C2 Install & Pictures: 85,000 miles on

[celmacmat]

Yeepee... I might get a run in the Stemobile at last!!

[spit]

Just as food for thought...according to Mugen smaller oil filter is better...in Japan they change all their filters on ITR/CTR for smaller ones and than use clamps around them to prevent them from expanding during hard driving (teperature does influence on size as i understand). Smaller ones couse they filter all the same but with less oil needed to fill them up...I think you can (if you are interested) see all about this in Best Motoring International DVDs about Integra TypeR...

Interesting. Larger filter is just a temp measure during run-in cos I had one kicking about - if there's crud to catch after the rebuild I figured I might as well make sure that there's enough filter to catch it and keep working. Just my fuzzy logic, no basis on evidence  s;) s;)

[enid_b]

nice to see its back together love.

this has to be the most read thread in roc history, your pushing 40000 views mate.

see, we do care. xxxx

[spit]

and the tune is all over the place at idle....

Not any more  s:D s:D  . Stripped off the TB today and removed the IAC valve assembly which was totally caked shut  s:x :x s:x  After a thorough clean-up, everything is ticky-boo again. A good thing, as I priced them up at MrT and they aint cheap.

Slight issue with the ceramic coating though - the Turbo-X top layer is turning to powder and falling off   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  I called Peter at Camcoat and have sent him pictures. I'm not the first - everyone in last month's batch has had the same problem. Ar$e   s:x :x s:x  . I'm reluctant to strip down again now, but Peter will make good when it finally does get removed.

[Jaik]

and the tune is all over the place at idle....

Not any more  s:D s:D  . Stripped off the TB today and removed the IAC valve assembly which was totally caked shut  s:x :x s:x  After a thorough clean-up, everything is ticky-boo again. A good thing, as I priced them up at MrT and they aint cheap.

Slight issue with the ceramic coating though - the Turbo-X top layer is turning to powder and falling off   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  I called Peter at Camcoat and have sent him pictures. I'm not the first - everyone in last month's batch has had the same problem. Ar$e   s:x :x s:x  . I'm reluctant to strip down again now, but Peter will make good when it finally does get removed.

Coated on the outside only I hope?

[spit]

Yes Jaik. A double ceramic base layer inside and out but its the Turbo-X top coat on the outside that hasn't adhered.

I may revert to the cermakrome Satin Black finish if Peter's gurus in America can't solve the problem.

[Jaik]

Thank god for that!

[northernalex]

Fantastic news Ste.. just had a good long read of this thread!

 s:) s:)

[Jaik]

Ste took me out for a little run in the beast tonight and it's rather swift. Looking forward to another go when it's all mapped and run in  s;) s;)

On that note, does anyone have a few grand and the number of a cheap insurance company lying around?

[markiii]

nope but I do have a spare turbo kit  :-) :-) :-)

[Jaik]

If it's free then I could afford the insurance  s;) s;)

[philster_d]

Respect to my C2 brother from another mother   s8) s8)  

/Phil.

[spit]

Those in the know will be aware that I've slightly oversubscribed on "things to go on my plate" at the moment .... but I'm still bizarrely annoyed and slightly bored now that the car has needed no attention whatsoever since the engine rebuild.

The point of this post? I can thoroughly recommend this course of action for anyone with the time and inclination to give it a go as an alternative to sourcing a scrapper or 'recon'. Financially its a viable option if you DIY or find a friendly garage.

The only downside is that I keep losing my tools now - they used to live in the car at all times and now they're scattered across spitville  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[DannyN]

I hope you haven't lost my screwdriver.....   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:

[Two's Company]

Good to hear the rebuild did the trick!  If you're missing car tinkering, my exhaust is rattling.   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Sounds like the baffles have gone but I'm in denial.

[custardavenger]

Surely it's only viable if the engine is in good condition to start with. When I priced it up I couldn't get it under £900 and thats without a crank re grind. Ok course it depends on the level you want to get it back to, I can't bring myself to put the rusty crank pulley back on and thats £130 on its own. Gasket set £131 Big ends £72 Crank bearings £92 etc etc. That with machining and 4 pistons just priced me out.

How did you do it?

[spit]

True, you have to consider the baseline of damage that you're starting with. I didn't say it was cheaper, i just said it was a financially viable alternative   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

I priced up engines and was faced with either something with unknown history or a recon with a brief warranty requiring exchange or an additional 250 quid to purchase outright. I simply couldn't afford this in one hit.

Taking the rebuild route allowed me to spread the cost so that is was manageable, and allowed me the opportunity to swap out tired stuff on a known unit. I believe the end result was worth it, and if it all goes t!ts up at least there's only one person to blame  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Our affiliate Chris can also help out when it comes to supplying parts at sensible prices.

[custardavenger]

They were Chris's prices.

You are right on the having an engine you trust. I wouldn't trust a recon just by the fact that If I can't recon an engine for that price how can they. I may still rebuild mine but have a couple more options to try first.

[spit]

Yep its scary how the prices add up but I was looking at a one-off hit of £1350 plus delivery for a recon outright ... and the guys couldn't verify the history of the 1-zz. Maybe I didn't look hard enough.

In my case the rebuild came in cheaper than that as I had great support from the ROC and the guys at Charlesworth, but it was ultimately the spreading of the costs that made it feasible. I also had less damage to contend with than you do.

I still have a whining tensioner pulley but its holding up fine after being cleaned out and greased to hell and back.  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

Whichever way you jump Rob, I'm sure you'll end up with a beastie   s8) s8)

[custardavenger]

Talking of that tensioner. I had a look at machining one. You'll have to give me the size of the bearing you have cos I'm struggling with it. Because the arm has a stud which it ataches to it really hard to get a wider bearing on there. Haven't looked yet at removing the stud (wanted to get a spare to try that on) cos if I can do that then its no problem. Will be over to see you soon to catch up. Got some bad news as well. That throttle valve I had for you got broken when some one nights used my bench. Will try and get you another.

[spit]

You'll have to give me the size of the bearing you have cos I'm struggling with it.

I'm seeing Steve at the weekend. I'll ask him to get it back for me if the engineering shop haven't lost it   s:? :? s:?  .

[custardavenger]

If your free next week I'll be over your way one afternoon. Should I bring my plumbing gear?   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[spit]

If your free next week I'll be over your way one afternoon. Should I bring my plumbing gear?   s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

All over the place chaos next week but hope we can hook up Rob.

NSK bearing is #6203DU. I have it here.

[spit]

Can anyone here remind my grey matter what size of oil feed restrictor works well with the Garrett? 35thou (0.9mm) rings a bell but I'm not sure its the right bell!

Thankee.

[aaronjb]

Yep, 0.035" or ~0.9mm for the BB series, e.g. :  m http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... gory_Code= m

0.065" acceptable for plain bearing or 'large' BB turbos according to ATP:  m http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... gory_Code= m