Took off turbo coolant leads and primed them and kept them at the ready.
Connected normal coolant line and ran car till heat came out of vents.
Whilst car running, disconnected coolant line and connected turbo lines (coolant everywhere but happy with connection). No heat from vents at all.

Started doing 2.5k RPM for sustained periods and trying bleed valves and after about 10-15 mins SUCCESS!!! it's not done fully yet, heat definitely stronger when revving but it's heat I never had before with the turbo's connected! Ran out of time but super hopeful!





Next time will be more heat and adding the shielding to the charge pipes.

Thanks Carolyn, thats perfect advise, i think if thats my only option ill try and get it through MOT this year and have summer and then look towards a 2zz upgrade.

Quote from: Dave Angel on April 23, 2024, 19:47Noted on the wheel nuts - actually by original I meant the ones that came with the wheels so good to fit. Do have a 'cap' though so would need open ended ones if I was to use longer studs....

Yes, I get that. Easily enough measured though. Also plenty about. Would not worry about it till you know how much longer the studs are.

The factory compression is 185psi.  Higher than that would indicate wet rings (excess oil) and carbon build-up on the cylinder-head and piston crowns.  That tallies with the oil consumption.

The oil control rings will be gummed up and stuck in the pistons.  There is no amount of additives that will deal with this, I'm afraid. 

Engine out and a mild rebuild will be needed.  Clean up pistons, new rings, hone bores, Replace valve seals while you're in there. 

A small modification to the oil control holes in the pistons is also good to do.  Enlarge the ones that are there (there are four of them, and add two more, or get a set of eight-hole MAG pistons.

Or you could go for a known good used engine.  Once you've done the work of taking it all out, betting on a used engine may not be the best way to go.

It will probably pass emissions.

Have you tried giving it a basic tune up?  Air filter and spark plug?

Perhaps it's best to invest in TorquePro and an OBD dongle and see what's going on with the fuel mix, throttle position, coolant temperature etc... 

You could have weak fuel pump but that's quite unusual.

Hi all, my 2001 MR2 struggles to restart when upto temperature.
It is fine if you immediately start it or leave it for 20 mins or so, it seems like its not getting fuel through, any ideas?

Nice one Alex, so 200 psi I could have fantastic compression rings but the oils are naff.

It burns a ridiculous amount, Mot next so hope it gets through emissions.

@Dave Angel

The above post about aftermarket wheels is nothing to do with 'caps'.

It's about the mounting face of the nut.

OEM wheels require a flat face mount, most aftermarket wheels require a tapered mount.

Pistons have compression rings AND oil control rings.

They do different jobs.

I have been restoring my 2 lately and I'm nearing the end but I burn oil and sometimes hear an odd engine noise so I thought I'd try a compression test.

All of my results were between 200 and 204 psi I've not seen readings this high before what are people's thoughts? I was using a new pressure tester, accelerator fully pressed

Could this be so good it's bad?