Passenger Window

Started by stavros58, January 10, 2022, 15:39

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stavros58

Hi, My Passenger window is working intermittently Sometimes I put it down and it won't go back up again then it decides it will go back up generally after I have driven around a bit which makes me think the vibration of driving helps. The motor power is fine, normal speed and I have switched the fuses. I was going to have a look at the center console switch to see if the connections need cleaning but have no idea what tool to use to get the center console screws out at the front as they are impossible to access without taking the seat out. I've taken the door panel off to look at the connections on the motor but then had no idea which connection it is. Any help would be appreciated, door panel is still off until I get an idea of how best to proceed.  Thanks in advance for reading this and for any suggestions offered up
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shnazzle

Interested as I had a couple of instances of this as well
...neutiquam erro.

Carolyn

Quote from: stavros58 on January 10, 2022, 15:39Hi, My Passenger window is working intermittently Sometimes I put it down and it won't go back up again then it decides it will go back up generally after I have driven around a bit which makes me think the vibration of driving helps. The motor power is fine, normal speed and I have switched the fuses. I was going to have a look at the center console switch to see if the connections need cleaning but have no idea what tool to use to get the center console screws out at the front as they are impossible to access without taking the seat out. I've taken the door panel off to look at the connections on the motor but then had no idea which connection it is. Any help would be appreciated, door panel is still off until I get an idea of how best to proceed.  Thanks in advance for reading this and for any suggestions offered up

Taking the seat out is a ten minute job, at most.
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Topdownman

Most people leave the front 2 screws for the centre console off after the first time and just rely on the 2 rear ones.

I have heard that you can use a 90 degree screwdriver to get them out or maybe a bit and some pliers? They are only self tappers into a piece of metal so no great torque.

The seats are 4 14mm bolts each and then unplug the airbag sensor underneath if you do need to remove them completely.
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Ardent

You can get away with whizzing out the bolts.
Then tilting backrest forward. Allows to tip whole seat back. Revealing the hidden screws.

Quickest easiest. Then as above leave the screws out. Pop them in the ashtray for safe keeping.

stavros58

Hi thanks for your responses, I'm not overly keen on removing the seats and disconnecting the sensors unless absolutely necessary besides the weather is rubbish and I don't have access to a garage so I have bought a tool coming tomorrow which I think will do the job if not I'm sure it will come in handy. The tool is a mini rachet that fits PH driver bits etc in, which I think with a bit of persuasion will slide between the seat and the console, given the seat is flexible to a degree.  https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09DBHM6XT/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item. I'm still not clear looking at the door panel which connector is for the window does anyone have a picture or know of a video on UTube that would help. Another member is kindly sending me a wiring diagram also.
MR2 Chilli Red, final 300 production run for U.K. Hard Top, TTE twin pipes, Alacantra leather. Pre registered, no mods but  Brilliant! Favourite quote "I don\'t expect to know what is around the corner but I do at least expect to know where the corner is"

onion86

#6
Quote from: Topdownman on January 10, 2022, 16:11maybe a bit and some pliers? They are only self tappers into a piece of metal so no great torque.
This is how I got them out originally on mine, beats buying yet another tool to use once. Just get the pliers and hold the bit, like this (but obviously with pliers, not mole grips, which possibly won't fit down):


(not my picture)
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Ardent

Just curious.
Can I ask as to the reluctance to removing 4 bolts?

Using the method I described. You would not need to disconnect any wiring as the seat is not being removed. Just tilted to allow access.

Removing the bolts is no more than changing a wheel. Less so.

The bolts are not highly torqued. Only about 35 or 40nm.

cyclehead

The problem is most likely crud on the copper contacts, inside the console switch.  Remove the switch and pry it open with small screwdrivers.  The housing has plastic latches.  Inside there are two small copper pieces, scrub the contact surfaces with sandpaper or scotchbite.
If you can't get the front control screws out, then loosen the seats to make some more room.  There are only four bolts holding them to the floor. No need to completely remove the seats from the car.
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stavros58

The above info is very helpful and I'm hoping it is just the contacts on the console switch. I'm assuming the four bolts mentioned will be the bolts that bolt down the seat rails, one which is covered by a plastic shroud is that correct? I was hesitant to remove the bolts and seats as a previous post recommended disconnecting the airbag sensor as well and I'm always a bit nervous disconnecting stuff I'm not familiar with.
MR2 Chilli Red, final 300 production run for U.K. Hard Top, TTE twin pipes, Alacantra leather. Pre registered, no mods but  Brilliant! Favourite quote "I don\'t expect to know what is around the corner but I do at least expect to know where the corner is"

Topdownman

Yes, you remove the plastic cover to show the 4th bolt. If you need to take the seats out now or in the future, you have to tilt it up so you can get at the connector which is pushed into a hole on the seat base. This just identifies the weight of a passenger sat in the seat so both airbags go off in an accident, its not going to set off the airbag. From memory, you just push in one part to free the plug.

If you do take them out, its a good time to vacuum the carpet!

A good tip for cleaning switch contacts is to use a rubber (like on the end of a pencil!) to rub over all contacts. This can work even if the contacts look completely clean with no corrosion.
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stavros58

That's great thanks weather permitting I'll have a go tomorrow.
MR2 Chilli Red, final 300 production run for U.K. Hard Top, TTE twin pipes, Alacantra leather. Pre registered, no mods but  Brilliant! Favourite quote "I don\'t expect to know what is around the corner but I do at least expect to know where the corner is"

Ardent

@stavros58

Ironically, nothing to do with your issue. But @Joesson popped a link in earlier.
Regards dropping a fuel tank.
But to do so. Requires removing the seats.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=guFHV9Aphto&feature=emb_rel_end

Worth watching just that bit. Comes in nice and early.

shnazzle

I followed Onion86s method above. I couldn't even tell you were thr front screws are. They were never put back in :)
...neutiquam erro.

Ardent

Like the weight saving ethos. Hardcore. :)

stavros58

Thanks, Ardent the video is excellent and gives me the confidence to try and sort out my problem thanks again very much appreciated.
MR2 Chilli Red, final 300 production run for U.K. Hard Top, TTE twin pipes, Alacantra leather. Pre registered, no mods but  Brilliant! Favourite quote "I don\'t expect to know what is around the corner but I do at least expect to know where the corner is"

stavros58

All taken apart but the switch decided not to come apart as it had a hairline crack possibly since manufacture in it. I decided to give it a very thorough spray more like a bath with electrical contact cleaner lifting the small rubber cover under the top of the switch. Then after working the switch for a while it became much smoother with a more noticeable click. It's all back together now and working although only time will tell if it's going to be reliable. I have as advised left the 2 impossible to reach screws out of the console to no detriment to the console so any further work on the switches etc should be a lot less of a pain. Thanks everyone for all your help and advice all very much appreciated.
MR2 Chilli Red, final 300 production run for U.K. Hard Top, TTE twin pipes, Alacantra leather. Pre registered, no mods but  Brilliant! Favourite quote "I don\'t expect to know what is around the corner but I do at least expect to know where the corner is"

Ardent

@stavros58

That's what we're here for.
Glad to hear things are operating as they should.

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