The Nav Pod & fitting HU in the Nav-pod

Started by Mollydog, November 27, 2021, 20:57

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Mollydog

I can't believe it, I placed the order yesterday morning around 6am and it arrived this monrning around 10.30am , all for around £6 P&P

I've a bench top 12v DC battery and setting it up before I fit it into the navpod, I can see I'll be making cuts in to the pod to get the unit in










Mollydog

One thing I've discovered straight away, one corner of the unit after only half an hour gets a bit too hot to touch, maybe there isn't sufficient heat sinks for the PX5 with an 8 core

This is the location where it gets a bit too hot





I've placed an order for 2 small 40mm x 40mm computer fans



now I'm looking for a heatsink to place at this corner and one of the fans attached to this heatsink while the other fan attached at the (inside) holes on the navpod



Am I right in thinking that the fans should be pulling the air away from the unit and also pulling the air out of the pod and not the other way round?

https://youtu.be/-UseqzJGfNs

For today I'm working out how to replace the Android boot animation for one of my own, then come tomorrow I'll be starting on cutting up the navpod

SuperArt

#27
That is a very slim double din. If only the column of buttons were in the other side so as to be closer and more within reach from the driver seat.
Waiting for the wiring write up. I'd like to see how much work is needed to get it up and running with the stock in-car audio stuff.

As for ventilation I imagine this is not dissimilar to PC building where depending on number of fans, their position and direction you can end up with a positive pressure system, negative pressure system or neutral. Each has pros and cons, mostly dust build up related, but heat dissipation shouldnt be drastically different.
Best regards,
Arthur
Essex - "Always happy to meet up for a weekend drive"
Making demented squirrel noises since 2014
TTE "Turbo Dodo" - https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?msg=797148
TTE Turbo "Friday" - https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=73711.0

J88TEO


Mollydog

I made a start on cutting out the aperture in the Navpod last week, I took my time and did small cuts at a time, I still have more to cut out as it's very dusty cutting the fibreglass it's something to be doing outside and the weather hasn't been too cooperative in this respect so still have a bit more to do















I plan (if possible) to have the face off the head unit vertical  in the navpod and not follow the slope, so used an angle finder to see the angle of the cut I need to get the face as upright as poss, looks like around 20 degrees should do it





For my Elise I now use the Viofo A129 Due DVR,I was thinking g of buying one for the MR2, but as the new head unit I'm going to fit in the Navpod is compatible with a USB DVR I was on the lookout for a good one, but like most things, it's a minefield out their, Chinese sellers do their best to answer questions but I've found their understanding in English is limited

So in the end just went with what Erisin suggested, they said this model is a 1080 HD, there are more than just image size to good image capture, using the movie inspector I see the bitrate is just an acceptable 6.15 Mbit/s,



https://youtu.be/3F1dMmkLmJM

10 Mbit/s (or higher) would of been more acceptable but then for £17 +P&P I can't complain, I'm sure in a year or two they'll have high quality USB head unit compatible DVR's at a good price

Just for comparison, my first DVR in 2010 cost me £30 and produced AVI files of 420 and I was pleased with the results (at the time), here's a screen capture of the quality of the movie clips



Not a sharp spot across the whole image, even the roadsigns are difficult to make out

Anyway the DVR arrived Friday



I can't say it was well packet but it arrived in safe





As with most Chinese items, the instruction. Manual is next to useless

https://youtu.be/paLMOdLmJFY










Mollydog

#30
Got round to chipping away at the Nav pod this afternoon, if anyone is looking for a plug & play 2 DIN head unit housing this one isn't for you

I knew the size before I bought it so no complaints from me, but it is taking me a bit longer than I was hoping,

a few images showing my progress this afternoon, with all my cutting and grinding I'm still around millimetre too short hight wise, I don't want to cutting right to the edge of the housing so will have to be doing minor sanding down in certain places, one good thing is that the full screen can be seen from both driver and passenger side.

any coments good or bad most welcome











I'm going to see if I can still have the unit facing vertical in the housing









the housing will need cleaning up and re painted :)

Mollydog

In the end I had to cut out most if not all of the nav-pod insert as it was just too small to get the head unit in



The insert is tapered so the bottom front is/was just over 200mm and the top front 175mm at the back it was even smaller, I didn't measure it but at a guessing it maybe have been 150mm x 80mm or there about

As I cut out the insert base and most of the sides I needed to make something to fix the head unit to, I popped over to a local perspex supplier local to me, I asked if they had any small bits of off cuts I could buy, they pointed me to their skip and said I could take all I wanted (for free)

