How much should I expect to get the pre-cats gutted?

[Asura]

If I was to get the 1zz pre-cats gutted, how much should I expect to pay for the service?

[Ardent]

Most, if they were going to.
Now just swap out for an aftermarket header. Cheaper.

If nothing wrong with them. Leave them alone.

The Internet has a lot to answer for.

[Joesson]

I've put a "like" for @Ardent 'S post although that was the first job I did myself on my 2 when I bought it in June 2011. Prior to that I had it serviced by Mr T.
I would not have done either if I knew then what I know now.

[Carolyn]

 Ardent it talking good sense!

You can remove the two sensors and have a look at their condition.  If the matrices are in good nick, there's no advantage in gutting them.  If the engine is using oil, the matrix will tend to crumble over time, so it's a good idea to gut them in that case.

If you're comfortable with taking the manifold off the car (which really should be done if they are to be 'gutted'), knocking the old matrix out is not difficult, just be very thorough and get all traces of it out. (The dust is very abrasive and can get back into the engine.)

If you have the job done by a mechanic, around £120 -£140 seems about right.

However, the empty cans make a pretty poor exhaust manifold, so you might want to consider installing a Toyosports manifold in it's place. It will scavenge the gasses much better than empty cans. Either way you'll need new manifold to head and crush-ring gaskets (another £20-30).

[Dev]

 I did not know mechanics will do that kind of work in the UK. Over here it is refused because it is highly illegal. The way around it is to have them replace the manifold without the mechanic obviously knowing he is messing with the emission system.

[Call the midlife!]

Add to the mix that the material that makes up the precats is highly hazardous to health you might struggle to get anyone to do it now, or at least they'll likely charge a premium to recover and safely dispose of the waste.
Generally you'll get at least half the price of a replacement such as Toyosports by cashing the old one in intact.

[Asura]

Hmm interesting. I thought about gutting them because I thought it would be cheaper to do so and because of preventing any pre-cat failure is better than the cure of one.

I've put a "like" for @Ardent 'S post although that was the first job I did myself on my 2 when I bought it in June 2011. Prior to that I had it serviced by Mr T.
I would not have done either if I knew then what I know now.

What is it that you now know that made you perhaps regret the decision?

[Asura]

Add to the mix that the material that makes up the precats is highly hazardous to health you might struggle to get anyone to do it now, or at least they'll likely charge a premium to recover and safely dispose of the waste.
Generally you'll get at least half the price of a replacement such as Toyosports by cashing the old one in intact.

So I'm better off in replacing it with a toyosports header?

[Ardent]

@Asura

Is there any thing to suggest there is a problem now?
If there isn't and the car has been well maintained, unlikely there will be problem with the pre cats.
Are you using much oil?

As per #3 above. Have you looked at the pre-cats?
Just bear in mind, if you do disturb the O2 sensors, it is very common to throw a sensor code 10 miles down the road.
Easy to do, but they really don't like being disturbed.

Maybe save it for later.
Money could be better spent on a good old fashioned service.
Or go towards tyres if needed.

[Call the midlife!]

So I'm better off in replacing it with a toyosports header?

If you decide you want rid of the precats then generally yes, better off replacing the whole manifold with a tubular one and cashing the precat one in at a recyclers.
Which tubular one you choose is a different matter, depends how much you want to pay but the Toyosports ones are usually of a good standard.

[Asura]

If you decide you want rid of the precats then generally yes, better off replacing the whole manifold with a tubular one and cashing the precat one in at a recyclers.
Which tubular one you choose is a different matter, depends how much you want to pay but the Toyosports ones are usually of a good standard.

Ah, got it! I'm guessing as long as the car is plenty warm, it should pass MOT in theory?

[Gaz mr-s]

Ah, got it! I'm guessing as long as the car is plenty warm, it should pass MOT in theory?

The ceramic material in the manifold only affects the first few mins of running......California had to have them so everywhere got them.  No effect on main cat emissions.

[Asura]

@Asura

Is there any thing to suggest there is a problem now?
If there isn't and the car has been well maintained, unlikely there will be problem with the pre cats.
Are you using much oil?

As per #3 above. Have you looked at the pre-cats?
Just bear in mind, if you do disturb the O2 sensors, it is very common to throw a sensor code 10 miles down the road.
Easy to do, but they really don't like being disturbed.

Maybe save it for later.
Money could be better spent on a good old fashioned service.
Or go towards tyres if needed.

I can't really tell since I haven't driven it much. But it's more of a preventative thing. I'll definitly get an inital check on the pre-cats just so I know what options i have and be able to save up well in advanced. I bought the car for a decent price from someone over the facebook owners group. I got it at the price in hopes of learning the car and working on it on my own soon. 

given it's done 6k miles over the past year, I will definitley get it fully serviced. I know i have to get the abs lights checked (could be due to the sensors being clogged?) and have the auxilary belt swapped out. After getting a good old service done, I then plan on attempting future works on my own to learn.

[Joesson]

Hmm interesting. I thought about gutting them because I thought it would be cheaper to do so and because of preventing any pre-cat failure is better than the cure of one.

What is it that you now know that made you perhaps regret the decision?

