My Blue 2000 1MZ MR2 - Jrichards20 Fast Road/Touring Build

[Jrichards20]

So after 3 MR2s, then switching to a lotus, I'm coming back (if some of you hadn't of guessed from my recent posts!)

It has been a recent discussion with the other half about what I was going to do about my addiction to cars and the constant and unnecessary swapping that I have done in the past couple of years. Obviously I'm not as bad as Steve! But I am going to be on my fourth in 3 years! We went through various ideas of keeping the elise and using it for trackdays/sprinting and as my only car. But terribly weak fibreglass body meant any scraps, bumps, large chips cost a fair wack of money and the local bodyshop I trust is an hour and a half drive away. Coupled with the fact that it is uncomfortable and I have never felt a bond with the car, I am going to sell it, plus I've had it for 10months, its time for a change  s:) s:) . Other ideas came up of getting a cheap 4x4/tow car and start doing bike track days instead of car track days, this sounded great, but it left me without a car for my biennial Europe road trip, and I didn't fancy 3000+ miles on a bike in 2weeks. So I started thinking about what would be a perfect Europe Touring Car including the Ring and track days, while allowing comfortable-ish driving when need be. Other cars did pop up like, Mini Cooper John Cooper Works but I still have a massive aching for another MR2.

So I starting creating a list of all the things that my perfect car would need to be able to do, and it seemed the MR2 ticked all of those boxes (with a few subtle mods  s:) s:) )

My perfect car
Weight - 1100kg or less      
MPG - 20+        
Fuel - Petrol
Transmission - Manual (May consider SMT/DSG is all other boxes are ticked <- apart from MR2 SMT)
Cylinders - 4 or 6
0-60 - Less that 6 seconds (including modifications/turbo/engine swaps)
Top Speed - 140+ (we use the autobahn to make up time on the Europe trip and sitting at 120 with a screaming engine is not fun, much easier with a car that can handle it)
Engine Placement - Mid/Rear preferred. If front engine needs to be situated close to the middle as possible, similar to mini so the weight is balanced.
Agility/Grip - Needs to be very good, Must be chuckable and similar handling to an elise.
Ride - Fast Road Set up. Elise is far to bumpy need something more suited to the roads than purely track orientated.
Comfort - Needs to be able to sit happily on the motorway for a couple of hours without trying to dismantle my spine. + be able to incorporate a nice sound system and some technology like a phone holder/sat nav/tablet.  
Price - Less than 10K (including all modification) Would prefer to spend less to start with and slowly build up, than spend 10K all out with nothing left to modify later.

There was more on the list, but its not important, just wanted to show a quick overview of what I want to achieve.

So as of September, I will be on the look out for an MR2. I can buy a cheaper one before the elise is sold. But if a better example comes up, it will have to wait until the elise is sold as I won't have the cash to buy it.

Next to come - planned upgrades.

[Anonymous]

There is a great looking car for £600 at the moment, it's blue in the for sale section. Spend the remaining £9400 on modifications you'd have an awesome car.

Welcome back!

[1979scotte]

There is a great looking car for £600 at the moment, it's blue in the for sale section. Spend the remaining £9400 on modifications you'd have an awesome car.

Welcome back!

Totally agree with Mark.
I spent a few quid on my 06 and have had as many problems as anybody.
Buy cheap and do it up.
You may well be able to get a 2GR conversion with the 9k you'll have left.
That would be a seriously fast car.

[jonty]

this is the sort of stuff I sit about plotting....

With your budget I'd only consider a 6cyl engine:
GR series engine would be awesome, but I don't know what gearboxes bolt up - most of them seemed to come with autos, but does E153 fit?
1mz comes with E153 as standard which is cool... maybe some ITBs on that to boost sound and performance?!

fully refreshed suspension and interior with nice audio and you've got a very nice cruising car...

