Evening all,
Went for a 20 minute drive to halfrauds on Saturday, when I got home I noticed a burning smell, upon checking I noticed it was coming from the drivers rear wheel area, with the wheel being quite hot aswell.
I am assuming the brakes/capliers have stuck on, is it a case of buying a refurb kit and refurbing the caliper/piston and associated springs and rubbers ?
I just checked - do Brakes International still do a refurb kit for MR2's ?
Thanks, Vaughn.
Yeap, just need to get
(a) a kit from brakes international (they still do them, click the 'associated' button next to the relevant caliper on their online ordering system)
(b) some red rubber grease (off ebay or from a local motor factors) Do not use any other grease on areas in contact with rubber seals on brake calipers.
(c) If the piston has seized up a bit, then buying a new one is prudent.
Before you order anything pull the caliper off and have a look to see if the piston is hard to move, or if its the sliders (or if its both).
All of these are common. Also give the other side an inspection and test too, as its usual for the other side to be approaching a similar condition!
That is assuming you're happy to do the job yourself, otherwise you can get a recon'd budweg caliper from brakes international (expect it to cost £80ish extra for that though!).
If rebuilding the caliper yourself...
...if you need any guidance when it comes to replacing just shout, have refurbed many of them.
Slider boots are very straightforward, cant go wrong there.
Piston dust boot is a bit of a pain (to get the circlip in place) - just take your time, dont use sharp tools, and be very careful not to tear the rubber!
If the piston is stubborn then this is where the fun comes in. If this is the case then let me know, I won't bother to go into detail otherwise!
Then there's jsut the trick to adjusting the rears correctly which is NOT included in the how to on this site (still) - but is documented in my previous posts.
excellent - cheers Frogger.
Can I get the Brakes International kit from local motor factors, or is it a case of buying from BI themselves only ?
Motor factors are unlikely to be able to help, unipart in particular has the wrong parts on their system for 1999 onwards MR2 rear calipers, useless!
At best I would expect they may be able to source you a recon caliper for a bit more than one from brakes international.
To the best of my knowledge you have to order direct from BI.
Brakes international are certainly the only place to go to for pistons, and usually a good supplier for the kits.
They're usually quick to deliver, though some parts may come from germany which takes at least 48hrs as a guide time.
Bigred on ebay has an alternative option for pretty much the same price (considering this kit is for 2 calipers): m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-1-8-Br ... 0127588342 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-MR2-1-8-Brake-caliper-repair-kit-R-4533-/310127588342) m I have bought several kits for other cars from this seller in the past with no issues.
Also pretty quick to deliver, probably not much to choose between this kit and the brakes international seals.
Toyota dealership will sell you an equivalent seal kit for more ££, probably for next working day collection.
I priced up everything from toyota in the past, and it's not really worth considering given the cost premium on some parts.
Strange as they're very competetive in price for Mk1 MR2 caliper rebuild kits which are basically the same!
again - excellent s:) :) s:)
I've just bought a set of of the bigg red repair kit.
I will buy some red rubber grease tomorrow in preparation.
To perform the refurb I have printed this off : m http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk1/ ... ipers.html (http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk1/wheels-/5-wheels/61-how-to-refurbish-the-rear-brake-calipers.html) m
I know it's not for a MR2 Roadster, but from the reading I have done it sounds like the brakes/calipers in the above article are very similar/identical to the Roadsters, could you confirm Frogger ?
Check your Handbrake cable that runs to that side in case it's sticking and causing the caliper to remain clamped.
I now suspect that to have caused my rear n/s to drag as I free'd it off a second time and haven't since used the h/brake and I've had no problems - so 2 new cables going on at MoT end of this month.
As AC says, worth inspecting whats going on closely when you start taking everything apart to do the refurb.
Checking whats seized and whats not will give you the awnser.
That guide for the mk1 calipers is indeed appropriate - they're pretty much identical in design.
I've only skim-read the how-to, but although I noticed that its got a 50/50 good/bad rating, I couldn't see anything massively wrong on the surface.
I would add the following points...
- Would NOT recommed using wet and dry paper of any grade on your piston. Asking for trouble. If the pistons crud, replace it!
- The brake caliper rewind tool (sold in halfords and on ebay, made by laser) can make life so much easier than pliers - well worth it in my opinion.
Especially if the piston is stubborn, then its a life saver. If the piston is seized then extra tools again are required... thats another story...
