M1tch's long term 1ZZ build - Project 11

[m1tch]

Softtop has now been removed, the softtop on its own (there will be some extra weight from some of the brackets and bolts) came to exactly 20kg.

Just trying to scroll through and find out how much the hardtop weighed, I have a feeling that it was slightly more than the soft top plus the extra bracket weight etc.

Edit - hardtop came in at 23.1kg so removal of the soft top for the hardtop increases the weight slightly - I guess I could look to swap out the latches which would save a bit of weight as well.

Also worth noting that I am also now running modded seatbelt mounts (as the softtop is part of the bracket), so I have added a bit of weight to run those to retain the stock seatbelts.

[m1tch]

Currently in the process of working out the engine bearings, will probably aim to run ACL standard bi metal bearings - they are more forgiving and should be fine, might even run Toyota OEM.

Currently looking at wheels and tyres for the car, have been looking at what the most common wider tyre is on the market, looks to be a 255/40/17 which is 6% out which I can correct with the Link ECU. Should mount onto a 17x9 rim, currently looking at options for the front wheels - will be staggered setup but looks like I am going to have to go with 17s all round rather than 15s.

Just looking at the 'will it fit' site, here are the specs on the rear:

Stock 16x7, 215/45/16 with an ET45 offset vs 17x9, 255/40/17 with an ET25 offset (example is some Rota Grid wheels) - the new wheels are:

5.4mm closer to the strut tower
45.4mm poke vs stock

Might look to run a 17x7.5 on the front - tyre sizes of 215/40/17 - running 17x7.5 on the front with an ET of 35 will run 9.1mm closer to the suspension with a 29.1mm poke from the stock setup - might need to look into the front as this might require a spacer if I can't get a lower ET wheel.

Planning to roll the arches/fit extensions anyway - will look at options as I know the stock wheels don't come to the edge of the arches as they are - might run a 2" arch extension.

Also in the process of upgrading the rear lights with LEDs for longevity, also still adjusting the handbrake, both cables move fine, think I just need to drive the car a bit more to get the calipers working.

[m1tch]

I have now purchased a lighter exhaust, the TTE does sound really good, however is apparently weighs 13.7kg - not too bad although the stock exhaust is apparently around 12.5kg, anyway the replacement exhaust (without tip/additional rear muffler) comes to 6.5kg.

Plan is to run the lighter exhaust without any additional rear muffler - just a single box for racing, I am then planning to fit a short stubby bike can onto the exhaust for road use.

[Smcknighty]

You want to sell the tte?


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[m1tch]

You want to sell the tte?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will be at some point - when mentioning on the Facebook group there were many takers for it!

Current 'to do' list for the car:

Exhaust

Order gasket for cat to exhaust connector
Mod lightweight exhaust to length taking into account additional 90 degree elbow
Fit lightweight exhaust and check sound levels with and without additional bike exhaust

Brakes

Change rear brake pads and discs - probably change front as well

Bodywork

Continue any spot rust treatment under the car - paint up any components that need extra protection

Suspension

Order Whiteline front and rear upgraded ARBs
Fit coilovers (when they arrive)

Tuning

Reinstall wideband O2 sensor and gauge
Check tune of PFC maps I currently have - some custom, some MWR maps
Refit Link Xtreme and troubleshoot no start issue (awaiting basemap from tuner)

[m1tch]

I have refitted the PFC to the car, wideband O2 sensor is currently in one of the OEM locations, will look to get another bung added soon.

I have managed to find an AFR table and manually copied it into Copilot - will be doing some more logs with the MWR basemap on the PFC, should be fairly simple to then match up the fueling by cell, have already looked a the logs so far so I can see exactly where in the map the ECU is looking for data, overlaying this with the AFR table I have seems to make sense. I have also been running the wideband and the stock ECU together, generally the stock ECU runs 14.7-16 on idle and cruise, runs to 14 ish on very light throttle, richest it has been at full throttle high load has been down to around 12.3. The AFR table I have just copied over into Copilot seems to support this with the very top end of the cells being read have a target of 12 with low load at the low 14s, mid RPM, mid load are mid to high 13s which seems to match off against the stock ECU. Will get the fueling sorted first, knock is always being logged and the MWR basemap is quite rich with very very conservative ignition and VVTi.

[m1tch]

Just a quick update with regards to the weight removal from the car, its worth noting that only running a hardtop and removing the softtop doesn't really give much weight saving as the hardtop is heavier than the softtop and you also need the brackets for the hardtop. The swap for me made sense as the hardtop is quieter, warmer and won't leak like the softtop (mine was original), coupled with a larger rear window plus the added security of the car.

