Gary's Track Day/Fast Road Weekend Car 1zz Turbo.. Now Built 2zz Turbo with E153

Started by Gaz2405, March 11, 2019, 20:39

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Gaz2405

Half an hour on the car this morning.

Replaced the PCV valve with an larger diameter 3/8 BSP, threaded barb.

Both breathers now run in AN10 hosing to a 1L catch can which is now filled with steel wool/Brillo pads to act as baffles.

I'll see how this set up goes, as I also have a 2l baffled catch can to swap in.

I've also got the 3 port Mac boost controller wired in temporary to see how we get on, plan is to keep the peak boost of 18.5 psi and not let it tail off to 15psi at redline.

Planning on doing this by using the boost controller in open loop mode in the ECU, by monitoring and adjusting the duty cycle required, as last time I had issues with the PID settings trying to get the closed loop working.

Was hoping to get our this weekend, but the weather wasn't playing ball.

Few engine bay pics below to give you a flavour.

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I'm also getting some time on a local rolling road to get some power runs in and do some tuning.

It'll be interesting to see how by "road tune" looks.   
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

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Gaz2405

Went to take the car out today....


Didn't go to plan.

Once the revs are up to 3k, they won't drop without letting the clutch out in gear to try and stall it.

It's not a stuck throttle cable or throttle body, I've checked manually with the throttle body and the TPS is at zero.

My first thought is a knackered IACV after I've been tried reviving the old one.

I'm positive it's not a vacuum leak.

So I've ordered a new IACV to see if it fixes the problem.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

One thing I thought it could have been, whilst out trying to fix it.

The only things I've done since last going out in it are:

1. 'sort' the IACV, which meant quite a bit of boost pipe work off.

2. Update the ECU's firmware.

Whilst out in the car I reverted the firmware back just incase.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Quote from: Anon on January 15, 2023, 19:42Can you slip the inlet pipe off the throttle body, then put your finger down the hole and block the IACV orifice on the side? If it stalls instantly you know there is too much air going round the idle control bypass route for whatever reason.

Yeah I might try that 👍
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

I've also got rid of my PCV for a non valved version, but cant think that would do anything.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Quick hour on the car tonight.

I've swapped my IACV, with a known working one from my 1zz which was in nearly new condition. (Different part numbers but they are interchangeable)

I've left the PCV as is, as I can't think how that would affect it as I've got them venting to atmosphere.

Inspected all the boost pipes and reconnected.

Also found another cause of a rattle, exhaust clamp just catching in the crash bar.

Won't know if it's got it until a test drive.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Sooo....tried the new IACV from my 1zz.

Jobs fxcked still not happening.

So I made the mistake of ordering an eBay one.

Fitted that last night, won't start without the throttle and dies.

So out into the spare parts cupboard I go.

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Now I know this is a fully working 2zz throttle body so I'll swap the whole fecking thing!

We've got dry roads this weekend and I want to get out and turn the boost up!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Nvy

I admire your dedication! You will have tons of spares after than :))

Gaz2405

New throttle body on....


Same symptoms.

Sod it I'll let it warm up and then at least go out for a thrash for an hour or two.

Jesus this thing is fast!

But I was starting to stall at junctions.

After playing with the PID settings on the idle control I was having no luck.

Queue pouring over the internet for answers.

A lot of answers were pointing towards the throttle cable, now mine has a tiny, tiny bit of slack. Tps shows 0% with nothing on it.

So rather than scrape my knuckles trying to get somewhere I can't I put a 3mm zip tie around the throttle cable at the pedal.

Left her 4 hours to cool down.

Started on the button, Tps sees 1%, but the IACV and ignition idle tables can bring the idle right down, quick test drive no stalling at junctions and perfect idle.

If it's been the cable all along......insert face palm.


Also had a small oil weep from the rocker cover so new gasket and stuck the carbon dipped cam cover back on.


Next up tomorrow, new power steering lines.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.

Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

puma2

Quote from: Gaz2405 on February  5, 2023, 00:36Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.

Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.

quick while she is away anything needs cleaning in the dishwasher or washing machine so she will not no .act fast :))  :))

Gaz2405

Quote from: puma2 on February  5, 2023, 09:58
Quote from: Gaz2405 on February  5, 2023, 00:36Wife's away this weekend, so got bored at 11pm.

Into the garage to fit new power steering lines.

quick while she is away anything needs cleaning in the dishwasher or washing machine so she will not no .act fast :))  :))

Oh we're on a level on that.

If she gets home and the dishwasher has been emptied and put away, she knows car parts have been in there.

Cam cover,chain cover, inlet manifold, rear arms, they've all been in. 😂
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Out for some testing and mapping today.

Still struggling with that oil leak, I'll get under the car now and have a poke around, it's definitely coming from around the VVt solenoid area,which is obviously Lian to get to see properly.

Anyway. Great day mapping regardless.disnt play with boost control, just got my afr's dialled in what were working with at the moment.

But I do need to sort it, as I've got peak boost pressure of 19.5psi now the sprig has settled, tailing off to 15psi, I'd like to keep the boost the same throughout.

Anyway onto testing, didn't want to do any launches for feat I'd try gearbox, but did do 5 or 6 60 - 100 runs.

Best result was a 5.5, but generally around the 6 second mark. So pretty eased with that, shame I don't have data to compare my old builds to.

So now back into the overalls to look for this bloody leak!

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Call the midlife!

You don't think you've stripped the threads on the vvt filter housing do you? Speaking from experience it's easily done and will blow past the threads if you have.
60% of the time it works everytime...

Gaz2405

Quote from: Call the midlife! on February  5, 2023, 16:13You don't think you've stripped the threads on the vvt filter housing do you? Speaking from experience it's easily done and will blow past the threads if you have.

I don't think so, but it maybe coming past the o ring.

Found a few things.

1. It's awkward AF putting the cam cover back in with a return fuel rail as it fouls the crank case breather hard pipe when doing the nut up, so you have to do the nut up (with a modified spanner) then slide the cam cover into position.

2. Bottom crank case breather hard pipe, had spun one but loose out of three so potentially coming from there too.

3. Evidence of oil higher up the back of the block as it's forming n the bottom of the inlet manifold.


So plan is, order the BOE block of plates to eliminate that potential zone and at the same time get a new VVt actuator as I had to be quite forceful getting this one to fit with the hard pipe in situ.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Call the midlife!

I never got that far first time around with mine but I'll be finding out when I try again with the new car. 😂
60% of the time it works everytime...

Gaz2405

Little bit more tinkering tonight.

Fuel pump had been starting to make quite a racket,it was a Kenao 340l. So swapped it out for a walbro 255l, quick swap 30 mins and done.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Well....I thought my cold start issues had gone.

It's still not right, still needs throttle for the first couple of minutes.

Think I'm going to play with the throttle plate screw next to try and fudge it that way.

I've read online that disconnecting the battery can help the IACV to forget and then learn the idle again. Not sure if that will work with a stand alone ECU.

Anyway onto boost, boost controller now hooked up and working a full 21 psi until redline now. 

I can confirm this thing is bonkers at that sort of boost.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Quote from: Anon on February 11, 2023, 22:12I'm not sure how to get EMU to control this type of idle air valve correctly, they seem to offer little in the way of documentation for it.

On the screen shot you sent a while back you have it set for 200hz pwm using Hbridge1B. Also you have the TPS set to 1% idle on, 2% idle off.... I've gone wider so the idle strategy kicks in below 5% instead to try to be more forgiving - I still don't have it working correctly mind.

Toyota wire it to have 12v to one pin, gnd to the other, then I think the ECU emits a PWM waveform to flutter the rotor inside. This page details their operation really well.

https://alflash.com.ua/idlet.htm

That video isn't for the EMU, but they at least talk about this type of valve although it is the dual driver type, where I think 1zz uses the single driver type. https://youtu.be/8odrvOQqZ-U?t=274

I was thinking of plugging a spare IACV into the harness and watch the valve move to see if its even controlling it properly. Then getting the scope out on a stock OEM car to watch the waveform.

