"Masie" Liquid Silver Turbo

Started by CodfishRick, September 18, 2019, 19:03

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CodfishRick

Quote from: Ardent on September 21, 2019, 17:10I feel sick looking at those pics.
Despite the much bigger issues, the kerbed rim would have sent me ballistic.

If I have my avatar names correct, you were at shin ding.

Is the car even useable right now?

The car is not useable right now. I am also concerned about damage to the block due to overheating, the car hasn't been able to start yet.

Not sure what you mean by "Shin ding" :)

CodfishRick

Chargecooler radiator mounted on 2 small rivets.

You cannot view this attachment.

This means the bottom is very loose and hits the radiator behind.


Oil leaking from around sump
You cannot view this attachment.



A mark has appeared that the mechanic described as "Looks like someones rubbed sandpaper on it".

I will get some images of the bodywork when I visit on Monday. Suffice to say it was immaculate apart from a dent on the driver's side and some stone chips.


shnazzle

Sweet jebus.... That's a hell of a list of critical issues. 
All sorted now?
...neutiquam erro.

Carolyn

Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:37Chargecooler radiator mounted on 2 small rivets.

You cannot view this attachment.

This means the bottom is very loose and hits the radiator behind.


Oil leaking from around sump
You cannot view this attachment.

That's coming from much higher up than the sump.


A mark has appeared that the mechanic described as "Looks like someones rubbed sandpaper on it".

I will get some images of the bodywork when I visit on Monday. Suffice to say it was immaculate apart from a dent on the driver's side and some stone chips.


Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

CodfishRick

Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 20:38Sweet jebus.... That's a hell of a list of critical issues.
All sorted now?
Still ongoing, going to be another week at least.

shnazzle

#30
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.

This is their list as of today:


Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded

Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray

Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.


- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.

- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...

- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?

- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.

About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
...neutiquam erro.

CodfishRick

Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.

This is their list as of today:


Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded

Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray

Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.


- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.

- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...

- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?

- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.

About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)

15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up. 

I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.

From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.

After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.

In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)

1979scotte

Why God would you use anything but fully synthetic oil?
It's 2019 ffs.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

shnazzle

Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 21:42
Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.

This is their list as of today:


Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded

Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray

Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.


- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.

- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...

- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?

- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.

About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)

15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up.

I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.

From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.

After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.

In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)
With the things to do yourself I meant like tightening the top mounts, straightening the bonnets, fixing clips etc. Don't want to be paying 40gbp per hour for those things. 

But then it's down to availability and time of course. 

Sounds like you've got the right approach now. As long as your head is in it
...neutiquam erro.

CodfishRick

Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 22:02
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 21:42
Quote from: shnazzle on September 21, 2019, 21:19
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 19:18I was very kindly offered help in sorting this all out from local motorsports team. Not something they would normally take on but they could see I was in a bind.

This is their list as of today:


Issues:
Charge cooler piping not correct (Kinked and broken pipe)
Several unplugged sensors (Oil temp/Pressure, unknown)
Damage to bodywork (Scratch on roof, scuff on door, kerbed wheel)
Missing Expansion tank for chargecooler (This has been discussed)
Fuel gauge acting strangely (Jumping, not accurate)
Differential not working correctly under torqued conditions
1st gear sticky/resistant
Front suspension not connected properly (Top mount loose)
Crankcase breather not disconnected (Boost pressure on breather from throttle body)
Bodywork missing clips/ Frunk area missing clips
Bodywork not mounted correctly
Chargecooler not mounted
Clutch not properly bled
Chargecooler not bled
Rear bonnet not aligned correctly
Engine cover missing clips and mounted incorrectly
Oil Cooler mounted loosely (Loose/missing bolts)
Oil cooler piping weeping at connections
Oil return sump fitting leaking
Air Filter not heat shielded or near cold air intake
Air filter mounted incorrectly (Loose, not pushed on enough)
15W 40 Mineral Oil in engine (Too thick)
Possible boost pressure on fuel line (To be investigated)
Front wheels misaligned (Tracking was done this year)
Engine soundproofing torn in several places (Missing clips/Torn)
Oil in/return to turbo cross threaded

Parts missing:
All parts of engine undertray "Nappy"
Exhaust heat shielding
Gearbox/Differential Undertray (Near and Offside)
Mid section Undertray

Having read it a bit closer... A few observations. Happy for others to call bullshit on my findings but, would hate to see you go through more trouble and costs.