[Jrichards20]

Planned Upgrades - I'm almost positive that some of these will change along the way, as I notice different items and want them instead  s:) s:)  

Performance (In no particular order)
Upgrade headlights (consumable)
Upgrade Engine. 220bhp+ or over 200bhp per ton (includes exhaust etc) (90% sure on V6, need to confirm price against equivalent options)
Upgraded radiator/cooling? Included in engine upgrade?
Lightweight battery? Included in engine upgrade?
Large C-One Style Side Scoops
Short shift
Front, Midship Bracing
Upgraded Brake Pads, discs and hoses, possibly calipers? (is this needed)
Coilovers/Lowering Springs? What is necessary, my old turbo had standard shocks and springs and it was fine for road use. Maybe tein springs or equivalent will be enough?
Sp12s if any are around, or equivalent
Half Alcanatara/Half Leather seats, but OEM.
Gearstick Cage Mounts and bushes
Half Roll cage - in use with soft top? Opinions on this? Would save me £500 but worth it for safety and stiffness?
Splitter, Diffuser, Canards and Spoiler.
Small bump ariel.

Appearance Mods
Headlight Covers - Vinyl, not spending money on the expensive ones because i'm cheap!
Larger Centre console - the same one as Muffdans
Engine Start stop button - again similar to Muffdans
Embedded Touchscreen/Sat Nav/Radio in standard radio place.
Keyhole covers
Daytime Running Lights
Upgraded Speakers
Darkened Side repeaters
Midship badges
Rover Armrest.

So with these I'm looking at about £8Ks worth of mods. This will probably be done over about 2 years, and hopefully trying to find some cheaper alternatives.

So I can spend about 2K upfront on a car, it looks as if I wont have the budget for paintwork/wrapping, so colour and bodywork condition is going to play a part in my search, unless the car is that much cheaper that it factors in some rejuvenation to the bodywork.

If anyone has any advice, opinions help etc, please let me know, I am probably going to need all the help I can, and hopefully build a car that I am going to be able to stick with  s:) s:)

[jonty]

Personally I wouldn't go with the canards and diffuser etc, and instead keep the bodywork nice and factory but as low as is practical on really good fitment 17" wheels ( fitment like current high spec BMW/Audi, rather than 'stance' look) as I think this suits a road orientated car better... but it's personal choice of course.

[Jrichards20]

Totally agree with Mark.
I spent a few quid on my 06 and have had as many problems as anybody.
Buy cheap and do it up.
You may well be able to get a 2GR conversion with the 9k you'll have left.
That would be a seriously fast car.

Problem with spending the majority on a 2GR is it leaves little left for handling mods. I need to do some research into the prices of the different engines and the power figures that they all produce.

Personally I wouldn't go with the canards and diffuser etc, and instead keep the bodywork nice and factory but as low as is practical on really good fitment 17" wheels ( fitment like current high spec BMW/Audi, rather than 'stance' look) as I think this suits a road orientated car better... but it's personal choice of course.

Do you not think the splitter and diffuser will have enough of a beneficial impact on the downforce? I agree, I don't want this looking like a mishmash of parts or some boy racer car, and the OEM look is better. I haven't seen many, which is probably going to answer my next question, is there not OEM looking splitters/diffusers around, maybe due the current body shap they don't provide as much benefit for the price.

[Anonymous]

Having a flat bottom made will increase downforce by a long way. This can be made out of 4mm plastic sheet cut to fit and I believe rogue has even run with something similar.

[1979scotte]

There is always K20.
Expensive but very upgradable.

[jonty]

Do you not think the splitter and diffuser will have enough of a beneficial impact on the downforce? I agree, I don't want this looking like a mishmash of parts or some boy racer car, and the OEM look is better. I haven't seen many, which is probably going to answer my next question, is there not OEM looking splitters/diffusers around, maybe due the current body shap they don't provide as much benefit for the price.

