Engine removal hints andl tips?

[JB21]

So finally got a start with removing the engine. Got it up on ramps and securely chocked. Used @jvanzyl method of jacking the car up and placing the ramps under the wheels. Looking at it now with the bumper and wheels off it shouldn't be to bad of a job.

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[jvanzyl]

Can I patent it?? 

Glad it's going well, don't forget to leave some wheels underneath just incase a jack fails. Oh and don't forget the clear safety glasses... the amount of crud that will come out must not find a home in your eyes!

[Call the midlife!]

At what point did you put the timbers in the ramps? Just bear in mind if you lower the rear to drop the lump there's a chance you're going to be sitting the body onto those woods and there'll only be one winner if that happens.

[jvanzyl]

At what point did you put the timbers in the ramps? Just bear in mind if you lower the rear to drop the lump there's a chance you're going to be sitting the body onto those woods and there'll only be one winner if that happens.

I suspect the timbers are from an attempt to roll it up the ramps?
But yeah I'd remove them as a just in case...

[JB21]

Timbers just used to secure the car once it was in situ. Rear wont need to be lowered as my motorcycle jack will be raised to take the weight and lowered oncenof the mounts then the rear of the car will be raised with a crane to slide the engine out.

[JB21]

Anyone know a way how to remove the crankshaft pulley and bolt from the engine?

[Call the midlife!]

If you don't have the SST then a good go with an impact driver should rattle it off.

[JB21]

If you don't have the SST then a good go with an impact driver should rattle it off.

SST?

[Carolyn]

Anyone know a way how to remove the crankshaft pulley and bolt from the engine?
[/quot

Anyone know a way how to remove the crankshaft pulley and bolt from the engine?

SST - Special Service Tool.

Lock the crankshaft with a big screwdriver, using one of the gearbox locating pins and use a breaker bar on the bolt.

If the engine is still in the car, remove the plastic flywheel cover, lock with big screwdriver.....

Little old me done it many times that way.

[JB21]

Engine is now on a stand with flywheel removed so can't lock it from that side.

[Carolyn]

Take the sump off (worth having a peek anyway....)
Put a block of wood between the a crank counter-weight and the inside of the block. 

[Call the midlife!]

Wait until you come to refitting it, that's a real bundle of fun 😆

[JB21]

This should do the trick if the other suggestions above don't...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Pulley-Holder-Camshaft-Spread-Interchangeable-Pin-Fan-Clutch-Tool/193169581929?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Dd8017841dfe647b3956936355c2a6249%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323904478297%26itm%3D193169581929%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac51551c0-0615-11ea-b5d7-74dbd180df9b%7Cparentrq%3A64db2d0216e0a4e922b4b32bfff708d6%7Ciid%3A1

[JB21]

And it's out...

[JB21]

Just stripping the replacement engine to fit a new timing chain kit and gaskets/seals but can see a lot of old sealant around the timing cover, water pump, timing chain tensioner etc. I was under the impression that I only need small dab of RTV sealant where the blocks meet?

Also is there anymore gaskets or seals that need replacing whilst the timing cover is off?

I'm replacing:

Chain
Small crank cog
Timing chain tensioner
Chain guides
Timing cover gasket
Both water pump gaskets (side and front)
Crank seal (front and rear)

[Carolyn]

The best sealant for the job is Dirko Grey.  And it does need more than a thin smear.  I 3mm bead is about right.

The tensioner should not require sealant at all.  I'm pretty sure the 2zz has a slightly bigger tensioner than the 1zz, so there's little point in sending you my one of my special O rings!

I suggest you measure the O ring on the tensioner and order a Viton one (you might as well order a few 'cos they're so cheap) Order from 'Sealforce' on ebay.

The OEM Toyota item on the 1zz is pretty useless, so I'd avoid the Toyota item.  If you look carefully, you'll find an imperial size that is ever so slightly fatter in cross section.  They do give metric measurements for them.  The slightly fatter one is the way to go.

[househead]

Just stripping the replacement engine to fit a new timing chain kit and gaskets/seals but can see a lot of old sealant around the timing cover, water pump, timing chain tensioner etc. I was under the impression that I only need small dab of RTV sealant where the blocks meet?

I have a PDF which might be useful for you. PM your email address if you want it and I'll bung it across.

[JB21]

The best sealant for the job is Dirko Grey.  And it does need more than a thin smear.  I 3mm bead is about right.

The tensioner should not require sealant at all.  I'm pretty sure the 2zz has a slightly bigger tensioner than the 1zz, so there's little point in sending you my one of my special O rings!

I suggest you measure the O ring on the tensioner and order a Viton one (you might as well order a few 'cos they're so cheap) Order from 'Sealforce' on ebay.

The OEM Toyota item on the 1zz is pretty useless, so I'd avoid the Toyota item.  If you look carefully, you'll find an imperial size that is ever so slightly fatter in cross section.  They do give metric measurements for them.  The slightly fatter one is the way to go.

Thanks for the reply, I'll look into the bigger O-ring now as it does look a little flat and narrow on the new tensioner from Mag Engines.

Also just sealant where to blocks meet then? No need for it elsewhere within the timing cover area?

[Carolyn]

The best sealant for the job is Dirko Grey.  And it does need more than a thin smear.  I 3mm bead is about right.

The tensioner should not require sealant at all.  I'm pretty sure the 2zz has a slightly bigger tensioner than the 1zz, so there's little point in sending you my one of my special O rings!

I suggest you measure the O ring on the tensioner and order a Viton one (you might as well order a few 'cos they're so cheap) Order from 'Sealforce' on ebay.

The OEM Toyota item on the 1zz is pretty useless, so I'd avoid the Toyota item.  If you look carefully, you'll find an imperial size that is ever so slightly fatter in cross section.  They do give metric measurements for them.  The slightly fatter one is the way to go.

Thanks for the reply, I'll look into the bigger O-ring now as it does look a little flat and narrow on the new tensioner from Mag Engines.

Also just sealant where to blocks meet then? No need for it elsewhere within the timing cover area?

All the obvious sealing surfaces. The inside of the timing cover that represents where the water pump goes, is especially important (The almost circular face).  Now I think of it, the external water pump fixing seals with an O ring also and should not require sealant.  When you put the cover on, be ready with all clean and lightly lubed (WD) fasteners.  That includes installing the water pump and engine mount bracket, as they all contribute to sealing the timing cover. Once you start - crack on until every bolt is in place and nipped up.

[JB21]

Anyone make sense of this? Appendix b) Its saying apply seal packing to timing cover, but where? Makes no sense to me.

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[Carolyn]

Anyone make sense of this? Appendix b) Its saying apply seal packing to timing cover, but where? Makes no sense to me.

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By seal 'packing' they mean sealant.  Just put it where the diagram says....

[jvanzyl]

correct me if I'm wrong Carolyn, but you definitely DON'T want any sealant in the chain cover groove right?

[househead]

Anyone make sense of this? Appendix b) Its saying apply seal packing to timing cover, but where? Makes no sense to me.

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See I told you it was confusing!

I take it to mean that the thick black line in the picture is where the sealant should be. But I could well be wrong! The a-e bit I guess is just different distances from the edge(s)?

[Carolyn]

correct me if I'm wrong Carolyn, but you definitely DON'T want any sealant in the chain cover groove right?

No you don't.  That diagram is a little misleading....

[Call the midlife!]

Take your time and study it well, you can't go wrong, I put a thin guideline on with a Sharpie and followed that with the sealant.