Turbo timer wiring

[Tem]

Uh...oh...it looked simple, but...  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

The time itself has 4 wires, ground and constant power are easy. 3rd wire is the ignition signal, which "arms" the timer and the timer keeps it powered when the ignition turns it off. 4th is just additional output that has 12V when the timer is running.

Now the ignition has 6 wires. Two inputs that have constant 12V and four outputs (ACC, IG1, IG2, START). Acc is just for cigarette lighter and radio, that can be ignored. IG1 and IG2 are both needed to keep the car running, so I wired IG1 to the timers input and IG2 to timers output.

Turning the power on turns the timer on, like it should. Start the car and all's fine. Stop the engine by turning the key to ACC and the timer arms itself, keeping IG1&2 powered and the car keeps running while the timer counts down and stops when it ends.

But if I turn the key to LOCK when the timer is running, the start motor activates  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  Now I can't figure this out, any ideas?


(for now, I just removed the starter wire from the ignition and rewired it to a button...I guess I'll keep it that way, but I'd still love to know why that happens)

[Anonymous]

did you get an answer to this problem in the matey?

[Tem]

did you get an answer to this problem in the matey?

No, not really.

I just wired the start through separate starter button, problem "solved".  s:? :? s:?

[Anonymous]

I beilive your meant to attach the third wire to IGN1 and IGN2 (both)?

but wondered if you had got around to that yet before i put one in   s;) s;)    s:) s:)

[Tem]

I beilive your meant to attach the third wire to IGN1 and IGN2 (both)?

I think I did that.

Though it's not so obvious from the 1st post now that I read it.  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

but wondered if you had got around to that yet before i put one in   s;) s;)    s:) s:)

Might be a good idea to open the battery terminal, so you can just pull it off quickly. Just in case.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[kanujunkie]

just wondering Tem, are you basically shorting out ign1 and 2 together and if the process of doing that somehow causes the starter to fire when you go to the lock selection. If it is then why not just use a couple of diodes to resolve the issue, if memory serves me right, and its been 16yrs or so since i used them, the p/n of the basic diode is IN4001

[Tem]

are you basically shorting out ign1 and 2 together

Yes.

But I can't see how that would cause anything funny. They are shorted normally as well, into the battery, just through two fuses.

According to BGB, nothing's connected when the key is off and:
ACC, connects ACC to battery
ON, connects ACC, IG1, IG2 to battery
START, connects IG1, IG2, ST2 to battery

[kanujunkie]

you got me on this one, i've looked at the books myself and cant work it out, why would a switch position that has no connections, cause a  starter to activate when the timer is activated  s:? :? s:?  

imobiliser? but then why would it activate the starter, heaven knows, got me  s:? :? s:?

[Tem]

imobiliser? but then why would it activate the starter, heaven knows, got me  s:? :? s:?

That was my first thought too, but then I realized I have the PFC.  s:? :? s:?

I don't think I ever tried that with the stock ECU though, do you think there could a difference? I can't really see how the inside of ECU would change the wiring on that part though.  s:? :? s:?

Then I kept wondering how the timer could do that, but since it's only connected to the IG1&2, I couldn't figure that out either. The timer is basically just two relays that shorts IG1, IG2 and a pin coming from the battery (don't remember what it's called). As I see it, it's just doing what turning the key does as well, except I'm using same wire from battery to both of them, while the lock assembly has separate wires for both IG1&2, but they are together after the fuses anyway.

But removing the ST2 wire from the lock connector solved the problem, so somehow it's related to that. I measured the ST2 connector from the lock connector when the wire was off and it never got 12V there. Then I decided it's just too weird for my electrical skills and wired the ST2 through separate button.  s:? :? s:?  I don't mind that solution at all, but it still keeps me wondering.  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[kanujunkie]

the strange thing after studying the wireing diagrams last night was that the key is the only thing that can fire the starter and only when the key has gone to the start position, so that leads me to one decision. That you posibly have an internal fault on the key lock cylinder thats causeing the fault, i cant see any other option  s:? :? s:?

[Tem]

That you posibly have an internal fault on the key lock cylinder thats causeing the fault, i cant see any other option  s:? :? s:?

If the lock cylinder was faulty, connecting the ST2 when turning the key to lock, wouldn't it fire the starter all the time? Of course the car wouldn't start with the IG1&2 off, but I think the starter would still engage.

[kanujunkie]

ok, your right, strange one, got me beat  s:( s:(

[Tem]

ok, your right, strange one, got me beat  s:( s:(

Don't worry about it, I won't either anymore.  s8) s8)

[Anonymous]

I've just looked at this post again whilst researching info for a reply, and with regards to what is happening with Tems car, my only assumption is that its a bug in the microcontroller source code, and one which was probably never realised or addressed.

It has to be something controlled by the ECU bearing in mind it only occurs when TEM presses the "Lock" button on his Key.


Unless of course I've read this wrong.

[kanujunkie]

sorry mate but this is pre ecu stuff, the issue was why the starter fires when he goes to the lock position on the ign key switch barrel, not lock on the alarm. That part of the system is all relays so code isn't an issue

[Tem]

the issue was why the starter fires when he goes to the lock position on the ign key switch barrel, not lock on the alarm.

Yes.  s8) s8)

I didn't even try the wireless controls, but I assume they wouldn't have done anything anyway.

[Anonymous]

 s:oops: :oops: s:oops:   I misread then, i thought Tem meant when he pressed the lock button on the key   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[Anonymous]

Just received my greddy turbo timer in the post today and the instructions say:-

red wire to 12V
green to ON
blue to ACC
Black to EARTH

It also says that with vehicles that have 2 IGN (ON) wires, connect the green wire to the IGN/ON wire that does not drop voltage when the starter is activated, then connect the blue wire to the other IGN wire.

There also parking brake and speed sensor wires as well to operate the other functions.

wont be fitting this until the weekend tho

[kanujunkie]

how much was it btw Perry?

[Anonymous]

Bought it 2nd hand on e-bay matey, but usually I think around the £80 mark?

[Anonymous]

well the turbo timers up and running, with no actual timer/ign problems

I wired her up as follows:-

green from timer to Red with White stripe

Red from timer to White with Red stripe

Blue from timer to Black with Yellow stripe

Black from timer to Earth

now although the timer works fine and the ignition seems ok I appear to have a diffferent problem?

whilst the car is running via the timer (ign off and key out), the central locking wont operate? (j-spec so no alram at present just key switch)

once its gone through its cycle and shut the engine down then it will lock up ok?


weird one?

[Tem]

Did you get the new GReddy timer that looks like this?
 m http://www.greddy.com/products/display/ ... ategory=55 m

[Anonymous]

no matey but similar  (mines 2nd hand so should be an older model)

red digits but it does have volts etc

[Anonymous]

[Tem]

Ah, didn't know they caem in silver too.  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

I have this one, I suppose it's the same. I'll give your wiring a go in a week or two.  s8) s8)


(just a generic pic from net, not mine)