I think a flat floor is really only going to be of benefit on a track car; for a road car I don't think you're going to be pushing into the bends fast enough to make a difference - my 200sx has a complete flat floor on the to-do-list to make it faster on track, but as a road car it is already too grippy to be entertaining at anything like responsible speeds, let alone legal speeds. Rather than taking an extra 1/2 inch off your ride height, I reckon the car overall would look better being lowered that bit extra. I'm going to shamelessly photo-whore myself here:



This is 17" wheels with 40mm lowering springs, and it already grounds getting out of my driveway... if you had a splitter or underfloor, this would only get worse, and IMO it'd still look better being another 5-10 lower up front...

[Topdownman]

Glad to hear you are thinking of coming back.

I think looking at a cheap car is a good start as you can then change all the brakes and suspension to get it working as it should before the new engine goes in.

I have done this with mine with reconditioned rear calipers, rebuilt front calipers, new standard discs and front pads (the rears were done last year), new handbrake cables and HEL braided hoses. The brakes are now excellent and I feel more than powerful enough for my needs. When I dropped the car off at Woodsport Paul drove it and straight away asked me if I had upgraded the brakes. I have gone for new MeisterR coilovers and the improvement over 11 yr old shocks is great. I think this was about £1100-1200 plus fitting costs. My car as a 70k 04 would be relatively pricy and yet it still needed all these doing anyway so potentially paying more for the carand then doing it anyway.

I would think about anything like facelight lights and bumpers that you may want on a pfl. Oh, and you only get 5 speed in the V6 so you may not want to lose a cog if you get a FL!

Another benefit could be that if you are keeping the LSD then it may as well come from a pretty worthless gearbox so you are not giving up a box that could be sold?

The Woodsport conversions do include a new upgraded rad but not a change of battery.

If it was me I would reorder your list into must haves and then the improvements that can follow when time/funds allow as we all know they are never actually finished are they....

[Lee H]

this is the sort of stuff I sit about plotting....

With your budget I'd only consider a 6cyl engine:
GR series engine would be awesome, but I don't know what gearboxes bolt up - most of them seemed to come with autos, but does E153 fit?
1mz comes with E153 as standard which is cool... maybe some ITBs on that to boost sound and performance?!

fully refreshed suspension and interior with nice audio and you've got a very nice cruising car...

I'd not bother with an E153 on a 1MZ. Its heavy and a load of hassle to fit in a Roadster compared to the S54 and isn't really needed unless running decent power with a turbo.

[JoeCool]

I take it you've discounted Boxsters and 911's?

If I had 10K and your list of requirements, they'd be winning out. They do everything you want and more, and are a tonne more refined on Roadtrips than an upgraded MR2!

Example:  m http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/ ... 8115970118 m

Boxster:  m http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/ ... 7145192445 m

Depends. If you want to spend years upgrading, fault finding, tuning and tweaking then I understand that. But if you want a fast capable car to just hop in and enjoy, I think you'd not go far wrong with a Boxster...

[Lee H]

Running costs are astronomical on a 911 if something goes wrong which with an NA appears rather likely. I'm on pins every time I turn the key, however its lovely to look at parked on the drive!   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:

[Jrichards20]

911s are my favourite car. My dad has had them for years and loads of different ones, 1982 Targa SC. And a GTS. That's what attracted me to the MR2 is had the same view from inside the car  s:) s:)  But as Lee has said. The running costs are bonkers! When looking at the Elise it was between that and buying the targa off of him, but the running costs between the two where massive!

I will have one, one day. But I think running a V6 mr2 will be a lot cheaper than a 911. I would love to be proved otherwise believe me. But from what I know, they are cheap vs super car costs.

[Lee H]

Nothing has gone majorly wrong yet but only done about 900 miles in 10 months in it. Had a major service £400, plugs and coilpacks £300 and new tyres £600 so far  s:x :x s:x

[ChrisGB]

If you want an MR2 with a six pot, you are spending on labour, so may as well go large on the engine. 2GR-FE prices are coming down, a brand new crate engine can be had for just under £4K, so used ones should be less. An E153 with a long final drive or a six speed EA series should cope with the torque.

