Guide: OEM head unit aux (facelift) - Android Auto display

[Ferrousfe]

Hello all,

I've been working on adding proper aux functionality to my car as I have now installed a wireless android auto display and wanted it to be properly cable in vs FM adapter. I could have replaced the head unit but it seemed to work out cheaper and a better OEM look to just use an aux adapter.

I'll explain the android auto screen install in case anyone is also interested in that.

Aux install
I began searching around and couldn't find a complete guide to aux input on the MR2's fisher price radio so I'm recording it here in hopes there's a small chance it helps someone else.

The facelift radio supports an expansion slot through the CN702 socket on the back. However for some reason our cars have this populated as standard with a connector which has only 2 pins used. If you try to swap this out for an aux cable then the radio will not turn on (if off before starting) or it'll stay on but you'll lose all controls (volume, mode etc).

In order to keep the functionality and add aux, you will need to either: splice together the wires into a new aux adapter or buy a Y cable.

I like to avoid cutting things where possible so I used a Y cable, as this allows it to be removed without issue.

To start, remove the CN702 connector. This is a 5+7 pin connector which you can access without removing the radio by reaching around the back of the radio from the passenger footwell. It is on the bottom left of the radio (if looking at the front but feeling the back).

Next, either splice together the 2 wires from the original into the aux adapter, or install the Y cable so that both the aux adapter and the original cable go into the 2 ends of the Y, then plug the single connector into the back of the radio where the original was.

Once this is in place simply start up your radio again and switch to CD and it should now show as a CD changer as CD 1-1. You should hear the aux working if you test.
If the screen is blank and there's no audio, then turn the ignition and radio fully off for about 5 minutes and try again.

Android Auto Display
I added in a wireless Android Auto display which I placed just above the heater blowers. I initially sat it back into the cubby but it was too far forward for operating by touch comfortably, so I instead moved it right forward, which is useful as it allows me to use the latch hole to feed the power and audio cables.

I started by removing the cubby lid on the dash, to do this: open the cubby and then look at the hinges at the back, there are 2 push in pins at the hinge. Pull the pins towards each other until they pop out, then lift off the lid and gently squeeze the 2 arms that go into the dash forward of the hinge pins.

Next I fed a stiff piece of cable down through the hole where the latch for the cubby used to be, making sure to bend the cable slightly to the left towards the passenger side. I removed the glovebox (press in at the sides when open, swing down and pull towards you), as well as the felt/lining to the right of the glovebox cavity (just pulls away if careful).

You should be able to feed the cable down enough that if you stick your hand in and feel for the stiff cable by putting your hand through the glovebox hole towards the heater controls.

If there isn't enough space (or you can't feel the cable), then you can remove the heater control dials (just pull them) and the airflow director (pull but much harder (make sure not to lose the clear plastic insert)). You can then remove the 2 silver screws under the dials and pull the plastic fascia towards you (do not pull too far/hard as you need to disconnect the clock power cable and it is very short!). Beneath this there are 4 black screws holding the white heater panel in, remove these and wiggle the heater panel out and down slightly, it won't come free due to the cables on the back but should be enough space to reach in and direct the cable.

I then pulled back through a 3.5mm extension (right angle) and a usb-c power (right angle). Both cables should fit but I recommend USB-C first as this tends to be bigger, then the 3.5mm. If doing it this way what I did was to feed up a long USB-C, attach the 3.5mm extension mid way up the USB, pull it all the way through and then separate them at the top.

The USB-C cable I used was for a dashcam, it uses a fuse adapter plug and I fed it behind the glovebox through the void on the left into the fusebox panel behind the passenger door and then plugged it into the cigarette lighter fuse as this is only live when the car is on. I used the nut above the glovebox area that attaches to the metal bracket as the ground as this is bare metal.

Finally, I connected my 3.5mm up to my aux adapter and checked everything worked, before sticking down the screen and tidying everything back up!

Finished product:


I can take some pictures to clarify all of these bits and but some links if required. But I wanted to write it up first and see if this is actually of any use to anyone or whether you've all gone for double-din units anyway!

Parts

• 5+7 Toyota aux cable/box: (£15)
• 5+7 Toyota Y cable: (£15)
• Audio filter*: (£9.99)
• USB-C power adapter (right angle): (£9.99)
• 3.5mm extension (right angle): (£4.99)
• AA Wireless display: (£55)

Total for aux and AA: £110

[barchetta_ms]

A nice installation - what model of AA display did you use?

[Ferrousfe]

A nice installation - what model of AA display did you use?

Thanks! I'll get some more pictures up soon. I used a Hikity 10.3" AA display, they are about £50-60 on Amazon
/eBay and it does the job nicely

[GraemeW]

Thank you, that's an interesting post. I have just gone through the same procedure using a similar screen except one which will take a reversing camera as well as offer carplay.

I ran the two cable I needed to feed the screen up across the front of the dash. I don't really like cables run like that and had thought about coming up through the floor of the cubby. Like you, I found I could get a clear run through the cubby latch slot but thought about making a neat hole through the floor of the cubby about 15mm back. I originally backed away from this because I have no idea what is underneath and dont like doing that sort of thing blind. Did you investigate that option?

I haven't done anything about a music connection to the radio because hearing aids and music in car is not a good combination.

[Joesson]

@GraemeW

The front glove box can be removed as can the rear cubbies for a clear view of what is concealed.

[SuperArt]

Very clear instructions!
I've oft longed for proper aux functionality to use a dash top head unit with. I can't believe this hasn't been done sooner.

Be following your guide this spring. Just need to find a head unit which will fit in a navpod.

