Seized bolt removal ideas please

[Carolyn]

You could cut the nut-end off first and see if you can get the bolt to spin a bit.  Then it might hammer out.

[krazysteve]

mapp gas torch, temp gets higher than std blow torch.
heat it till rubber bush starts to ooze out, then keep heating, this is when you can warm the inner steel bush that has froze to the bolt. ( rubber insulates heat hence melt it out)
may have quench cool and re heat, never failed me yet.

[dan944]

Once the nut was off I managed to burn out the rubber and get movement. Then looots of hammering. Are you relaxing the wishbone? If so just cut it off then you can cut straight down the middle [emoji23]

[Bossworld]

Once the nut was off I managed to burn out the rubber and get movement. Then looots of hammering. Are you relaxing the wishbone? If so just cut it off then you can cut straight down the middle [emoji23]

I'm leaning towards that lol I've already cut two chunks out of it to give me more access for cutting other bits off. The fun of a 14 year old car.

I have a tiny bit of movement up/down so I assume that's the bush moving. I'll take another look another day when I've got some time

Thanks all

[Ardent]

Looking at the orig pic. And with all respect to what little access/space is shown and not shown

Do you have room to use a pad/jab saw loaded with hack saw blade and saw down both inner sides of the bracket.
Jigsaw if space allows.
Certainly laborious, but thats all I can offer in terms of suggestions.

[dan944]

I couldn't get a 12" hacksaw in. You might be able to get a junior one in?
I used a dremmel to cut the head off the bolt in the end. Purely out of nerves.
Just put your grinder skills to the test and cut like so. [emoji1787]

[Carolyn]

What kind of blade/disc is going to get in there, without destroying the mount?

[dan944]

What kind of blade/disc is going to get in there, without destroying the mount?

God knows!!  Haha.

Maybe a cut in the centre would give movement to get to each side? I'm stabbing in the dark here but keeping options open as I still have another side to tackle.

[Carolyn]

Right...

Cut off the nut end of the bolt first.  Apply heat and see if you can move/turn the bolt.  Even if only bit-by-bit it will then probably come out.

If you can't shift it.

Cut off both ends.  Grind gently until you've got the bolt flush with the suspension mount.

Then, going in from each end use a burr (see pic) to grind the shaft of the bolt inwards (shortening it) until you've removed enough metal to knock the a-arm out.

It will be slow and tedious ( the steel is bloody hard), but there is no tool that will get inside the mount without damaging the mount itself.

[shnazzle]

I don't have any blowtorches or uggaduggas at my disposal so I've always had to be rather creative with undoing bolts that were entirely stuck. Rarely did it involve destruction.

So, it might not mean much but I've imagined what I would do if this was mine, with the tools I have.

Cut off the head as close as possible to the frame.
Pry that side out, flexing the bracket a bit, so that it popped out of the hole. Given that there are 2 rubber lips alongside the bush, it should flex enough.
Nut splitter on the nut and remove with force. Then a crowbar to pry the assembly away from the car.

It being a rubber bush and SOME space between the bracket and the middle sleeve of the bush, it should all have just enough give to pop out with a lot of force.

Not sure if that's helpful at all. Just how I assess it.

[Ardent]

I couldn't get a 12" hacksaw in. You might be able to get a junior one in?
I used a dremmel to cut the head off the bolt in the end. Purely out of nerves.
Just put your grinder skills to the test and cut like so. [emoji1787]

Not a traditional frame hacksaw. A pad saw with a hacksaw blade.
Actually just a naked hacksaw blade. Wrap rag around the end your holding. Gloves.

[Bossworld]

I think the issue is the one Carolyn's outlined and hence the need for the burring tool. The wishbone should come out of its home with minimal effort providing everything is unbolted but note that it is a snug fit.

But even with chopping both ends off, there'll still be sufficient bolt keeping it in place. Bit like the wooden dowel for the till roll on my firstborn's early learning centre cash register lol

I'm really uncertain about trying to tease it out with force/prying given the age and rust down there.

Plan is to dremel/grind the nut off first as suggested and will take it from there. I did a nice clean job with the drop link on the arb this second time out so a little more experienced.

Will report back in a couple of days. Did buy a nut splitter from Toolstation but it's worse than useless, typical Silverline tat.

Do appreciate the help from everyone thank you

[Ardent]

Something along these lines
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Handy-Handheld-Saw-adjustable-Length-Hacksaw-Blade-Fitted-Into-a-Plastic-Handle/8012044886?iid=252712884071
Cutting inside as per the red lines.
Should avoid what boss rightly points out if cut out side.

[Bossworld]

Something along these lines
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Handy-Handheld-Saw-adjustable-Length-Hacksaw-Blade-Fitted-Into-a-Plastic-Handle/8012044886?iid=252712884071
Cutting inside as per the red lines.
Should avoid what boss rightly points out if cut out side.

I like the idea but I think you'd have to burn through the bushes as another poster suggested first which would give a bit more sight on the target.

