Hand Brake cable change

[Newbie57]

Looks like my off side hand brake cable is toast. It moves but with too much stiction for the spring to return.
Any advice on cables, dropping the tank etc.
From what I have seen you don't need to fully disconnect the fuel pump.

I'd have to do it on stands. Can you do it just lifting the back end or do I need to lift on 4?

Surprising as this all started with the near side locking up

[Gaz mr-s]

Is the rubber gaiter at the end intact or 'gone'?

[Newbie57]

It was gone I bought some replacements

[Carolyn]

Looks like my off side hand brake cable is toast. It moves but with too much stiction for the spring to return.
Any advice on cables, dropping the tank etc.
From what I have seen you don't need to fully disconnect the fuel pump.

I'd have to do it on stands. Can you do it just lifting the back end or do I need to lift on 4?

Surprising as this all started with the near side locking up

I'd want as much working room as possible, though you only need to drop the tank about four inches.

However, you could try disconnecting the cables at both ends and first dribbling WD or equivalent down and working the cable back and forth and then following up with light machine oil (like 3 in 1).  I've rescued a couple like that.  Mind you it's not as good as new cables..as old stiff ones are often a bit stretched.

[Gaz mr-s]

However, you could try disconnecting the cables at both ends and first dribbling WD or equivalent down and working the cable back and forth and then following up with light machine oil (like 3 in 1).  I've rescued a couple like that.  Mind you it's not as good as new cables..as old stiff ones are often a bit stretched.

I was going to suggest too. I'll add drop the cable ends down to the ground, you might get yuk coming out.

[Newbie57]

In the process of trying the oil. I'm not hopeful. T bar returns unevenly. If I give  it a push the cable goes back. Have considered adding a couple of springs ant the handbrake end to force it back

[Gaz mr-s]

If you're going to try to get oil down them disconnect the inside end & raise it vertically. I held mine up with cable ties. If you have an assistant work them from either end.

[Ardent]

Appreciate this is a piece of string question.

But any ideas on how long it may take for the oil to make its way along. Appreciate the hand brake end needs disconnecting and raising, but fairly flat after that. I imagine talking hours rather mintues. Any ideas how much to squib in. 10, 20, 50ml

[Gaz mr-s]

pfff.....no idea quantity-wise. It's more dependent on how blocked the cable is.  It flows down the cable quite easily. 

Dick Sloan found grit 15" up a cable.

[Ardent]

Not good.

[Carolyn]

Appreciate this is a piece of string question.

But any ideas on how long it may take for the oil to make its way along. Appreciate the hand brake end needs disconnecting and raising, but fairly flat after that. I imagine talking hours rather mintues. Any ideas how much to squib in. 10, 20, 50ml

If you're lubing from the top, it's best to let the other end dangle down.

[Ardent]

Might have a go with that.
Preventative as much as anything.

[Joesson]

Appreciate this is a piece of string question.

But any ideas on how long it may take for the oil to make its way along. Appreciate the hand brake end needs disconnecting and raising, but fairly flat after that. I imagine talking hours rather mintues. Any ideas how much to squib in. 10, 20, 50ml

Assuming the cable is undamaged then it would be impossible to overfill. As @Carolyn suggested the WD40 or similar would tend to clean the sleeve and cable, the subsequent lubricant would be partially retained. Raising the inner end with a" piece of string "tied to the hood frame and the other end into a catch pot of some
sort until it runs free would be my "method" for both treatments.
I would also give the cable a good in out jiggle to help it all along.

[Newbie57]

What I have tried is disconnecting the cable. Propping the inside end up. Create a funnel so I can reservoir oil that's sealed as best I can round the cable and get some head on the oil to aid flow. Going to leave this for a few days.
There are some neat cable Oiler's for motorcycle cables that allow the pressure from the aerosol to force the oil down the cable but I'm not sure they will fit the Mr2 cable Motion Pro V3

[Gaz mr-s]

I didn't go to as much effort as that, I found the the oil 'cupped' at the cable top & ran down easily. But maybe if yours are difficult to move that won't work as easily.
Apart from saving hassle & money, it'll be satisfying if you can save them.  Good luck.

[Newbie57]

Where we are today. With the cable disconnected at the handbrake end the spring will snap shut. Once the cable is attached to the handbrake the more tension applied the more sticky the cable becomes.
Disconnected both ends I can move the cable in & out easily

[Gaz mr-s]

Did you get oil to pass down to the handbrake end?   
Any sign of outer cable damage?  I've seen one that was cut where the outer is mounted. A bit of reinforcement that stopped it bending sharply helped a lot.

Clevis pin moving freely in the lever?

[Newbie57]

If the oil got fully through it was difficult to tell. A lot went in.
Can't see any damage to the cable.
Toyota spares a £90 each😧
Probably get my local garage to do it. I can strip the car down ready. They can drop the tank and do the change.
Irritating that I can't use the car in the good weather now we are allowed out

[tricky1138]

Where we are today. With the cable disconnected at the handbrake end the spring will snap shut. Once the cable is attached to the handbrake the more tension applied the more sticky the cable becomes.
Disconnected both ends I can move the cable in & out easily

If the cable is moving and the spring at the handbrake end snaps shut have you checked the caliper itself? They do fail too. Worth checking that before replacing cables.

Oh and if you do need cables. Try TCB. Think they were half the price from Toyota.

[Newbie57]

Brand new callipers zero miles on them. The springs good. It will pull the cable as long as I don't connect the hand break end and put tension on the cable.

[Ardent]

Curious.
Total straw clutching.
But
How many clicks on the hand brake?
Might the link cable need backing off a bit.

[Gaz mr-s]

If the oil got fully through it was difficult to tell. A lot went in.

You should have got 'stuff' dirty water maybe & then the oil at the brakes end, - if you had the ends of the cables dropped down onto the ground.  Did you do that?

[Newbie57]

Cables are on the ground nothing really came out and I put quite a lot in
Was there a change in the brake cables at facelifts?

[Gaz mr-s]

It may not make an improvement, but I'd put more oil down, it should travel to the ends.

[Carolyn]

Did you do WD40 before you went for the oil?  I did one that took a massive amount of working back and forth with WD before it really ran through the jacket.

Go for the oil only when it's as loose as a floppy thing.