I  took a few bits I though might come in useful



I ended up deciding to make use of these bits here in the red circle



While I was waiting for the JB-WELD to arrive I was testing the perspex slithers using my hot glue gun after gluing the slithered to the nav-pod I left it over night, to my amazement the hold was very strong that when the JB-WELD did arrive I didn't use it and stuck with the hot glue

I use my Dremel to cut two slits on each perspex for the bolts holding the head unit, I had a couple of tries at this, I finally settled on cutting the slits before the perspex  was glued to the nav-pod for a better finish, I have a very understanding wife, I fixed my Dremel in our utility room to do the cutting, not a murmur  from her



















My Tesa 19mm 25m roll arrived the other day so wrapped the extended power leads



I discovered that I can thread my power leads, reversing camera & reversing buzzer  leads and DVR leads all from under the cubby, as there is a indent on the underside that will allow me to thread the wires through once I've cut a hole centre of the cubby,  I'm not sure how visible this is in the image but hope it's clear what I'm saying

The white wires are the extended power leads from the ISO connections centre consul below the heater switches







These are the wires in the loom from the ISO connections to the bottom of the cubby



Looking at the cubby the hole for the cables needs to be well back as the unit itself is a good 65mm deep,



So I've decided to cur the hole  approximately where the  tape is




In the meantime I've also fitted the extractor fans, on e where the unit gets very hot





And two glued to the air vent on the nav-pod



I'll be making two connections to the head unit, one is for the fans, the other is for the SWC ~(steering wheel control) for this I'm using these Posi-Tap connectors these  are a lot more expensive that the usual spade connectors but in my opinion these are far better in this build

For the SWC


For the fans


Dev gave a link to a STL file of a Nav-Pod, at the moment I'm in two minds whether or not to go for the 3D version so for now I'll continue with this fibreglass one. If I do go for the 3D version it needs slight alterations to make a 2DIN head unit fit

MrT

Quote from: Mollydog on February  6, 2022, 16:06One thing I've discovered straight away, one corner of the unit after only half an hour gets a bit too hot to touch, maybe there isn't sufficient heat sinks for the PX5 with an 8 core

This is the location where it gets a bit too hot





I've placed an order for 2 small 40mm x 40mm computer fans



now I'm looking for a heatsink to place at this corner and one of the fans attached to this heatsink while the other fan attached at the (inside) holes on the navpod



Am I right in thinking that the fans should be pulling the air away from the unit and also pulling the air out of the pod and not the other way round?

https://youtu.be/-UseqzJGfNs

For today I'm working out how to replace the Android boot animation for one of my own, then come tomorrow I'll be starting on cutting up the navpod
Only need a fan at the vent to push air through the pod, but think about where the air can exhaust out also.

I'm glad I found this thread because I have exactly the same aim and have had one of these grp navpods for a few years waiting to do this (car been garaged for >3 yes).

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk

Cheers
Tyler

RIPieces: Sable \'05 Roadster \'Red\' edition.
Project: MR-S import (JDM) now my toy and mule for:
SC build OR a 2AR-FXE swap (ref: Frankenstein Motorworks) OR Electric conversion
AND rebody with a fibreglass replica of Porsche 550 Spyder.

MrT

Quote from: Mollydog on March 29, 2022, 18:08In the end I had to cut out most if not all of the nav-pod insert as it was just too small to get the head unit in



The insert is tapered so the bottom front is/was just over 200mm and the top front 175mm at the back it was even smaller, I didn't measure it but at a guessing it maybe have been 150mm x 80mm or there about

As I cut out the insert base and most of the sides I needed to make something to fix the head unit to, I popped over to a local perspex supplier local to me, I asked if they had any small bits of off cuts I could buy, they pointed me to their skip and said I could take all I wanted (for free)

I  took a few bits I though might come in useful



I ended up deciding to make use of these bits here in the red circle



While I was waiting for the JB-WELD to arrive I was testing the perspex slithers using my hot glue gun after gluing the slithered to the nav-pod I left it over night, to my amazement the hold was very strong that when the JB-WELD did arrive I didn't use it and stuck with the hot glue

I use my Dremel to cut two slits on each perspex for the bolts holding the head unit, I had a couple of tries at this, I finally settled on cutting the slits before the perspex  was glued to the nav-pod for a better finish, I have a very understanding wife, I fixed my Dremel in our utility room to do the cutting, not a murmur  from her



















