Fitting anti-flex plate question

[mrsmr2]

I've received my Corky anti-flex plate and have these instructions.  They mention torque wrench settings.

I only have a basic socket set and cannot set the amount of torque.

Will I be OK just tightening them as much as I can with the socket set?  

Thanks

Jason

[Peter Wright]

Will I be OK just tightening them as much as I can with the socket set?  

No mention of torqe settings on my instructions for Corkeys plate
Just follow these (forgot who wrote them)

The plate is easy to install if you note the following:

1. 12mm socket for existing screws, 13mm for new ones

2. After removing the existing hardware, remove the hoseclip from the hose and push into the Corky plate before offering up to the car.

3. Make sure the C of the plastic clamp has the opening pointing away from you.

4. Of the screws to be attached adjacent to the clamp, loosley attach the plate by the one that isopposite the opening in the clamp.

5. The plate can now be rotated about the single screw you have loosley installed so that the clamp slides over the hose.

6. Install all of the remaining screws with just a few turns to assit alignment of all screws and holes.

7. Tighten all screws securely.

[mrsmr2]

Cheers for that.

I've been searching and have found some instructions written by Grant.  They are very, very similar to those above but they also mention the same torque settings as in the link I posted.

Just worried they might come loose and fall out.

Jason

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't worry too much, just tighten it good and tight. Just make sure you don't overtighten and strip the threads. My OEM bracing was loose when I removed it to fit Corky's.

[Anonymous]

28lb/ft is "tightish", but not "as tight as you can get it", if that makes sense. Of course, it depends on the length of your socket wrench too; assuming it's a small set, with a short ratchet, then that's "reasonably tightish"; reduce the level of "tightness" for longer wrenches   s:P s:P  

Torque wrenches can be had for ~£15 in Argos, Machine Mart (and possibly others) - not the best quality, but more accurate than not having one at all. If you intend carrying out even modest work on your car, then I'd recommend one. At least you'll even be able to do up the wheel nuts more correctly than the average KwikFit fitter.

[Anonymous]

When modifying the MR2, I think it's important to attempt to maintain or improve the level of quality and reliability with which the vehicle has been built. A torque wrench is a very good tool to have. I've purchased two of them - one a 10 - 60 ft. lb. model, the other a 40 - 200 ft. lb. version. These are "click-type" wrenches and the reason for getting two is that they tend to read best at the middle ranges of their calibers.

These tools allow you to achieve shop-grade results and avoid stripping threads. I followed the iMR2 instructions as well and got Corky's to about 28 ft-lbs. By hand, I'd say these are "good and snug."

[mrsmr2]

Well it's on.

Borrowed a torque wrench but unfortunately it did not fit my sockets  s:( s:(  

I relied on feel and tightened them close to the original braces.

I would recommend putting the car on ramps as it would be fiddly to do without.  Especially removing and re-fitting the pipe clamps.

Too much red wine today so no chance to test it.

Still, have 110 miles to work tomorrow  s:D s:D

[Anonymous]

You would be welcome to use my torque wrench if you are ever in Sutton Coldfield

[Anonymous]

Or, I could bring it to Bruntingthorpe

[mrsmr2]

Thanks Steve, might take you up on it for Brunters - assuming it's not fallen off by then  s:D s:D  

BTW, thanks because I wouldn't have got one if you hadn't started setting up the group buy over here.

Regards

Jason

PS tea and biscuits still on at my place for anyone wanting a break before driving home from Bruntingthorpe.

[heathstimpson]

Noticed that the Corky plate in the linked right up is of a different design to mine; has he updated it  s:?: :?: s:?:

[SimonC_Here]

Noticed that the Corky plate in the linked right up is of a different design to mine; has he updated it  s:?: :?: s:?:

The link at the top of the thread is to iMR2's plate.

Corky's is rectangular with a big cross through the middle.

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Ah ASCII art!

Simon

[Liz]

Even sadder - taken whilst my car had its MOT!

[Tem]

Yikes! Rust! *runs away*  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

[heathstimpson]

Those bolts look rather rusty Liz; swop the Toyota cheapies for some nice stainless ones  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[kanujunkie]

looks like the plates started rusting as well, take it all off, re-protect the plate and replace the bolts, before its too late  s:? :? s:?

[Anonymous]

looks like the plates started rusting as well,

It's alloy plate.  It just goes white and powdery.

[GSB]

Noticed that the Corky plate in the linked right up is of a different design to mine; has he updated it  s:?: :?: s:?:

There are several different versions, all do the same thing...

Heres mine:



For what its worth, I had no problem whatsoever installing this on my car without lifting it. It takes about 10 minutes.  Also, my car has aircon, so there are more pipes to clip in, and its lowered by 30mm on TTE springs. No problems at all.

[kanujunkie]

looks like the plates started rusting as well,

It's alloy plate.  It just goes white and powdery.

i know that, the white powdery stuff is alluminium oxide or RUST!

[Tem]

Heres mine:

That's not yours, that's mine!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Did you get that from the (now gone) MR2-Roadster site? Or what was it called anyway...

[heathstimpson]

Who's plate design is that Grant; yourself by any chance  s:?: :?: s:?:

[GSB]

looks like the plates started rusting as well,

It's alloy plate.  It just goes white and powdery.

i know that, the white powdery stuff is alluminium oxide or RUST!

The thing that prevents aluminium from corroding in air, is that within seconds of it being scratched, machined or filed, it develops a thin coating of aluminiuim oxide. This effectively seals the parent metal and prevents further oxidisation. Thats why you dont need to paint aluminium. Its inherently self protecting.

Who's plate design is that Grant; yourself by any chance  s:?: :?: s:?:

I bought it from Phil Dye, when he moved over to the dark side a couple of years ago... It was designed by SC member "Stingerbrty", who has since moved on to S2000 ownership.

[Liz]

Soooooo...its not rusty then, I couldn't see any on the plate, the bolts are the one which was supplied with it  s:? :? s:?

[kanujunkie]

looks like the plates started rusting as well,

It's alloy plate.  It just goes white and powdery.

i know that, the white powdery stuff is alluminium oxide or RUST!

The thing that prevents aluminium from corroding in air, is that within seconds of it being scratched, machined or filed, it develops a thin coating of aluminiuim oxide. This effectively seals the parent metal and prevents further oxidisation. Thats why you dont need to paint aluminium. Its inherently self protecting.

thats rubbish, try telling that to the people on the Aloha 737 who died after corrosion ended up making there plane a convertable, all our planes at work are painted to protect them from corrosion forming, we chemically etch the metal first and then paint them to create a longer lasting finnish, a scratch in ally does not seal itself, it just starts off a chain reaction of corrosion

[Anonymous]

 m http://www.c-a-b.org.uk/public/alumin.htm m

*ducks out and runs at this point*