Interesting video on air intakes.

[Dev]

This is how my set up is and after doing many data logs the air remains cool even on the hottest days or driven for a long time.
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Interesting indeed. That's how I had mine setup and it was terrible. My cone (K&N) was very similar too.
Although I used a MAF adapter (which I think was probably part of the problem) because it didn't have the vanes.

Is there any reason why you couldn't put the cone even further into the intake? I mean, what else is that intake keeping cool? The battery?

 The intake has a very large bell opening from which the air filter is attached. What is keeping the intake cold is the pocket of cold air that comes from the side vent where it is directed at the porthole from which the OEM intake gets its cold air. The air filter is almost touching this hole.
 I have gone though so many intake tubes after my 2ZZ swap. I was trying to solve both a reduction of IAT and bogging issue I had when the car was cold.   
 Once I got a proper calibrated intake tube with the vanes it made a big difference. No more bogging and the car felt much more responsive like OEM quality.
 I got the idea from the Celica boards where they would cut out their 2ZZ intake tubes and use them to solve their issues and to improve performance until Cobb tuning made a calibrated tube that was meant for the WRX that used a similar MAF but had the exact same dimension of the tube and vanes.
 I also originally had a K&N type of oil gauze filter and it made things worse. What happens is a bit of the oil mist comes off the filter over time and coats the MAF sensor hot wire which attracts dirt. What this does insulate the MAF hot wire making things worse with its readings. I then went to a foam filter and eventually the best option was a dry flow filter that uses no oil and it filters better. The only downside is to clean it you vacuum the outside and it has a limited life span that has to be replaced.

[Zspeed]

Sounds like we could do with someone designing one of these that could fix opposite the oem intake feed by the vent and shutting off the oem one.   Maybe including a second hole/pipe that allows air into the engine bay so it can still do the cooling job.

Anyone got any skills for this?

[The Other Stu]

Sounds like we could do with someone designing one of these that could fix opposite the oem intake feed by the vent and shutting off the oem one.   Maybe including a second hole/pipe that allows air into the engine bay so it can still do the cooling job.

Anyone got any skills for this?

I could 3D print that in ABS, but as above, I'm concerned that if you remove all the cooling to the engine bay, other parts will overheat (like the battery)

[Zspeed]

Sounds like we could do with someone designing one of these that could fix opposite the oem intake feed by the vent and shutting off the oem one.   Maybe including a second hole/pipe that allows air into the engine bay so it can still do the cooling job.

Anyone got any skills for this?

I could 3D print that in ABS, but as above, I'm concerned that if you remove all the cooling to the engine bay, other parts will overheat (like the battery)

Yes I understand, could you do it with 2 feeds so there is still a feed running into engine bay?

[Zspeed]

Like this

[The Other Stu]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

[Zspeed]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

From what I saw Danny just had a open cone filter pushed up against the inlet.

I reckon with a designed cover with two ports, one the right size to feed straight into an enclosed filter and one to feed the engine bay it may be possible to control the AIT a bit more. 

However it may be just over engineering, and a suitable hose with v stack on the end cable tied in place will do the same job as the flow coming in the vent will prevent warm air from the engine bay entering it unless at standstill.

How much does it cost to 3D print stuff?

[Dev]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

Was his air intake restrictive? I didn't catch that part. If so something is clearly wrong with his design.

[Dev]

Sounds like we could do with someone designing one of these that could fix opposite the oem intake feed by the vent and shutting off the oem one.   Maybe including a second hole/pipe that allows air into the engine bay so it can still do the cooling job.

Anyone got any skills for this?

  There have been a few that have tried something like that. I have added a snorkel to the side vent that directed air on top of the filter. It did not make any difference. I blocked off the side vent from the outside to see what happens and the car still received cold air so I determined that the air is also coming from underneath.
 
As far as the port hole that takes in cold air for the OEM intake it does it actively only when the car sucks in air. The air does not go though that hole passively so it does not need to be plugged. 

[Gaz mr-s]

I don't recall him thinking it was restrictive....he was pleased with gains.  One of the other racers in the Championship said he has more power than Danny achieved, but other than a Zero manifold, I don't know what he uses.
Said racer stuffed Danny up the rear end into a corner at Silverstone & Danny's is quite badly damaged, - he's not sure if he'll be continuing.

