Good morning all,
Apologies if this isn't in the right place but wasn't sure where to put it!
I have a 2004 MR2 which developed rod knock a month or so ago (just after it passed it's MOT :'( )
I turned it off fairly soon after I heard it but assuming the damage might be done now...
I've turned it over by hand and it still turns and has resistance (so it's not lost all compression), drained the oil and it isn't full of swarf
I have bought new rod bearings in all 3 sizes hoping I can open it and replace if the damage wasn't too bad. However I've tried to start this job a few times and moving the car without it's engine is a huge pain and one of the oil pan bolts is as round as it is tight...
So why the post?
Well I'm living back at my parents house at the moment while my house sale is going through and I don't have the space to try and sort it, so I'm thinking of scraping it, but I'd rather it not "die".
Is there anyone that would be interested in taking it? I just want it to live on really.
It has done ~178K miles at this point though!
Thanks,
Jordan
Contact Andy at J-Spec as he may take it off your hands for breaking. At least the parts will live on, even if the whole car doesn't.
Whereabouts are you located?
Quote from: Iain on January 4, 2024, 10:07Whereabouts are you located?
Based in Daventry in Northamptonshire
Pm sent
Any news re saving this little car or not? :(
Quote from: Chilli Girl on January 5, 2024, 13:21Any news re saving this little car or not? :(
No solid leads yet, a few options for selling it on as a parts car, but seems a shame as it's just had a new clutch and 4 new tyres 😞
Update 09/01 14:15
I've had another go and I've got the rounded bolt out, so no bolts holding the oil pan in atm.
Now I can begin the horrid task of removing the pan and breaking the sealant... wish me luck...
Update 09/01 15:45
Managed to get the oil pan off fairly easily now, no metal in the pan and all looks clean, no obvious damage or discolouration from heat.
Bearing on cylinder 3 looks out of tolerance but silly me I bought a 3/8 12point instead of a 10mm, so oil pan reattached and will continue tomorrow once amazon has delivered...
Update 11/01 10:40
I've had a look at all the bearings, going to measure with plastigauge, but they actually all look fine. Done cyclinder 2/3 and they measured within tolerance, so now I'm at a bit of a loss.
Anyone have any ideas if there's any other issues this could be that sound like rod knock?
Any help on the above anyone?
Here's some pictures of bearing for reference:
(https://i.ibb.co/m97Qrf9/415268951-1810298836085450-8190133415704578355-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tq5ywVq)
(https://i.ibb.co/q7H5dYh/415204598-754316339362771-1278811643338563340-n.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QpWdfvh)
Nowt wrong with those. I'd pull number one and number four, just to be sure. Number one tends to be the first to spin a bearing under momentary oil starvation.
If they look the same, it wasn't rod knock.
I'd get a stethoscope and see if you can pin it down to an area.
Inlet manifold flap rattle..
Quote from: mr2garageswindon on January 11, 2024, 12:07Inlet manifold flap rattle..
I've got a couple of inlet manifolds sitting around. One could be sent for the cost off postage.
Quote from: Ferrousfe on January 5, 2024, 23:17No solid leads yet, a few options for selling it on as a parts car, but seems a shame as it's just had a new clutch and 4 new tyres 😞
pmd you mate
Quote from: Carolyn on January 11, 2024, 12:01Nowt wrong with those. I'd pull number one and number four, just to be sure. Number one tends to be the first to spin a bearing under momentary oil starvation.
If they look the same, it wasn't rod knock.
I'd get a stethoscope and see if you can pin it down to an area.
All 4 look good, so I guess I'm going to reseal the pan and fill it with fresh oil and a new filter.
I'll then take a listen and see if it's coming from the top end near the inlet.
I wish I'd have done this first but as the noise sounded so much like rod knock I dreaded the idea of running it for even a few seconds to listen in.
Is the inlet flap issue non-destructive? If I run it is there any chance of getting inlet "bits" sucked into the cylinder?
Quote from: Ferrousfe on January 11, 2024, 13:51All 4 look good, so I guess I'm going to reseal the pan and fill it with fresh oil and a new filter.
I'll then take a listen and see if it's coming from the top end near the inlet.
I wish I'd have done this first but as the noise sounded so much like rod knock I dreaded the idea of running it for even a few seconds to listen in.
Is the inlet flap issue non-destructive? If I run it is there any chance of getting inlet "bits" sucked into the cylinder?
Not really but it will get on your tits.
Have a look on youtube, usually on corolla 1.4.
Some sound worse than others.
Worth a comparison..
Evening guys,
It's all back together with fresh oil and I've started it again.
It sounds horrendous, too bad for me to deal with having the engine on and go near it.
Any ideas what on earth this could be if not rod knock? Engine starts with relative ease...
It keeps reporting P0303 misfire on 3
https://youtu.be/90pk_meQUKg?si=XG8ulIEJt5z1LiHk (https://youtu.be/90pk_meQUKg?si=XG8ulIEJt5z1LiHk)
https://youtube.com/shorts/pNZkl1NYzmA?si=-r5uBnjrkxHeo-m4 (https://youtube.com/shorts/pNZkl1NYzmA?si=-r5uBnjrkxHeo-m4)
Loose/knackered spark plug?
I take it the cam cover, cover is removed for the purpose of investigation not just never on.
Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak??
A bad blow at the manifold to cat can sound like that.
I've have a look at the spark plugs and see if there's anything going on with them. Also will check the exhaust and see if there's any blowing.
