harder I managed to keep it up above 4K. I couldn't keep it steady though I managed to keep it going above 2.5k as it got warmer. I noticed a burning smell and could see the neighbours were getting annoyed by my antics, so I let the pedal go to see if it would idle ..but it didn't. went to check out the burning smell and the back-box was really really hot... the rest of the exhaust apart from the main cat is heat wrapped, and I have a toyosport manifold.

                So what do think?   I'm lost.. 

Thanks again

Lance

[jonbill]

Hard to know if it was hotter than it should be, but if it was,  it might indicate lean running. Which is consistent with the air leak theory and I think not consistent with baffles blocking the induction.
Really I think you need to capture and analyse the data from the engine to see what MAF, fuel trim, lambda etc values are.
If you don't fancy that, you could pull the spark plugs out and have a look. If it was running lean during that session they'll be bone white.

[tommytoneism]

Yes,  running lean on sensors 1 and 2.

              So if air is getting in and it's not at the intake..  where are the likely culprits?    If I need to change any or all of the vacuum hoses, has anyone got a breakdown of the sizes?

Thanks again,

Lance

[Carolyn]

There are 3 hoses going to the intake,  Worth examining them for leaks/cracks two large ones from the cam cover and one small one from the little solenoid valve that connects to the canister (clipped to the side of the big rubber main inlet tub).  You can measure their ID while you're checking them.

Doh!!  What device could be sensitive to lateral G and cause excess air in the intake??

PCV valve!!!

A truly duff PCV could cause your symptoms, though.  I know Dean at Rutland MR2 has some new ones.  They need to be replaced every 30,000 miles or so....

It's on the left hand end of the cam cover, closest to you as you look at the engine.  Examining it to see if it's working doesn't work.  It relies on very specific spring tension, once that's lost, it's buggered.

Could be a hose, though, so examine them first.

[tommytoneism]

I just put the PCV in and no difference, should I have reset the ECU?

Ta lance

[jonbill]

No don't think so. Did you say it had a new MAF? What kind is that? Can you share the values its outputting? Wouldn't be the first new MAF to tell lies.

[tommytoneism]

no , no new MAF.  I think it has to be hose?   

If it's not a hose!!   what are the other possibilities?     I know the previous owner put a resistor in place of the back box sensor, and looks like a crap job?  but surely if that was becoming disconnected I'd be getting a CEL wouldn't I?

[shnazzle]

I'm personally a great hater of the resistor "mod". But it shouldn't (!) cause these symptoms.