Newbie questions on fitting a horn

Started by Anonymous, October 26, 2003, 12:52

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Anonymous

I have seen the posts on the FIAAM/Ring horns and being an utter novice with car electronics thought I would give it a go as my first "electrical" type of mod but had a couple of simple questions   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  .

Q1. Do I need to disconnect the battery before starting or pull the fuse for the horn before starting?

Q2. The FIAMM horns include a relay terminal and the instructions talk about a postive activated type (of circuit?) All the posts suggest we can forget about the relay terminal and just use the existing lead and attach it to the +ve terminal of the horn. Is that right?

Q3. Which is the +ve and -ve connections on the horn ? I cannot see any symbols on them and they look identical.

Q4. I have never grounded/earthed anything before and as there is no existing lead and ring connector what do I ask for. I went round Halfords and they had 5mm ring connector with a 10amp rating - is this OK? What specification of wire does it need to connect to and do I need to "crimp" it to attached the ring connector?

Q5. (A) I have yet to get at the OEM horns but are they labelled High note and Low note like the FIAAMs ones? (B) If not, which OEM horn is replaced by the FIAAM High note one and likewise for the Low note?

A lot of questions and I have the helpful Hella horn installation file from SC but are stuck on these.

TIA

Anonymous

#1
If you're talking about the 15quid stright replacement variety rather than the 20quid full-on airhorn type:

1.  I didn't bother.  But it's probably safer too.
2.  Yes, ditch the relay.  Connect the negative back to the mounting bracket, and for the +ve use the single lead that used to go to the OEM horn.
3.  Doesn't matter.
4. I made my own from some mains lead and spade connectors.  So I've no idea what to ask for... but you'll need a spade connector on one end.
5. Doesn't matter, just take the old ones off and replace with the new ones.

If any of the above are unclear, or you need a bit more advice, I'm sure we can expand on the above.

SteveJ

#2
Or alternatively you could nip down to markiii's fully equiped workshop near Welwyn, and we'll help you fit them (Christina makes excellent sausage and bacon butties too!)

So far we have fitted Mark's sportivo, spent a day fitting assorted bits (mudflaps etc) to eight cars, and then a 4 car mamouth TTE/Eibach lowering spring fitting session which took ~1.5 days to complete, so I'm sure fitting horns to one car should be a nice relaxing weekend!

SteveJ
(Mark's unpaid volunteer electrician and DIY guru)

PS. Mark also has copies of the BGB's, so if there are any questions or problems we can always refer to them.

Anonymous

#3
Thanks for the replies guys   s:D :D s:D  

The horns are the £14.99 ones from Halfords.

I have now got some 8amp cable and two 15 amp insulated female spade connectors and two 15amp insulated ring connectors (5mm) to make the earth/ground cables. EDIT**** (5mm don't fit, had to get 10mm)

I see the horn fuse is a 10amp so perhaps I should have gone for a higher rating on the cable   s:? :? s:?   They did have 21amp cable .... EDIT ****(went for 17amp finally)

Re: markiii place, have you had any Herts mini-meets as there seems to be a few of us located in the county or closeby?

Anonymous

#4
 s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  Foiled   s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  

If anyone has pics of how they orientated the FIAAM horns they would be appreciated. The A/C pipes seem to prevent one of the horns going where one of the OEM fitted.

Also did you guys have to remove the red backing of the FIAAM horns in order to get the +ve lead to connect? Or did you cut up the lead's plastic housing?

Still I was able to put all the OEM stuff back and working   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:   just the gap between bumper and bonnet seems bigger   s:x :x s:x  

TIA

Anonymous


Anonymous

#6
I mounted both horns to the right (as you look at the front of the car), rather than one either side.  I bent one of the mounting brackets forward a few degrees, and the other back a few degrees, and then angled one upwards and one downwards.  They do fit.

No, I left the red backing on, but I did make a couple of cables to take the car's +ve (With those big black connectors) to the connectors on the horns.


I have got a piccy of an earlier version where I made a mounting bracket... but I replaced that later with something more rigid (which I don't have pics of).  If you want me to post the piccy with the custom bodge job mounting bracket, let me know... it may be of some use.

Anonymous

#7
krisclarkuk

Thanks for the links. I went through the articles beforehand but re-reading the last one and phil's post have helped.

Think I will just cut off some of the red backing to let the +ve lead access it although I will have to re-route the lead to reach the horns if they are both on the right.

Phil, your pic of your earlier mounting would be useful. I am on broadband at  e mailto:lusaka@dsl.pipex.com">lusaka@dsl.pipex.com e  if you want to post to me direct.

Thanks

Anonymous

#8
Quote from: "Lusaka"I am on broadband at  e mailto:lusaka@dsl.pipex.com">lusaka@dsl.pipex.com e  if you want to post to me direct.

On it's way to you now.

Anonymous

#9
Phil

Thanks, got the email. I while have to wait til Saturday to try it again.

I will make sure I get a few pics done.

Thanks once again.

Anonymous

#10
Success!

Pics below. Required cutting of the red backs (no problem with small hacksaw   s:) :) s:)  ) to enable the power lead to connect to the horn.

Thankfully putting the horns back to front of each of other, meant no need to play with the mounting plates. Re-routing of the power lead around AC pipes required hence the plastic tie band.

Goodbye Mr Noddy horns   s:P :P s:P  


Anonymous

#11
Looks good!

Anonymous

#12
Thanks phil.

For reference in case anyone is doing searches on this subject for future, I have written up a little article and more pics at http://www.apbw47.dsl.pipex.com/fiamm.html

L

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