Engine removal hints andl tips?

[JB21]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

[Carolyn]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

What gaskets?

[JB21]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

What gaskets?

Timing cover and water pump gaskets

[Carolyn]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

What gaskets?

Timing cover and water pump gaskets

You have gaskets?  On a 1zz it's purely metal to metal.... 

[Carolyn]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

What gaskets?

Timing cover and water pump gaskets

Were there gaskets present when you took the cover off?

[JB21]

I'm still confused. Surly I dont need to use sealant all the way around where the black lines are, that's where all the gaskets fit.

What gaskets?

Timing cover and water pump gaskets

Were there gaskets present when you took the cover off?

Indeed. I've just purchased new ones from Toyota. I'm now guessing those instructions are for the 1ZZ.

[Carolyn]

No.  That's definitely not a 1zz in your picture.

Actually..... it could be..... 

[JB21]

Items 2 and 3 in the picture

You cannot view this attachment.

[Carolyn]

Just checked my records.  That diagram is for the 1ZZ.  Ignore me, please.

[househead]

It sure should be for the 1zz, it came from Toyota and is from the service manual for the FL mk3

Edit, sorry thought you were referring to the first diagram, not the more recent one.

Ignore me too

[Call the midlife!]

I think the confusion lies in that the diagram with the dimensions and location for sealant relates to the 1zz engine whereas the gasket belongs on the 2zz engine. So depending which one you're currently rebuilding...

[JB21]

Cleaned up and swapped over the cams, rockers, rocker shafts and cam caps from the low mileage blown 2zz to the higher mileage replacement. Also gave the head a clean up whilst everything was out.

From this..

You cannot view this attachment.

To this..

You cannot view this attachment.

I then cleaned up the timing side, ready for the new chain, guides, tensioner, crank cog and gaskets.

You cannot view this attachment.

[Call the midlife!]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

[JB21]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

Just picked up a set of feeler gauges to see.

[Call the midlife!]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

Just picked up a set of feeler gauges to see.

It's easier with two sets, trust me 😂. I've got two sets but split them up and just keep the most used ones in a separate plastic bag, saves having to constantly fiddle around to make up the sizes.

[JB21]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

Just picked up a set of feeler gauges to see.

It's easier with two sets, trust me 😂. I've got two sets but split them up and just keep the most used ones in a separate plastic bag, saves having to constantly fiddle around to make up the sizes.

Quick question on rotating the cams currently set in timing position with the chain off. Presume I just need to rotate each individual cam 180 degrees to get the pair of readings along the cam with no need to rotate the crank which is set current at No1 cylinder TDC?

[Call the midlife!]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

Just picked up a set of feeler gauges to see.

It's easier with two sets, trust me 😂. I've got two sets but split them up and just keep the most used ones in a separate plastic bag, saves having to constantly fiddle around to make up the sizes.

Quick question on rotating the cams currently set in timing position with the chain off. Presume I just need to rotate each individual cam 180 degrees to get the pair of readings along the cam with no need to rotate the crank which is set current at No1 cylinder TDC?

That's correct, until you put the chain on you can turn the cams at will to set the optimum positions for checking the gaps. I'd rotate the crank to put the pistons in a "safe" position before turning the cams though, make sure you've got clearance for the valves when you open them.

[JB21]

Nice and clean that, have you been able to get away with putting the cams etc in the different head and still maintain decent valve lash clearances?

Just picked up a set of feeler gauges to see.

It's easier with two sets, trust me 😂. I've got two sets but split them up and just keep the most used ones in a separate plastic bag, saves having to constantly fiddle around to make up the sizes.

Quick question on rotating the cams currently set in timing position with the chain off. Presume I just need to rotate each individual cam 180 degrees to get the pair of readings along the cam with no need to rotate the crank which is set current at No1 cylinder TDC?

That's correct, until you put the chain on you can turn the cams at will to set the optimum positions for checking the gaps. I'd rotate the crank to put the pistons in a "safe" position before turning the cams though, make sure you've got clearance for the valves when you open them.

Exactly what I was thinking mate. Just a quarter turn should suffice I think just to lower the pistons in cylinder 1 and 4?

[JB21]

Oh dear,look at the state of the billet (if they are actually billet from Rogue?) gearset from the blown 2zz.

You cannot view this attachment.

It wasn't moving freely at all when I pulled it, in fact it was partly seized.

I'm presuming the shards from the blown bottom end has caused the scoring.

Anyway I've opened up the other pump and the gearset seems fine and rotates smoothly so I've cleaned it up and I'm going to use that on the replacment engine.

You cannot view this attachment.