Dunno what a hacksaw blade with that tpi is like on hardened rubber but I ended up using the hacksaw with a fresh blade when I was trying to get rid of the castle nut and with a boat load of effort I only made it about 2mm in. Hence the dremel

[moredun]

I would just cut the head of the bolt off, then using a good hammer, hit the bolt untill it's flush with the mounting, then start using a punch to push it right through. But there again, my tool box consists mainly of heavy metal at the end of wooden and firbeglass shafts ....   :withstupid:

[shnazzle]

Hacksaw blade needs to be tungsten carbide. With liberal frequent spraying of wd40 to cool.

A normal hacksaw will be next to useless by the time you get 1mm in.

I had a TC blade but unfortunately they're a bit more brittle as well..did the job very well.. Until it snapped.

[Call the midlife!]

If you're doing away with the wishbone anyway why not try just cutting across between the two, vertical red lines on the photo on two opposing faces and expose the bush? Then you can try gripping it with some moleys and turning the bolt...


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[Joesson]

@Bossworld, I'm guessing you are not as well equipped with tools as @Carolyn so If as @midlife mentions you do not want to save the wishbone and as access to each end of the bolt is restricted perhaps what I would describe as " chain drilling" the housing along the centre line of the bolt would help. This is drilling a series of holes with the circumferences almost touching.
The body of the wishbone is relatively thin, pressed metal, so should drill easily, behind that is the rubber bush and easy to drill through to the bolt. This will allow penetrating fluid to reach the bolt.
If this does not ease the bolt, the drilled hoes can be opened up so that the circumferences overlap. In this way you will have "cut " through the wishbone housing and released the compression of the bush on the bolt.
At each stage give the bolt a good wrench with a six point socket and a breaker bar to check progress.
As Carolyn mentioned, persistence- It really is the best tool in the box.

[Carolyn]

@Bossworld, I'm guessing you are not as well equipped with tools as @Carolyn so If as @midlife mentions you do not want to save the wishbone and as access to each end of the bolt is restricted perhaps what I would describe as " chain drilling" the housing along the centre line of the bolt would help. This is drilling a series of holes with the circumferences almost touching.
The body of the wishbone is relatively thin, pressed metal, so should drill easily, behind that is the rubber bush and easy to drill through to the bolt. This will allow penetrating fluid to reach the bolt.
If this does not ease the bolt, the drilled hoes can be opened up so that the circumferences overlap. In this way you will have "cut " through the wishbone housing and released the compression of the bush on the bolt.
At each stage give the bolt a good wrench with a six point socket and a breaker bar to check progress.
As Carolyn mentioned, persistence- It really is the best tool in the box.

That's the first alternative to my method that will work,  I'd use a centre punch to locate the drill, that way the holes can touch..
Excellent suggestion.

[Joesson]

I'll take that as a compliment Carolyn, thank you.

[Bossworld]

If I've understood correctly you mean drilling the bolt/bushing at a 90 degree angle? Did wonder what the after effects of that would be so thank you for the explanation.

I had a little play earlier this morning and this is the state of what's left. The angle grinder isn't an option for the nut, there's too much in the way. Careful vertical dremeling will get through the rest of the nut and its flange I reckon but will try that drill method next while there's still some bolt left.



I will try and get the drill out in a couple of days, back to the office tomorrow. Not in a major rush it's just fitting this in around looking after the kids

(Yes I went a bit postal on the front of the nut)



Sorry I'm sure the suspense is killing everyone!

[Call the midlife!]

If I've understood correctly you mean drilling the bolt/bushing at a 90 degree angle? Did wonder what the after effects of that would be so thank you for the explanation.

I had a little play earlier this morning and this is the state of what's left. The angle grinder isn't an option for the nut, there's too much in the way. Careful vertical dremeling will get through the rest of the nut and its flange I reckon but will try that drill method next while there's still some bolt left.



I will try and get the drill out in a couple of days, back to the office tomorrow. Not in a major rush it's just fitting this in around looking after the kids

(Yes I went a bit postal on the front of the nut)



Sorry I'm sure the suspense is killing everyone!

Is the leg on that axle stand bent by design or from the weight? Can't help but feel it doesn't look too healthy to be working under...


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[Bossworld]

Is the leg on that axle stand bent by design or from the weight? Can't help but feel it doesn't look too healthy to be working under...


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Don't panic the angle of the photo is off and the stand is covered in muck. I moved the left hand axle stand further down to the jacking point while angle grinding but it's back under the mounting point now.

Will double check that stand now though

[Call the midlife!]

Is the leg on that axle stand bent by design or from the weight? Can't help but feel it doesn't look too healthy to be working under...


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Don't panic the angle of the photo is off and the stand is covered in muck. I moved the left hand axle stand further down to the jacking point while angle grinding but it's back under the mounting point now.

Will double check that stand now though

Cool, it just looks like the leg facing the camera has a kink in it, probably just muck like you say but we've seen them collapse in the past.
Credit to your perseverance though [emoji1303]


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[Carolyn]

I've got my car on the lift with the front wheels and bumper off right now.

I'll have a close look at this 'getting-the-bolt-out' problem tomorrow.

While I'm at it, I think I'll crack mine loose and give them some anti-seize treatment so this  doesn't happen to me!