'00 track car

Started by AJRFulton, December 2, 2020, 16:48

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Joesson

@AJRFulton
You likely feel a little better now knowing the cause and some annoyance with "fate", but it is said that confession is good for the soul!

jvanzyl

 :-\  A plastic bag in the sump?

That's a new one.. to be honest though I've had so many things "disappear" never to be found again a see through plastic bag is probably relatively easy to lose. At least you have an answer!

AJRFulton

#327
Quote from: Joesson on June 18, 2024, 06:03@AJRFulton
You likely feel a little better now knowing the cause and some annoyance with "fate", but it is said that confession is good for the soul!

Yeah. Annoyed as it's preventable and careless on my part but the failure now makes sense. Im in the habit of double checking when bolting up an engine, but this has slipped by. Expensive mistake.

Tiny little bag, about half the size of a bank card. I used these small bags for things like valve collets, small nuts, etc.

I suppose there's 100x ways it could have got in there. I'm just assuming it was in sump as bag is fairly intact.

Joesson

@AJRFulton

Iirc about your day time job it's best that something "preventable and careless" happened when you were not working.

AJRFulton

Quote from: Joesson on June 18, 2024, 13:28@AJRFulton

Iirc about your day time job it's best that something "preventable and careless" happened when you were not working.

Well we are almost defueled now. About to enter into decommissioning.

Tbf our levels of scrutiny are second to none.

Joesson

Quote from: AJRFulton on June 18, 2024, 20:16Well we are almost defueled now. About to enter into decommissioning.

Tbf our levels of scrutiny are second to none.

I am Very pleased to hear that!

AJRFulton



Well..... engine in again.

Oil cooler and accusump removed, only running with an EP Sump. Back to basics.

I'm going to try @Alex Knight suggestion of running with slightly thicker oil too. On an older OEM engine I don't see any issue.

One of the lobes on the inlet cam was slightly worn, so replaced it over with a spare. Valve clearances are fine.

Changed timing chain and put over the uprated oil pump (opened up and gave a clean out).

We will see how it goes.

Joesson

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 13, 2024, 14:50

Well..... engine in again.

Oil cooler and accusump removed, only running with an EP Sump. Back to basics.

I'm going to try @Alex Knight suggestion of running with slightly thicker oil too. On an older OEM engine I don't see any issue.

One of the lobes on the inlet cam was slightly worn, so replaced it over with a spare. Valve clearances are fine.

Changed timing chain and put over the uprated oil pump (opened up and gave a clean out).

We will see how it goes.


No unintentional oil "additives" this time!

AJRFulton

#333
Hit a stumbling block with start up.

I had a 20L drum of Millers CFS NT+. It still had 12 or so litres. But only 3L came out.

My dad....... when questioned....... put it our old JCB.

Reminds me of the time he used my methanol dosed 103RON petrol to mix 2 stroke for the chainsaw.

Garage needs kept under lock and key.

Gaz2405

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 13, 2024, 22:28Hit a stumbling block with start up.

I had a 20L drum of Millers CFS NT+. It still had 12 or so litres. But only 3L came out.

My dad....... when questioned....... put it our old JCB.

Reminds me of the time he used my methanol dosed 103RON petrol to mix 2 stroke for the chainsaw.

Garage needs kept under lock and key.


Bet the JCB runs beautifully now though, and that chainsaw never had so much power!

It's probably karma for no doubt using all his tools when you were younger. 😂
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo +e153 conversion. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Alex Knight

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 13, 2024, 14:50

Well..... engine in again.

Oil cooler and accusump removed, only running with an EP Sump. Back to basics.

I'm going to try @Alex Knight suggestion of running with slightly thicker oil too. On an older OEM engine I don't see any issue.

One of the lobes on the inlet cam was slightly worn, so replaced it over with a spare. Valve clearances are fine.

Changed timing chain and put over the uprated oil pump (opened up and gave a clean out).

We will see how it goes.


Glad to hear that.

I'd have personally gone for a new OEM oil pump also. Removes one more (pretty critical) variable.

AJRFulton

Quote from: Alex Knight on July 15, 2024, 00:06Glad to hear that.

I'd have personally gone for a new OEM oil pump also. Removes one more (pretty critical) variable.

The MWR oil pump is less than 500 miles old. It is an OEM Aisin casing with the stronger gears inside.

Opened, inspected and happy enough. Gave it a clean, oiled it and reassembled.

Same with water pump, just switched it over with the OEM one on the other engine, again less than 500 miles old.

