'00 track car

[AJRFulton]

Yeah I'm deeply concerned. I'm not taking the result in terms of numbers too seriously - eBay kit, cold engine, new block, not run in, etc, etc. That test kit was only ever bought for indication. However I have turned the engine over with the gun a few dozen times. It's making no difference.

However on face value, I can actually feel air blowing out of the dipstick when testing on all 4 cylinders, as well as physically hear it coming past. That doesn't seem right, so don't really want to continue the build.

It's a waste of 10-12hrs of time and a new comotec head gasket right enough - not to mention with my season starting in 7 weeks I'm not making it.

[JB21]

Yeah I'm deeply concerned. I'm not taking the result in terms of numbers too seriously - eBay kit, cold engine, new block, not run in, etc, etc. That test kit was only ever bought for indication. However I have turned the engine over with the gun a few dozen times. It's making no difference.

However on face value, I can actually feel air blowing out of the dipstick when testing on all 4 cylinders, as well as physically hear it coming past. That doesn't seem right, so don't really want to continue the build.

It's a waste of 10-12hrs of time and a new comotec head gasket right enough - not to mention with my season starting in 7 weeks I'm not making it.

Absolute nightmare mate. If any good Ive got 2 spare engines here. Both with bottom end rod knock but both have working heads, one is a 70k mile unit without cams, caps, chain etc the other is a fully sealed 155k engine with the 70k mile cams, caps, chain etc fitted. I was still able to drive both engines before removal so neither has seized.

[AJRFulton]

Absolute nightmare mate. If any good Ive got 2 spare engines here. Both with bottom end rod knock but both have working heads, one is a 70k mile unit without cams, caps, chain etc the other is a fully sealed 155k engine with the 70k mile cams, caps, chain etc fitted. I was still able to drive both engines before removal so neither has seized.

That is an option Phil. Thank you.

I've a balanced and re-ground crank spare (from when I planned going sleeved), as well as +.25 bearings, so if the engine seals it would just be a case of replace the Conrods if it has heat damage, and switch the crank over. Switch heads as well.

Yeah going that route I'd be losing some midrange torque and response with lower compression and heavier rods+pistons, but main gains are from the built head which I have anyway.

If the offer stands I'll let you know in the next day or two - as obviously need to sort this.

Becoming a bit tired of all this.

Original 2ZZ - failed

Tried a replacement 2ZZ - failed

Tried another replacement 2ZZ - failed

Rebuilt that, put new OEM valves + springs + retainers in - OEM valve failed after 200-300 miles

Went for a total rebuild last year - new OEM injector failed, scored the block - failed (although partly my fault as kept going instead of retiring car)

So.... Went for a professionally built block - failed before it was even built.

The last 30mths have been hard going. Ratio of effort to fun isn't good. Since the first engine failed I've did what, 120-150 laps?

Definitely been character building.

[Alex Knight]

Can I make a suggestion?

But a Celica or Corolla T-Sport.

Drive it around for a few weeks/months. Gauge the condition of the engine.

If it's good (choose your car carefully), then whip out the engine and plop it in.

If you continue to blow engines, then to me that's indicative of something in the setup in the MR2, rather than something inherently wrong with the engine.

That's what I did in 2013. Zero issues in 9 years and 45,000 miles.

It won't help the short term, but it just might help the long term 👍🏼

[AJRFulton]

On an unrelated note ..... Mrs Fulton got my helmet painted. Which sounds like a euphemism.



Even includes a deliberate mistake.

As for engine.... happy with resolution that is playing out - will give    or    based on how it pans out but it will mean a bit of not much happening.

[AJRFulton]

I'll simply put that image here, and give a report in about a week.

I need to before installing

- Rip out old loom, put in new loom
- Replace gear linkage
- Remove old extinguisher system and install the new extinguisher system to comply with 2022 regs

[Petrus]

I'll simply put that image here, and give a report in about a week.

Whishing you luck.
You sure need a positive note after all the bad ones.

[AJRFulton]

Other than a sympathetic MOT tester.

Any easy solution to making an Hydraulic Fly Off Handbrake road legal? I installed it as it's fantastic for race starts..... But obviously cannot ratchet. Other issue is my rear brakes are AP Racing brakes off the front of an Elise, so no mechanism for a mechanical handbrake.

