Brake Bleeding

kanujunkie · May 11, 2005, 12:27

I need to bleed my brakes of the Dot 3 brake fluid for Dot 5.1 before i go to Donington next month but do i need to bleed them in any particular order, i know you do on some types of vehicles, but what about the 2??

Tem · May 11, 2005, 12:35

Yeah, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

(from furthest to closest)

kanujunkie · May 11, 2005, 14:25

cheers Tem s:D

s:D

so.simple · May 11, 2005, 14:39

Isn't the master cylinder on the opposite side on the RHD cars?

Tem · May 11, 2005, 17:59

Quote from: "so.simple"Isn't the master cylinder on the opposite side on the RHD cars?

Good point, it probably is where the pedal is s:? :? s:?

left rear, right rear, left front, right front in that case s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

kanujunkie · May 11, 2005, 18:02

cheers guys, i take it theres a bleed nipple on each caliper somewhere as well?

Tem · May 11, 2005, 18:04

Quote from: "kanujunkie"cheers guys, i take it theres a bleed nipple on each caliper somewhere as well?

Yeah, on the upper part, you can't really miss it s8)

s8)

Also, if you do the bleeding in a wrong order, you just never get it done, so even trial&error isn't the end of the world s8)

s8)

kanujunkie · May 11, 2005, 18:06

cheers Tem s:D

s:D

aaronjb · May 11, 2005, 19:57

Quote from: "Tem"even trial&error isn't the end of the world s8) s8)

Nope, you'll just be at it till the end of the world comes s;)

s;)

Tem · May 12, 2005, 06:00

Quote from: "aaronjb"
Quote from: "Tem"even trial&error isn't the end of the world s8) s8)

Nope, you'll just be at it till the end of the world comes s;) s;)

s:lol: :lol: s:lol: True...

(just meant trying between those two options)

Anonymous · July 26, 2007, 11:38

Resurecting an old thread rather than starting a new one!

Does anyone know what size ID tube is needed to go over the bleed nipple on the calipers?

davidhowson · July 26, 2007, 13:24

Stu, What brand of fluid are you changing to? I want to change when my s/s hoses arrive. I was thinking of AP Racing fluid as I have used that in competition before.

Anonymous · July 26, 2007, 13:28

Quote from: "davidhowson"Stu, What brand of fluid are you changing to? I want to change when my s/s hoses arrive. I was thinking of AP Racing fluid as I have used that in competition before.

Im going for the Motul RBF 600, its supposed to be good stuff.

Chris · July 26, 2007, 13:52

that the stuff i got, from camskill iirc..

Anonymous · July 26, 2007, 13:58

I think I got it from Opie, £11 for 500ml

kanujunkie · July 26, 2007, 14:07

Quote from: "davidhowson"Stu, What brand of fluid are you changing to? I want to change when my s/s hoses arrive. I was thinking of AP Racing fluid as I have used that in competition before.

jeeze this is an old post! i did Donny 3 years ago!

i went for the Motul RBF600, tis good stuff

davidhowson · July 26, 2007, 14:13

I hadn't noticed the date of the original post! s:lol: :lol: s:lol: But you have had time to try the stuff out by now stu! SO thanks for the recomendation.

None of this answers Andy's question which restarted this old thread though! Sorry Andy, I don't know the answer myself. But if you ever find out, at least you'll know what fluid to put back in...

Anonymous · July 26, 2007, 14:15

I am putting RBF 600 in anyway.

I will just get a selection of clear hoses from work and seee which one fits the best I think, unless someone knows?

aaronjb · July 26, 2007, 14:20

Quote from: "andy b"Resurecting an old thread rather than starting a new one!

Does anyone know what size ID tube is needed to go over the bleed nipple on the calipers?

8mm hose is a little loose, somewhere around 6mm should be about right.

Liz · February 28, 2008, 19:41

Digging up an old thread - ah the joy of search!! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anyhoo, another thing I have noticed on my car after driving Simons is how far my brake pedal travels. When I used Simons car the pedal felt as though it is right at the top..got back in mine when back on the road and my pedal travels quite a bit. If I pump the brake a couple of times whilst driving (I had checked in the mirror beforehand BTW!) the pedal comes up to the top again, but drive on just a little bit and its gone down again. Now I have those braided brake hoses so I am thinking that maybe my brakes should not be feeling like this. Have checked pads visually and there is plenty of meat on them..is brake bleeding easy to do or shall I go and see the madmen down at Elys?

markiii · February 28, 2008, 19:56

if you have teh correct stuff it's easy

Stu had a lot of success with those Speed bleeders IIRC

cclarke99 · February 28, 2008, 20:30

It could be air in the system or problems with the adjustment. It's worth seeing if pulling on the handbrake a bit reduces the amount you have to pump the pedal - if it does then the rear adjusters are not working correctly. Also slight run out on the disks can push the pads back, needing an extra pump on the pedal to move them back in. Another possibility is floating calipers sticking. As with all things to do with brakes, unless you're completely confident, leave it to the experts.

aaronjb · February 28, 2008, 20:35

Quote from: "markiii"Stu had a lot of success with those Speed bleeders IIRC

Yeah - they make the job super easy.. even I managed it s:)

s:)

Liz · February 28, 2008, 22:42

I saw Stus link on the speedbleeders - I am scared to touch the brakes s:shock: :shock: s:shock: - well anything on the car really s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

kanujunkie · February 28, 2008, 23:14

dont worry so much Liz, it'll be ok, your great at organising things and if you can organise jobs so well(which i beleive you do as a job) then organising a few steps on the brakes is no issues.

if its just the bleeding of the brakes and changing the bleed nipples to speedbleeders, it shouldn't take anymore than 5mins a corner. The first part of the job is easy, just unwind the old nipple useing a spanner, then wind in the speedbleeder till its fully in, then unwind the speedbleeder about a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, attach a length of hose down to a catch bottle. Next step is to take off the cap on the resovoir, make sure the resovoir is full and pump the brakes about 3-4 times before checking the line to the catch bottle for bubbles of air, if you see any then check the resovoirs full again and pump another 3-4times and repeat until its clear. At the end, tighten up the speedbleeder, disconnect the hose and put the resovoir cap back on before moving to the next point

just dont ever let the resovoir go dry, never do more than 5 pumps before checking the resovoir level. And be damn careful with brake fluid, get it on your paint and its bye bye to it, we even wrapped my strut bar up in rag prior and used a funnel. Last tip is to always put that resovoir cap back on before moving to the next bleeder as it prevents the fluid just running out the lines and pulling air in. Think thats it, the actual routine of the bleeding may take several attempts to get all the air out, the backs have longer lines than the fronts for instance but you should have about half a bottle left over from 2 qts

give us a call if you have any probs when you do it Liz