Koni inserts

Started by J88TEO, August 21, 2022, 17:41

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J88TEO

So today I finally get to start.
Dismantle the old struts ( courtesy of @Smithy ) and the shocks turned out to be original Toyota ones!
AS per guide I centre punched the bottom of the shocks and drilled the pilot holes and drained the oil.
Photos to follow....

Nvy

Be sure to use Koni youtube guide to measure where to cut. Had this problem and wrote a thread about it

Call the midlife!

Quote from: Nvy on August 21, 2022, 20:38Be sure to use Koni youtube guide to measure where to cut. Had this problem and wrote a thread about it
Agreed, the measurements in the instructions with the inserts are wrong for the rears.
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO

Cool.
Thanks for that.

Gaz mr-s

If you're using an angle grinder I suggest cutting them high-up, separate the rod out, then you have a simpler cut for the real one.

Beachbum957

The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct.  65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter.  The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.

But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm.  This was verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert.  The most you can cut on the rear is about 40 mm and still have the centering "nubs" on the insert body fit inside the housing.

Call the midlife!

Quote from: Beachbum957 on August 22, 2022, 11:01The Koni instructions are not correct or rather partially correct.  65mm is correct for the front as that is right at the point the housing flares out to the larger diameter.  The boot for the shock body on the front will bottom on the spring mount.

But the rear should be cut just below the "cap" on the strut or about 30 mm.  This was verified with an old strut and a worn out rear Koni insert.  The most you can cut on the rear is about 40 mm and still have the centering "nubs" on the insert body fit inside the housing.
The Koni video advises to measure the insert from top of the cylinder to the nub and then subtract 6mm (I think at least, best to check first 😂) works fine for the rears. At least it did on the second one after already cutting the first to the instructions at 65mm as I'd done the fronts first and had no issues.
The instructions included aren't really the best.
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO


Call the midlife!

Let us know how you get on trying to torque the top nuts up...👍🏻
60% of the time it works everytime...

J88TEO

Am doing this very slowly ( not much time on my hands as I have a 2 year old ) so will be quite a wait!  ;D

Gaz mr-s

Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 22, 2022, 15:20Let us know how you get on trying to torque the top nuts up...👍🏻

@J88TEO, if the top mount 'D' fit is iffy, using a narrow chisel (or perhaps a big screwdriver) the straight edge of it can be massaged to make it a tighter fit.

J88TEO

Noted with thanks.
Cheers.

J88TEO

Cut the front 65mm and rear 30mm, as recommended.
Drilled the 14mm holes for the bolts.
Now to clean up and send for powder coating.