Clutch pedal inspection/adjustment TSB

[JB21]

Need to adjust my clutch pedal but cant find the MR2 MK3 TSB anywhere?

Found the below but its not for an MR2 MK3.

Has anyone got the MR2 version?

[Dev]

I don't but it's relatively easy. Just undo the nut and turn the rod for the adjustment.  I forgot what direction does what but the important thing to remember is to have a little dead space before the clutch is disengaged and you want to make sure that during the travel the clutch is fully disengaged before it contacts the floor.
There is very little "preference" adjustment for the driver.

[thetyrant]

Be very careful they rarely need adjustment unless something else is amiss in my experience, as Dev make sure there is freeplay at top of pedal its very important, also make sure its not over pressing the clutch which will damage the pressure plate, you want it to just disengage from flywheel but not go to far as it soon wrecks the spring plate.

What are you needing to adjust it for out of interest ?

[JB21]

Be very careful they rarely need adjustment unless something else is amiss in my experience, as Dev make sure there is freeplay at top of pedal its very important, also make sure its not over pressing the clutch which will damage the pressure plate, you want it to just disengage from flywheel but not go to far as it soon wrecks the spring plate.

What are you needing to adjust it for out of interest ?

I was struggling to engage 1st with it set in the same position. I had it set very low previously. Guessing the Exedy kit is slightly different spec wise.

I've rotated the rod to bring the pedal and bite up a cm or so and all is good now.

[JB21]

You cannot view this attachment.

Doesn't open mate.

[JB21]

So I've now adjusted the pedal height via the stop bolt and I've got it so the stop bolt just touches the pedal, about 2-3 threads left on the bolt. This is the only way I can get enough freeplay so the clutch fork doesn't move.

I'll hazard a guess this is why I've gone through 2 clutch plates as there's been no free play on the fork, putting pressure on the plate when clutch is fully engaged.

I've now got around 1-2mm rod free play, and around 5mm pedal free play before the fork moves.

Pedal isn't to high either, it sits well below the brake pedal.

[lemans]

Just for interest on this thread I did have to adjust the clutch on my SP240 a few years after having the conversion done. I started having trouble getting into reverse (no matter how carefully I used the clutch pedal) but no issues getting into the forward gears. Every time I engaged reverse the gears would complain very noisily. Very embarrasing in car parks!

When I found out there was some adjustment possible I made a slight adjustment, might only have been about one full turn and the problem dissappeared and (touch wood) has been fine for many years/miles now.

I assumed that the uprated replacement clutch plates needed for the 240 conversion needed some miles to "bed in"

[Dev]

 I have noticed on my car and other owners that I helped after a clutch change it needs a little adjustment probably due to the pressure plate disengagement point of how the fingers sit and possibly some tolerance variation if you use a non OEM throwout bearing.
 If replacing with a factory clutch no adjustment is needed from what I have seen.
 There were a few online and one local to me that had their clutches burn out prematurely within 6 months to a year with good brand clutch and I think this might be the reason or it could be because they did not use the right type of spline grease.