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Hillclimb and Turbo car (s)

Started by tets, September 29, 2019, 12:00

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tets

Decided to re do part of the system - New filter ordered and some more fuel line.

Gone with a proper Sytec filter with 10mm push fit ends - I find the AN fittings great in part but I have steel braided hose from 2 different places and unfortunately the long pipes are not brilliant.
I'll try and get some pics up but the composition of the steel braid on 1 type of hose is great, really stable and clean when you cut it. The fittings go on really well and it they clamp up great.
The other is the opposite plus the braid moves up and down the rubber hose when you work it and it frays a lot easier. I'm going back to jubilee style clamps as I know they seal properly.

I'll revisit at some point and probably replace the long pipes but this will do the job.

We'll retest this weekend and hopefully get a better result!

tets

#76
Quite a good day today - Got the new fuel filter and pipes in - gravity leek test was good so connected the battery and switched the pump on - no leaks on the fuel rail or injectors so I'll take the win!

Got the funnel in to fill the oil, wired it to the brace, started pouring, wire shifted and poured oil everywhere! did it again properly, got approx 4.3 ltrs of oil in (to cater for turbo and oil cooler) and cleaned up best I could.
No leaks so disconnected the coils and gave it a cold crank to move oil round - no leaks so far.

I'm picking up a new to me Sparco seat up in the morning so hopefully in the afternoon I'll get it fired.
Just need to add something to the emanage blue (blank map with injector size or pre existing map) but not sure which!

The new fuel filter is a larger diameter to the old one so had to improvise on the mounting - it works but not ideal! you'll see the pic!

The return fuel rail maybe recognisable as I believe Carolyn made it moons ago!

Also a pic of the loop breather - did a bit of research on this and it makes sense. Pipe above the tank on the exit, loop then the bottom bit below the tank then back to the filter. if I go over (which I have previously) the bottom loop will be above the top of the inverted tank so no spillage! took some thinking about!




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tets

not quite to plan today.

Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.

Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!

Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)

Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!

Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week

Ardent

emulator or compatibility mode? for win 98

jvanzyl

Quote from: tets on April 21, 2024, 18:52not quite to plan today.

Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.

Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!

Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)

Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!

Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week

Sorry to hear you're not well!

Here's a link on how to connect to the Emanage: https://youtu.be/GT4Vc_Wcapc?si=HA6cahIh-4Af_WgE

This is how I connect to mine and I know it works as I have windows 10.

tets

Been a good weekend!!

Got more fuel in, primed the fuel system again and no leaks - can hear the fuel coming back into the tank from the return so all good there.

Got the seats and harnesses in which took ages as I've bolted through the floor with spreader plates which worked really well.

Rear bumper back on, couple of clips to fasten in the arches and an extra strip of heatproof tape to add on the left as it's doing my OCD no good!!

IT at work are sorting me a WIN98 laptop - I tried installing virtual box and WIN98 on an old windows 7 pc and it won't work - I watched the video above but not sure if I'm being technologically retarded so IT to the rescue!

Oh and I ordered a new oil pressure switch and positive battery terminal.

Need to get the semi slicks on the Rota's so I'm on the rain sports on standard rims (wet tyres) for the MOT.

Hopefully next weekend I'll get the MAP on and we'll give it a blast!
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tets

great day yesterday - all back together

Still struggling getting the EMB to connect to my Win 98 VM so not fired it yet. Currently sat doing software stuff to try make it work and I might even give the Jag a wash in the sun

Hopefully I can make it work tomorrow and also fill the engine mounts with Sikaflex

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tets

still can't get the EMB to connect, the IT guy from work Teamviewer'd in today and couldn't sort it - he's gone away to do more research on the VM software
Decided to start a process of elimination as to the non starting. Unplugged the EMB, still won't start.
I still have the 2ZZ injectors in so tomorrow will throw the 1ZZ ones in.
I can hear fuel coming back to the tank from the return so assume I've got fuel.
Threw an old plug in a lead and we have a spark.
Not even attempting so thinking electrical - I've wired the 2 O2 sensors together as per Spyderchat but unplugged them and tried again - should fuel off the MAF if I remember correctly. No change....
I've fitted an FIA master switch which cuts the ignition but thinking I wouldn't have a spark if that was dodgy. checked anyway and it seems fine!

Next step, fit the rising rate fuel regulator as it has a pressure gauge so I can see the fuel pressure (hoping this works when it's not under boost but having never used one before I could be wrong)

To give my brain a rest I set the coilover ride height as best I can prior to the Hunter and went home for a beer

Frustrating day to say the least

I've also transferred my entry for the June Barbon hillclimb to the July one. There is no way I can be ready for June as work commitments are seriously interfering with my home life!

tets

#83
It lives!!

