Exhaust off for sub frame removal?

[BARNPOT2000]

So just to clarify, does the exhaust always need to be removed to allow the rear subframe to be removed and replaced please? I am on the cusp of the subframe extraction and would like to leave the exhaust intact if at all possible. I've seen threads with opposing views. BTW I have the TTE twin exhaust.

[Carolyn]

I would have thought removing the cat should suffice.

[BARNPOT2000]

I would have thought removing the cat should suffice.

Thanks Carolyn, that's a shame, I was hoping with a bit of jiggery pokery to wiggle it through. Just a new crush gasket needed then I'm assuming?

[Carolyn]

Thanks Carolyn, that's a shame, I was hoping with a bit of jiggery pokery to wiggle it through. Just a new crush gasket needed then I'm assuming?

Two crush rings.  Get OEM.

[Ardent]

I think it can can be removed with cat in place.
1, if its in the air.
2, everything is detached from it. Heat sheields etc.
3, it follows a sort of Corkscrew path.
4, did I have a standard cat at the time.
(Not sure)
Regardless.
5. Absolutely much easier if the cat is removed as C says.

[J88TEO]

ditto with the cat pipe removed...

[BARNPOT2000]

I think it can can be removed with cat in place.
1, if its in the air.
2, everything is detached from it. Heat sheields etc.
3, it follows a sort of Corkscrew path.
4, did I have a standard cat at the time.
(Not sure)
Regardless.
5. Absolutely much easier if the cat is removed as C says.

Just an update, as you say with all arms removed and the heat shield removed from the top of the subframe it corksrewed out a treat. The car is just on axle stands so wheels are off. Just a note this came out with the TTE twin exhaust intact and not lowered so very possible to remove without the need to dislodge the exhaust.. result 👍.

[BARNPOT2000]

Just cleaning up the various bolts to get ready to install the new subframe and have a couple of questions for you knowledgeable lot 😊...
1. The four subframe mounting bolts appear to have a red threadlock on the threads, I assume I need to apply similar when refitting and it will be the stronger non removable version? For the suspension arms etc that might need to come off the weaker blue stuff would be best?
2.The camber bolts that go through the subframe have cleaned up pretty well. Thought about just getting new but then saw the price, and cleaned them up a bit more 😳. Thing is one washer has almost lost all the scale marks due to surface corrosion. Will this hinder a garage setting the alignment, I'm assuming not?

[Ardent]

Re point 2.

I cannot see that being an issue.
I'm thinking how many crusty ones must be out there that cannot be used either.

[mr2garageswindon]

I did a FL one last week, Toe arms still on (Seized bolts) moved anti roll bar (Drop links till attached) I did remove the bottom exhaust rubber. Twisted out no problems.

[BARNPOT2000]

I did a FL one last week, Toe arms still on (Seized bolts) moved anti roll bar (Drop links till attached) I did remove the bottom exhaust rubber. Twisted out no problems.

Did you apply any threadlock to any of the bolts when you installed the new one please? Im thinking it might be wise but will the blue one do?

[BARNPOT2000]

Today I installed the new subframe and returned the suspensions arms and struts to there rightful places. I've ordered a couple of new nuts for the rear lower suspension arm ball joint as this part is non-reusable. I am anticipating a bit of a fight to keep the ball joint still while I torque it up, has anyone got any tips please? If it was a vertical joint it would be easier to apply pressure to the back of it whilst tightening but this one sits behind the hub horizontally. I do not have an impact/airline driver so it will be good old fashioned spanners and sockets. I was think maybe a rachet strap to pull it in tight wrapped around the driveshaft?? Any suggestions most welcome to reduce the amount of inevitable cursing...

[mr2garageswindon]

Today I installed the new subframe and returned the suspensions arms and struts to there rightful places. I've ordered a couple of new nuts for the rear lower suspension arm ball joint as this part is non-reusable. I am anticipating a bit of a fight to keep the ball joint still while I torque it up, has anyone got any tips please? If it was a vertical joint it would be easier to apply pressure to the back of it whilst tightening but this one sits behind the hub horizontally. I do not have an impact/airline driver so it will be good old fashioned spanners and sockets. I was think maybe a rachet strap to pull it in tight wrapped around the driveshaft?? Any suggestions most welcome to reduce the amount of inevitable cursing...

