Ok so the good news is thanks to the support of many of you on here we finished our MR2 project, got an MOT and successfully completed our 3000 mile rusty banger charity challenge.  Find out more here....

https://www.jericho.org.uk/rusty-banger-challenge

The bad news is we have an oil burner. It drinks about a litre of oil with every tank of petrol.  It also sounds like a diesel when you rev it above 3500 and is pretty gutless. Despite all this we have grown rather fond of our MR2 and consequently are seeking advice on engine options.

The options are:

Replace with a low miles pre facelift 1zz
Replace with a low miles facelift 1zz and gearbox (6 gears would be nice and facelifts appear to burn less oil)
Rebuild existing engine
Replace with a 2zz

Suggestions and thoughts welcome

Any idea on respective costs? And who could do it? Engine swaps/rebuilds prob behind our diy skills.

Thanks

  what a great job on the  car and what must be a event of life time for you both and a great bit story telling you must have now. great memories for all involved  

sorry can help on the main question but i think  a fl  engine with 6sp gearbox for the most reliability, or for more fun a 2zz      

@LozB

As a reference point from the manual.
A litre of oil per 1000km/620m is classed as in spec.
How many miles are you getting per tank?

A used engine is always a gamble.  Low miles good engines are few and far between.  A breaker can run an engine up and check for obvious faults, but it's not going to get driven very far, so oil burning won't show up.

Having said that, some people have done alright with used engines from J-Spec.  Everyone who has an oil-burner wants a low mileage late model engine so to actually find one is pretty hard.

I've seen facelift engines that were gummed up and burning oil, only the very last few really had solved the issue. 

Whatever you put in (1ZZ or 2ZZ), it's most ideal to go through the engine and refresh with cylinder hone and new rings, thoroughly cleaned pistons, lapped valves with new stem seals, water pump, timing chain and clutch. Depending on condition, you might also wish to replace the rod bearings.  Main bearings are very rarely bad.

When you consider that more than half the work you will do, whatever path you chose, is getting the engine and gearbox out and back in, not putting in a fresh engine seems a false economy.

While you're in there, a good modification is to enlarge the oil control holes in the pistons, as they are the little sods that get gummed up.  Mind you, regular oil changes will prevent further gumming up.

So - I reckon you might as well rebuild the one you've got, as it's already paid for.

Unless you really want a 2ZZ.  Expect to spend over £3000 for a good conversion.

PM'd

As much as I always respect the opinion of @Carolyn, please do not hone the bores on a 2ZZ. The cylinders are lined with MMC, and should not be honed or bored unless being sleeved.

Quote from: Alex Knight on July 24, 2024, 17:37As much as I always respect the opinion on @Carolyn please do not hone the votes on a 2ZZ. The cylinders are lined with MMC, and should not be honed or bored unless being sleeved.

I stand properly corrected.

Well we have done a compression test and all cylinders are holding 180psi.but still getting through oil, any ideas?

Quote from: Simonc on July 29, 2024, 17:06Well we have done a compression test and all cylinders are holding 180psi.but still getting through oil, any ideas?

Leak down test.

Gummed up oil control rings.  No effect on compression and a common problem with the 1ZZ.  I'm afraid no amount of potions will free them up.  The pistons have to come out.

I've rebuilt quite a few and often found this.

Probably a daft question but is there any way of replacing piston rings without taking the engine out of the car? We only have a domestic garage and no access to an engine hoist.

Assuming not any recommendations for engine removal 'how to' vids.

Also where best to buy the bits and what bits to buy?

Definitely not a daft question. I have done a cylinder head removal with the engine in the car.  I won't be doing it again. Taking the engine out is less of a pita.

You don't need an engine hoist as the engine comes out from the bottom.  You do need to get the car jacked up pretty high to do the job.

However, it does sound to me that it might be better (given your lack of experience and, probably, tools and equipment),to find someone who can take it out for you?

If you feel you're up to the challenge.  The bumper needs to come off and the subframe needs to be removed. Then it's a matter of working your way through the job methodically.

The engine and gearbox come out as one lump.

I think you might find a 'how to' out there in webland.  I don't think we have one in the club as a write-up would be a pretty big job in itself!

@shnazzle has done one on changing the clutch, which entails dropping the gearbox (that's most of the job you need to do to drop the lot).

Here's the link:

https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=61540.0

If you do want to have go, take your time over it and we'll coach you though it as much as we can. 

There's a few of us who've done the job a few times!

Thanks great advice as ever. Will definitely explore options for getting someone to do it for us.

If we went down the engine replacement route what ballpark do you think we would need to pay to get the engines swapped over?

Around £500. Plus a new clutch kit which makes so much sense while the engine is out.

Taking the engine out isn't that hard compared to other cars but without access to a ramp it's a lot harder.

As Carolyn says, getting the engine out might seem like a pain, but makes life easier for most major jobs.

In leave subframe on car for my engine out sessions !

Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on August  1, 2024, 22:33In leave subframe on car for my engine out sessions !

It does depend on how high you can get the car!   I have a lift, so the subframe stays in.

A method which I found useful is to lay down a few paving slabs (if you have them) then place some ramps down and drive the car up on them. Jack the car up from the rear using the rear Center engine mount and with the jack placed on more slabs, and place car jacks on the rear sill section as high as they can go and on paving slabs.

Remove rear car jack & rear bumper for nice clear access.

Then seriously consider spending £160 on an engine hoist from Amazon...

I was able to slide the engine out upright by removing the front bumper and lifting the rear of the car(it pivots on the front wheels with the front bumper removed). I do not know how you could get the engine out by yourself without significant risk to yourself. I'm fairly sure I captured this process from page 16 to 22 in my build thread.

Quote from: Carolyn on August  2, 2024, 09:08It does depend on how high you can get the car!  I have a lift, so the subframe stays in.

I have a 2 post ramp, I ended up making a jig out of an Ikea trolley (long flat trolley)  and some scrap metal that the engine sits on - subframe off - roll engine in and lower the car down onto it.

I reckon, if the engine is sitting ready - I can have it in and running in about 2hrs. Although my car is totally stripped for racing and (by design) I can take the loom out with the engine - which takes away a lot of the fidgity time.

Quote from: AJRFulton on August  6, 2024, 11:21I have a 2 post ramp, I ended up making a jig out of an Ikea trolley (long flat trolley)  and some scrap metal that the engine sits on - subframe off - roll engine in and lower the car down onto it.

I reckon, if the engine is sitting ready - I can have it in and running in about 2hrs. Although my car is totally stripped for racing and (by design) I can take the loom out with the engine - which takes away a lot of the fidgity time.

I always leave the loom on the engine, just disconnect inside the cab, pull the loom through and lay it on top of the engine.  It's much easier to deal with that way.

Did anyone have any recommendations for a professional firm who can rebuild a 1ZZ? I need mine redoing - compression is 135/125/100/150    This is way beyond my DIY skills (although I can take it out of the car and replace it)
Ideally near Gloucestershire!
Thanks
Richard

There's one for sale That's been gone through and done 4,000 miles - so it's proven good.  He's asking a bit much for it, I think, but you can always haggle?

MR2 Roadster Enthusiasts UK

https://www.facebook.com/groups/190715694734050

@Richard35 PM coming

Thanks both but I'm after a rebuild for my 750 Motor Club MR2 Mk3 race car engine and want to look at professional options. I have a spare engine already.