- The method of using the brake pedal to pump the piston all the way out (before you take off the hydraulic line) can save a lot of faffing around, especially if you dont have an air line handy to do it later on.
- Chances are the new pistons they bought in that how-to guide were the correct ones, but you need to cut up your old pistons to obtain a part from within them before they will fit... again, this is for another time if your piston is siezed or in need of replacement!
- After scraping all the old muck out of grooves I like to flush through with brake fluid to make sure there isn't the slightest trace of anything knocking around inside the caliper that could damage a seal later on.
- 'Step 16' in that guide might take 1 minute or it might take 1 hour, just have patience!
If things are getting difficult at this step it can help a lot to thouroughly dry any brake fluid/grease off the stuff your working on (and your hands) and get a better grip again.
- As mentioned already, only use red rubber grease. Almost anything else either swells rubber seals over time (causing seizing) or doesnt sufficiently protect against water ingress (causing rust and... siezing).
Good luck!
this a fault with most rear toyota calipers of a certain age the piston cannot be screwed in, so unfortunatively its a new caliper.
Don't know where you've got that from!?
Every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.
You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes corrosion grows.
BUT - I have yet to meet one that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.
The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.
Just out of interest, the Toyota seal kit is not too pricey, considering you get sachets of both greases included...... s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
(D/brake cyl. kit) 04479-17050 @ around £60
also, you may need a shim kit: 04946-17010 @ around £13
Quote from: "vatovey"again - excellent s:) :) s:)
I've just bought a set of of the bigg red repair kit.
I will buy some red rubber grease tomorrow in preparation.
I realise this is a bit late, but another option is Bigg Red do a refurb service themselves - Anyone else looking at this issue can read more details HERE (http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=26742)
Ordered some of the red rubber grease from local motor factors, should be in stock tomorrow.
Whats the best way of cleaning off all the gunk n corroson on the caliper and piston/slider ?
If its a polished metal part (like a slider pin or piston) stick to solvents and scrubbing (brake fluid can work well).
Scrub with something softer than steel and you can do no damage.
For very stubborn muck on polished parts I use some of the fabric material type brushes on a dremel at a few thousand rpm.
If its muck on the body of the caliper (i.e. the rough cast iron parts) I go all over it with angle grinder with wire brush attachments, then scrub any particles off with solvents/petrol/brakefluid etc so that you're working with a clean caliper and there is nothing left to go inside the caliper when you take the piston out.
Am halfway through refurbing the drivers side rear caliper, I've tried cleaning the piston but there is corrosion and slight pitting, as such I've just ordered 2 new pistons from Brakes International.
Am having trouble putting the spring clip back in after the new piston rubber..., is there some special technique to refitting the spring clip ? what a pig of a job lol s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Frogger - to save me looking, any chance you could copy and paste your guide to altering the handbrake - now I have everything apart I would like to get it working perfectly also.
No problem - Here's Les's guide on replacing rear pads: l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=17198 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=17198) l
And here's the one thing thats not included - Essentially once you've wound the piston all the way back in, wind it back out again by about 180-ish degree's s8) 8) s8)
Here's some discussion on the matter: l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30655 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30655) l
It's true that you can get suitable handbrake performance without this step - but doing this step is the only way to ensure a good handbrake first time everytime.
(As an aside, get new rear discs and pads if you're rear calipers been stuck on for long enough to wear things out a bit, I'd be tempted too anyway just to start a fresh!)
QuoteAm having trouble putting the spring clip back in after the new piston rubber..., is there some special technique to refitting the spring clip ? what a pig of a job lol
Ah yes lol. This sounds like the part I was referring to when I said "
might take 1 minute or it might take 1 hour, just have patience! If things are getting difficult at this step it can help a lot to thouroughly dry any brake fluid/grease off the stuff your working on (and your hands) and get a better grip again." s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I have no quick tricks unfortunately, just lots of swearing and persistance whilst trying hard not to damage the rubber!
I use some very thin spatula bits of metal to guide it in, rounded edges to not slice thru the rubber. You could file the edges of a couple of small screwdrivers.
I intend to get some circlip pliers to see if they help things, but im not sure there's enough access to use them anyway...
IIRC how far you wind the piston in can help, put the boot properly into position over the pison, and just try and line it up so you can get as much all round access as possible, with the boot all bunched up but flat (I think! I spend so long fecking around from different angles at this stage I forget!).