My Tesa 19mm 25m roll arrived the other day so wrapped the extended power leads



I discovered that I can thread my power leads, reversing camera & reversing buzzer  leads and DVR leads all from under the cubby, as there is a indent on the underside that will allow me to thread the wires through once I've cut a hole centre of the cubby,  I'm not sure how visible this is in the image but hope it's clear what I'm saying

The white wires are the extended power leads from the ISO connections centre consul below the heater switches







These are the wires in the loom from the ISO connections to the bottom of the cubby



Looking at the cubby the hole for the cables needs to be well back as the unit itself is a good 65mm deep,



So I've decided to cur the hole  approximately where the  tape is




In the meantime I've also fitted the extractor fans, on e where the unit gets very hot





And two glued to the air vent on the nav-pod



I'll be making two connections to the head unit, one is for the fans, the other is for the SWC ~(steering wheel control) for this I'm using these Posi-Tap connectors these  are a lot more expensive that the usual spade connectors but in my opinion these are far better in this build

For the SWC


For the fans


Dev gave a link to a STL file of a Nav-Pod, at the moment I'm in two minds whether or not to go for the 3D version so for now I'll continue with this fibreglass one. If I do go for the 3D version it needs slight alterations to make a 2DIN head unit fit
If you start modding and 3d printing these can we adapt it for a full size 2DIN? My idea was to raise the height of the pod to give room for the screen and like you did already, cut the screen surround forward it is a shallow recess and gives the most size. I'd also want the screen vertical to minimise glare and reflection etc

Great work so far and thanks is for sharing!

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk

Cheers
Tyler

RIPieces: Sable \'05 Roadster \'Red\' edition.
Project: MR-S import (JDM) now my toy and mule for:
SC build OR a 2AR-FXE swap (ref: Frankenstein Motorworks) OR Electric conversion
AND rebody with a fibreglass replica of Porsche 550 Spyder.

Dev

Looking great so far.
Here is a tip.
 I found that the bezel on the navpod is creating a little glare because the plastic is a little reflective. I decided to cover the surround in light absorbing flocking material that has an adhesive back.
 I think this would actually make the screen more visible without having the screen overly bright.




TheTigerUK

Wow my mind boggles, I thought I had done good changing the bulbs in my instrument panel !! :)



ps: If your wife should become available please give me a heads up !! :) :) (I have a very understanding wife).
Say it with love, say it with flowers but never, never, say it in writing.

                                     The idea is to die young as late as possible :)

MrT

@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk

Cheers
Tyler

RIPieces: Sable \'05 Roadster \'Red\' edition.
Project: MR-S import (JDM) now my toy and mule for:
SC build OR a 2AR-FXE swap (ref: Frankenstein Motorworks) OR Electric conversion
AND rebody with a fibreglass replica of Porsche 550 Spyder.

Joesson

Quote from: MrT on April  2, 2022, 18:45@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk




Hot transfers to cold.

Mollydog

Quote from: MrT on April  2, 2022, 18:45@Mollydog do the fans pull air into the NavPod or push it out the vent holes? I'd be inclined to push it out as the air out there will be hit under the windscreen but from below the dash should be cooler. And make the cable hope large enough to allow airflow through also. Something that concerned me with the NavPod ventilation for a head unit.

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk



both pulling, on the head unit its set up to pull air from it to the vent and the two on the vent set to pull the air from the nav pod out through the vent

fawtytoo

#39
On the subject of cooling fans, the directions should be both. The fan on the heatsink should blow air ONTO it, and then another to blow the air out of the casing.

If you have a computer tower, that's how the fans work. One fan blowing air onto or across the CPU heatsink, and a case fan to extract the hot air.

EDIT: For your dash pod, you need a vent to allow fresh/cool air to get in too. But that doesn't necessarily need a fan.
"My name is not important" - Slartibartfast

Mollydog

Busy  weekend this past weekend,

Made a start threading the wires through to the dash on to the Nav-pod, as mentioned before, nothing is easy on the MR2I ended up having to take out the passenger airbag to get to the bottom of the Nav-pod,

The air bag wasn't impeding me but taking it our made it easier to see where I was threading the wires through

As I needed to thread through a few wires, going to the nav-pod were: main head unit cables, aerial cable, USB cable, reversing cable

Coming from the nav-pod was the reversing alarm buzzer, I still haver to thread through the DVR cable but I'm leaving this till I get the roof latch bolts sorted this coming Wednesday, as the USB cable coming from the the DVR is one long one meaning I would have to be leaving the DVR sliding around

I've taken some images (I hope I get them in the right order) showing my progress


