Seized bolt removal ideas please

[Joesson]

That's right @Bossworld, drill through the bush housing to the bolt at 90 degrees to the length of the bolt. From what I see in your latest pictures you will need to rotate whats left of the wishbone so that you can get clear access to drill the bush housing.
The link shows an example of chain drilling in a workshop, but the principal is the same.
As Carolyn said, using  a centre punch to mark out and position the holes will give the best result. PS, the link shows a workshop example, near enough is good enough for the hole centres when your working as you are.

http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/chain-drilling/

[Bossworld]

I've got my car on the lift with the front wheels and bumper off right now.

I'll have a close look at this 'getting-the-bolt-out' problem tomorrow.

While I'm at it, I think I'll crack mine loose and give them some anti-seize treatment so this  doesn't happen to me!

I think the car's previous owner lived at Saltburn-by-the-sea.

Now I'm no geographer but I reckon it may have played a part in this struggle 

Hopefully you'll encounter no such issues. When this thing is finally off I'm getting a display case for it

[Bossworld]

Well, if anyone's still waiting on an update...

Drilling through - I managed to get through the frame, bush, bushing and I believe (though don't know yet) through the bolt with a reasonable aim first time. I widened the hole to 6mm before snapping the bit although luckily I extracted it with pliers.

A workmate's husband came round to have a look last night (classic car hobbyist). Bought a bigger breaker with him, perhaps that and or a combination of squirting penetrating oil through the newly drilled hole and I was able to get the bolt to turn the remains of the wishbone up and down.

The nut was moving a couple of mm either way with that movement but nothing proper. I was also very concerned about bracing against the remains of the wishbone as it was likely to damage the mounting point.

Anyway, managed to dremel out the nut without causing damage. The bolt was then much happier to rotate the arm but again it's definitely seized in the bushing. No amount of hammering was budging it through either.

Angle ground the bolt and its washer/spacer off and I'm left with the scenario Carolyn advised, so kudos to her.

So current state of play - I chipped the brushes on my dremel using the burr but I've made a very decent impression in what was the bolt end. Once the replacement dremel brushes arrive I reckon I'll have it out.

Cost £11 for the replacement bolt, spacer and nut from Toyota - I'll check the breakdown when I pick the bits up.

To Patrick's point - it possibly could be levered out but I am very wary of the state of that metal and don't want to risk flexing it.

Thanks again to all and I'll post a pic when it's all finally out.

[dan944]

Well, if anyone's still waiting on an update...

Drilling through - I managed to get through the frame, bush, bushing and I believe (though don't know yet) through the bolt with a reasonable aim first time. I widened the hole to 6mm before snapping the bit although luckily I extracted it with pliers.

A workmate's husband came round to have a look last night (classic car hobbyist). Bought a bigger breaker with him, perhaps that and or a combination of squirting penetrating oil through the newly drilled hole and I was able to get the bolt to turn the remains of the wishbone up and down.

The nut was moving a couple of mm either way with that movement but nothing proper. I was also very concerned about bracing against the remains of the wishbone as it was likely to damage the mounting point.

Anyway, managed to dremel out the nut without causing damage. The bolt was then much happier to rotate the arm but again it's definitely seized in the bushing. No amount of hammering was budging it through either.

Angle ground the bolt and its washer/spacer off and I'm left with the scenario Carolyn advised, so kudos to her.

So current state of play - I chipped the brushes on my dremel using the burr but I've made a very decent impression in what was the bolt end. Once the replacement dremel brushes arrive I reckon I'll have it out.

Cost £11 for the replacement bolt, spacer and nut from Toyota - I'll check the breakdown when I pick the bits up.

To Patrick's point - it possibly could be levered out but I am very wary of the state of that metal and don't want to risk flexing it.

Thanks again to all and I'll post a pic when it's all finally out.

Good effort that man!!!

I'm hopefully going to receive my remaining bits by the weekend to join on the luxuries of new bushes and being able to drive the car again.

I think any advice to anyone doing this is Apply plusgas generously for weeks before hand and make sure you don't plan on having the car for a while ....just in case.

[Tomo70]

Just gone through this process myself but without the misery that boss and Dan sufffered. My main concern is the condition of the metal around the bolts and what's the best thing to do about painting that before fitting new front wishbones.

[Carolyn]

Just gone through this process myself but without the misery that boss and Dan sufffered. My main concern is the condition of the metal around the bolts and what's the best thing to do about painting that before fitting new front wishbones.

Good thinking!  I was going to suggest doing this while it's in bits. 

Wire brush the rust off.  Bilt Hamber rust treatment.  When cured, zinc primer, then paint.

[Tomo70]

Just gone through this process myself but without the misery that boss and Dan sufffered. My main concern is the condition of the metal around the bolts and what's the best thing to do about painting that before fitting new front wishbones.