If you've bought new pistons my main advice with the circlip would be
dont bother refitting that circlip until you've sorted the new piston's - cause you'll just have to do it again! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Regarding the new pistons... do you have an angle grinder, a dremel, or ideally both?
It's not a pretty job getting the internals out from your exiting pistons without damaging them! And the internals needs to be reused in the new pistons s:( :( s:(
To clarify, on the left here is your current piston. On the right is a brakes international piston (with internals reused):
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af116/frogger_album/caliperpistons.jpg)
And here's how you get to the internal gubbins...
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af116/frogger_album/pistoninternals.jpg)
Fun job eh?!?!
Notice that in these pictures the piston has been cut at exactly the right point - exactly on the line where the plate sits - yet the plate is not damaged in the slightest. This is not easy, but achievable if you're careful! For accuracy I cut out the bulk with a grinder, then trim out the little flats holding the internal plate in with a dremel.
Whilst I have done this procedure a few times, the above pictures are not my own, and form part of a full write up on mr2turbo.info ( m http://www.mr2turbo.info/pics/rearcaliper.html (http://www.mr2turbo.info/pics/rearcaliper.html) m )
WTF !!!, it doesn't say on the webpage that I would have to re-use parts, I assumed it would be a completely new piston with all internal parts pre-built.
Not your fault Frogger - but if they come as you described, I will be sending them back, its false advertising surely ?, I don't have an angle grinder or a dremel s:( :( s:(
Thanks for the info once again, been a lifesaver !!
lol, well technically the piston is just the outside bit!
Sorry, I did try to mention about it! ...
QuoteIf the piston is stubborn then this is where the fun comes in. If this is the case then let me know, I won't bother to go into detail otherwise!
QuoteIf the piston is seized then extra tools again are required... thats another story...
QuoteChances are the new pistons they bought in that how-to guide were the correct ones, but you need to cut up your old pistons to obtain a part from within them before they will fit... again, this is for another time if your piston is siezed or in need of replacement!
If they have arrived by Monday I'm not too far away from you as it goes and will be (probably) be passing thru on monday if grinder services are desired s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I can bring the kit easy job, all that would be required at your end is a decent vice or something to hold the piston steady?
How bad are your old pistons, any pics?
they arrived this afternoon and are exactly as you described.
I spoke to Brakes International and they said I could simply remove the internal parts from the old piston with a circlip pliers - obviously they are not aware of the design by Toyota s:( :( s:(
On the positive side, they did say that if I can't get the internals out myself that they would fully refund me - which was nice.
I shall take some pics and get them uploaded in a few minutes, I've only disassembled the drivers side rear atm, the passenger side piston would be in similar condition I'm assuming.
ok, here is the piston which has been removed from the car.
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww353/vatovey/MR2/DSC_0009.jpg)
Unfortunately there is nobody around on Monday, I'm in work until 5pm and then go straight to night school until 9pm s:( :( s:(
Looking at the condition of piston in the picture, can I simply grease up the corroded part of the piston with the red brake grease I bought, or is it worth wet and dry sanding the corroded part of the piston - I have some extremely fine wet and dry paper which I used to remove oxidation from the mr2 headlights.
Hmm, I've seen worse...
Is that actually corrosion on the main body of the piston? ...
Or is it firmly baked on muck that might come off with a plastic based scouring pad and some solvent abuse?!
If it's possibly muck, then as mentioned previously, I'm not a fan of wet and dry paper (or any abrasive materials harder than the steel of the piston) as, by definition, these materials are capable of wearing down the metal of the piston - Whereas alternatives such as plastic/nylon scouring pad will only remove gunk, and leave the metal of the piston unscathed...
If it is actually corrosion, then of course piston replacement is the correct method... though there is a chance you could be successful with wet and dry paper... but I don't recommend it personally s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
It's corrosion s:( :( s:( , I've tried cleaning it but not much actually came off, used a toothbrush and some new brake fluid.
I really would prefer to replace the caliper, but getting the internals out of my old pistons is going to be a major issue I think.
Aye, sounds like it could do with replacement.
PM Sent!
Went up to Gloucester on Saturday for Frogger to angle grind my old caliper pistons - all done within' an hour, THANK YOU VERY MUCH !!
Here's a quick shot of Frogger in action.