Unplugged the emanage (that's for another day)

I dropped the green injectors in and a rising rate fuel regulator into the return line - still no joy

Then looked at the fuel system - wired the fuel pump up the wrong way round (don't ask)

All back together and fired 1st time! running pig rich and not ticking over right but it lives

today, up early with the plan to remove and clean the PCV and TPS. Removed the turbo piping and re did it on the bench as there was a vacuum leak - couldn't find it but when doing the TPS I noticed the pipe to the PCV was loose - all sorted and it run's wonderfully!

Ran it up to temp, heaters ok, no leaks, running sweet and everything looks good for the MOT


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tets

MOT passed this morning - I might have to rethink the exhaust as it's ASBO loud and pretty sure it won't pass a noise test at scrutineering!
Other than that everything is all good and nice to be out in it after 5 years!

Alignment to sort and I think we're ready for Barbon Hillclimb

One thing to note, oil pressure seems very low at idle when up to temp - what should I be expecting based on peoples experience?

Carolyn

Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

tets


tets

With Barbon Hillclimb next weekend and it being too noisy I had to bodge an exhaust up to keep within the 105db limit - 40 quid later (and an old backbox) and it's quiet enough although probably a bit restrictive.
Got the tyres on the rims and on the car so just alignment to have done this week

Spoke to the event Scrutineer and he seemed to think everything will be fine based on the conversation so watch this space.

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tets

The weekend was a massive success.
I'd only done about 5 miles in the car in rush hour traffic to the MOT centre and alignment place so had to take a complete guess at settings.
Camber bolts would only give me -0.5 negative on the front with a degree of toe out and then decided on -2.0 degrees at the back with a degree of toe in. Didn't have time to mess further. (I know I have adjustment on the top mounts but I hadn't touched the bolts and didn't want to snap anything)
Ideally I want -2.0 front and -2.5 back but I was treating it as a test - be interested to hear other peoples settings for track
The exhaust was almost standard quite so definitely restrictive but wasn't sure how much as I'd not even had it on boost.
Suspension set on 8 front and 6 back with 28psi front and 32 back on the Accelera 100 TW semi slick.

I'd also not done any competition driving since the 90's and never been up Barbon Hillclimb apart from as a spectator so wasn't expecting much.
Through scrutineering without issue and onto the practice runs.

First run managed a 38 seconds - The Porsche that won the class was at 31
2nd practice I got a 35 but had fuel starvation after the 2 left handers - fuel pick up is front left but I thought I had plenty of fuel in (turns out I need well over half a tank even though it's baffled)
The timed runs I had a high 34 and a low 34 and with the weather holding off they squeezed in a 3rd run.
Managed a 33.3 with the Porsche winning on a 29.something

I reckon I had a couple of seconds in me as I know where I was losing time and with a bit more time with the set up I'd like to think I could be within a second or 2 of the Porsche.

I dropped the tyre pressure for the timed runs as I'm certain I was too high (and still think I can go lower)
Tyres were really very good by the way.

Hoping I can get a late entry for Scammonden a week on Sunday.

Wideband packed up SEN5 on the screen so no idea of mixture and no idea what boost I was at as I never had time to look at the gauges - need to give it a run on the road this weekend and have a look!

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jvanzyl

Congrats man- sounds like you had a good time!

puma2

 :) as above does sound you have come out to play with a good outing and great big smile all day :)  :)
defiantly worth your all your effort 8)  8)

tets

I / it was a lot better out of the box than I expected - big smile on my face all day

Going to sort the camber this weekend and aim for -2 front and -2.5 rear, drop the tyre pressures more (probably 24 front and 26 rear) and try the suspension a bit stiiffer maybe 12 front, 10 rear and the EDFC. Can't remember where I set the whitelines but it felt fine so i'll leave that for the time being.
 
Picking an exhaust up on Saturday to bastardise and I have a sports CAT to weld onto some pipe to try and make it breathe better but doubt it will be this weekend.

Hoping for a late entry to the Scammonden Hillclimb next weekend but i need to speak to them to see if they have any space.

All in all, really really pleased with things ;D

tets

#92
Got the entry to Scammonden last weekend and decided on more negative camber up front with a bit less toe out.
Now at -2 with 0.2 degree toe out. Didn't touch the back
One thing I did was preloade the wastegate properly as I'm not sure it was closing properly, so set correctly and off we went!

Need advise though - when I took the wastegate arm off the flap opened a lot further than the arm will allow when fitted - my brain is telling me this is what controls the boost but all the web seems to throw up when searching wastegate not opening is other issues!

0-64ft is the first split and there were only a couple of cars beating me so really encouraging and I was still on the money through the first couple of bends and then time was lost on the longer hill and last bend.
I am comparing to seasoned competitors in S2000's who I've got to know after the last 2 events.