Cheers Caroline, I was thinking along those lines but wasn't sure about rust treatment. Got Zinc primer and paint. Just it's not good curing times in cold garage.


Good thinking!  I was going to suggest doing this while it's in bits. 

Wire brush the rust off.  Bilt Hamber rust treatment.  When cured, zinc primer, then paint.

[Carolyn]

Just gone through this process myself but without the misery that boss and Dan sufffered. My main concern is the condition of the metal around the bolts and what's the best thing to do about painting that before fitting new front wishbones.

Cheers Caroline, I was thinking along those lines but wasn't sure about rust treatment. Got Zinc primer and paint. Just it's not good curing times in cold garage.

Good thinking!  I was going to suggest doing this while it's in bits. 

Wire brush the rust off.  Bilt Hamber rust treatment.  When cured, zinc primer, then paint.

Fan heater pointed at bit in question.

[Call the midlife!]

Just gone through this process myself but without the misery that boss and Dan sufffered. My main concern is the condition of the metal around the bolts and what's the best thing to do about painting that before fitting new front wishbones.

Cheers Caroline, I was thinking along those lines but wasn't sure about rust treatment. Got Zinc primer and paint. Just it's not good curing times in cold garage.

Good thinking!  I was going to suggest doing this while it's in bits. 

Wire brush the rust off.  Bilt Hamber rust treatment.  When cured, zinc primer, then paint.

Fan heater pointed at bit in question.

Curiosity here, which Bilt Hamber do you mean? I've bought 2 different products in the run up to doing the work on mine but have yet to use either.
Deox C and another one you paint on in two layers and leave on but I don't remember it saying to use zinc primer?
I stupidly left my con rods in water based degreaser overnight and they've broken out in rust spots too..[emoji851]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Carolyn]

A bit of fine wet&dry should sort your conrods.  Try soaking in petrol or kerosene.

This is what I've been using lately:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-Hydrate-80-Rust-Killer-Barrier-System-500ml-bottle/181191937689?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

But any good rust treatment should suffice.  I always tend to use zinc primer to help resist new rust and to help paint to adhere well.  I'm no 'bible' on this stuff!

I just reckon the best protection is to treat the rust and then paint properly.

[dan944]

Thanks to Paul at tcbparts I can now crack on with getting it back together and trying the other side.
I can guarantee I'll be blaspheming on that side as well [emoji17]

[dan944]

Ps, that was next day delivery. Now that's nifty

[Call the midlife!]

A bit of fine wet&dry should sort your conrods.  Try soaking in petrol or kerosene.

This is what I've been using lately:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-Hydrate-80-Rust-Killer-Barrier-System-500ml-bottle/181191937689?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

But any good rust treatment should suffice.  I always tend to use zinc primer to help resist new rust and to help paint to adhere well.  I'm no 'bible' on this stuff!

I just reckon the best protection is to treat the rust and then paint properly.

So not the deox C for the conrods, bit too aggressive? It's the Hydrate that I have also, was going to use it on a lot of the brackets and other bits I'll be stripping off.
Although I'm well behind already so we'll see how that pans out![emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bossworld]

Ahem



Thanks again to everyone!

Current state of play is that my garage is covered in shrapnel that I must sweep before putting wheels back on and putting the car back on the ground, but the nearside is all bolted up. Replacement speed sensor cable fitted too.

Just need to

Reattach brake disc, pad carrier and calliper.
Reattach arch liner (and survey the mass of damaged clips)
Grease top mounts as per Carolyn's guide.
Reassemble frunk and frunk cover.
Stick wheels back on

The one casualty has been my dremel - it chipped the brushes after running the burring tool for a while. Annoyingly I ordered new ones which came with springs that were far too long, and wedged the brushes in the power switch. Had to smash those back out, fiver down the drain but reused the old ones which just about got me over the line before it died again. Looks like a new power switch and brushes is less than a fiver off a Chinese seller on eBay.

The only regret I've got, other than time spent, is that I only replaced the nearside inner tie rod. There wasn't any in/out play in the offside, but the ball
joint is obviously 14 years more worn than the nearside.

[dan944]

Ahem



Thanks again to everyone!

Current state of play is that my garage is covered in shrapnel that I must sweep before putting wheels back on and putting the car back on the ground, but the nearside is all bolted up. Replacement speed sensor cable fitted too.

Just need to

Reattach brake disc, pad carrier and calliper.
Reattach arch liner (and survey the mass of damaged clips)
Grease top mounts as per Carolyn's guide.
Reassemble frunk and frunk cover.
Stick wheels back on

The one casualty has been my dremel - it chipped the brushes after running the burring tool for a while. Annoyingly I ordered new ones which came with springs that were far too long, and wedged the brushes in the power switch. Had to smash those back out, fiver down the drain but reused the old ones which just about got me over the line before it died again. Looks like a new power switch and brushes is less than a fiver off a Chinese seller on eBay.

