don't slam dunk with Davids bars!! - now with the repair

[kanujunkie]

here's what happen's when you slam dunk the softop with a set of david's bars. The front edge of the softop seams to drop faster than the rear and rubs on the bars. Guess i'd better whip them off and go claim warranty from Mr.T  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:    s:? :? s:?  

[Slacey]

Mine have never done that and I slam them a lot - did you fit the plastic latch extender?

[kanujunkie]

Mine have never done that and I slam them a lot - did you fit the plastic latch extender?

no because mine latched in fine, i've had a bit of a study on the geometry and on a hot day when everythings looser, the front edge drops faster than the rear, causeing it to almost lean forward and rub on the bar before it gets to the latch assy, bummer eh!

guess i've got to put the stock bits back on and go claim a new hood on warranty  s:? :? s:?  bugger!

[philster_d]

havent noticed this on mine either, although, I havent fitted the shrouds yet.

I have the piece I just took off if you want to borrow it Stu.

Philster.

[kanujunkie]

just as a point on this for anyone else, we checked 3 other 2's at the go karting that had the davids bars. 2 of them had split front edges on the softops, if you have them, check em  s:!: :!: s:!:

[philster_d]

Yes I have it and I deduced it rubs when the back wont go down so you push down on the front (half folded)

 s:( s:(  

Need a plan obviously because mine is only just fitted and looking quite worn already (I rarely or never slam the top by the way)

Phil

[kanujunkie]

time to resurrect an old subject

heres the fix!

you need to cut the inboard welds of each hoop and the small section that goes down the back of the bar, next you need to cut 4-5mm out of the bit that goes down the back of the bar, where the round tube meets the flat section of the sqare cross member bar and then get the hoop section pushed forward and re-welded. Hope that makes sense. Doing it this way means only one small section of the covers need to be trimmed.

I cant even pull the soft top near the bars now and i cant see any way of further damage happening, hope this helps.

[philster_d]

Cost in the end ?

[Anonymous]

noticed a couple of weeks ago that mine has also split and I don't slam dunk mine.  Is it possible to get the teats repaired and reinforced?  will have to try and get the adjustment done somewhere.  did notice a while ago that there was a wind whistle at certain speeds that appeared to come from the top, mus be due to the splits

[kanujunkie]

Cost in the end ?

£80

[markiii]

as per our earlier discussions stu, if you find teh trim panel mods easy I may well be follwoing your route

[kanujunkie]

noticed a couple of weeks ago that mine has also split and I don't slam dunk mine.  Is it possible to get the teats repaired and reinforced?  will have to try and get the adjustment done somewhere.  did notice a while ago that there was a wind whistle at certain speeds that appeared to come from the top, must be due to the splits

do you mean the front edge of the soft top by "teats", if so i would have thought that you could get the split glued, but you may need to go to a soft top specialist

[kanujunkie]

as per our earlier discussions stu, if you find the trim panel mods easy I may well be follwoing your route

cant see why they wouldn't be easy, i'm also going to do away with that hideous gap in the middle and make one continuous panel

anyone do fibreglass 101 lessons  s:? :? s:?

[philster_d]

Mark i was gonna make some kind of custom covering.

From the people who fitted the supplied fg it wasnt very good anyway

[kanujunkie]

Mark i was gonna make some kind of custom covering.

From the people who fitted the supplied fg it wasnt very good anyway

they're alright, just a bit on the thin side and the join in the middle looks cack IMHO. my covers dont have the circles cut out for the defector and that makes a big difference

[philster_d]

well as I may get into the fibre glass for my front frunk, still umming and erring. I may be ready to do a simple join like that.

But I was thinking more leather and foam   s:) s:)

[dieamond]

why didn't you put the rubber stopper to prevent the soft top to rub on the style bars ?

[markiii]

what rubber stopper? dion't remember one with my bars?

[kanujunkie]

what rubber stopper? dion't remember one with my bars?

errrr yeah, what rubber stopper???  s:? :? s:?    s:? :? s:?  

i never got one

[mg]

errrr yeah, what rubber stopper???  s:? :? s:?    s:? :? s:?

I think he means the 'L' shaped teflon 'skid plate' that was offered as a fix for this issue.  Later versions of the kit came with it.  It sits just to the left or right of the release handle facing towards the rear.  As you are lowering the top, the metal handle on the top should hit the teflon bit first, forcing the top towards the rear before the lip hits the hoop as it's closing.

I would also like to find a better looking solution for the supplied fibreglass covers.  I would like a single piece with no centre join (and no holes) and most important, a cover that extends down the back to hide the bar internals when looking through the rear window with the top up.

[dieamond]

that's it

It has always been provided with the kits since I know David

And I thought that on early sets he sent it.

[markiii]

Arnaud, the 2 1 piece bars you sorted out for me last year didn't come with this, any chance you coudl sort it out for me.

cheers,

Mark.

[philster_d]

Same here, and I have asked this question.

Im sure the answer was in the later kits an extra washer is supplied to slightly change the bars angle by raising its rear.(thus leaving more clearance)

Phil

[markiii]

Phil, I remember teh washer conversation but thie rubber thing is totally knew.

[philster_d]

Well as the welders just bent Stus bars, im probably gonna do it myself.

(after i can finaly loose the hardtop  s:( s:(  i was in glorious sunny manchester yesterday gutted with the roof on) nearly just threw it in a layby   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  


Philster