fitting rubber seal rear caliper

Started by Mollydog, December 5, 2022, 20:06

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Carolyn

Quote from: Mollydog on December  8, 2022, 17:44just to report back, I think I was doing it wrong,  it's firmly seated in now so will fit the calliper back on the car in the morning

I was going to give up but for the encouragement on here, it made me persevere, once I got one side firmly down the other side seemed with a little nudge to just slide in



Well done, Sir. Nothing like a little victory is there?
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Ardent


Joesson

Quote from: Mollydog on December  8, 2022, 17:44just to report back, I think I was doing it wrong,  it's firmly seated in now so will fit the calliper back on the car in the morning

I was going to give up but for the encouragement on here, it made me persevere, once I got one side firmly down the other side seemed with a little nudge to just slide in




Patience/ Persistence two very useful tool box tools.

Mollydog

I made a start on the calliper early this morning, fore sure the frost was still on the car



Red rubber grease on the two moving parts on the calliper





Tools at the ready to bleed the clipper



I've heard and read/viewed (YouTube) how very difficult it is to re assemble the brake cable to the calliper at the Clevis Pin hole, so I used one of my F clamps, this made it very easy, in fact I had to un tighten the F clamp as I had it closer to the hand brake cable than was needed





The Clevis pin just slid in with very little pressure



All the way in



Topped off with the split pin



I bought the Clevis pins from Amazon around £8 for 12, I don't know what to do with the extra 10 yet

Carolyn

You will need to slacken the handbrake cable all the way off in order to set the brake properly, so connecting the clevis under tension is really not the best approach.  Hey ho!

Red rubber grease is also not really meant for sliders.  May I recommend some 'Ceratec' or other silicon grease for that job?

But - hey you're doing it and that's a good thing.

Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Mollydog

I've booked the car in to where I have it MOT'd for next Thursday, getting them to test the brakes on their MOT rollers and if needed to do the minor adjustments for me,

thank you for these tips Carolyn, in this case, this weekend I'll have the centre console out and adjust the hand brake cable, I'm sure the garage won't know the procedure to take out the seats and console out

It did cross my mind if I should of  adjusted the hand brake cables,

One thing has me a bit puzzled, in this image I'm using the old pad to show what I did

Viewing YouTube I made sure this pin on the inner pad



And the slot on the piston lined up (like this)





now I'm thinking how is the piston able to wind out as the pad wear down, would it be due to the large gap in the piston slots?




Carolyn

#31
The rod it screws onto rotates.  A bit like a screw jack.

If the piston could rotate it wouldn't work.  Hence the slot and nipple to prevent rotation.

Have a look at adjusting the handbrake in our 'how to' section.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Mollydog

Made a start on the car this morning, the cable balance leaver was tighter to the near side cable as opposed to the far side (drive side) both when cable was slake (brake off) or tight (brake on) would this be an issue?



Both my exposed part of the cable ends at the callipers don't have the rubber boot/covering,  I noticed when pulling the cable out it was damp/water around the cable, I don't know if all cables are the same but this has it's wire strands  covered in a plastic sheath



I did as Carolyn mentioned and un clipped the cables at the calliper end and pumped the brake peddle 20 times firm but at a steady rhythm

I finally adjusted the hand brake cable to get five clicks (is this a good choice or should I go for 6 or 7 clicks?) on the handle but the balance leaver still to one side,  I presume both cables are the same length







On my last MOT I was told my off side hand brake passed but was slightly weaker than my near side

Here's my YouTube clip of my cable and the tools I use to lift the car on it's axle stands

https://youtu.be/zDuWloLGw0I

Ardent

As you can imagine. The saddle should be balanced.

Sadly, something is not right there.
Cable length?

Carolyn

The offside cable is stretched.

When I've come across cables that are wet inside, I've disconnected them at both ends, making sure the bottom ends are pointed down to let the water drain, then (while working the cable back and forth), dribbled WD or the like in from the top until the WD appears at the other end.  Then repeat with light machine oil (3 in 1) until that oil appears at the other end.

You can get cable-end gaiters that are for the MGF that will squeeze on with some lube and effort.

They are pretty much due for replacement, I'm afraid, which is a biggish job, as the tank has to be lowered to get at the support brackets.  The should be done as matched pair.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Ardent

Something you only want to do once. Despite the cost. For peace of mind. Oem.

If you have the time. As someone hs done, order from Japan. Cheaper. Sad but true.

Mollydog

Thank you for this advice, I'll go over them tomorrow with the WD40 followed by the 3 in 1 oil down the cable

Replacing the cables will be a job for the warmer months, no harm buying the cable now, ready for the job

Much as it's cold I do enjoy working on the car