Would like to MOT car purely for for convenience. Saves trailering it on short trips from where I store it, to where I work on it (about 1.5 miles apart). Will never do anymore than 50-100 miles or so a year in it.

[AJRFulton]

Haven't seen the car since November, but brought it back to the workshop. Cats seemed to like walking over it whilst it's been stored... It's filthy.

Decided to remove the roof and cut away a big chunk of near side dashboard purely for access. Roof will go back on, and removing the chunk of dash saved a couple of kg.

Replaced the gear linkage, old one had been snagged at last engine change and wasn't moving freely.

Had to install a new fire extinguisher system to comply with the new regulations. So ripped the old one out (hence decided to take a saw to the dash)

Got an absolute mess of wires to sort out after taking a saw to the dash (were well hidden) - however can now access the foot well properly.

Also changing the loom, but need to sort aforementioned wires.

As the fuel tank is out (to change linkage) I'll see what can be done to solve the low fuel starvation issues. Typically been running the car 10-15kg heavy with fuel to prevent it. Should be fairly easy to foam baffle it

Got the gearbox refurbed. 2-3 synchro had taken a bashing and selector was also a bit sticky.

Would like to get the car a bit lighter, think it was about 980kg at last weigh in.

Top it all off, I don't know what's been nesting in the car over winter, but my seat is torn to shreds and stinks of urine.... So that now needs replaced.


I would like the car MOT'd for convenience, but the handbrake is going to be an issue I feel.

[AJRFulton]

Well that is the engine in. Could have done with extra hands but got there in my fastest time yet.

You cannot view this attachment.

I thankfully went through a checklist before reinstalling, and realised the rear seal was missing - so box, clutch and flywheel off. Again not easy doing it solo.



Have sorted the  inside as well. New 2022 reg extinguisher system installed, and sorted a lot of the wiring out too.






Needs a good scrub inside, but I will sort that. New seat will be here next week.

Anyway today's task is put in the new loom. J-Spec being less than 5 mins away has been a find (how did I not know about these guys!), and great to get all the stupid wee bits (ie a throttle body cable holder bolt) that previously waited days for.

On another note..... The long IKEA trolley..... Definitely going to spend an hour welding this into a 2ZZ/1ZZ jig! Even with some wood this made the install so easy. Literally just sat the car on the engine and it went straight in.

Still would like to get the car below 950kg, but not really sure how to remove another 20-30kg.

Anyway back to it.

[AJRFulton]

Engines in, turning over really nicely, and good oil pressure (30psi under starter motor alone).

However.... Getting fuel pressure, but no fuel is coming through the injectors and no spark either on any cylinder.

Built a new loom from a 1zz loom (courtesy of JSpec) - followed the guide in here. That wasn't working so.... Repaired and put the old loom back in too, but still nothing - same issue.

Any ideas? Feel I've spent about 10 days chasing my tail.

[mr2garageswindon]

Crank sensor?

[AJRFulton]

Crank sensor?

yeah switched that over too

[JB21]

You've obviously checked the fuses but sounds like a AM2,IG2 or EFI fuse.

[AJRFulton]

You've obviously checked the fuses but sounds like a AM2,IG2 or EFI fuse.

Yeah, no blown fuses.

Even stuck an inspection camera in a crank sensor hole to be double sure I installed the cog!

I'm now at the stage of thinking a broken ECU as checked everything

[Alex Knight]

I've never seen an ECU fail, but it's not impossible, and easy to check.

Occsms razor says it's something you have/haven't done though.

[JB21]

I've had a Toyota ECU fail when cable jump starting, heard it pop and got the electric burning smell.

[mr2garageswindon]

Earth wires all good? Easy test, put a jump lead from engine to body or battery negative and give it a go.
Its gotta be something simple.

[Mark A]

Does the ECU communicate with an ODB reader?

[AJRFulton]

Does the ECU communicate with an ODB reader?

Na it's an Apexi

[AJRFulton]

Earth wires all good? Easy test, put a jump lead from engine to body or battery negative and give it a go.
Its gotta be something simple.

Engines well earthed.

Had an earth wire fail in the past causing a retirement.

Now have 1 main earth wire onto each part. Rocker, head, block, crank case, sump and gearbox, as well as the 2x smaller ones that come off of the loom.

[AJRFulton]

Wondering what this would be worth as I'm getting sick of it and the constant 2ZZGE track issues and a total lack of time to actually do anything with the car. It's a source of disappointment and frustration.