(http://i735.photobucket.com/albums/ww353/vatovey/MR2/DSC_0001-1.jpg)
I have since re-assembled everything and it's mostly good, I think I need to bleed the brakes once more as they feel a little squishy.
Aswell as the brake bleeding, during re-assembly I noticed one of the tinware pieces which align the actual brake pad in the stationary caliper is missing, due to this the brake wear is uneven and probably the cause of all my brake problems I suspect, can anyone advise as to where can I get hold of replacement caliper tinware ?
Thanks, Vaughn.
No problem, always happy to lend a grinder!
Regarding the missing bit, are you talking about a missing clip, or a big flat piece?
If its a clip, then they're pretty vital, but I haven't got a clue where to suggest... cheaptoyotaparts or Toyota I guess.
The flat bits are just antisqueal shims, I leave them out all round and use a slithering of copper grease on the back of the pads instead.
These (or the lack of these) won't affect the wear, though you'll always tend to get slightly uneven wear with this design of caliper anyway IIRC.
Certainly a siezed slider or sticky piston will create a lot of uneven wear though!
On a semi-related note: Did you get new copper washers in your rebuild kit from bigred? Or did you reuse the existing ones? Seemed to be the only thing missing from kit's I've had in the past.
It's a missing clip which fits on the stationary part of the caliper (i think the stationary part is bolted to the wheel hub).
Does anyone have a Toyota or CTP part number for the above tin clips ?
Washers - nope, wasn't included in the kit.
Update: Just spoke to my local Toyota dealer - I tried explaining what the part I want is, hopefully they have ordered the correct part - waste of £3 otherwise s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "vatovey"Washers - nope, wasn't included in the kit.
In which case, make sure there's no microleaks from the area where the brake line bolts to the caliper. This would make pedal spongey too.
Happened when I had to reuse once, used a different couple of [2nd hand] washers and all was fine again.
THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
As we seem to be repeating statements, allow me to reiterate...
If by 'THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES' you mean that this problem is known to occur on MR2's and other toyota's then I agree with you.
(As stated originally when you first made this remark - You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes, corrosion grows.)
However - It is NOT a mechanical fault within the caliper, and as mentioned when you stated this same thing last year - a new caliper is NOT normally the remedy. I have yet to meet any caliper that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.
I do not know of anyone who has gone to the extravagence of an entirely new caliper to sort this issue on an MR2, so to say a new caliper is 'normally the remedy' is incorrect and entirely misleading!As mentioned previously :
Quote from: "Frogger"Practically every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.
The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.
To awnser the new Q...
Quote from: "Toplesscouple"Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
The seizure IS typically caused by moisture corrosion yes, but NOT internally - always from the outside in - i.e. due to a knackered boot on the piston or slider.
Therefore, ignoring fluid change intervals is not a typical cause of this failure mode.
Ignoring the fluid change intervals will result in reduced braking performance though, so get 'em bled if you know you're overdue s:) :) s:)
Cheers Frogger, s:) :) s:)
Just ordered a rewind tool from Amazon at virtually half the cost of Halfords for the same Laser tool. Therefore I'll ensure seals look good before pushing the pistons back. Also the excellent pictorial explanations of front and rear pad replacement seem to show a uncleaned piston being reset. I thought you should always carefully pump out each pistons a few mm and clean them up first.
As an aside, my handbrake has always been high and not very good at holding the car on any sort of incline, however after a more spirited drive on Sunday where I used the brakes more agressively, and also letting a bodybuilder type guy have a go in it who pulled it on really high, my lever is now only coming halfway and holding, on a gentle incline at least s:D :D s:D
Whilst it wouldn't hurt to give that area a clean (so long as you don't breach the handbrake reset rule set out in the next paragraph), I've never seen it as being a problem and I've never really worried too much about cleaning minor grime from the face of the piston (i.e. the area which contacts directly with the pad back), and I certainly wouldn't worry about cleaning any other part of the piston (i.e. rolling back the dust boot to clean up anything), if the boot is in good condition with red rubber grease underneath then there's no worries. I do tend to put a smearing of copaslip on the pad backs though.
On the topic of the handbrake, the issue your describing can often be solved (on MR2's of all ages) by performing an extra step that is NOT included in the rear brake write up on this forum... Essentially once you've wound the piston all the way back in, wind it back out again by about 180-ish degree's s8) 8) s8)
Here's some discussion on the matter: l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30655 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=30655) l
It's true that you can get suitable handbrake performance without this step - but doing this step is the only way to ensure a good handbrake first time everytime.
