Mk3 OBD2 code P1349

Elektronic · September 5, 2019, 16:32

Hi,
I'm going through the possible causes for the above code. Done the simple thing, changed oil. The OCV seems OK, not gummed, works with 12vs. Now the more difficult item.
The OCV filter, seems it is below the OCV which is bad enough to get at and to make matters worse i believe its behind the alternator. Has anyone got ideas on how to get at the OCV filter with the engine in situ. It's on far side of the engine against the bulkhead. Thoughts, advice, ideas anyone

Ardent · September 5, 2019, 16:42

It can be done. Remove charcoal canister for openers. For a bit more space.
The filter sits just under the PC. Just looks like a bolt head.

The hands of an 8 year old with triple jointed wrists would be useful in this situation.

Maybe certain cranked spanners help, don't know I gave up. But then I didn't have a code to sort out.

Ardent · September 5, 2019, 16:43

Just noticed you are in Leicester.
Perhaps a meet up when I get back from hols.

Carolyn · September 5, 2019, 17:39

Take the auxiliary belt off (in how to's).

Remove top bolt from alternator and loosen the bottom bolt. Swing it away from the engine.

Makes the filter at lot easier to deal with.

Ardent · September 6, 2019, 09:47

I'm sure I posted this yesterday but not showing now.
Maybe didn't hit the post button.

@Elektronic
Might just be worth re-setting code and monitoring for a while.

DTC P1349 is also output after the foreign object is caught in some part of the system in the engine oil and the system returns to normal in a short time. As ECM controls so that foreign objects are ejected, there is no problem about VVT. There is also no problem since the oil filter should get the foreign object in the engine oil.

Elektronic · September 6, 2019, 15:03

Update,
Ive reset the code, still the engine light and code comes on.
When i tested the original it worked, but oscillated, meaning it shuttled back and forth very quickly. Don't know it that is how it actually operates in situ. Rather than take chances and struggle again I have a replacement on its way. If that does not cure it..... with hands of a 8 year old Ill attempt to slacken the alternator and try to get at the plug. Ive already changed the auxiliary belt, so I'm getting some practice
Thanks Ardent and Carolyn

Ardent · September 6, 2019, 17:56

How was the test done?

I thought on the bench, when the ocv
is fed 12v the plunger(?) fully extends or retracts.

Don't think it should oscillate if fed a constant voltage.

Carolyn · September 6, 2019, 19:08

Quote from: Ardent on September 6, 2019, 17:56How was the test done?

I thought on the bench, when the ocv
is fed 12v the plunger(?) fully extends or retracts.

Don't think it should oscillate if fed a constant voltage.

No it shouldn't oscillate.

onion86 · September 7, 2019, 01:13

You can get to the filter without removing the belt and moving the alternator, but it is very fiddly, I've done it a few times by just moving the dipstick out of the way a little... However, I've also dropped the filter/bolt down the back of the engine a few times too

Elektronic · September 8, 2019, 09:35

Thanks for the notes and advice. Yes I did the test on the bench....so mind made up, in goes a new valve.Its reassuring that the the filter can be accessed with the engine in situ, i'll defer on that little task ! until I've fitted the new valve.
Here's hoping.

Carolyn · September 8, 2019, 10:28

Quote from: Elektronic on September 8, 2019, 09:35Thanks for the notes and advice. Yes I did the test on the bench....so mind made up, in goes a new valve.Its reassuring that the the filter can be accessed with the engine in situ, i'll defer on that little task ! until I've fitted the new valve.
Here's hoping.

I strongly advise you to service the filter while you're in there.

Ardent · September 8, 2019, 14:10

Would be rude not to.
Just don't drop it.

Ardent · September 10, 2019, 09:48

@Elektronic

Any update?

onion86 · September 13, 2019, 19:02

Quote from: Ardent on September 8, 2019, 14:10Would be rude not to.
Just don't drop it.

I find this very helpful. I did kill a filter with it once and have to get a new one though, but not many other options when you drop the filter - https://www.amazon.co.uk/NoCry-Pick-up-Tool-Set-Telescoping/dp/B07D23M5R7

Elektronic · September 14, 2019, 10:05

Update No2
Having purchased a new OCV I compared the 2, seems my original one had semi jammed, there was at least 2mm difference in the resting valve position! Not much but I guess sufficient to restrict oil flow.
I tested the original OCV again, did not shuttle, so i guess my bad connection. Meanwhile having 'operated' the valve electrically several times the valve returned fully to its rested position.

