Mk3 OBD2 code P1349

[Carolyn]

Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise  with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !

Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html

 probably a bent pin in the connector. 

Original problem is almost certainly the hub.

If no obviously bent pin at the ECU, continuity  at the ecu end of the loom would be a good test.

I meant pin at the other end.... at the valve.  It's been disconnected and reconnected a few times, it seems.

[Carolyn]

Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise  with a very slight change in idle.
Thought I would exchange the cam sensor as the 12v to the OCV didn't seem definitive.
I now have P1656 . The warning light illuminates as soon as I start up.
Could I have caused damage to OCV windings ( its difficult to get the probes onto the OCV pins ). Or worse still damaged the ECM.
I guess its substitute the OCV first ?
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !

Read this: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1656_toyota.html

 probably a bent pin in the connector. 

Original problem is almost certainly the hub.

If no obviously bent pin at the ECU, continuity  at the ecu end of the loom would be a good test.

Considering that the OCV has been replaced and then disconnected and re-connected, I would think  it's most likely that a continuity problem has been created at the valve connection.

Putting 12v through it should be harmless, and the ECU won't have been 'in touch' with the valve at the time, so damage there is improbable.

[Ardent]

Update:
Applied 12v to OCV in situ. No real discernible change in idle, but rushing /chain noise  with a very slight change in idle.
Anyone know a good mechanic in the Leicester area !

Part 1.
If I recall, you have replaced the OCV, if that is working properly and you put the 12v across it, ideally you are looking  for the engine to stall if the controller is working.
As @Carolyn said, it is sadly increasingly looking like the vvti itself. Rare indeed, but given the "unknown" work that has gone before, who knows.

Part 2
Living in Leicester, you and I are very lucky, that there is a fantastic local diagnostic mechanic. Sadly, for you, me and everyone else, he himself is out of commission. This is the sort of thing he revels in.
He is a full fat, Toyota trained master technician.

[Elektronic]

@Carolyn @ ARDENT,
Thanks for the comments. Ill look closely at the OCV terminals and connector.
Hopefully get that fixed. The VVTI unit will be a project for the new year.
@ ARDENT, do you know of D1 Customs Toyota in Loughborough, allegedly he specialises in MR2.

[Ardent]

Sadly he is the chap I was referring to.
Top bloke.
Was involved in an accident.
Recovery is taking longer then we hoped.

[Elektronic]

Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?

[Carolyn]

Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?

Yes, there is a spring-loaded locking pin operated by oil pressure.

Looks like it was the cam sensor.  If the light stays away and the car runs fine.  That should be all you need to do.

I'd like to have the cranskhaft sensor back, please. 

[Ardent]

Update
A long update for fellow Newbies !
Yes it seems i did bend one of the OCV pins trying to get a 12v feed working effectively blind. Decided to start again, out with the OCV, fitted made up leads with the correct size lucars. Interestingly with 12v correctly applied definite clicking noise from the OCV or VVTI hub. Clicking continued for about 10 secs. Engine then stumbled and stalled.
Restarted engine applied 12v, again stalled, repeated.
With the original camshaft sensor fitted , lasted about 8 miles before the dreaded warning light. Fitted substitute camshaft sensor, replicated high load high speed and low speed trying to get the OCV to open under all conditions.
So far no warning light.
Will continue to run the car until ( or IF !! ) the warning light returns. Then will tackle the hub unit.
Of note was the fact when removing the OCV to remove the lucars, oil surrounding the OCV was clean/clear. Also the clicking, was not my imagination. Did I read correctly somewhere there is a detent spring which locks the hub unit, oil pressure has to then overcome that spring allow the appropriate advance/retard ?

Great news.
Stumble and stalling is what you want to happen.
As per @Carolyn looks like you make have cracked it. You have proven the hub works.
As towards the top of this thread (I think this one) it is unusual for the vvt to fail.

Get out and enjoy.

[Elektronic]

@Carolyn @ Ardent
Thanks for your encouragement, yes will now enjoy.
Of course will return the crank sensor.

[Elektronic]

It's back, the dreaded P1349. After over a month of freedom it returns.I have cleared the code just in case but it returns. Whats baffling is that it clearly works some times during a journey. Ive proved that with 12v direct to the OCV it works. To those move experienced with the VVT hub, can it stick or be sluggish ?
I fear i will have to change the hub unit. Thoughts anyone ?

[Carolyn]

It's back, the dreaded P1349. After over a month of freedom it returns.I have cleared the code just in case but it returns. Whats baffling is that it clearly works some times during a journey. Ive proved that with 12v direct to the OCV it works. To those move experienced with the VVT hub, can it stick or be sluggish ?
I fear i will have to change the hub unit. Thoughts anyone ?

It's all that's left to consider, I'm afraid. It's a mechanical device and therefore, can misbehave.