Dear All
I have read this topic with great interest and while most of what is said is correct I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic would want to mess about with the biggest safety issue on any car especially an MR2 since these cars are not likely to be driven by nuns. Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.
I smell a troll or is it a bogeyman. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
My thoughts exactly s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I think the concern bogeyman's expressing could be slapped onto any DIY mechanical thread on this forum.
Essentially, If you are not sure what your doing or how it works, don't faff around with it!
QuoteAdvice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
To clarify to others reading this thread - All parts used were "the correct specified parts", and all work undertaken is exactly the same as would be performed by a garage charging £50~£100/hr (Yes - even the angle grinding! Though there is an alternative to this in replacing the perfectly servicable internals). Though most garages would go for the easier, but more expensive option, of purchasing the recon unit as a whole.
QuoteThe next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.
The next time you hit a corner too fast, I suggest not slamming on your brakes mid corner s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
However, if you have to slam on your brakes in another situation - the knowledge of how YOU fixed your brakes, and to what standard, will provide much reassurance!
If you want to use a garage then go for it - There are a lot of very competent garages around who are of course more than capable of performing this job.
Fact is if you used a garage they would probably order a recon unit from budweg, or budweg via unipart - so you'll get a good caliper.
We are all human though, and if a garage can do it, a mechanically minded person using the correct parts and following the correct procedures probably can too s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"Dear All
I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic.............. Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.
Call me an over-educated prejudiced snob, but my advice to unknown (sub 10 post) advice givers would be, the likelihood of your advice being given serious consideration may prove to be inversely proportional to the number of grammatical and spelling errors contained therein. s:) :) s:)
I exclusively maintained the brakes (and almost all other items) on my motorcycles for twenty years and I was indeed instilled with confidence while riding that I knew precisely who and under what circumstances had done the job - i.e. as many hours as I wished in my own garage by me compared with an unknown (and often time -poor / pressured) mechanic.
The only bike of mine that spent any time in a dealer workshop was there for an under -warranty gearbox repair. Two months of dealer time later after the 35 mile ride home I discovered they had not retensioned the drive - chain. Needless to say this could easily have come off either sprocket, jammed and then spat me off the bike. Fortunately it being the depths of winter and just getting used to the bike again after a two month wait I had been riding relatively sensibly - but could have been very different on a summer day s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
So yes, I think the general advice would be do think very carefully about who does the maintenance on your vehicles s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"Dear All
I have read this topic with great interest and while most of what is said is correct I cannot quite understand why anyone accept a trained mechanic would want to mess about with the biggest safety issue on any car especially an MR2 since these cars are not likely to be driven by nuns. Advice from me is get it into a garage and have them repaired professionally useing the correct specified part.
The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.
Exactly the words of wisdom i would expect from an entity designed for scaring small children. s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"The next time your hitting a corner to fast think about how and who as fixed your brakes.
I have to agree here. Last time Toyota did a wheel swop to get the alloys refurbished under warranty, they managed to fit a rear on the front and a front on the rear. I ask myself sometimes why I bothered to check the work of a professional s:D :D s:D .
Quote from: "mrzwei"I have to agree here. Last time Toyota did a wheel swop to get the alloys refurbished under warranty, they managed to fit a rear on the front and a front on the rear. I ask myself sometimes why I bothered to check the work of a professional s:D :D s:D .
I'm not certain it was your judgement to make what constituted a 'front' or 'rear' wheel.
Surely the trained mechanic would have used the correct specified part? s:P :P s:P
Just edited that because I missed you meaning first time 'round s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "frogger"Don't know where you've got that from!?
Every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.
You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes corrosion grows.
BUT - I have yet to meet one that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.
The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.
Dear frogger dont recall telling anyone to buy a refurb caliper, mine was a genuine Toyota part ( I put some value on my life ) I shudder to think that I may buy another MR2 for my son not knowing some that some spanner as being grinding away at the brakes. Good advice frogger but this is not a DIY job. s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"this is not a DIY job. s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
I would agree, with the caveat 'unless you know what you are doing'. The 'technology' if that's the right word, is really very simple and has been around since almost the beginning of cars. Rocket science it aint.
