Hass + Thor = Good (pic heavy)

Started by Anonymous, January 22, 2006, 14:06

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Anonymous

#25
Ah, I see. I thought your car was an '04, though?

Or have I totally and utterly lost the plot?!  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

TommyD

#26
You've lost the plot. it was definately an 03 last time I looked.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
[size=100]Sable MR2[/size], David\'s Bars, TTE Rear Sports Spoiler, TRD side skirts, TRD front cross brace, Lampka rear cross brace and under bracing, Whiteline swaybars, Whiteline spings, 2\'srus Drop links, RPS clutch

TommyD

#27
Sorry slight detour on subject, I lost my first nut off my manifold this week. Anyone else suffered?
[size=100]Sable MR2[/size], David\'s Bars, TTE Rear Sports Spoiler, TRD side skirts, TRD front cross brace, Lampka rear cross brace and under bracing, Whiteline swaybars, Whiteline spings, 2\'srus Drop links, RPS clutch

Anonymous

#28
Nope, still got all five of mine on there. You using the lock nuts from Demon Tweeks, or the stock ones?

TommyD

#29
Demon Tweeks
[size=100]Sable MR2[/size], David\'s Bars, TTE Rear Sports Spoiler, TRD side skirts, TRD front cross brace, Lampka rear cross brace and under bracing, Whiteline swaybars, Whiteline spings, 2\'srus Drop links, RPS clutch

Anonymous

#30
Just went through the same thing with my car. Basically had to have the whole thing ripped out and re-done the way it should have been the first time. My mechanic did a lot of the same work. One thing he did do that I couldn't see or you mentioned was to weld the intercooler brackets to the cross member. It makes the whole thing more solid and decreases the likely hood that something will get ripped apart. Dyno numbers look close as well. I got ~ 186 @ 6 psi.

Anonymous

#31
Congratulations on finally getting sorted!
~205whp/173ft'lbs at 8psi is definitely in the ballpark.

But, as the saying goes - Theres no rest for the wicked.  s:x :x s:x  so heres some suggestions to improve long-term reliability..

Exhaust movement.
Kick the tailpipe- the whole assembly should rock slightly back & forth. The drivers side x-member before the silencer was the culprit on mine even with welded not clamped   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  seams.
A solution is to bolt a 2nd hangar on YOUR (UK) DRIVERS side to the tailsection like so.



Intercooler outlet hose
Wrap it up in 2000k tape - Its right under the header.


and finally...

Brace the turbo to the block.

Anonymous

#32
Quote from: "Slacey"As for the clanking, I'm going to stab a guess that it's the same as mine (happened from day one) and that's the exhaust knocking against the subframe -
Quote from: "markiii"I've yet to cnculusively prove it but judging by the sudden lack of paint on the cross brace I suspect the bend beofre the silencer is tapping on the frame (left hand side)

thats the next rattle on my klist to eliminate, I've spent the last few weeks tracking them down and have got rid of most of them.

Get a piece of the Nomax hose used for the couplers. Split it in half and put it on the pipe where it clanks against the frame. (I'm piss hot on fixing rattles   s8) 8) s8)  )

Anonymous

#33
My idea exactly, although I've got some rubber sheets at work that I'm going to cut up and use instead.

Oh, and after reading Bill's post, I've just remembered that I totally forgot to ask them to brace the turbo to the block!  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  Yes, I'm officially a forgetful prat.  s:( :( s:(

Anonymous

#34
Quote from: "Ekona"My idea exactly, although I've got some rubber sheets at work that I'm going to cut up and use instead.

Just make sure it has a high enough temp. rating. Stinks and smokes real bad if you don't.   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

Anonymous

#35
 s:lol: :lol: s:lol:  

That sounds like the voice of experience there...  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

Anonymous

#36
Quote from: "Ekona":lol:

That sounds like the voice of experience there...  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  Dman thing stunk for days, good thing I like the smell of burnt rubber.

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