2001 Blue

[Joesson]

I wonder what the purpose of the OE manifold heat shield is?

[panderoo]

You would guess it's to deflect heat and stop paint issues maybe ?

[Joesson]

No brackets for anything.

Looks like I could be better leaving the wrap off ??

"Looks like"
It is nice and shiny when new but it will be "heat treated" in use and turn various " temper" colours as it happens. Dependent upon the iron/ chromium and nickel content of the stainless it may then show signs of "rusting".
Heat wrap, I believe, according to quality, will cover that up and retain the wrapped appearance for longer and of course retain the heat.
NB. It must be easier to wrap the manifold before fitting it so best decide prior.

[Joesson]

Seldom, if ever, mentioned about the fitting of after market manifold and/ or exhaust "system" is the declaration of modification for insurance purposes.
While the Forum's official line I believe is that any modification is declared, I wonder what effect this particular modification/ replacement of an item with potentially detrimental effect to the engine has on the premium paid?

[panderoo]

I'm not one to keep things from insurance, but I wont be wasting my time telling them about the manifold.

I can imagine the conversation about having fitted a manifold and them 100% not having a clue what I'm talking about.

If it causes the car to set on fire, I wont claim.

[shnazzle]

Empty pre-cat chambers = big low pressure zone = shortening of exhaust runners = less low torque and a blockage at higher rpm, reducing top end. The top end part was a lot more noticeable. Bottom end not so much

Wrapping = definitely makes it louder. Original heat shields to keep heat in and aid in warming the cats as quickly as possible, while keeping the engine bay cooler. Wrapping same effect. All I will say is that I had my Zero Manifold on without wrapping, into 200cell sports cat which was wrapped and it felt noticeably "torquier" than stock manifold.
Recently I've wrapped it. Same setup. It's made a big difference in noise, it sounds deeper as well, and it's again 100% for sure made even more of a performance improvement.
In conclusion... Wrap it. If it breaks. Get another one

As for insurance; I even declared the sticker on my rear window so.... Not taking any chances.

[panderoo]

Looks like i'll be making a mess of applying heat wrap tonight after all.

May as well since i have already bought the wrap i guess.

[panderoo]

In other news.. looks like it could be turning into a project 

Upper heat shield off.. oil down the right side so looks like a tensioner seal required.

[panderoo]

Then, things went from bad to worse.

Thought I would check if the subframe bolts were seized or not with a view to a light refurb of the arms and sheared a bolt.

[panderoo]

Then after poking around what looked like small surface rust..

A big hole.

Replacement subframe incoming.

[shnazzle]

Then after poking around what looked like small surface rust..

A big hole.

Replacement subframe incoming.

Excellent catch. Well done for checking all the hotspots. 

That subframe is terminal.
Oil leak is "normal" and easily fixed. You'll have this thing up and running better than ever soon  
Given the size of that subframe hole, you will actually notice a difference in handling when you get the new one

[panderoo]

That's my thoughts, glad it was spotted sooner than later.

Easy fix with a replacement Subframe and it will be back better than before.

The rest of the car is very clean so I'm still happy.

Has anyone looked into drilling small drain holes at the lowest points of the subframe before ?

Just wonder if it's possible to let moisture out without effecting the structural integrity ?

[Ardent]

A lot go for coating the inside with the likes of dynaxs50 or sim. Coat or two of smooth right on the outside.

I know Carolyn sealed hers completely so moisture could not get in.

When you order. Remember to order the right pfl and fl are different.
Caveat. I believe a fl can be used on pfl but not vise versa

[Carolyn]

The sub-frames do have small drain holes, under the suspension mounting brackets  They get blocked up by road crud getting in the top corners.

It's a build-up of road salts that really does the damage.

I treat the inside and seal it up.

[panderoo]

I've bought an apparently good used rear beam and ordered some s50 and some Electrox to coat the Exterior.

And then a can of Raptor 2K to give a little extra protection.

Hopefully that holds the tin worm back for a while.

If it goes again, I'll just order a new one, but hopefully it's not something I need to worry about for a while.

[panderoo]

I'll just have to make sure I do a better jet washing job than the Previous owners I guess and keep my fingers crossed.

[panderoo]

Clearly I'm not an exhaust wrapper.

It's done though.

[shnazzle]

That's very tidy. THose are so much easier to wrap than the Zero.
Once my wrap comes off i think it'll just get sent off for ceramic coating. Not doing that again.

[tricky1138]

Clearly I'm not an exhaust wrapper.

It's done though.

Looks better than my attempt! Well done.

[panderoo]

Busy day today..

Manifold on.

Chain tensioner replaced and fitted with BS212.

Rear suspension removed & quick waft of black paint/tein springs on

Front suspension removed & replaced with new dampers and front springs

All rear arms removed & painted

Callipers painted.

[panderoo]

 

[panderoo]

Had to cut the old subframe to get the arm out which wasn't fun, but at least it'll be sorted now.


Hopefully the replacement subframe will be with me early next week so I can get it blasted and painted back up.

[shnazzle]

Great progress
Well done!

[Joesson]

Great progress
Well done!

Indeed.

[Ardent]

is that your own lift?