Zero Miles Engine - New block supplied by MWR (Reground OEM crank +0.25mm, OEM bearings, Mahle Pistons and Carillo H beam Rods). Top end - Piper Stage 2 Cams, MWR Flat Valves, Titanium Retainers, Springs, etc.

6 speed box - Zero miles since recondition

Apexi FC ECU

Oil cooler with Accusump and Elise Part sump

BC Racing ER Coilovers - < 50 track miles, Zero road miles

Hardline Control Arms <50 miles

Fully poly bushed

Whiteline ARB

K-Sport 6 pot front brakes, AP Racing 2 Pot rear brakes with new K-Sport rotors and unused carbotech pads

10 Point SW Motorsport welded cage, with hard top

Full under body bracing, and uprated cross bracing

Fully stripped inside (960 kg) with unused Sparco Circuit seat, unused TRS harnesses and 2022 OMP Fire extinguisher system

3x sets of Rota Grid alloys (track used condition, not perfect but not awful either paint wise - but no buckles or dents) - 1 set with unused AR1 tyres, 1 set with part worn AR1 tyres, 1 set with (1 wet session) Toyo R1R tyres.

1x set of OEM alloys (shabby condition) - with near new Rainsport 5's

ABS deleted

Bodywork is track (bumpers held on with tiewraps, etc.). However bar chips and scrapes... everything is straight enough. No rust of any note.

In my ownership the car has podiumed in every event it has ever finished

[JB21]

Wondering what this would be worth as I'm getting sick of it and the constant 2ZZGE track issues and a total lack of time to actually do anything with the car. It's a source of disappointment and frustration.

Zero Miles Engine - New block supplied by MWR (Reground OEM crank +0.25mm, OEM bearings, Mahle Pistons and Carillo H beam Rods). Top end - Piper Stage 2 Cams, MWR Flat Valves, Titanium Retainers, Springs, etc.

6 speed box - Zero miles since recondition

Apexi FC ECU

Oil cooler with Accusump and Elise Part sump

BC Racing ER Coilovers - < 50 track miles, Zero road miles

Hardline Control Arms <50 miles

Fully poly bushed

Whiteline ARB

K-Sport 6 pot front brakes, AP Racing 2 Pot rear brakes with new K-Sport rotors and unused carbotech pads

10 Point SW Motorsport welded cage, with hard top

Full under body bracing, and uprated cross bracing

Fully stripped inside (960 kg) with unused Sparco Circuit seat, unused TRS harnesses and 2022 OMP Fire extinguisher system

3x sets of Rota Grid alloys (track used condition, not perfect but not awful either paint wise - but no buckles or dents) - 1 set with unused AR1 tyres, 1 set with part worn AR1 tyres, 1 set with (1 wet session) Toyo R1R tyres.

1x set of OEM alloys (shabby condition) - with near new Rainsport 5's

ABS deleted

Bodywork is track (bumpers held on with tiewraps, etc.). However bar chips and scrapes... everything is straight enough. No rust of any note.

In my ownership the car has podiumed in every event it has ever finished

To the right buyer £8-10K, ZZW30 prices have gone up recently and decent spec 2zz track/race cars are rare. I'd value mine at around £7k. You maybe better parting it out, you'd defo get more I reckon. I'd be interested in quite a few items on your list.

[Chilli Girl]

Judging from your very final paragraph, isn't that reason to hold onto it.   I feel your pain though.
But I'm in no position to talk!

[AJRFulton]

Judging from your very final paragraph, isn't that reason to hold onto it.   I feel your pain though.
But I'm in no position to talk!

I'm in the position where I want to race, but can't afford to race, thus in order to afford to race I then give myself no time to race. Been struggling trying to do it completely by myself, not actually sure I even enjoy it, but don't want to give up. Fed up being in the garage, making things out of welding wire and what so I can hold things, or pull things whilst being in another location around the car. I've had a few near misses with things falling, worst being a gearbox - trying to hold and bolt at the same time - also had the car run away whilst trying to tow it from the driveway to the out building (where I have my workshop) by myself.

Feels like a vicious circle - spent a lot on this car getting it sorted, probably £10k plus and 400hrs, but now have no time to actually use it.

Plus the 2ZZ has proven to be such a fragile engine in a race environment. I'm scunnered with it all.