Valve Stem seal job?

[thetyrant]

I have oil weeping on oil stem seals so they need changing if i keep this engine, anyone done them keeping the 1zz in the car before ?

Was doing some searching and found below thread and info on SC which is good and got me hopeful i could do it in situ using the valvemaster type tool, but it would have to come over from states, page 2 shows the guy using rope in cylinder method so you can do without removing head which is a neat trick ive not heard of for years!

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/replacing-the-valve-oil-seals.38510/

[Call the midlife!]

I've personally removed and checked valve springs and replaced buckets on one cylinder using the in situ method with a length of string etc but it's quite a leap of faith/educated guesswork that you've got enough to stop the valves falling into the cylinder.
Bearing in mind you need to pull the original seals and tap the new ones home quite firmly I'd be inclined to pull the head off and do them on the bench.
You'll need a new head gasket obviously and probably some head bolts but depends how confident you are you won't drop a valve 😂

[JB21]

Could you not just set cylinder 1 and 4 at TDC change them then same on cylinders 3 and 4?

[Carolyn]

I've done all four cylinders.  The string method was one recommended by myself, though I did mine by introducing compressed air via the spark plug hole.  The string method works fine, though.

You do need a special tool to compress the springs - especially on the inlet side, as the space above the valve is limited. I made one and lent it to a couple of members, 'Midlife' being one of them.

[thetyrant]

I've personally removed and checked valve springs and replaced buckets on one cylinder using the in situ method with a length of string etc but it's quite a leap of faith/educated guesswork that you've got enough to stop the valves falling into the cylinder.
Bearing in mind you need to pull the original seals and tap the new ones home quite firmly I'd be inclined to pull the head off and do them on the bench.
You'll need a new head gasket obviously and probably some head bolts but depends how confident you are you won't drop a valve 😂

Thanks for the insight much appreciated, as you say bit of a risk trying the rope in cylinder method as you cant see if you have enough in there to hold the valve up but might be only way for me, if i have to pull the head then i will pull the whole engine and fit a 2zz lol  getting the head off with engine in car looks practicall impossible ?

[thetyrant]

Could you not just set cylinder 1 and 4 at TDC change them then same on cylinders 3 and 4?

Yes thats it you have piston about half way down its stroke then fill cylinder with rope and bring piston back up so rope holds valves in....hopefully!  change all 4 guide seals on that cylinder and move onto next.

[thetyrant]

I've done all four cylinders.  The string method was one recommended by myself, though I did mine by introducing compressed air via the spark plug hole.  The string method works fine, though.

You do need a special tool to compress the springs - especially on the inlet side, as the space above the valve is limited. I made one and lent it to a couple of members, 'Midlife' being one of them.

Good to hear you have done it this way thanks for info, i might be in touch for a loan/hire of that tool if still available ?

[thetyrant]

For those that havent seen pics on my turbo thread below is the pics of each set of exhaust valves...

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[kwnelson]

Carolyn sort of took the wind out of my sails when she mentioned "introducing air" into the cylinders,  this was an old indian trick from way back.  Compressed air is introduced into the cylinder head by means of an adapter through the plug hole with the piston being positioned TDC, valves being held closed by the compressed   
air, thus enabling the seals to be replaced. particularly with engines in the right place where access is restricted.  Go for it Tyrant!

[thetyrant]

Carolyn sort of took the wind out of my sails when she mentioned "introducing air" into the cylinders,  this was an old indian trick from way back.  Compressed air is introduced into the cylinder head by means of an adapter through the plug hole with the piston being positioned TDC, valves being held closed by the compressed   
air, thus enabling the seals to be replaced. particularly with engines in the right place where access is restricted.  Go for it Tyrant!

Yes ive thought about the air in cylinder method which ive seen used before, however i dont have a compressor and while i can borrow a small one from work i wouldnt trust it for this job, i will probably tackle the job but use the rope in cylinder method if i do just need to find some suitable material!, looking like another 3weeks off work for me so will have to find something to fill my time!

[Jay]

Just on the suitable material front - I've heard of some folk using silicone vacuum hose instead of rope to save time. 

Might be worth a shot.

[thetyrant]

Just on the suitable material front - I've heard of some folk using silicone vacuum hose instead of rope to save time. 

Might be worth a shot.

Yes ive heard that as well, might get a plug out and see what i can feed most of in there

[thetyrant]

OK tackling this job today using guide i linked on 1st post in thread... got a new Toyota valve cover gasket from Steve @ GT4play, new seals and custom spring compressor from Carolyn (donation on way to club later today now ive been paid ) and a set of valve seal removal pliers from Ebay so time to get cracking.

Few pictures of progress so far for those that havent seen inside the valve cover on a 1zz...

1-  Before i started
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2- External parts like coils removed.
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3- Cover removed
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4- Cam Caps removed in correct order
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5- Time to get brave!  cams removed, chain supported on Bungee although ive read it cant come off crank due to casing ? im being extra safe though!
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6- Buckets removed..
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Time for lunch and work out how well i can get rope into cylinder, so far tried 2 different types and thicker one seems better, got around 2 metres into bore when at bottom of stroke then rotated crank to lift piston to quish it into head chamber/valves etc, can still move valve a little so maybe redo it again to be sure, lunch first then back to it!

[Call the midlife!]