Ok against advice I'm deferring the filter clean, getting the OCV out although very fiddly is nothing compared to getting the OCV fixing bolt back in and started. Dropped 2 bolts down the back of the engine. Followed advice, slackened the alternator and pushed back, plus of course removed the carbon canister and bracket.
So new valve is in, plan to run awhile if only to rest battered hands and get enthusiasm to tackle the dreaded filter bolt.
BTW, in a fit i decided to decat the precats followed the excellent write up on this site. The only thing I would add :
1. Do replace the o ring steel gaskets manifold to cat, plus the manifold to cyl head steel gasket
2. Unlike the original author i find the exhaust is more noisy.....booms a little. I guess not surprising as exhaust expands into a large hollow chamber.
3. If like me you have an elderly MR2, jazzed up the manifold metal heat shields (rusting and discoloured ) with Matt Black heat resistant paint, spray paint.

Hope the above ramblings are of interest. I hope I don't have to tackle the filter !

Elektronic · September 18, 2019, 12:15

Update No3
So having rested battered hands finally did tackle the OCV filter.
Auxiliary belt off
Alternator pushed forward
Dipstick tube moved
Medium extension with U/J and 3/8 drive socket
Urikea got the bolt out!
Now for the bomb shell.....there's no filter. Tweezers, small mirror, definitely no filter and no sign of any remnants.
Getting one ordered.
Perhaps that explains why the problem.......debris getting thro to the OCV.
Anyone know who will stock a filter.
@Onion 86 thanks for the link for the magnetic pick up tool and claw

Ardent · September 18, 2019, 16:16

I would imagine just going to your local Mr T parts dept is your best bet.

Carolyn · September 18, 2019, 16:38

Quote from: Elektronic on September 18, 2019, 12:15Update No3
So having rested battered hands finally did tackle the OCV filter.
Auxiliary belt off
Alternator pushed forward
Dipstick tube moved
Medium extension with U/J and 3/8 drive socket
Urikea got the bolt out!
Now for the bomb shell.....there's no filter. Tweezers, small mirror, definitely no filter and no sign of any remnants.
Getting one ordered.
Perhaps that explains why the problem.......debris getting thro to the OCV.
Anyone know who will stock a filter.
@Onion 86 thanks for the link for the magnetic pick up tool and claw

I've got a couple. You can have one.

PM me with your address.

You may want to do an engine flush to see if you can clean out the VVTI system.

Elektronic · December 8, 2019, 15:15

Update No 4
So after x 2 engine flushes, plus OCV/filter/oil changes the dreaded 1349 code appears as soon as the engine is truly hot.
@Carolyn /@Onion 86. Is replacement of the VVTI mechanism as straight forward as your write ups suggest. Comments thoughts from anyone welcome.
Meanwhile its one for the list of todo's after Christmas.

Carolyn · December 8, 2019, 15:29

Quote from: Elektronic on December 8, 2019, 15:15Update No 4
So after x 2 engine flushes, plus OCV/filter/oil changes the dreaded 1349 code appears as soon as the engine is truly hot.
@Carolyn /@Onion 86. Is replacement of the VVTI mechanism as straight forward as your write ups suggest. Comments thoughts from anyone welcome.
Meanwhile its one for the list of todo's after Christmas.

If you've not done it before, you just want to take it very slow and steady. Mark the chain so it lines up with the locked groove on the top of the vvti hub and mark the chain and exhaust sprocket - makes timing so much easier. You can do it. And if you get stuck, there's plenty of assistance available.

Main thing is - there's no prizes for doing it quick.

Ardent · December 8, 2019, 15:34

Will respond properly when I get home may have a couple of useful articles.

Elektronic · December 8, 2019, 18:28

@Carolyn
Thanks for the words of encouragement.....I will take heed and take it slowly.

Ardent · December 8, 2019, 18:33

@Elektronic

Have you absolutely ruled everything else out?
The diagnostic process leaves replacement till the very end, it starts with valve timing. Has this been checked?

I have attached the diagnostic process and some articles on the VVTi in the following link.

https://ln.sync.com/dl/2de74e620/snnbww53-susyh4by-wg4dxtby-bb7v8k8s

Carolyn · December 8, 2019, 18:50

Quote from: Elektronic on December 8, 2019, 18:28@Carolyn
Thanks for the words of encouragement.....I will take heed and take it slowly.

When you get the valve cover off, I'll talk you through checking the timing. I'll be very surprised if it's off, though.

Ardent · December 8, 2019, 20:46

@Carolyn

I agree with you, I would normally be surprised, as not the sort of thing that comes up very often.
My thoughts are, collectively we have little to no history.
I find it concerning @Elektronic found there was no OCV filter.
Suggests unknown work has already been carried out prior to ownership.
Has someone already been in there? A link out?
Not everyone is as meticulous as you. A whole filter missing, so a link here or there....
So I am thinking start with the basics.

Now who did I pick that up from.