The only regret I've got, other than time spent, is that I only replaced the nearside inner tie rod. There wasn't any in/out play in the offside, but the ball
joint is obviously 14 years more worn than the nearside.

Well that was an epic battle.

Hats off to you sir. Collateral damage is allowed when the car won't play nice. Lucky the dremmel is repairable.

I start again today so will take this information forward.

[Bossworld]

Thanks to Paul at tcbparts I can now crack on with getting it back together and trying the other side.
I can guarantee I'll be blaspheming on that side as well

Going back to the parts catalogue post I made, the Toyota diagrams make reference to a retainer in between the two bushes of the drop link.  I ended up with two different brands as they were all Amazon had, one brand had an outward lip where the two rubber bushes meet, the other brand an inner (presumably for this fabled retainer).  Neither came with said middle metal retainer, only the one on the top and the bottom.

The top of the new wishbone has a groove for the bush to sit in anyway so not overly concerned, and I suppose some people do away with ARBs completely, but there's another parts mystery for you.

9094802178   RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.2(FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)   48817B   ZZW30

Good luck with the other side, hopefully it doesn't put up as much of a battle for you.

[dan944]

How strange. I can't really make comment but will look to see how mine sits.

[dan944]

Got the other side wishbone on this afternoon. Once again that dreaded bolt was seized.
So used the same method of much heat and beat.
Did not budge...
New plan, burn out bush to achieve max movement.
Bring out the 9" cutting disc.
Pray I'm accurate.

Had to turn and cut a few times but off she came and once the bolt was cut, lone behold...

It fell to pieces!!!
But I also discovered what the spacer was that @bossworld pointed out from the exploded diagram.
It seems to be part of the bush and can be seen in the second image.

[Bossworld]

Got the other side wishbone on this afternoon. Once again that dreaded bolt was seized.
So used the same method of much heat and beat.
Did not budge...
New plan, burn out bush to achieve max movement.
Bring out the 9" cutting disc.
Pray I'm accurate.

Had to turn and cut a few times but off she came and once the bolt was cut, lone behold
It fell to pieces!!!
But I also discovered what the spacer was that @bossworld pointed out from the exploded diagram.
It seems to be part of the bush and can be seen in the second image.

I've just taken another look at my remains, does this look like it might be wedged on? (This is the nut side as it were). This would mean it doesn't touch the flange nut.

Still can't really see what structural difference it would make given the bolt only just goes through the mount points on both sides but hey ho

[dan944]

Got the other side wishbone on this afternoon. Once again that dreaded bolt was seized.
So used the same method of much heat and beat.
Did not budge...
New plan, burn out bush to achieve max movement.
Bring out the 9" cutting disc.
Pray I'm accurate.

Had to turn and cut a few times but off she came and once the bolt was cut, lone behold
It fell to pieces!!!
But I also discovered what the spacer was that @bossworld pointed out from the exploded diagram.
It seems to be part of the bush and can be seen in the second image.

Hmm what do you reckon then? Was it fitted on the end of the bushing before it's pushed in between the mounting point?

I'm 99.9% confident there wasn't one fitted on either side of my car

I think so. It was solid until I burnt it all out. The sleeve itself is just a sleeve and the spacer/washed thing I was just on one end. Rather odd tbh.

[Bossworld]

Posted a pic after your reply, think the mystery is solved.

The metal part of the bushing still protrudes out beyond the spacer so personally, I'm not going to dismantle it all again or lose any sleep over it

[dan944]

Posted a pic after your reply, think the mystery is solved.

The metal part of the bushing still protrudes out beyond the spacer so personally, I'm not going to dismantle it all again or lose any sleep over it

I'm just glad the thing is off now. Hopefully get out for a drive tomorrow and see how everything is

[M.J.S]

Posted a pic after your reply, think the mystery is solved.

The metal part of the bushing still protrudes out beyond the spacer so personally, I'm not going to dismantle it all again or lose any sleep over it

I'm just glad the thing is off now. Hopefully get out for a drive tomorrow and see how everything is

How did the drive go?

[dan944]

Posted a pic after your reply, think the mystery is solved.

The metal part of the bushing still protrudes out beyond the spacer so personally, I'm not going to dismantle it all again or lose any sleep over it

I'm just glad the thing is off now. Hopefully get out for a drive tomorrow and see how everything is

How did the drive go?

Good thanks. Felt great. Really need the tracking sorted now as I've removed every suspension component but it's a remarkable difference.

Engine bushings have introduced a fair amount of vibration but I guess that's the trade of for beautiful gear changes.

I need to secure all my plastics now to reduce the rattle.

[Carolyn]

There was another way to get the gear changes, less engine wobble and no extra vibration....