Engine cover is off as I swapped coils to see if misfire moved to c2, problem stayed at c3
Appreciate the help so far all!
Quote from: Carolyn on January 13, 2024, 18:44Are you sure you don't have an exhaust leak??
A bad blow at the manifold to cat can sound like that.
This is a good shout. Had similar on another car (Suzuki Alto for the curious) and thought something in the top end was broken/loose/worn. Tiny hole in the exhaust manifold was the cause.
If you've got a long screwdriver, get your ear on it and move it around various parts of the engine, like a low tech stethoscope. It should help you pinpoint the general location, ie: cylinder head, block etc.
Though I'd investigate the misfire as a priority.
Whip all the plugs out, but keep them in order and compare them.
So I've found the problem all... Not sure how thrilled I am though...
Looks like the spark plug was loose and has bashed against the coil and probably hot combustion gas has aided in melting the coil.
My main concern is where all the material went and is it in the cylinder, mainly because the gap on the spark plug has been closed somehow
Very disheartened but think I'm going to try a new plug to see whether it'll even do up properly and then maybe run the engine for a few seconds with coil 3 in c2 to see whether c3 runs properly
(https://i.ibb.co/vzk1BDP/IMG-20240114-102944.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vzk1BDP)
(https://i.ibb.co/NLwz2ZG/IMG-20240114-102934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NLwz2ZG)
(https://i.ibb.co/0n9xvwy/IMG-20240114-102921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0n9xvwy)
(https://i.ibb.co/xKZJMVM/IMG-20240114-102915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xKZJMVM)
Fingers crossed it will tighten down ok. There doesn't seem to be any ally in the threads, so I'm hopeful.
I have a spare head...
Quote from: Iain on January 13, 2024, 18:13Loose/knackered spark plug?
Bingo!
Interested to know how long you had the error code on for the misfire?
Quote from: Ferrousfe on January 14, 2024, 10:33So I've found the problem all... Not sure how thrilled I am though...
Looks like the spark plug was loose and has bashed against the coil and probably hot combustion gas has aided in melting the coil.
My main concern is where all the material went and is it in the cylinder, mainly because the gap on the spark plug has been closed somehow
Very disheartened but think I'm going to try a new plug to see whether it'll even do up properly and then maybe run the engine for a few seconds with coil 3 in c2 to see whether c3 runs properly
(https://i.ibb.co/vzk1BDP/IMG-20240114-102944.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vzk1BDP)
(https://i.ibb.co/NLwz2ZG/IMG-20240114-102934.jpg) (https://ibb.co/NLwz2ZG)
(https://i.ibb.co/0n9xvwy/IMG-20240114-102921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0n9xvwy)
(https://i.ibb.co/xKZJMVM/IMG-20240114-102915.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xKZJMVM)
Glad you found the issue.
I would personally do a compression test before running the engine again.
Morning all,
So the threads look to be completely mashed. It won't even go hand tight.
I've got a cheapo inspection camera arriving (thought it'd be a useful tool to have in the box) so hopefully can get a better look and inspect inside the cylinder to see if there's any scoring.
When the misfire code occured, I swapped the coils from 2/3 (plugs weren't "loose" at the time but didn't check torque) and drove for 8 miles, then 8 miles home when it developed a tapping noise about 300m from my house.
Engine has been run for less than 2 minutes since.
I've ordered a spark plug hole repair kit with a threaded insert.
How much of a pain is changing the head, can it be done with the engine in situ or is that crazy talk?
Many thanks for all of your ongoing support. I'm having a tough time at the moment so it means a lot.
Thanks,
Jordan
I've done head in the car, once. I wouldn't do it again. Best and quickest to take the engine out.
If you're doing a thread repair/replacement with the head in situ, make sure the piston is nearly at the top of its stroke and figure out a way to vacuum out any swarf that ends up inside the cylinder. A few small bits of ally will blow past the valves quick enough, but you don't want to push your luck ;D.
I'm in Northants too. We have quite a workshop with loads off tooling, including some specialist tools for rebuilding 1ZZ engines. PM me if you need assistance.
Update:
After much messing around trying to find a tap that was long enough to go down the spark tube...
I can confirm I have a spark plug in the hole torqued to spec.
I covered the tap in grease and withdrew every 1cm or so and cleaned the ally off, regreased and carried on.
I'm not running it yet, will scope it tomorrow in the light and see what's in the hole, then will try and hoover, run without spark/injection to try and throw any more crap out, then will put it all back together and test, fingers crossed all!
Final update:
https://youtube.com/shorts/VUtJi795k-o?si=RyZ4Ub8Y5jw1Xilv (https://youtube.com/shorts/VUtJi795k-o?si=RyZ4Ub8Y5jw1Xilv)
Afternoon all,
Popped to euro car parts this morning and picked up a new coil and plugs.
Looked in the spark plug hole and there was tons of aluminium in there...
I tried vacuuming but it did sod all...
Then, I got a thin metal tube and a bit of silicone tubing and slid it over the end, covered it in grease and pushed it in and span it round, did this many, many, many times till I couldn't see any more bits in the hole.
All back together and running, sounds healthy! High tick over as battery is now knackered but otherwise brilliant!
No smoke out of the exhaust either even with a bit of revving (I had warmed it up for ages first) so all good!
Thank you so much all for motivating me to carry on and get this lovely car running again. It means a lot, have a great Sunday afternoon all!
Brilliant outcome and well done for persevering. These cars are definitely worth the effort. ;D
Well done on getting it sorted, glad its back up and running.
Well done indeed!!
Must feel quite satisfying.