Mushi 虫 - the MR2

[JayPee404]

@JayPee404

For what it's worth with my electronically enhanced hearing your engine does not sound to be in any imminent danger.
As said recently a noise that defies explanation is usually the catalyser heatshield.

Thanks for the reassurance boss, maybe it really is just the cat heatshield. Could just be loose bits in there from the weld that once held it together.

Ticking noises can be down to valve gaps.  We used to do a lot a valve clearance jobs, but nobody seems to be doing it anymore.  There must be loads of cars with noisy valves!

The club still has 'bucket bank' if anyone wants to do their valve clearances.

Interesting, I will look at this process though I can't imagine it's a fun one! What do you mean by bucket bank tho?

[Carolyn]

Thanks for the reassurance boss, maybe it really is just the cat heatshield. Could just be loose bits in there from the weld that once held it together.

Interesting, I will look at this process though I can't imagine it's a fun one! What do you mean by bucket bank tho?

Have a look in the  'How To' section and all will become clear.  I actually really enjoy doing valve clearance jobs. Very satisfying. 

[JayPee404]

So Mushi has slowly been leaking coolant for a while now. In my complacency I ran it as the leak was minimal and I kept her topped up every day.

On Monday, 10 minute drive to work and I notice the fan kicking in abnormally at traffic lights and upon inspection, expansion tank is nearly empty.

Not wanting to wait for a garage to address it, booked Tuesday off and went to town. Fairly straightforward process, was nice to look under the trims and see the state under the frunk. Not nearly as dirty as I had expected given than she rests under a tree at home. Draining and bleeding the system felt pretty easy and my slanted drive proved very useful on this occasion.

Shiny new rad in, no more dribble, no more worries. That's one job done.

Off next week again to tackle the precats.

PS: state of the old rad. Poor thing...

[JayPee404]

Not much has happened since I changed the rad. Awful weather combined with working 2 jobs just leaves me with praying Saturday will be decent for me to get anything done. So far little luck or will.

Did polish the headlights with some success,but everything else  not quite progressing as I would like.

[Joesson]

@JayPee404
Ref #27 the photo of the rad, am I correct in seeing the "damage" is in the rear Lower Left corner of the rad?
If so the same area as my 2002 rad that was in a similar state in May 2013, 11 years old at around 57K.
That means the replacement is now 10 years old at 67k (with just 10k miles usage).

The replacement is coming up to the same age as the OE but with a lot less miles.
Coolant was Toyota Long Life until the rad guarantee ran out and dumped it. Replaced with motor factor " longlife" 50/ 50 with tap water, for around 3 years and in 2019 replaced that with Ravenol 50/50 with deionised water.
The Toyota fluid was expensive, lasted as OE 11 years/ 57k
After market much less costly, and thus far has lasted much the same time but with much less mileage.
I wonder if there is any rhyme, reason or logic to the deterioration of radiators?

[Alex Knight]

@JayPee404I wonder if there is any rhyme, reason or logic to the deterioration of radiators?

Planned obsolescence.

[JayPee404]

am I correct in seeing the "damage" is in the rear Lower Left corner of the rad?

Literally there yeah. I saw a lot of evidence from other owners reporting the exact same failure so it's a common fault. Do wonder what leads to such a specific failure, but at least it makes troubleshooting easy.

Alex probably has it right, but given it's such a small part and easy to change, I can't say it bothers me much. Maybe the MR2 just runs hot and thus the rad has to work extra hard? I have noticed mine stays at temp for quite a good hour after parking it so maybe that takes its toll on the radiator? Or maybe I'm talking non-sense

[JayPee404]

Hello all, it has been a minute.

Sunny September has meant the Roadster has seen plenty of work done to it.

First was oil and oil filter change, as well as sump plug gasket. Easy job, had to put a knife through the old filter to get it out but other than that all changed and not leaking anywhere. I did notice the gearbox is a bit oily which is something to look into further.

But that can wait, as I backed into a curb (don't judge me) and pushed my exhaust in, meaning I got that sweet revvy sound without swapping any parts. Which meant I had to swap all the parts. I'm not actually sure what broke as looking at it it wasn't obvious at all, but I was wanting to replace the exhaust anyway so it was just a good reason to do so.
 
On the rainiest day in September, I got her up on the stands and replaced the exhaust manifold with a Stainless Steel gravity performance one I bought when I got the car, and replaced the exhaust system with Malian's TTE twin exit + sports cat combo. It has a brilliant sound now, if not a hint louder than I had expected. Looks good to boot too.
Surprisingly enough, almost nothing had any issues coming undone barring the o2 sensor out of the cat. Had to buy a new one as the old one was firmly stuck on the OG cat.

Next on is iridium spark plugs because only the best for Mushi, air filter and possibly replace or clean MAF. I've got this dark residue on the exhaust tip already but I can't see any oil mixed with coolant so I don't think that's where it's coming from. I am instead assuming that it's running on rich as my experienced friend seemed to think so too. See if these few bits help with it, maybe I can get slightly better MPG.

[Gaz mr-s]

There was a recent thread on Iridium plugs. The only thing better about them is they are made for higher mileages.  They are not as efficient has copper/nickel.  Set of NGK for £10.59 on ebay.

[JayPee404]

There was a recent thread on Iridium plugs. The only thing better about them is they are made for higher mileages.  They are not as efficient has copper/nickel.  Set of NGK for £10.59 on ebay.