Had a brilliant day though and borrowed a mates go pro for a few runs

Next up, less rear toe in, got a laptop built to hopefully connect to the emanage, 2ZZ injectors, build a better breathing exhaust and get the Wideband working - also boost gauge is showing weird figures so need to check that
Looking for an entry to the Southport Sprint which is on the Marine Drive prom

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jvanzyl

What is the wastegate rated to and have you tested it? I'm assuming all is dandy and you can see it's opening at the right psi ? In which case no worries?

tets

Quote from: jvanzyl on August  4, 2024, 23:25What is the wastegate rated to and have you tested it? I'm assuming all is dandy and you can see it's opening at the right psi ? In which case no worries?

Looking at the readers ride from when it was first put together (but not run) it was 0.3 bar so 4.odd psi
I'm on the look out for a 0.5 or 0.6 bar spring but want to make sure everything is good before turning it up.
It was the flap opening miles more than the actuator arm lets it when it's connected that got me wondering!

The turbo gauge is doing odd things but the bum feel is about 4psi and it does get hot!
I did melt the rear bumper where the exhaust exits but it is at an odd angle due to bodging a quiet exhaust together to pass noise test

thetyrant

Flaps always capable of opening more than the actuator will push it, its not to worry about unless you have boost creeping at higher revs ?, the simple design and angles involved means the arm will never get it fully opened but if correctly sized it should be enough to bypass gases from the turbine wheel to drop the boost to required level.

I had a battle years ago with my first Mitsi Evo2 which has a TD05 turbo and in totally stock form the wastegate is only just big enough to keep boost to stock level, fit a free flow exhaust and loose the cat and the extra flow meant the boost would creep at higher revs, tried making the arm push flap open further but even wired fully open the boost would still creep right at top of revs, only solution was to enlarge the wastgate passage way and entry into it from the turbo entry, quite a learning curve to make it work but i did in the end.  Teh the engine got forged so i was able to run the higher boost but thats another story :)

Anyhows if your able to control the boost i wouldnt worry, main thing is making sures its held shut to build the boost fast then open enough to  keep boost in the required limits, having the best spring in there to do this without aftermarket boost control is best way, you can only run as low boost as the wastegate will flow, and/or actuator spring etc.

Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

tets

Quote from: thetyrant on August  6, 2024, 10:38Flaps always capable of opening more than the actuator will push it, its not to worry about unless you have boost creeping at higher revs ?, the simple design and angles involved means the arm will never get it fully opened but if correctly sized it should be enough to bypass gases from the turbine wheel to drop the boost to required level.

I had a battle years ago with my first Mitsi Evo2 which has a TD05 turbo and in totally stock form the wastegate is only just big enough to keep boost to stock level, fit a free flow exhaust and loose the cat and the extra flow meant the boost would creep at higher revs, tried making the arm push flap open further but even wired fully open the boost would still creep right at top of revs, only solution was to enlarge the wastgate passage way and entry into it from the turbo entry, quite a learning curve to make it work but i did in the end.  Teh the engine got forged so i was able to run the higher boost but thats another story :)

Anyhows if your able to control the boost i wouldnt worry, main thing is making sures its held shut to build the boost fast then open enough to  keep boost in the required limits, having the best spring in there to do this without aftermarket boost control is best way, you can only run as low boost as the wastegate will flow, and/or actuator spring etc.



That's great news thanks and I was sort of thinking that was the case but having never messed with turbo's apart from my old Integrale (and I tried to avoid messing with that) I'm lacking a bit of knowledge with them.
I'll get a 0.5 or 0.6 bar sprint although I can only find the Kinugawa springs in Taiwan at the minute!!

As I said, the boost gauge doesn't appear to be giving correct readings but it feels really smooth and I found myself changing up between 6 & 6500 rpm as it was running out of steam.
It's a really small PE turbo from years ago but spools up from the off which is what I wanted.

All in all I'm well chuffed out of the box and when I've got a more free flowing exhaust and either the emanage or apex (which I just bought) running with bigger injectors I think we'll be on the money!

Next up, Southport Revival Sprint with a bit of luck!

Alex Knight

Exhaust backpressure is absolutely crucial when it comes to boost control.

I learned this in my ST205, when I had the centre silencer taken out.
I had a 0.7 bar wastegate spring, but couldn't keep the boost below 1.5 bar due to boost creep.

I ended up putting the silencer back in.

thetyrant

Quote from: Alex Knight on August  6, 2024, 20:53Exhaust backpressure is absolutely crucial when it comes to boost control.

I learned this in my ST205, when I had the centre silencer taken out.
I had a 0.7 bar wastegate spring, but couldn't keep the boost below 1.5 bar due to boost creep.

I ended up putting the silencer back in.

Yes the Celica's have the same issue as the old Evos in this regards must of been a thing of the era maybe, ive had 2 x ST185 GT4's and they are terrible for boost creep as well if stock cat is removed or any other flow mods, heard the 205 was same as well.
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

tets

got me thinking now, I was planning on ditching the standard CAT and home brew exhaust which is standard diameter but with a smaller lighter silencer (very quiet). I have a 200 CEL cat that I was going use with a bigger bore pipe and silencer.
May just free up the exhaust side and leave the cat alone!

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