In my youth with only enough dosh for the beer, it was diy or no wheels s:D :D s:D .
If you buy your son an MR2 you will never know wherther or not 'some spanner' has been messing around with the brakes, just make sure it has a kosher MOT.
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"Good advice frogger but this is not a DIY job. s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
Just because you are not able to do this, does not mean that it cannot be done - These 'trained mechanics' are mere mortal men too, and equally able to work to a standard well below total perfection.
Toyota's own mechanics have worked on my car several times and last time it was in they left both headlights totally disconnected, while issuing an MOT pass. s:shock: :shock: s:shock: and certified my interior lights as fully working on the same service, when they have not worked in 3 years. They had to remove the fuel tank to replace a handbrake cable and left several spare screws in the luggage compartment, the correct positions for which I have yet to ascertain.
I could have made these mistakes myself for much less financial outlay. Do not knock one man's ability, and laud others that you know nothing about either - The only person whose skills you can assess is your own.
Well aware of what you previously said bogeyman.
It seems you deem only brand new entire calipers suitable... I guess the entire caliper refurbishment industry is a liability.
Who knew eh? But I guess I've been schooled now. Ta s:) :) s:)
We have a huge problem, I fear that 99% of mk1 mr2's may have had caliper refurbs, and a huge proportion of mk2 and mk3's to boot.
Sure they've been running fine until now, some for 20+ yrs - but your insight has me very worried that there's thousands of ticking time bombs out there.
I've put my mk1 and mk3 into quarantine immediately, and tried to alert ROSPA... But they just called me a spanner too and hung up. s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"this is not a DIY job. s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes:
I have two Haynes manuals to hand both of which consider that overhaul of brake calipers is 'suitable for a competent DIY mechanic'.
As their influence on car DIY is somewhat bigger than this forum s:lol: :lol: s:lol: , perhaps you should ask them how they arrived at this?
I should probably point out though, that their highest difficulty rating (which is also signified by five spanners as it happens) is:
'suitable for expert DIY or professional'
Quote from: "frogger"Quote from: "BOGEYMAN"THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES, THE WIND IN CALIPER PISTON STICKS AND WILL NOT RETURN THUS VERY HOT WHEELS, A NEW CALIPER IS NORMALLY THE REMEDY. MY CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM.
As we seem to be repeating statements, allow me to reiterate...
If by 'THERES A FAULT ON THE REAR BRAKES' you mean that this problem is known to occur on MR2's and other toyota's then I agree with you.
(As stated originally when you first made this remark - You are 100% correct when you say this is a fault with most rear toyota rear calipers - rubber has a finite lifespan and when it goes, corrosion grows.)
However - It is NOT a mechanical fault within the caliper, and as mentioned when you stated this same thing last year - a new caliper is NOT normally the remedy. I have yet to meet any caliper that cannot be refurbished. Including many 20~25 year old ones that have been seized for a fair while previously.
I do not know of anyone who has gone to the extravagence of an entirely new caliper to sort this issue on an MR2, so to say a new caliper is 'normally the remedy' is incorrect and entirely misleading!
Frogger I dont think we will ever agree on this subject about diy brake repairs so i.ll agree to disagree. by the way your advise was accurate regarding the repair.
As mentioned previously :
Quote from: "Frogger"Practically every 'new' caliper on the market is just an old one thats been refurbed with new seals and new pistons (and sometimes replacement handbrake mechanism components)... buying a 'new' one (i.e. a recon from brakes international/toyota/motor factors) is not any different to doing it yourself.
Other than you have to put the effort in instead of someone else of course, and trust your own workmanship rather than someone elses.
The one thing that always stays great are the internals, its all just seals and occasionally piston corrosion and/or surface corrosion around the piston dust boot 'lip'.
To awnser the new Q...
Quote from: "Toplesscouple"Is the sticking piston mechanism because of lack of maintenance? I mean could it be caused by ignoring the recommended brake fluid changes and moisture contamination seizing the parts. I have rarely changed the brake fluid on any of my vehicles s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
The seizure IS typically caused by moisture corrosion yes, but NOT internally - always from the outside in - i.e. due to a knackered boot on the piston or slider.
Therefore, ignoring fluid change intervals is not a typical cause of this failure mode.
Ignoring the fluid change intervals will result in reduced braking performance though, so get 'em bled if you know you're overdue s:) :) s:)