[Ferrousfe]

Thank you, that's an interesting post. I have just gone through the same procedure using a similar screen except one which will take a reversing camera as well as offer carplay.

I ran the two cable I needed to feed the screen up across the front of the dash. I don't really like cables run like that and had thought about coming up through the floor of the cubby. Like you, I found I could get a clear run through the cubby latch slot but thought about making a neat hole through the floor of the cubby about 15mm back. I originally backed away from this because I have no idea what is underneath and dont like doing that sort of thing blind. Did you investigate that option?

I haven't done anything about a music connection to the radio because hearing aids and music in car is not a good combination.

Thanks, I started off the same way, first running them on the front and sticking them down but decided to fully commit.

I did consider drilling a hole but needed the screen quite close to the front to be able to reach it so the latch hole was ideal for this.

If you do want to drill a hole then I think you're okay as long as it's centered with the latch and not too far back. From memory the air pipes for the blower vents run either side of the latch hole and then i believe sweep to the left towards the glovebox. You can just about feel for this if you drop the heater control panel down and forward depending on the size of your hands!

[Ferrousfe]

Very clear instructions!
I've oft longed for proper aux functionality to use a dash top head unit with. I can't believe this hasn't been done sooner.

Be following your guide this spring. Just need to find a head unit which will fit in a navpod.

Thank you! Yes, I did search around a bit but seems people just go double din, but I didn't like the low placement of the screen for nav.

I'll try and get some pictures up soon to accompany the guide

[GraemeW]

@GraemeW

The front glove box can be removed as can the rear cubbies for a clear view of what is concealed.

I've had the rear cubbies out to pull a cable through. Didn't think of removing the "glove box" - doe this let me see across to the area below the central cubby on the dash top?

[Joesson]

I've had the rear cubbies out to pull a cable through. Didn't think of removing the "glove box" - doe this let me see across to the area below the central cubby on the dash top?

Some years ago I fitted a dash cam and removed the glove box to position the wiring that I put behind the windscreen trim at the side and top of the screen.
At the same time I installed the wiring for a removable  Sat nav that I positioned via it's suction type mount onto a small CD disc that was a proprietary item for such a mounting. May have been a 3 m product.
This disc was stuck onto the bottom of the central cubby.
Iirc the cubby can be removed and I passed the Sat Nav cable through a hole I made in the cubby.

[GraemeW]

Some years ago I fitted a dash cam and removed the glove box to position the wiring that I put behind the windscreen trim at the side and top of the screen.
At the same time I installed the wiring for a removable  Sat nav that I positioned via it's suction type mount onto a small CD disc that was a proprietary item for such a mounting. May have been a 3 m product.
This disc was stuck onto the bottom of the central cubby.
Iirc the cubby can be removed and I passed the Sat Nav cable through a hole I made in the cubby.

Are you referring to a hole through the cubby in the middle of the dash - the one with the lift up lid (some refer to the glove box as a cubby)? If so, where was the hole in relation to the catch position?

[Joesson]

Are you referring to a hole through the cubby in the middle of the dash - the one with the lift up lid (some refer to the glove box as a cubby)? If so, where was the hole in relation to the catch position?

Yes, I am referring to a hole through the cubby in the middle of the dash.
The hole I made is in the front left lower corner, this allowed the passing of the Sat Nav cable which simply lays in the cubby when the Sat Nav is not in use/ connected.
To use the Sat Nav, I remove it from the glove box, open the cubby lid, connect the cable and fix the base to the "CD", the cubby lid partially closes onto the back of the Sat Nav.
PS: I was very sure of the situation regarding the paraphernalia behind the cubby when I made the hole.

[TheTigerUK]

These days is there any point going to any lengths to fit a sat nav when the smart phone works as a great sat nav ?

[Alex Knight]

These days is there any point going to any lengths to fit a sat nav when the smart phone works as a great sat nav ?

Apple CarPlay / Android Auto does both.

[GraemeW]

Thank you!

These days is there any point going to any lengths to fit a sat nav when the smart phone works as a great sat nav ?

In my case I am fitting a screen to run CarPlay and my phone's satnav through the screen. I can also use front and rear camera options with this setup. If I didn't want to hide the cables this wouldn't incur much more effort than having to mount a phone somewhere.

[Joesson]

These days is there any point going to any lengths to fit a sat nav when the smart phone works as a great sat nav ?

I fitted the Sat Nav BSP (Before Smart Phones) and to be honest it is not my favourite device.
After a working life of finding my way around much of the UK with an AA handbook and later an AA Atlas and buying a street map, when I got near to where I wanted to be I found the sometimes circuitous routes advised and the frustration of giving me a different route for the return, less than helpful.
I prefer to be in  control, with a map I can choose the type of road I want to use and if diverted by roadworks, or whatever, have a good chance of finding an alternative route.
And, please be aware I have never smashed a machine nor marched South!

[TheTigerUK]

I fitted the Sat Nav BSP (Before Smart Phones) and to be honest it is not my favourite device.
After a working life of finding my way around much of the UK with an AA handbook and later an AA Atlas and buying a street map, when I got near to where I wanted to be I found the sometimes circuitous routes advised and the frustration of giving me a different route for the return, less than helpful.
I prefer to be in  control, with a map I can choose the type of road I want to use and if diverted by roadworks, or whatever, have a good chance of finding an alternative route.
And, please be aware I have never smashed a machine nor marched South!

Wait until you discover emails, saves time and no stamps needed !!

[Joesson]

Wait until you discover emails, saves time and no stamps needed !!

My use of emails followed on from my letter writing, Telex, and Fax communications, nationally and internationally, and yes they do save on postage stamps.