The 2GR torque is effortless and smoothly delivered. With long gearing, you may see 30mpg. Only trouble is that you won't have money left over for cosmetics. The acceleration should take your mind off that though.

Have to say, the car you initially described already exists, it's called a Lotus Europa.

[Jrichards20]

A lotus Europe will set me back little under 20K. And I'm not a fan of the back of them, I have never been in one, but with a similar set up to an Elise, I'm sure the ride is still rather harsh. And being British it will have the trademark rattles  s:) s:)  cheaper to get a 911  s:) s:)  

Definitely look into the 2gr. I think a long chat with woodsport is going to be needed.

[Jrichards20]

Picked up the Mr2 on Friday evening, no MOT, so took it straight to the nearest MOT testers to get a cheeky one in.  I really wasn't expecting it to pass, but for £35 it gives the car a quick once over for any major problems and what it needs some to get road worthy.

So it failed, as expected, but on, headlights too yellow, no windscreen washer fluid, handbrake resistance and rear light out. So to get it an MoT, it's going to cost me practically nothing as I can do all of that myself. So bonus there!!

After a quick blat home there are a few things that I need to look into.

There is an awful lot of play in the steering wheel, especially at high speeds, it can almost go 45degrees each way at 70 with no change in direction. Any thought??? I'm hoping it's just going to be the suspension or something around that, I plan to put in coilovers and new arbs but worried it won't cure it?

The bonnet sticks up at the front, didn't notice on test drive   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  looks like there has been a small impact, need to take a proper look underneath to see if there is any serious damage. I'm looking to get a TS bumper so not too worried just structural needs to be in damaged.

The engine has done an awful lot of miles, but still runs! At about 2.5K rpm it had a complete flat spot where there is no power whatsoever, feels like it almost skips up to 3k and starts pulling again. Major issue? I would like the engine to last 6months  s:) s:)  any way I can prelong and is the hesitant throttle likely to be MAF related?

I will chuck the ObD reader on it soon and see if it's throwing up anything serious.

I have also spoken to Paul at wood sports and a few guys at dong day, and even though the 2zz has a lot of power, and bloody hell that lift is fun and far more of a punch and hold your breath moment than I thought it would be. I think the V6 is going to suit my needs more.

I know I have been told to go for the 2GR, but it won't leave me a lot to play around with suspension etc and I think 325bhp could be a bit much in an MR2. Woodsport no longer do 3MZ conversions so it would have to be the 1MZ from the Lexus with VVTi. Giving iirc over 200ft lb of torque from basically the word go! And if I feel like I need more power later on the line, I don't think a super charger would be out of the means, waiting for confirmation from Paul on that one though.

Once it's got an MOT and had a good look over a polish and a clean I will post some pictures up!

[Anonymous]

Hi josh was a pleasure to meet you today. Sounds like the steering knuckle might need replacing that the only part I can think of that would cause some play in steering like that. I need to get one myself!

As far as flat spot, I'd change the plugs, clean the maf and reset the ecu. Might be worth checking for codes too, out of interest.

I've just spend 10 mins looking at the specs of the 1mz, I think it's a good choice. Andy Ayres says his v6 has too much power (or at least Patrick said that) so although all out nuts, maybe not the best engine to live with.

The 2zz is good fun and for track it will be well suited but as you found, to use it on the road you've got to plan far ahead and have it ready in the right gear. A Torquay v6 will be different.

With a 1mz you'll still have money left to do what else you want. Let's be honest no one has bottomless pockets so you will have to make a compromise on your overall plan, not just the engine, and I think that is the best compromise all over.

If you need any hands on help let me know, I've got tools and know how to break things  s:) s:)

[1979scotte]

Get the froot out and see what that steering uj looks like.
TCB do replacements that have been used by a few members without complaints.
1mz vvti is probably the sensible option. 2gr is massive power (too much? ) is more costly requires e153 etc.
3vz too old and heavy. 3mz not available in the UK my personal favourite makes 242 ft lb at just 3600 rpm.
K20 would be my NA 4 pot choice.