Really? From what I've read it can help with fuel efficiency, performance, response, etc, on top of the extended life compared to bog standard ones. I guess that's a big emphasis on the "can" part of it though. Once I've actually put them in I will update on my experience.

[Alex Knight]

Without wanting to open a can of worms, Iridium plugs are better -on balance - than anything else.

But don't take my word, here is a professional analysis.

[Gaz mr-s]

Without wanting to open a can of worms, Iridium plugs are better -on balance - than anything else.

But don't take my word, here is a professional analysis.

They quickly say 'durability'.   But they sell the things, they have a vested interest.

[Gaz mr-s]

Really? From what I've read it can help with fuel efficiency, performance, response, etc, on top of the extended life compared to bog standard ones. I guess that's a big emphasis on the "can" part of it though. Once I've actually put them in I will update on my experience.

Unless doing a big mileage per annum I think they're a waste of money.  I have never replaced the standard spark plugs in a car & noticed it performing better.  I had to replace a faulty one in a bike once, cured a misfire.

[JayPee404]

Unless doing a big mileage per annum I think they're a waste of money.  I have never replaced the standard spark plugs in a car & noticed it performing better.  I had to replace a faulty one in a bike once, cured a misfire.

Mine is a daily so I drive this car everywhere. So long as it ain't a downright negative I'm okay with the price tag, and the illusion of ponies is an added bonus

[Alex Knight]

They quickly say 'durability'.   But they sell the things, they have a vested interest.

They sell both.

[JayPee404]

New sparkies are in. I definitely feel like the throttle is a bit more responsive, but all in all it's not a massive difference.



I have no idea if the old ones look like they're in good or poor state as it's my first time ever swapping out spark plugs.

One thing I did notice is that I am sucking up fuel like crazy. I need to start calculating what I am getting from tank to tank but I feel like I topped up last Tuesday and I am down to half a tank doing 20 odd daily miles on the motorway. Since installing the new exhaust I drive pretty conservatively (most of the time), so I don't even think it's from thrashing it too much.

Need to swap the air filter out ,but is there anything I should do to the car after swapping out everything from the exhaust manifold to backbox?

[onion86]

I'd say reset of the ECU (unplug battery for a while) is all you'd really need with that kind of change. If you've not done that, then that could explain a change in consumption.

Fuelly is useful for MPGs.... I still do it every fuel up, I have no idea why

https://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/mr2_spyder/2005/azekiel/110883 *might default to US Units in top left

[Joesson]

@JayPee404
This chart maybe helpful to you:
https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_plug-tips.pdf

Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

[Petrus]

Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

Unless it gets really dirty, less than one would expect. The electronics of the injection adjusts to maintain the A/F ratio.  But yes, do swap it out at least per maintenance schedule.

Thumbs up for iridium plugs.

If the ´reset´ by disconnecting the battery ´+´  does not restore previous fuel economy, think binding brakes?

[JayPee404]

Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

However, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

[Joesson]

Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

However, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

First off I would give the brake hydraulics a work out statically with engine running, hand brake off, in neutral pump the  pedal hard and fast several times , if possible drive for a few miles and then repeat.
Either raise one wheel at a time, safely, or all four similarly, hand brake off and in neutral, and then spin / try to spin the wheel/s.
A binding brake will be noticeable, either very or less so.
If the calipers are OE the pistons are likely sticking in the caliper cylinders and failing to retract. Due to a combination of deteriorating seals and accumulated detritus.
On my car at around 19 years/ 64 K , an MOT advised a partial binding NS front  and I refurbished the front calipers and replaced the rears with aftermarket units.
The discs, after a little in situ reworking were OK as were the pads and were retained, cleaned and lubed as necessary.
I also replaced the flexible  hoses and of course the brake fluid.
My handbrake cable gaiter ends were in good condition as were the cables, moving freely and so were simply lubed in situ and the cables adjusted.
If you do this work in a "standard" width garage remove the obscured screws from the consul, outside the garage, before you start work on the car in the garage.
Ask me how I know to do this!

[Petrus]

Didn't realise resetting the ecu was that simple so will give that a go.

Leave it a few minutes disconnected; enjoy a cup of thee/coffee.

However, the break idea might also be valid as I have a noticeable squeak coming from the nearside rear, that is worse on light breaking and gone on heavy. I've started leaving it off the handbrake after reading around but the brakes definitely need looking at, and I have no idea what to look for

If your drive/parking is a flat hard surface, then you can push the car forward/backwards. It should roll véry easily. I can shove mine about on slightly loose gravel!
Oh, best done with the top and window down so you can easily grab the handbrake if needed...
Brakes are rather critical   If you have nó hands on experience, then either have a friend who has plenty help or go to an experienced local independant garage.

[JayPee404]

I can definitely push the car around in neutral / handbrake off, so maybe nothing is sticking, but something is definitely touching somewhere and the squeak is awful. you can literally hear it at certain speeds just rolling without touching brakes. Same spot during rotation causes this awful squeak. I have a good friend who used to be a mechanic so will have a look at it with him. Haven't looked at service history to check when brakes were last touched.

[JayPee404]

@JayPee404
This chart maybe helpful to you:
https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/autolite_plug-tips.pdf

Also remember that the air filter determines the volume of air in the mix, too little / blocked filter could decrease your mpg.

This is great, I reckon mine are slightly carbon fouled as the engine is definitely running rich. I can see carbon building up at the tip of the exhaust also. Will do the battery today to see if it affects the car at all.