[Dev]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

From what I saw Danny just had a open cone filter pushed up against the inlet.

I reckon with a designed cover with two ports, one the right size to feed straight into an enclosed filter and one to feed the engine bay it may be possible to control the AIT a bit more. 

However it may be just over engineering, and a suitable hose with v stack on the end cable tied in place will do the same job as the flow coming in the vent will prevent warm air from the engine bay entering it unless at standstill.

How much does it cost to 3D print stuff?

The problem with his intake is being in the wrong position.  It needs to bend downwards in the path of the pocket of air like mine. Also it needed the shielding to create that pocket of air from escaping. 
If you notice in that video where he used smoke the shielding kicked back the smoke backwards forming a barrier of cold air.
I tried it his way with a shorter design that was straight and it produced higher IAT. 

I wouldn't over engineer it. This intake has been used on almost all the 2ZZ swapped cars for over 16 years and some 1ZZ cars also.
Given the proper tune it made very good power and there was no issues with heat. Some of these cars were raced and have gone to the drag strip making good times. If there was an issue with this design regarding heat or restrictiveness it would have been abandoned.

However if you run the OEM ECU then you will run into the problem of not optimizing power and that has more to do with the vanes. 

There was a company that made this kind of intake for this car and I believe they still do but it is expensive.

It was sold by Weapon R.
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 I did not like the design because it is not long enough but to their credit they designed a shield for it that bolts onto the fire wall and it worked very well and you could fit the battery.
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[Dev]

I don't recall him thinking it was restrictive....he was pleased with gains.  One of the other racers in the Championship said he has more power than Danny achieved, but other than a Zero manifold, I don't know what he uses.
Said racer stuffed Danny up the rear end into a corner at Silverstone & Danny's is quite badly damaged, - he's not sure if he'll be continuing.

 It was probably the intake design that caused the crash. Joking of course. 
 Its too bad and I hope he was able to log temps for the intake to see if they came down.
   I am still not satisfied with the way he was trying to reduce his intake temps but I suppose shielding is better than no shielding. 
 
The one thing he got right in my opinion was trying the 2ZZ intake housing. I had this in mind for a long time because I believed it might actually make power and with what Danny did shows me that it might be the case. All that is needed is for one of you to try it. You don't need a dyno, with the power he made you should be able to feel it.



 

[The Other Stu]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

Was his air intake restrictive? I didn't catch that part. If so something is clearly wrong with his design.

He was getting heat soak. So he bought a cheap ebay air intake that has a small hose coming out of it.
He talks about it early on, but it's the silver thing

[Dev]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

Was his air intake restrictive? I didn't catch that part. If so something is clearly wrong with his design.

He was getting heat soak. So he bought a cheap ebay air intake that has a small hose coming out of it.
He talks about it early on, but it's the silver thing

Thats not really going to help.
 That silver hose thing looks like its coming from the side vent to shower the filter. I tried something like that and it didn't make any difference.
 If anything it probably blocks the main path of air by having the tubing being in its own way.

[shnazzle]

I'm guessing that was the issue with Danny's intake. It's very restrictive. You want as much air as you can getting in.

The OEM intake is like 3 or 4 inches diameter all the way from the wheel arch (especially if you have a Markiii elbow, so you don't get the "in and out")

Was his air intake restrictive? I didn't catch that part. If so something is clearly wrong with his design.

He was getting heat soak. So he bought a cheap ebay air intake that has a small hose coming out of it.
He talks about it early on, but it's the silver thing

Thats not really going to help.
 That silver hose thing looks like its coming from the side vent to shower the filter. I tried something like that and it didn't make any difference.
 If anything it probably blocks the main path of air by having the tubing being in its own way.

Indeed. I have this, with a velocity stack on the vent side, but only because the Hurricane is an enclosed filter so the pipe connected to the filter housing

[Zspeed]

Guys, is it important to set the Maf a particular distance from the throttle body when putting these together?