If you have a large pair of pipe grips you can apply pressure behind the ball joint at an angle to the side of the nut to hold it together. I would apply some coarse valve grinding paste to the taper on the ball joint which helps stop it spinning while doing it up.. Shhh trade secret...

[BARNPOT2000]

If you have a large pair of pipe grips you can apply pressure behind the ball joint at an angle to the side of the nut to hold it together. I would apply some coarse valve grinding paste to the taper on the ball joint which helps stop it spinning while doing it up.. Shhh trade secret...

Thanks, I'll try that 👍.

[BARNPOT2000]

Just a quick update, rear suspension all torqued up and took her for a quick ride around to check for any untoward noises. No noises but wow, alignment must be way out now, it felt like I was driving on a bed of marbles, tyres squealing like I was flooring it and only doing 20 or 30 mph. I limped back home.i know it will need  a full 4 wheel alignment done and I'll be booking it in at a local garage but has anyone else experienced this after suspension refresh? It has had 4 x kyb shocks, Tein 30mm lowerering springs, new front wishbones and drop link along with whiteline uprated arbs front and rear. I didn't expect it to be so "out". Hoping it's nothing more serious 🤞.

[Ardent]

100% perfectly normal.

[BARNPOT2000]

100% perfectly normal.

That's reassuring, thanks. It just shows how important the alignment is I guess 😎👍.

[BARNPOT2000]

When I book the car in for the alignment is it important to have a garage with experience of our particular cars, or will any garage do? Also will the changes I've made, ie. Lowering springs and uprated arbs affect the alignment settings? Would you expect a decent mechanic to sort all this out and adjust settings accordingly?

[Ardent]

No. No. Maybe. Yes.

It is worth paying for a quality geo. It's the technician and knowledge you are paying for. A proper tech will ask what you want and dial it in.

I had the same situation as you. New sub frame, kyb's, tein S and tyres. Was not until I had the geo done did it come together as a complete package.

[BARNPOT2000]

No. No. Maybe. Yes.

It is worth paying for a quality geo. It's the technician and knowledge you are paying for. A proper tech will ask what you want and dial it in.

I had the same situation as you. New sub frame, kyb's, tein S and tyres. Was not until I had the geo done did it come together as a complete package.

Thanks, I've got a local garage that my neighbour has recommended ringing me back this morning. When you say they will ask what I want hopefully you don't mean specific figures as I wouldn't know where to start 😕. I can tell them it's for road use only, not track use, that's about it, oh, and it needs to stick to the road like glue and go around corners like it's on rails 😂.

[BARNPOT2000]

Has anyone got any advice as to the settings required for a 4 wbeel alignment after fitting 30mm lowering springs please? Garage can do standard settings but is concerned that because of shorter springs alignment may not be correct.

[Ardent]

Thanks, I've got a local garage that my neighbour has recommended ringing me back this morning. When you say they will ask what I want hopefully you don't mean specific figures as I wouldn't know where to start 😕. I can tell them it's for road use only, not track use, that's about it, oh, and it needs to stick to the road like glue and go around corners like it's on rails 😂.

That's what I meant. They asked my usage, I said B road bandit. They did rest.
Good chance my settings are in here somewhere.
Search combo, ardent wheels in motion geometry etc

[Ardent]

The Mr T TTE lowering springs are lower. But nowhere is it written that the geo has to be changed.

[BARNPOT2000]

The Mr T TTE lowering springs are lower. But nowhere is it written that the geo has to be changed.

Thanks, yes I've been "googling" and other 30mm lowering springs are advertised as needing standard geometry set up so, fingers crossed it'll be fine with that. I've spoken to other garages who say they would do a standard set up then tweek it if suspension has been lowered.

[BARNPOT2000]

The Mr T TTE lowering springs are lower. But nowhere is it written that the geo has to be changed.

This gives me some confidence that a standard set up will work with 30mm lowering 👍😎.