I'm sure you've already done this but I taped the end inch or so of rope up to stop fibres coming off and I could "feel" it touch the piston.
If I'd known you were going to be doing it I could've sent you my pliers and seal seating kit to borrow, rather than having to buy new.
Although the return postage costs would probably have been the same as the price of the tools and at least you've got them now, for next time...

[thetyrant]

I'm sure you've already done this but I taped the end inch or so of rope up to stop fibres coming off and I could "feel" it touch the piston.
If I'd known you were going to be doing it I could've sent you my pliers and seal seating kit to borrow, rather than having to buy new.
Although the return postage costs would probably have been the same as the price of the tools and at least you've got them now, for next time...

Yes i melted the ends of the rope to stop fraying and tied a knot in other end just to be sure, i just need to get brave now and get springs off so i can change seals!   yes postage would probably have cost more than tools but thanks for considering it

[Call the midlife!]

I think we've already covered this but grease on the end of your collet removal pick is good, they're specialists for escaping.
When it comes to pulling the stem seals wear decent gloves and pad the underside of the engine lid and DON'T hit yourself in the face with the pliers everytime they pull off 😆
Best of luck...👍🏻

[thetyrant]

I think we've already covered this but grease on the end of your collet removal pick is good, they're specialists for escaping.
When it comes to pulling the stem seals wear decent gloves and pad the underside of the engine lid and DON'T hit yourself in the face with the pliers everytime they pull off 😆
Best of luck...👍🏻

Using magnet and grease etc but refitting 1st one i lost 1 keeper!, they came out ok with magnet but going back in pinged off and went down into sump, which in schoolboy error i hadnt covered   got a spare coming from C and i will drop oil and try and fish it out with magnet, dont really want to remove my sump as just fitted a new one but will if i have to.

2nd exh one went ok with different technique so hopefully rest do as well!

2 exh seals done came off quite easy and hole is well stretched compared to new ones!...onto 2 inlets on that cylinder now which is as far as i can go till keeper arrives

[Carolyn]

I think we've already covered this but grease on the end of your collet removal pick is good, they're specialists for escaping.
When it comes to pulling the stem seals wear decent gloves and pad the underside of the engine lid and DON'T hit yourself in the face with the pliers everytime they pull off 😆
Best of luck...👍🏻

Using magnet and grease etc but refitting 1st one i lost 1 keeper!, they came out ok with magnet but going back in pinged off and went down into sump, which in schoolboy error i hadnt covered   got a spare coming from C and i will drop oil and try and fish it out with magnet, dont really want to remove my sump as just fitted a new one but will if i have to.

2nd exh one went ok with different technique so hopefully rest do as well!

2 exh seals done came off quite easy and hole is well stretched compared to new ones!...onto 2 inlets on that cylinder now which is as far as i can go till keeper arrives

Two collets in the post.  I wouldn't worry about one sitting in the bottom of the sump.  It's pretty safe where it is.  Not likely to cause a problem there.  Neat little tool isn't it?

[thetyrant]

Two collets in the post.  I wouldn't worry about one sitting in the bottom of the sump.  It's pretty safe where it is.  Not likely to cause a problem there.  Neat little tool isn't it?

Thanks again you have been brilliant with all this

Tool is excellent invention

[thetyrant]

Ok 1 Cylinder all seals completed and 3 out of the 4 springs back on, just waiting on the collet keeper from C then i can get that final spring on and move along to next cylinder, happy enough with progress today and refined my technique by the last one and took very little time to complete

Interestingly both the exhaust seals pulled off really easily, inlet were a LOT more stubborn and off course access/angle isnt as good either which makes it worse, but they were much tighter onto valve guide than exh which needed very little force to pull off!  no doubt the extra heat on exhaust side has degraded the rubber inside the cup.

Few more pics...

Carolyns special spring compressor in action!...nice bit of kit
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1st spring off and you can see the valve seal now.
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New and old Exhaust side valve stems seals, look at that slack alice on left!...no wonder we have leakage.
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All done for today back at it once i have the parts.

[Call the midlife!]

All good stuff! If you stick a strong magnet on the sump plug you might find it on your next oil change but as Carolynne says as long as it's in the sump it won't get past the pickup strainer anyway.

[shnazzle]

Ok 1 Cylinder all seals completed and 3 out of the 4 springs back on, just waiting on the collet keeper from C then i can get that final spring on and move along to next cylinder, happy enough with progress today and refined my technique by the last one and took very little time to complete

Interestingly both the exhaust seals pulled off really easily, inlet were a LOT more stubborn and off course access/angle isnt as good either which makes it worse, but they were much tighter onto valve guide than exh which needed very little force to pull off!  no doubt the extra heat on exhaust side has degraded the rubber inside the cup.

Few more pics...

Carolyns special spring compressor in action!...nice bit of kit
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1st spring off and you can see the valve seal now.
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New and old Exhaust side valve stems seals, look at that slack alice on left!...no wonder we have leakage.
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All done for today back at it once i have the parts.

Great pics and reporting. Thanks! 

Also,.. Wow.. The slack on those seals.. That's unreal.
Want to do mine now

[Ardent]

@thetyrant

out of interest, what miles on that engine?

[Call the midlife!]

@thetyrant

out of interest, what miles on that engine?

I'm sure it says 105k on another thread?

[Ardent]

@Call the midlife!
appreciated.
Ok for a bit then if that's the case