Curious how this engine runs temperature wise. Always had issues with 2ZZ cooling.

Alex Knight

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 15, 2024, 00:26The MWR oil pump is less than 500 miles old. It is an OEM Aisin casing with the stronger gears inside.

Opened, inspected and happy enough. Gave it a clean, oiled it and reassembled.

Same with water pump, just switched it over with the OEM one on the other engine, again less than 500 miles old.

Curious how this engine runs temperature wise. Always had issues with 2ZZ cooling.

I'm running an MWR underdrive pulley, by the way. Have done since about 2017. No issues. OEM Koyo radiator also.

AJRFulton

#338
Quote from: Alex Knight on July 15, 2024, 07:46I'm running an MWR underdrive pulley, by the way. Have done since about 2017. No issues. OEM Koyo radiator also.

Never had much issue with water temperatures. Even a long, race speed, session - temperature sits 90° or there abouts. It tends to go up a little when you stop or slow down after running hard - but that's expected with less air flow. I do run a large lightweight mishimoto radiator though. Generally fairly happy with water cooling performance.

It's oil temperatures I've struggled with.

Seeing 130-140° across multiple engines in all configurations and multiple oil gauges (from racetech to £25 ebay jobs). I put a 13 row oil cooler in but tbh, I didn't think it did much other than cause resistance in the system. Negligible difference in temps.

I measure oil temp from sump and from above oil filter

Even enlarging the ducts to scoop more air did little

AJRFulton

#339
Engine runs. Seems fine.

Got it warm (not hot) and did a compression test. Getting about 160-170psi across all 4 cylinders - a little lower than I'd like but tolerable - but then the rebuilt engines were all getting +200psi, so that's wear for you.

I am away now for the weekend. Will move back onto it next week

AJRFulton

#340
Tuned car today. Making 179bhp on an OEM engine. Happy enough with that given mileage.

Quite frustrating the lack of trackdays at Knockhill (loads for bikes, none for cars). Will be - at least - October (but probably November) before I get a chance to properly test car.

Downside of living in west of Scotland. Next closest track is Croft and that would be a 9hr round trip. Knockhill is bad enough at 4hrs.

Alex Knight

I'd be tempted to leave it on the stock ECU (and enjoy the associated safety margins), knowing your luck.

AJRFulton

Quote from: Alex Knight on August  4, 2024, 08:12I'd be tempted to leave it on the stock ECU (and enjoy the associated safety margins), knowing your luck.

I have about 3 engines worth of parts but unfortunately I don't have an OEM ECU. Although my exhaust only has a single lambda port, which IIRC throws up an engine management light.

Car is tuned conservatively. Could have eeked out a few more horse power. Can put the data logger on the ECUMaster black too.

AJRFulton

#343
Trackday morning booked on the 12th.

Knockhill reverse.

Barring a few scattered laps at Croft and Knockhill, it's been 3yrs since I last had meaningful track time.

Nervous about a failure again.

Gaz2405

Just go out there and enjoy it buddy
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo +e153 conversion. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

AJRFulton

Quote from: Gaz2405 on August 30, 2024, 19:41Just go out there and enjoy it buddy

I'm just hoping I don't get another oil related failure.


AJRFulton

#346
Never got to my track day today (rescheduled to end of October).

For once it wasn't my car that let me down, but my trailer.

Off in the van for the next 3 weeks away climbing in Austria and Dolomites - so had no time to do the prep and fix trailer. Easy fix, with being sat for a year it's siezed - but tbh trailer could do with a couple of days spent on it doing maintenance.

Danny Scarbro

Quote from: AJRFulton on July 15, 2024, 16:20Never had much issue with water temperatures. Even a long, race speed, session - temperature sits 90° or there abouts. It tends to go up a little when you stop or slow down after running hard - but that's expected with less air flow. I do run a large lightweight mishimoto radiator though. Generally fairly happy with water cooling performance.

It's oil temperatures I've struggled with.

Seeing 130-140° across multiple engines in all configurations and multiple oil gauges (from racetech to £25 ebay jobs). I put a 13 row oil cooler in but tbh, I didn't think it did much other than cause resistance in the system. Negligible difference in temps.

I measure oil temp from sump and from above oil filter

Even enlarging the ducts to scoop more air did little

Interesting to hear about the oil temps, I'm having exactly the same situation with my k20 track car. Water temps steady at 90 but oil temps 130-140 quite quickly on track. Again have an oil cooler but just feels uncomfortable at those temps and like it will only be a matter of time before a failure.

Dan


AJRFulton


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