2zz issues

Started by tommyzoom99, October 14, 2021, 15:06

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tommyzoom99

Hi All

Hoping someone can help with my 2zz

One day about 2 months ago the car started hesitating for a split second on throttle.

Then a few days later I went to start it up and it would start and run for about 5 seconds then die, engine light on. car doesnt sound rough or like its missing it sounds sweet as ever when it runs for the 5 secs.

Got the code reader out, all 4 cylinders, igniter circuit fault codes as follows: P1300 P1305 P1310 P1315

I then got 4 second hand coils and new plugs fitted them....made no difference starts but only runs for 5 seconds max then engine light comes on and cuts out.

I then checked all the earths on the engine block, fire wall and strut towers cleaned them all and refitted. non of them looked corroded but did it any way......made no difference

Then I changed the crank sensor cleaned the earth point for the crank sensor up as well, checked the fuses and relays checked all other sensors like OCV, temp etc cant see anything a miss.... made no difference

So i though what else is there left???? just for fun I thought I would change the fuel pump as i had a spare that came off a working car with no issues.

swapped the pump in and it fired right up no issues and will sit there idling now with no engine light.... i was happy thought i had fixed it.

the next opportunity i got i gave it a test drive and with minimal throttle you can move it around but as soon as you give it any meaningful throttle its like it hits a brick wall....feels a bit like a boost cut i have had on some turbo cars.

The car will stay running but engine light comes on and same codes as before: P1300 P1305 P1310 P1315

I can clear the codes and it will idle no problem, doesn't sound rough and just as sweet as it was when running properly

So my question is what the hell is wrong with this thing? :)

im thinking fuel pressure regulator, but i know this is on top on the pump so should of been solved with the spare pump i fitted.

Just cant get my head around it, driving me mad as i missed out on alot of driving fun this summer.

any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers tommy

My track project
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Dev


There is a lot that it could be.

What are your short and long fuel trims?


tommyzoom99

Quote from: Dev on October 14, 2021, 15:11There is a lot that it could be.

What are your short and long fuel trims?


[/quote]

i have no idea what the fuel trims are im afraid. dont think my code reader is good enough for that.

cheers tommy
My track project
viewtopic.php?t=51237

Dev

Quote from: tommyzoom99 on October 14, 2021, 15:35
Quote from: Dev on October 14, 2021, 15:11There is a lot that it could be.

What are your short and long fuel trims?



i have no idea what the fuel trims are im afraid. dont think my code reader is good enough for that.

cheers tommy
[/quote]

You need that information along with some others like voltage and so forth. A recorded log of the event is invaluable and can point you in the right direction rather than swapping parts until its fixed. A good code reader and an app is cheap these days.




Dev

For now I would check your air filter and any obstructions in your exhaust.
Other possible causes are a bad VVT sprocket.



Call the midlife!

As Dev already says it's better to have the information before swapping parts about but have you looked at the cam position sensor as well? If it doesn't know where it's starting from it can't know where to go...
60% of the time it works everytime...

tommyzoom99

Hi All

for those that are interested, we have managed to fix the issue.

It all boiled down to the wiring rouge did on the conversion, i have to admit the wiring job was pretty poor, and if someone like me can do a much better job i cant say much good about rouge. there was very little slack in the wiring and all the connections were pretty poor, as the engine moved under load it just slowly pulled the wires apart, re wired all the extra bits for the 2zz and all is fine now.

cheers tommy
My track project
viewtopic.php?t=51237

shnazzle

Quote from: tommyzoom99 on October 28, 2021, 16:02Hi All

for those that are interested, we have managed to fix the issue.

It all boiled down to the wiring rouge did on the conversion, i have to admit the wiring job was pretty poor, and if someone like me can do a much better job i cant say much good about rouge. there was very little slack in the wiring and all the connections were pretty poor, as the engine moved under load it just slowly pulled the wires apart, re wired all the extra bits for the 2zz and all is fine now.

cheers tommy
Not thr first time I've heard that exact thing. Wasn't Rogue though I think
...neutiquam erro.

JB21

Proper cowboy outfit. I've had to rectify so much of their shoddy work its ridiculous. The prices they charge as well!!!

tommyzoom99

#9
Quote from: shnazzle on October 28, 2021, 17:05
Quote from: tommyzoom99 on October 28, 2021, 16:02Hi All

for those that are interested, we have managed to fix the issue.

It all boiled down to the wiring rouge did on the conversion, i have to admit the wiring job was pretty poor, and if someone like me can do a much better job i cant say much good about rouge. there was very little slack in the wiring and all the connections were pretty poor, as the engine moved under load it just slowly pulled the wires apart, re wired all the extra bits for the 2zz and all is fine now.

cheers tommy
Not thr first time I've heard that exact thing. Wasn't Rogue though I think

the conversion was done by rouge. at a cost of 5-6k which from what i have seen of the wiring is a joke.

cheers tommy
My track project
viewtopic.php?t=51237

tommyzoom99

Quote from: JB21 on October 28, 2021, 17:13Proper cowboy outfit. I've had to rectify so much of their shoddy work its ridiculous. The prices they charge as well!!!

Yeah my opinion of them is very low now, especially when you find house hold wiring used in the loom its never a good sign :)

cheers tommy
My track project
viewtopic.php?t=51237

tommyzoom99

My track project
viewtopic.php?t=51237

shnazzle

Quote from: tommyzoom99 on October 29, 2021, 09:46
Quote from: shnazzle on October 28, 2021, 17:05
Quote from: tommyzoom99 on October 28, 2021, 16:02Hi All

for those that are interested, we have managed to fix the issue.

It all boiled down to the wiring rouge did on the conversion, i have to admit the wiring job was pretty poor, and if someone like me can do a much better job i cant say much good about rouge. there was very little slack in the wiring and all the connections were pretty poor, as the engine moved under load it just slowly pulled the wires apart, re wired all the extra bits for the 2zz and all is fine now.

cheers tommy
Not thr first time I've heard that exact thing. Wasn't Rogue though I think

the conversion was done by rouge. at a cost of 5-6k which from what i have seen of the wiring is a joke.

cheers tommy
Sorry I mean last time I saw this issue it wasn't Rogue that did that build. Definitely did this one :)

It's sloppy. Wiring seems to be a common afterthought.
...neutiquam erro.

Dev

Sloppy wiring with 2ZZ swaps are somewhat common over here for people that inherit a 2ZZ swap car on the cheap because of issues. When the new owner went to check the wiring it was either wrong or the wires were taped together. Because these cars are cheap in the used market you get people who shouldn't be working on cars.




Mark A

Not related to Tommyzoom99 issues but does the 2ZZ raise the RPM to meet electrical demand? Mine seems to rev high if I have any electrical components on. Might be something to do with my Lithium ION battery?

Dev

#15
Quote from: Mark A on October 29, 2021, 16:52Not related to Tommyzoom99 issues but does the 2ZZ raise the RPM to meet electrical demand? Mine seems to rev high if I have any electrical components on. Might be something to do with my Lithium ION battery?

 Not to my knowledge. The 2ZZ alternator is different than the 1ZZ even though they both fit in the same application.
 The 2ZZ alternator bearings and rectifier is able to take the high RPM without causing it damage. Apart from that the voltage remains the same. It may raise at idle when there is demand on the electrical system  like lights and other accessories but that is a normal function. 

 As for the lithium battery it does raise the resting voltage to around 13 volts which is higher than a lead acid battery which is good especially if you have a older car with corroded electrical connections and old wiring it can give it a boost to the electrical system. It also recharges quickly so it has less lag on the electrical system. For audio components like amps it has very low ESR which means better transient response.




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