- pcv not disconnected; I hope not! With boost you should have one-way valves installed to ensure that you're definitely not pressurising the block or trusting just the pcv to do so. But 100% definitely needs to be connected. That's just fundamental almost to how the engine works. Not to mention your brake servo.

- boost in fuel line; just not possible in my opinion. Fuel pressure is about 5x higher than any boost you're putting in,so you're about 35psi boost short of it being physically possible for boost to be pushed back up your injector. Unless you have one severely knackered and wide open injector. Even then...

- the undertrays they say you're missing make no sense. Near and offside gearbox/diff undertrays?

- how do they know its 15w40 oil? It could be, but, not the first thing you'd notice.
- diff not working correctly? How did they determine this? I'm not 100% sure on this but there's only one way to find out if the diff is doing its thing and your car doesn't seem like it's in any state to do that.

About 80% of that is resolved yourself with some simple tools.
So, yes, there's some glaring mechanical issues from your previous "installer" but don't let them fleece you for nothing.
The PCV valve IS disconnected and is just a straight pipe at the moment. (This may be what they are referring to)

15W 40 Mineral is what I have been told by the chap that fitted it is what's in it, I'm not really sure if its an issue but I will bring it up.

I think they mean the undertray that sits over the gearbox.

From what I have been told about the diff they seem to think its acting like its locked, will question this.

After my last experience I am questioning everything they are telling me, I don't think I'm being shafted as I know a chap in there, but im still being cautious.

In regards to solving myself, I would rather at this stage have it done properly than myself bodge it to work :)
With the things to do yourself I meant like tightening the top mounts, straightening the bonnets, fixing clips etc. Don't want to be paying 40gbp per hour for those things.

But then it's down to availability and time of course.

Sounds like you've got the right approach now. As long as your head is in it
Bodywork misalignment and the bonnet I can sort myself, as you say £40 an hour for some clips :)


The list is just everything they have identified, not everything they are sorting.

Carolyn

It's a Torque Sensing diff.  When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD.  You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.

The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak. 
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

CodfishRick

Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff.  When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD.  You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.

The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak. 
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.

Ardent

Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 22:27
Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff.  When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD.  You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.

The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak. 
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.
I would be inclined to "not" pass this on, initially, and use as a litmus test, do they know whats what, or phrase it, I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen..........

CodfishRick

Quote from: Ardent on September 21, 2019, 22:39
Quote from: CodfishRick on September 21, 2019, 22:27
Quote from: Carolyn on September 21, 2019, 22:23It's a Torque Sensing diff.  When jacked up, the car behaves as though it doesn't have an LSD.  You turn one wheel and the other doesn't (shouldn't) turn.

The oil leak looks like a classic long-term chain tensioner leak. 
Cheers Carolyn, I will pass this on.
I would be inclined to "not" pass this on, initially, and use as a litmus test, do they know whats what, or phrase it, I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen..........
Good point, I think I will use the " I understand it is a torque sensing diff, what would you expect to happen".

CodfishRick

Some Good news

I have the car back and ship-shape!

You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.
You cannot view this attachment.

New expansion tank for charge cooler loop (Off a crashed Ginetta G40)
You cannot view this attachment.


I still need to have a new exhaust made up as the one on the car is loaned, then go back to RRR to finish the map.

Its making 200+ish on 8.6 PSI at the moment.


I have edited the first post to reflect who did the original work.

Ardent

I'm glad you have.

To save everyone looking
Roadster sport Ltd.

Glad I've never heard of them.

Gaz2405

I've heard of them, they trade on ebay....
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

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