[Topdownman]

Thats great news about the reasons for the fail. Its also good that they didnt pick up on any play in the steering etc. I would get the tracking checked to see if that improves things but at least you can get the car on the road asap while you plan the rest of the work eh? Given the low cost of the car you should end up with a great car for your budget.

Get on the Woodsport waiting list asap though! Looking forward to the build thread....

[Jrichards20]

You to mark! Ah ok, well il change that and probably the uj as well. Yeah I thInk the 1MZ is going to be the way forward. I'm sure I will call upon you for a fair few bits! Did you do the coilovers yourself?

I was thinking of the Honda, but haven't seen any set in stone, drive in drive out conversions. And I would guess a K20 would be similar price to 2Gr.

As topdownman, great to meet you btw, advised to reorder my list, I've detailed what needs to be done asap and then what can come along later!

All items to pass MOT
Headlight polish, might as well put HIDs in there at the same time
Windscreen wipers, lightweight ones (marks looked nice)
Windscreen wash
Handbrake cable, will just tighten it, but will need to be replaced at some point.
Rear light bulbs.

Then is going to be complete suspension and steering upgrade.
New steering knuckle and uj
Upgraded ARBs
Coilovers (after testing BC coilovers they seem perfect!! Would be around the two softest settings, will need to look into other cheaper options if available as if I'm using them on softest option maybe I don't need that expensive Coilies.
While I'm there, anything rusty or needing preserving will be changed and hammerited.

If all issues are then solved, it's time to get my name down on the waiting list for engine transfer and do some prep for that.

The soft top is well and truly shot, so as soon as I can get my hands on a hardtop il be stripping the softtop and fitting the hardtop.
Lovely new brake fluid will be added, already has HEL braided lines and refurb calipers so they will stay, but EBC discs and pads will need to go on.
Hopefully my team dynamics wide wheels with R888s will fit, so they will go on.

(Planned engine in!) -with radiator, battery, clutch etc.
gearstick cage mounts and bushes???

Front and midship bracing

Then onto appearance mods.
TS front bumper.
Side skirts
Modified rear bumper

Spoiler. Underneath sheeting with diffuser lip, splitter.

And the rest can come in any order, I'm sure il see some bits pop up and grab them early  s:) s:)  

Large C-One Style Side Scoops
Wrap in black.
Short shift
Half Alcanatara/Half Leather seats, but OEM.
Small bump ariel.
Headlight Covers - Vinyl, not spending money on the expensive ones because i'm cheap!
Larger Centre console - the same one as Muffdans
Engine Start stop button - again similar to Muffdans
Embedded Touchscreen/Sat Nav/Radio in standard radio place.
Keyhole covers
Daytime Running Lights
Upgraded Speakers
Darkened Side repeaters
Midship badges
Rover Armrest.

I'm slowly gathering pictures of various roadsters to get some ideas, and hopefully create some sort of collage for what I want to get it like  s:) s:)

[tomaky]

A man with a plan!
All ill say is with wide wheels especially rears id advise against HEL hoses. I nearly had a big accidentally recently, this was due to that combo, the problem with the HELs is the middle bracket isnt fixed to the hose like stock ones and goodridge. This allows the pipe to move which although i got away with it for nearly 2 years. I fit toyos and it must have been the extra soft sidewalls bulging but i had rubbing and failure. Was very lucky to get away with it!

[Anonymous]

A man with a plan!
All ill say is with wide wheels especially rears id advise against HEL hoses. I nearly had a big accidentally recently, this was due to that combo, the problem with the HELs is the middle bracket isnt fixed to the hose like stock ones and goodridge. This allows the pipe to move which although i got away with it for nearly 2 years. I fit toyos and it must have been the extra soft sidewalls bulging but i had rubbing and failure. Was very lucky to get away with it!

Jesus, worrying.

You just need the clips from eBay which are about £2, I also put s mini cable tie on the clip to make sure it's not going anywhere.