When I bought my 2 I had read about the damage to their engines caused by the breakdown of the pre cats.
I also asked my local Mr T about servicing costs and signed up for a 3 year contract starting after the first service, on the day after my purchase. In between services I did remove the pre cats based on my reading at that time, and a Mr T mechanic mentioned the slightly different tone of the engine and accepted that what I had done was not unusual.
It wasn't until 2013 that I found and joined MR2ROC.
I read then that the breakdown of the pre cats is most likely to be caused by oil in the exhaust gas in turn caused by oval cylinders , caused by sticking rings, caused by infrequent oil and filter changes. I also read that a member on here was past 200k in his 2 having very regularly changed the oil and filter.
Impressed with MrT's servicing I was not and did not renew the contract.
I started then to service and maintain the car myself, something that I had not done for some time as I had company cars much of my working life.
Removing the exhaust manifold to de cat on my "new" 2 was my up close introduction and got me into doing it myself and with help from on here.
Would I have exchanged the manifold, knowing what I know now, probably not as my car had been regularly serviced before my ownership.
Seldom mentioned is the question of advising your insurer specifically about the replacement manifold, that being a clearly visible modification.

[Ardent]

@Asura  That would seem the ideal place to start.

Do your own service.
Plugs straight forward.
Air filter. Easy.
Oil and filter. Easy. Easier still if no nappies. (rear plastic undertray thingies)
Go mad and have a couple of bosch aerotwin wipers.
A MAF clean. A favorite extra special love and care procedure of the ROC. Super easy and free to do.
All easy to do. All cheap.
The most expensive thing is what oil you go for. Which is up to you.

Thats it service done.
Repalcing the gear oil is dobale but more fiddly.
Helps if you have access to a ramp.

Move on to a brake system bleed later.

[Carolyn]

All the jobs you mention are covered on our 'How To' section.  Have a look, from doing service to changing the belt.

It might give you the confidence to get stuck in!

[Petrus]

the replacement manifold, that being a clearly visible modification.

I bought a tubular with brackets for the heat shields and it is thus a near invisible modification 

On a side note, the hourly rate here at the local I use is 15 - 18€. Also he charges me less for the exact same full synthetic oil than I have to pay at the coop. 

[Asura]

@Asura  That would seem the ideal place to start.

Do your own service.
Plugs straight forward.
Air filter. Easy.
Oil and filter. Easy. Easier still if no nappies. (rear plastic undertray thingies)
Go mad and have a couple of bosch aerotwin wipers.
A MAF clean. A favorite extra special love and care procedure of the ROC. Super easy and free to do.
All easy to do. All cheap.
The most expensive thing is what oil you go for. Which is up to you.

Thats it service done.
Repalcing the gear oil is dobale but more fiddly.
Helps if you have access to a ramp.

Move on to a brake system bleed later.

Yeah the gearbox oil and brake bleed will be for a later time. immediate attention is towards the engine in terms of oil, spark plugs etc. Should have an acess to a ramp soon!

[Ardent]

Nice and easy if you have a ramp.
But oil n filter doable without.

Sparkies and air filter. Easy access.

[TheTigerUK]

How many miles on a set of plugs before changing ?

[Joesson]

How many miles on a set of plugs before changing ?

At one time spark plugs were cleaned in garages by sand blasting or with a brass bristled brush if diy'ing. After cleaning they would be re gapped.
A visual inspection of the tip can show erosion and the colour is an indicator of the engines state of health. A biscuit colour shows all is well.
As for mileage I believe this depends upon the health of the engine and the type of driving conditions. Stop start motoring will soot the plugs, lots of high speed motorway driving can over heat them and they will be white. From 10k  miles for standard plugs  to 60k miles or more for platinum plugs is quoted as typical.
The plug needs to be removed to check its condition and I doubt that a garage today would bother with doing that without replacing with a new plug, and charging for it.
For DIY servicing a review of the plugs condition is the way to determine if a brush up and re gap  will suffice or replacement is necessary. Replacement costs vary dramatically dependent upon type with some claimed advantage of improved mpg and/ or longevity from platinum tips.

[TheTigerUK]

At one time spark plugs were cleaned in garages by sand blasting or with a brass bristled brush if diy'ing. After cleaning they would be re gapped.
A visual inspection of the tip can show erosion and the colour is an indicator of the engines state of health. A biscuit colour shows all is well.
As for mileage I believe this depends upon the health of the engine and the type of driving conditions. Stop start motoring will soot the plugs, lots of high speed motorway driving can over heat them and they will be white. 30k miles for standard plugs and 60k miles for platinum plugs is quoted as typical.
The plug needs to be removed to check its condition and I doubt that a garage today would bother with doing that without replacing with a new plug, and charging for it.
For DIY servicing a review of the plugs condition is the way to determine if a brush up and re gap  will suffice or replacement is necessary. Replacement costs vary dramatically dependent upon type with some claimed advantage of improved mpg and/ or longevity from platinum tips.

My dad had a little plug sandblasting machine we always used, we would regularly clean and reset the gaps in our spark plugs along with the checking/renewing the points and timing.

[Joesson]

My dad had a little plug sandblasting machine we always used, we would regularly clean and reset the gaps in our spark plugs along with the checking/renewing the points and timing.

It was then probably more of a regular chore, as I believe that petrol injection gives the spark plugs an easier life than the somewhat less accurate dosage of the carburettor.
I guess you wish you'll kept that little sand blaster!

[Dev]

I believe the change interval for most non DI vehicles that use iridium factory plugs is 100k miles however it is best to replace them at 80k miles. The same with O2 sensors.

[Petrus]

It was then probably more of a regular chore, as I believe that petrol injection gives the spark plugs an easier life than the somewhat less accurate dosage of the carburettor.
I guess you wish you'll kept that little sand blaster!

The points were more of a bugger for the plugs.
Also the burning of nore oil did not help. Modern engines run/burn a lót cleaner.
That observed the material quality and manufacturing of spark plugs has eveolved markedly even though they look the same.