Thanks for the info yes it uses PID algorithm to control the valve.

I've changed the settings to activate idle at 5% tps now.

It's set to open 100% for cranking and does as it fires up on the key but then dies.

The throttle plate on the 2zz is meant to be fully closed for idle with only the IACV letting air through.

However, after pouring over threads on Spyder chat and new Celica, I've adjusted the throttle plate stop to see the closed position at 1% tps.

I can then set the idle strategy using the IACV and the ignition control.

I'll go back through my old maps on my 1zz and see if I've completely missed something idle strategy wise. But I don't think I have I'm pretty sure this is a mechanical issue.

I'll be trying the above on the car later today and taking out my first passenger for their reaction.

I've also had no change in the noisy fuel pump, however after soke googling, it seems that some return line systems can be noisy at idle with a metallic sounding noise.

Which is often related to the actual fuel lines, so I might look at turning my fuel pressure down, I'm set at 55psi rather than 43.5psi.

I'll also look at changing our the return line for a non braided line and try and clip to the bulk head better.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Quote from: Anon on February 12, 2023, 08:35With all throttle bodies like this as I've taken quite alot of them apart and then reassembled and set them back up to work eventually OK; you set up the stop screw so you can just see the finest crescent of light over and under the butterfly. You have to keep slapping them closed and open over and over, then look up at the light, adjust the screw and lock nut. It's quite a fine line to find.

If it is to closed you find the throttle jams/sticks under vacuum conditions and you have to press the pedal pretty hard to overcome the jam. The little gap needs to be small enough so it won't quite idle nicely on that air gap... maybe only supplying 50% of the required air at idle. But enough to try to stop it from stalling out quickly.

Yeah that's what I've done, took my two spare ones and compared them, both were fully shut.

So I've adjusted to have a small crescent of light coming through.

I've got it down to about 10 minutes now to remove all intercooler pipe work and have the throttle body removed!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Idle and cold start sorted. Boom.

Oil leak still apparent!

Blanking plates should be here soon, I'll order a new cam cover gasket too and new VVt solenoid just to make sure.

Hopefully that will sort it.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Haven't touched the car for ages, I was waiting for some blanking plates to arrive.

Still not here....so I made my own out of some 4mm stainless plate I had.

Anyway, blanking plates fitted along with new cam cover gasket.

So cold start and idle are now officially sorted.

It was time to test the blanking plates and new cam cover gasket.

I'm running both of my cam breathers into a catch can so I was nervous of not having enough breathing with the main crank case breather blocked off.

Test drive tonight, hitting allllll of the boost 22psi to redline now at 8350rpm, this thing is naughty!

Back in after an hours blast, oil leak seems to have now gone.

I also found the cause of my annoying rattle I couldn't trace down that was near the fuel tank, I thought it was perhaps fuel lines and I've also swapped the fuel pump out too.

Turns out it was a loose rear engine mount where it mounts to the chassis, I'd loosened them to get the mount fitted and then now done them back up, so it was loose enough to just cause a rattle at a certain rpm.

It's always the simple things!

So this weekend, looks like I'll sort a DIY alignment and then look to get to a rolling road soon to see some numbers.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Threw a bucket of water over it ready for some B blasting tomorrow.

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1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Great couple of days out and about in the car.

Decided to get the boost controller set up "properly" as well.

I'd been bodging the springs in the waste gate to get the boost pressure I required.

So essentially just had high boost.

So got my Mac 3 port out and wired it in permanently.

Changed the waste gate spring for a 12 psi one.

Opened up, open loop strategy and away we went.

Soooo simple to use on the emu black, within 5 or 6 pulls I was at 22psi and now have high and low boost settings.

I'll wire in a switch to the dashboard to give the option to run both tunes.

I'll insert a few pulls in a video below 💪👍
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

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