[Gaz mr-s]

I've seen 12" minimum mentioned more than once. 

[Dev]

Mine is at about 9 1/2" currently with no issues. actually when it was shorter it was at about 6" and no issues. I would say you don't want it right by the throttle body. If there is going to be a problem with the length you can adjust it using silicone couplers of the right length. 

Here is one of the intakes filters I used in the past.
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It seemed like a good idea at the time but it was a failure. I felt that I lost power even though the air was cold. The filter was dry foam and not very restrictive but the shield was. 
 
It is better to have the filter open so it can suck in as much air without barriers in its way. This trumps any kind of cold air advantage. Unless your IATs are very high you will not notice much difference with a 10-20F reduction so its not worth chasing ambient air by trying to divert air or adding a lot of shielding.  As long as you can get the filter in the pocket with the battery as a shield you will get cold air while the car is moving.

[Zspeed]

Mine is at about 9 1/2" currently with no issues. actually when it was shorter it was at about 6" and no issues. I would say you don't want it right by the throttle body. If there is going to be a problem with the length you can adjust it using silicone couplers of the right length. 

Here is one of the intakes filters I used in the past.
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It seemed like a good idea at the time but it was a failure. I felt that I lost power even though the air was cold. The filter was dry foam and not very restrictive but the shield was. 
 
It is better to have the filter open so it can suck in as much air without barriers in its way. This trumps any kind of cold air advantage. Unless your IATs are very high you will not notice much difference with a 10-20F reduction so its not worth chasing ambient air by trying to divert air or adding a lot of shielding.  As long as you can get the filter in the pocket with the battery as a shield you will get cold air while the car is moving.

That's a bit of bling right there. Bet they sold loads.

I have a new filter on the way, just need to sort some hose out. Will test it let you know how it compares to my stock airbox with 2zz maf

[Dev]

 Make sure that the intake sits behind the battery and is by the port hole closest to the fender.

[DanRS4x]

I'm really interested in the way this develops, although my car really doesn't need to be any noisier, I do like the idea of a cheap power boost that doesn't count as an engine mod.

[Zspeed]

I'm really interested in the way this develops, although my car really doesn't need to be any noisier, I do like the idea of a cheap power boost that doesn't count as an engine mod.

Well dont worry as the saga continues!!

https://youtu.be/LW-ObX0I7Fg

He is getting there now 😁

[Dev]

Its good to see he finally figured it out and abandoned the vent tube.
However the placement of the air filter could be better. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference it made.

[Zspeed]

Its good to see he finally figured it out and abandoned the vent tube.
However the placement of the air filter could be better. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference it made.

When I look along the car I can understand about the low pressure point.

It doesn't look like air would be particularly forced in like if they were at the front of the car. 

Have you ever looked into whether the extended side scoops actually create much more pressure so you might get a ram effect?

[Dev]

Its good to see he finally figured it out and abandoned the vent tube.
However the placement of the air filter could be better. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference it made.

When I look along the car I can understand about the low pressure point.

It doesn't look like air would be particularly forced in like if they were at the front of the car. 

Have you ever looked into whether the extended side scoops actually create much more pressure so you might get a ram effect?

 The amount air that is required and the speed necessary for it to happen makes it a near impossibility. Not just for adding anything to our car but for most cars and motorcycles that have it in their design as its mostly a gimmick or it kind of works but at very high speed and the amount of power is not much considering the displacement of the engine. You would also need a very large opening many times the size of the intake tube so the volume of air can be compressed to be useful. Pressure is no good if you don't have volume.
 
When the aftermarket industry uses the term short ram air intake it is purely for marketing. What they are actually describing is a less restrictive intake making it easier for the engine to suck in air however you are only as good as what comes after it meaning a free flow exhaust system.

 The only thing that is of concern is creating a pocket of cold air from where the intake can draw from without mixing too much of the hot air from the engine bay. This is true with the OEM intake as there is a good reason why there is a port hole on the side of the fender rather then the OEM having a duct directly I the path of air pressure. This is so you do not bring in more dirt and contaminants directly.

 When we add our aftermarket intake directly the path of this cold air it will require more servicing but its really not that bad.