+15BHP Power Mod MR2 on Ebay

Started by Anonymous, September 16, 2005, 11:42

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Anonymous

Hi everyone, do you guys actually know what these thing actually do?.  Are they any good, or just a con?.

 m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/15BHP-Power-Mod-M ... dZViewItem m

aaronjb

#1
Snakeoil..

more info here..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

mrsmr2

#2
+8 bhp gain for the MR2 (doesn't say which model).

"As seen in Max Power".  Sells it for me  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Jason
04 Astral Black, hard top, air con, black leather, Corky\'s MSMB; FSB;  RMB; RLCB, empty exhaust manifold, cg-lock.  Warranty: new wheels @ 20k, new pads and discs @ 21k, new wheels @ 26.4k

Anonymous

#3
lol.  i shall forget that then  s:) :) s:)

Anonymous

#4
All these "Kits" normally consist of is a 1p resistor that connects to your air mass sensor (and a black box if your lucky) so that your ECU thinks the engine is running lean. The ecu then adds more fuel, but all that happens now is that the o2 sensors detect the engine is running rich and basically, the ECU will find things aren't consistent and will throw a CEL.

best avoided matey.

Tem

#5
Quote from: "Richie"resistor that connects to your air mass sensor

I think they go to the engine temp sensor...
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

leon_in_uk

#6
i had 1. in my corsa sport. no difference. but a paperclip through a block and yes connected to the air flow sensor. no point buying and affecting the car
For sale: 3.5 v6 Nissan murano
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roger

#7
Quote from: "Tem"I think they go to the engine temp sensor...

I saw one on USA Ebay, which said it conned the ECU into thinking the air input was colder than it actually was, so it produced more power with only approx 1 mpg additional fuel.

How does that work then?
Roger

EX: \'04 Sable + PE Turbo and many other things
NOW: MR2 on steroids - \'12 Merc SLK200 AMG125

Use Spydersearch if you are stuck for information. Please.
Check my fuel consumption

Tem

#8
Quote from: "roger"I saw one on USA Ebay, which said it conned the ECU into thinking the air input was colder than it actually was, so it produced more power with only approx 1 mpg additional fuel.

How does that work then?

Well...colder air=denser air. MAX only measured air mass and it needs the temperature to calculate fuel. So you're fooling the ECU to dump more fuel by faking the temperature sensor.

Obviously modifying the airflow signal has the same effect. That's actually just what the Apexi SAFC and alikes do, they modify the airflow signal to achieve required fuel. Of course the electrical versions can change it different amounts around the powerband, unlike plain resistor.

Fooling the engine temp sensor also dumps in more fuel, but at least on some ECUs it also affects timing, making it more useful than just playing with the intake air values. I have no idea how 1ZZ reacts to "cold engine" though.


Anyway, the stock engine doesn't need extra fuel anyway. Maybe, just maybe, if you can advance the ignition with cold engine, you might see some benefits. But note the ifs  s8) 8) s8)
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

roger

#9
Thanks. Don't worry, not trying it.

Isn't advancing the ignition an acceptable move on MX5s, supposedly to get the engine working more efficiently?
Roger

EX: \'04 Sable + PE Turbo and many other things
NOW: MR2 on steroids - \'12 Merc SLK200 AMG125

Use Spydersearch if you are stuck for information. Please.
Check my fuel consumption

aaronjb

#10
Quote from: "roger"Isn't advancing the ignition an acceptable move on MX5s, supposedly to get the engine working more efficiently?

Advancing the ignition is one of the easiest ways to get more power - with a few ifs & buts..

Basically - manufacturers program with a great deal of safety margin generally speaking, to account for people using the lowest grade of fuel available (so 95 in the UK, and they probably actually map for less than that to account for old/stale/bad fuel to an extent).

So, what you can do (to take advantage of this safety margin, essentially) is advance the static (base) timing a little - I forget the figures, but you do get a relatively large chunk of power per degree of advance - so it's a cheap (well, free if you have a timing light) way of getting more power.

What you have to be aware of though is detonation - advance too far and everything goes to pot, basically, and detonation is about the worst thing you can have in an engine (read: smashed ring lands, blown rings, giant holes in pistons etc).

Thing is, unless you know the timing map, you don't know how agressive the timing may be in high load/high throttle areas of the map - and therefore, quite what safety margin you have.. so you just have to listen for detonation and drop the timing back again if you're getting any.


In reality, it's a much better idea to remap the car and use the dynamic timing maps (on modern EFI cars, the timing will differ across various load/rpm/throttle points) - that way you can be absolutely sure what margin for error you're programming in, and (if the car has it) you'll still get a nice big chunk of safety net via the detonation sensor and built-in retard (obviously if you advance the base timing, the 'safety retard' will not retard by as much, IYSWIM).

Incidentally, that's all why Japanese (tuned) cars seem to make more power than over here - with their 100RON fuel they tend to run a lot more timing advance than we can over here (you should check out the timing maps in, say, a Mines 300ZX ECU vs. an American JWT ECU, there's a giant difference..)


Right, I think I've rambled on far too much already  s:) :) s:)
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

heathstimpson

#11
Were you ever a grease monkey Aaron   s:?: :?: s:?:  To conclude advancing the timing is a little bit risky to say the least  s:? :? s:?
Ex MR2 Roadster Turbo (seven years) now 997 Porsche Carrera 4 GTS

aaronjb

#12
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Where you ever a grease monkey Aaron   s:?: :?: s:?:

Nah, just been tinkering with cars and absorbing information for a few years  s;) ;) s;)

And it's not that risky as long as you know what you're listening for in terms of detonation (and even less risky on an NA engine vs. forced induction) - even so, I'd say get it done on a rolling road unless you know what you're doing, and better still, use the timing maps for their desired purpose rather than adjusting the base timing (which is, really, a bit of a bodge) (For reference, the 300ZX can take a couple of degrees of base advance over standard, if you only ever run SUL or better, and the Mk2 MR2 3S-GTE appears to be similar in taking a couple of degrees over stock - at stock boost levels)

Trying to remember the timing setup on the 1ZZ now, not even sure if it's adjustable..
[size=85]2001 Vauxhall Omega 3.2V6 Elite / 2003 BMW M3 Convertible / Dax 427 (in build)
ex-2002 MR2 TopSecret Turbo Roadster[/size]

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