Horrific 2zz Black MR-S bodge work "track car"

Started by threepot, May 30, 2022, 15:05

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threepot

Would be good, but it's a bit far for me at the moment. Keep smashing Oulton as its 30 minutes door to door so I can get back home to eat tea with the kids.... looking forwards to longer day light hours and 5 degrees more ambient temps too.

But I'll keep my fingers crossed for some good weather for you, even a sprinkling of blue skies and sunshine too.

threepot

I've fitted a set of these easybleed caliper nipples, they have a 1 way valve in them, so you can just crack them open, pump 8 times etc and close. Makes getting some fresh fluid into the calipers a total doddle, with 1 person bleeding so not having the ask the wife or friend etc to pump the pedal the night before a track day.





They use M7 x 1.0 pitch threads, and I got the set of four here for £13...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233213887123


As for the eye watering expensive Carbotech pads, I'm running XP10 fronts and XP8 rears...

Totally blown away at the braking performance on stock calipers and blue print OEM spec disks. If you bring the brakes in smoothly and ramp up the pressure (so you don't just lock up), you can press harder and harder crushing the front end of the car into the tarmac. All passengers have commented that the car is nuts in the braking zones.

But the main reason I'm posting this is the wear rate is fantastic, 4 track days in and there is barely anything gone off them. I'd be fitting the 3rd set of yellow rears at this point and maybe just about due for a 2nd set of fronts. Carbotech pads were expensive, but I'm pretty confident they are going to work out cheaper due to the wear rate.




thetyrant

Quote from: threepot on December 14, 2022, 13:35As for the eye watering expensive Carbotech pads, I'm running XP10 fronts and XP8 rears...

Totally blown away at the braking performance on stock calipers and blue print OEM spec disks. If you bring the brakes in smoothly and ramp up the pressure (so you don't just lock up), you can press harder and harder crushing the front end of the car into the tarmac. All passengers have commented that the car is nuts in the braking zones.

But the main reason I'm posting this is the wear rate is fantastic, 4 track days in and there is barely anything gone off them. I'd be fitting the 3rd set of yellow rears at this point and maybe just about due for a 2nd set of fronts. Carbotech pads were expensive, but I'm pretty confident they are going to work out cheaper due to the wear rate.

Good to hear our pads are working well :D  i was pretty confident you would be impressed :) 

Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

JB21

Carbotech are ace. I've gone with PBS pro race this time around to see what they're like. I've got a feeling they will be false economy.

J88TEO

Quote from: threepot on December 14, 2022, 13:35easybleed caliper nipples, they have a 1 way valve in them
Thanks for the tip!
Just ordered 4.

threepot

Quote from: thetyrant on December 15, 2022, 10:58Good to hear our pads are working well :D  i was pretty confident you would be impressed :) 

Impresses I am indeed! The compound is a wonderful recipe.

Carbotech are totally missing a party trick = No rice stickers in the box  ;)

Alex Knight

I too have made the switch from Yellowstuff pads to Carbotech (XP10 all round), and am still using Blueprint discs and stock calipers.
I've also got goodridge braided lines and motul RBF600 fluid.

The brakes are there and strong every time, and the pedal feel is resolutely consistent. That's all you can ask for, and that's what I've got. Highly recommended too.

AJRFulton

Looking forward to trying the XP8 pads, bought them ages ago but cars never been out on them.

JB21

I'd like to try XP12 front and XP10 rear, as I still struggle to fire the ABS using XP10 front and XP8 rears when using slicks on a warm day. I'm also using MTEC c-hook discs and RBF660 fluid.

thetyrant

Quote from: threepot on December 15, 2022, 13:24Impresses I am indeed! The compound is a wonderful recipe.

Carbotech are totally missing a party trick = No rice stickers in the box  ;)

We used to send out stickers with pads but i got sick of nobody putting them on as they promised so havent had anymore made this year and now ive ran out, will get batch done next year though i think :)
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

threepot

Quote from: JB21 on December 16, 2022, 08:43I still struggle to fire the ABS using XP10 front and XP8 rears when using slicks on a warm day

Once the tyres have enough grip, and you actually create enough braking force... the next thing is bending those tin pressed front wish bones  :))  maybe start to bend the dampers chrome tube bit!

Have a little think about the amount of energy/forces getting generated stopping a 1000kg item from 105mph to 50mph in 20 metres ! If you could accelerate as quick as that, this would be some serious machine  >:D

These cars are manufactured as just little Tony and Guy Salon racers... but what we are using them for at this stage is starting to get pretty serious stuff.

Joesson

Quote from: J88TEO on December 15, 2022, 13:23Thanks for the tip!
Just ordered 4.

They did work well when I first used them in the 1960's.
On my next car, having left them on my previous, I tried this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automatic-Brake-or-Clutch-Bleed-Tube-PWN189-25-cm-Long-Rubber-Bleeding-Pipe/371718568796?pageci=2f200531-23e5-4bc1-a484-676f0b0e5b1c&epid=19017017159&redirect=mobile

A simple length of rubber tube with an open and stopped end and a razor slit in the tubing to form a one way valve.
Can also be used on other car brakes and the clutch.
Probably requires marginally more brake fluid to use the tube against the bleed nipple valve which can be used without a tube to catch the fluid but does then make a mess.
I lost my original split tube over my many years of company cars, when I had no need of it, but got another tube when I started to service my 2.

threepot

#137
So Project Horrific... well getting less horrific - to be fair she stands pretty good nowadays.

