Srs warning light car wont start?

[Anonymous]

Just jumped into car this morning at it wont start, its not the battery but everytime i try turn the key it makes a consistant ticking noise like a possible sensors stopping it from even trying to start? Also when im doing this all lights flash on and off on dash in same rythym as ticking noise and the only thing that stays on as im trying is the srs warning light? How could this stop car even from starting? What can i check....thanks again.

[Wabbitkilla]

The clicking you're hearing is most likely the starter solenoid.

Sorry, but it does sound like the battery, or something in your car is putting a huge drain on the battery to stop it from engaging the starter properly.

[Anonymous]

Oh dear,  ive just had so many sensor problems thought that might be another issue lol. Ok so shall i just get a new battery then as it seems to have been a gradual thing starting the car although its a rather dramatic "wont start" this time even though i used it last night?

[uktotty]

fully charge the battery and then try again, doesnt sound any more serious than that at this stage

[Anonymous]

Hmmm, but i fear it will only do it again  s:-( :-( s:-(  I guess i could check the battery for its condition? This alternator/battery checker, can you only do that when the car is running or can you check without?

[Wabbitkilla]

You can check the battery and alternator voltages for a start.

The battery should read a good 12volts with no engine running.
With the engine running it should read 14.4V-ish as that's the charging coming from the alternator.
I'm not sure how far it should drop when starting the car, i think it's around 11V.
Another check is to measure the voltage with everything turned off and then disconnect it and measure the voltage, this will give an indication if anything in the primary circuit is draining the battery - you have the alarm but that's minimal. You can also measure the current draw by using your meter between the battery and the disconnected terminal on the car ... it should just be a few mA. WARNING!!! DO NOT TRY AND START THE CAR WHILE DOING THIS!!!
Now, batteries are design to operate optimally for 3 years, after that their performance degrades - some better than others.
Cold weather also reduces the battery efficiency.
So I'd check it to see what charge it up over night on a battery charger and then do the checks above.
Garages can do some smart battery checks to asses the internal state of the batterys cells.

Considering your other issue with the amp, it sounds like there is something odd going on, but i found my battery started to degrade and the next thing that happened was the alternator wouldn't charge the new one properly so the alternator was replaced too.

[Anonymous]

Oh ok, thank you very much for your time  :-) :-) :-)  Im gonna get new batt tomorrow, see if that helps as it does look like it needs a new one from what ive been told. Yeah its weird how cig lighter keeps blowing my adapters, and then sound install keeps playing up then this! Is there something like a volt control block that has failed or something, that isn't keeping the current down or? Just that so many electrics are playing up, i swear this car is cursed!   s:evil: :evil: s:evil:

[mrzwei]

I'm not an expert on this but the voltage output from the alternator is controlled by a regulator, so I would get the alternator checked

[Wabbitkilla]

That's right, the alternator has a voltage regulator built in they can go faulty and usually fry the battery first.
Still worth doing those tests when you get the new battery in ... might spot the cause of some of your problems.

[cclarke99]

14.4 volts is a bit high for the charging voltage, Toyota says 13.2 to 14.0 at 2000rpm. To check the battery, run the engine for long enough to be sure it's fully charger, switch off, turn on all electrical accessories for 60seconds, turn off and measure voltage, should be 12.5 to 12.9V

[Wabbitkilla]

Sorry, my bad ... i was thinking 13.4 but wrote 14.4