Through the glove box






Cables coming through this side of the centre to the Nav-pod





I worked out I wanted the hole in the Nav-pod approx 95mm back from the front of the head unit



I started off with a hole saw and ended up with a door drill


















I popped an inspection camera down the hole, very tight whichever way I went with the cabling



To make my life easier I  took out the air bag, not as hard as I first thought, out in around 10 minutes and most of that time I was looking for the second nut to the left as you look at the dash



For sure not much room to pass anything through the gaps





First think I passed through was the buzzer cable from the nav-pod to the glovebox location, using a stiff wire to pull/push through the wire



Following this I started off with the head un it c ables and attached other wiring that needed threading through at the same time, I didn't want to be threading each wire individually, I'd be there all week doing it

just the head unit wires



Adding g the aerial wire



Adding the revers camera wiring



Finally the USB wiring



Stiff wire threaded to the hole and now just seeing if all these wires will thread through to the hole

Miracles of miracles I managed to thread the wires through





As mentioned I still need to thread through the DVR cable which I'll attempt after visiting the garage on Wednesday

I'm not adverse to taking out car parts for wiring, I'v e done it many times on the Elise











But somehow it feels a lot harder on the MR2


Mollydog

I don't know why businesses say they are going to do a job and when you turn up they've even forget why you're there

I arrived at the garage a few minutes early and when I spoke to the same boss I talked got on Friday about the re taping they were going to do with my two bolts, he had forgotten who I was and then told me they are too busy to do the work, the best they could do is if I popped in on the 6th of July

I'm looking to see if I can get it done somewhere else

TheTigerUK

Quote from: Mollydog on May 25, 2022, 10:38I don't know why businesses say they are going to do a job and when you turn up they've even forget why you're there

I arrived at the garage a few minutes early and when I spoke to the same boss I talked got on Friday about the re taping they were going to do with my two bolts, he had forgotten who I was and then told me they are too busy to do the work, the best they could do is if I popped in on the 6th of July

I'm looking to see if I can get it done somewhere else

It is frustrating, I got messed about for almost 6 months with my suspension.
Say it with love, say it with flowers but never, never, say it in writing.

                                     The idea is to die young as late as possible :)

Mollydog

I took the MR2 to the garage this morning and picked her up this afternoon, job done





If it's fine tomorrow I'll be making a start on fitting the head unit

After taking out the passenger air bag I was thinking if it's worth replacing it with the cubby hole?

I wen't on to one of the Japanese web sites and see they are around £65 £70 but it's the postage that's the killer, another 60 to 70 pounds then customs and VAT

Anyone that's imported things from Japan, do you know the rate of customs on an item with a total value of around £130 - £140?

Call the midlife!

In theory for that purchase price the seller should apply the VAT at time of purchase and then you pay customs duty at point of entry into the UK, which SHOULD be around 2.5% on the total you paid to the seller.
Failing that the UK courier will calculate the VAT on the purchase price, plus delivery then the customs charges ON THE TOTAL AMOUNT. They'll then probably add their admin fees and bill you before they'll deliver it.
60% of the time it works everytime...

Mollydog

I'll email "Amayama Trading Co. Ltd" who are selling the cubby box and ask if the price includes UK VAT
 

https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-japan/mr-s/ZZW30/186556/body/5501/55446D

Mollydog

I've noticed I never posted the finished job so today I took some images and a video clip of the head unit  fitted to the pod

Overall I'm happy the pod does what its supposed to do, hold the head unit above/on the dash firmly, quality and fitting is well, put mildly below par, I'm sure if I had the skills I maybe could of made a better job of a few things but overall  the pod is something that is better than nothing and from a distant or outside the car it looks OEM

A lot of work needed doing to get a head unit to fit, I can't now remember where I got the link from but I managed to get hold of a STL file of a scanned nav pod but once I discovered we were talking of a few hundred pounds (3 to 4 hundred) to get one made I stopped that line of thought, reason being if mine is a carbon copy of the original then unless the original is modified a 2 DIN head unit will be hard to fit

Back to my pod, here are a few images



If I get the front part of the pod resting in place then the rear looks like this, yes a good 30 to 40mm gap



If I push it back to close the gap



Then the front lifts up around 5 to 8mm



I suppose if I had another go with one I could manage to reduce this gap between the front of the head un it and the pod



I don't have any regrets buying this nav pod as it does what I need it to do "keep the head unit on the dash"  as such I can put up with the final Finnish of the product

Here's the video clip

https://youtu.be/kSefNl-6U7w


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