I was going to spend tonight fabricating up a light weight tubular rear crash member, I fancy the rear bumper cut at the back - originally when I was buying the car it came with a light weight rear cross member and chopped bumper, but Matt wanted to keep it when bartering on the car price, seemed to think it was of great value. I said he could keep it, but I never realised at the time it had a front one too.

Since messing with the car I found the light weight front crash bar but never looked too hard - looked OK from the front  :))  :))

I thought before I fabricate the back one tonight, I'll see how they have done the front one, so I took it off and found this beautiful craftsmanship.....






Bugger me, if I'd crashed this thing even pretty gently that would have peeled open like a banana! It was literally just welded a bit at the front, then spray painted up just on the front side. Really it should go in the scrap pile and get started again, but I don't have enough material or time to go again right at this month. No way could I leave it like that....

Now look away people with any actual welding skills, because its threepot welding time!! I'm not so sure Auto Electricans should be legallly permitted to even own a welder  :-X  - it like letting a plumber rewire your house - its not pretty but its not going to fall apart any time soon. At least its all boxed in and seamed up everywhere....





threepot

I've weighed the stock rear crash cross bar one at 3971g, so after I do the chop and grind game I'll weigh that to see if it saves much. Doing the rear bumper chop will also result in a fair bit of plastic getting ditched too.

My light weight front cross member is now 3734g (I suspect this one isn't that light weight) does anyone know the weight of a stock one?

threepot

Who ever took this rear crash bar on and off in the past certainly took no prisoners....



4 out of 6 are completely mullered.

Some more thread repair is necessary - makes a change on this car  :-X

Might end up in thread sizes most of the members round here can better relate to... bit of whitworth!

Carolyn

Quote from: threepot on January 15, 2023, 14:46Who ever took this rear crash bar on and off in the past certainly took no prisoners....

4 out of 6 are completely mullered.

Some more thread repair is necessary - makes a change on this car  :-X

Might end up in thread sizes most of the members round here can better relate to... bit of whitworth!

Who you callin' old??  Mind you we do have drawers full of Whitworth stuff.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Joesson

Quote from: Carolyn on January 15, 2023, 15:24Who you callin' old??  Mind you we do have drawers full of Whitworth stuff.
@threepot said:
Might end up in thread sizes most of the members round here can better relate to... bit of whitworth!

Can't speak for the older member's on here, having only been around myself since the coming of the Atomic age but the changes in measurement (that of course relate to thread sizes) have been ongoing for some time, and still are:

https://ukma.org.uk/what-is-metric/uk-progress/uk-metric-timeline/

threepot

Imperial, it's dimensions I don't think I could ever comprehend unless aided with mind altering substances. 2BA, UNF, 7/16th's... what does it mean???!!

But with help from the past, I discovered strange lost ancient technology very similar to an M10, but just a bit smaller... my saviour, I present to you 3/8x16 UNC





They told me at the shop my application did not have enough brass to permit the use of Whitworth.

Although to my suprise, I managed to get 3/8ths UNC nuts with a 14mm hex head. What sort of strange world is this?

So this completes the rear bumper chop shop for now, ready for Oulton park any day weather permitting:-



Joesson

@threepot said:

They told me at the shop my application did not have enough brass to permit the use of Whitworth.

As mentioned I arrived with the Atomic age and so am aware of the various Imperial and other traditionalmeasures but I am not aware of a requirement for an ample sufficiency of brass to permit the use of a Whitworth thread.
The shop person may have been alluding to the brass in your pocket. Pretty sure that brass is not a constituent of steel of any type.

threepot

Quote from: Joesson on January 18, 2023, 09:28I am not aware of a requirement for an ample sufficiency of brass to permit the use of a Whitworth thread.
The shop person may have been alluding to the brass in your pocket. Pretty sure that brass is not a constituent of steel of any type.

I was lead to believe I need polished brass gauges, a flat cap and the scent of pipe tobacco, or a lister diesel engine to be Whitworth compatible.

Joesson

Quote from: threepot on January 18, 2023, 16:08I was lead to believe I need polished brass gauges, a flat cap and the scent of pipe tobacco, or a lister diesel engine to be Whitworth compatible.

Likely not too far off the mark,  but not if you are a plumber!

threepot

Well I never, I have learnt something in all this cheek! British Standard Pipe actually is a Whitworth thread, just tailored around the external pipe sizes. Some things live on and on.

AJRFulton

Quote from: threepot on January 18, 2023, 21:35Well I never, I have learnt something in all this cheek! British Standard Pipe actually is a Whitworth thread, just tailored around the external pipe sizes. Some things live on and on.

You'd love working on some of our systems at my work. British designed nuclear reactor, American boilers, American/British turbines, built around the time we changed to metric.....

Whitworth, Whitworth fine, UNC, UNF, BSP then the usual metric ISO threaded stuff, and sure I've missed a few. Often all found on the same system too.

Borrowing bolts from the store can be a right lottery.

threepot

It's good to know British Nuclear energy is buttoned up appropriately! I guess you work at Hunterston being in Ayrshire?

Being born at the start of Thatcherism, fractions are something I've not grown up with. My money has always been counted in 10's, and have always had access to digital calculators. Which is bigger - 7/16 or 3/8 .... that take me a minute to think about!

Joesson

Quote from: AJRFulton on January 18, 2023, 23:55You'd love working on some of our systems at my work. British designed nuclear reactor, American boilers, American/British turbines, built around the time we changed to metric.....

Whitworth, Whitworth fine, UNC, UNF, BSP then the usual metric ISO threaded stuff, and sure I've missed a few. Often all found on the same system too.

Borrowing bolts from the store can be a right lottery.

As can selecting the correct spanner/ socket I guess!