Below are a few additional items I have removed/will remove when converting from 'road trim' to 'race trim':

Evap canister - 776g, replaced with a dirtbike breather tank valve at negligible weight.
Evap canister bracket - 228g
Door trims (that go along the sills) - 482 (driver side) so 964g for both
Trim to the side of the pedals - 206g (driver side) so 412 for both sides, although will probably leave these in so I don't kick the connectors next to the pedal
Assorted nuts and bolts from removal of soft top - 191
Lock down bracket in the centre of the crossbar - 235g
Metal strip that wraps around the back of the car clamping softtop into place - 432g
OEM alarm siren - 555g
Airbox with no filter - currently running just a filter, OEM MAF pipe and connector behind battery now - 1125g, replacement filter is probably about 500g so 625g saving
Heat shield on rear subframe that encases OEM airbox - 761g
Additional aerial wiring - 33g

Additional weight saving for race trim - 4,800g

61.87kg previous weight saving in 'race' trim - 66.67kg weight saving so far - might be a slight variance now though as some parts are estimated but biggest interesting thing I have found so far is the hardtop is heavier than the soft top.

Please also note that even with all of the weight removed in 'race' trim, the car still has full carpet, door cards, OEM HVAC, standard heavy battery etc - goal for weight saving overall is to remove the same weight as the driver - I currently weigh 80kg, however plan to reduce my weight a bit anyway, I have a feeling that a lighter battery and the lighter exhaust and cat should tip me over the goal. Might even aim for a round 100kg - 10% weight loss from the car but just having a 'free' driver is a pretty good goal for a road car I think.

[Kaveney]

I am doing the same thing and the list below is what I have removed so far and a rough weight for each part removed / replaced with a lightweight unit .


WEIGHT REDUCTION    

SPEAR WHEEL    12KG
SPAR WHEEL BIN AND LID    5KG
TOOL KIT    3KG
REAR STORAGE BINS    6KG
FLOOR MATS   2KG
WIND DEFLECTOR    1KG
EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD    1KG
EXHAUST SPLASH BOTTOM SHIELD    1KG
FOG LIGHTS    1KG
OLD EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH PRE CATS    3KG
MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD    1KG
OLD STOCK CAT AND DOWN PIPE    4KG
OLD EXHAUST SYSTEM    4KG
REAR STORAGE SOUND COVER    2KG
AREIL    2KG
SOUND TAR    3KG
ECU PLATE    1KG
STUFFING FOOT WELL    1KG
MANIFOLD BRACKET   3KG
STRUT BRACE PLATES F / R    1KG
REAR BUMPER BARS    1KG
DRIVER AND PASSENGER AIR BAG    7KG
LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL    5KG
SPORTS CAT   4KG
RACE BATTERY    8KG
   
TOTAL WEIGHT REMOVED   82KG

Just a quick update with regards to the weight removal from the car, its worth noting that only running a hardtop and removing the softtop doesn't really give much weight saving as the hardtop is heavier than the softtop and you also need the brackets for the hardtop. The swap for me made sense as the hardtop is quieter, warmer and won't leak like the softtop (mine was original), coupled with a larger rear window plus the added security of the car.

Below are a few additional items I have removed/will remove when converting from 'road trim' to 'race trim':

Evap canister - 776g, replaced with a dirtbike breather tank valve at negligible weight.
Evap canister bracket - 228g
Door trims (that go along the sills) - 482 (driver side) so 964g for both
Trim to the side of the pedals - 206g (driver side) so 412 for both sides, although will probably leave these in so I don't kick the connectors next to the pedal
Assorted nuts and bolts from removal of soft top - 191
Lock down bracket in the centre of the crossbar - 235g
Metal strip that wraps around the back of the car clamping softtop into place - 432g
OEM alarm siren - 555g
Airbox with no filter - currently running just a filter, OEM MAF pipe and connector behind battery now - 1125g, replacement filter is probably about 500g so 625g saving
Heat shield on rear subframe that encases OEM airbox - 761g
Additional aerial wiring - 33g

Additional weight saving for race trim - 4,800g

61.87kg previous weight saving in 'race' trim - 66.67kg weight saving so far - might be a slight variance now though as some parts are estimated but biggest interesting thing I have found so far is the hardtop is heavier than the soft top.

Please also note that even with all of the weight removed in 'race' trim, the car still has full carpet, door cards, OEM HVAC, standard heavy battery etc - goal for weight saving overall is to remove the same weight as the driver - I currently weigh 80kg, however plan to reduce my weight a bit anyway, I have a feeling that a lighter battery and the lighter exhaust and cat should tip me over the goal. Might even aim for a round 100kg - 10% weight loss from the car but just having a 'free' driver is a pretty good goal for a road car I think.

[m1tch]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

[Nvy]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

[1979scotte]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

It's still a piggyback no experience of the AEM but they all have their drawbacks.
For high boost like m1tch is going for standalone is a must.

[Nvy]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

It's still a piggyback no experience of the AEM but they all have their drawbacks.
For high boost like m1tch is going for standalone is a must.

I totally agree on that but the way the group buy on the Ecumaster black is going i started looking at other options and aem f/ic look quite nice on paper. Plus the ecumaster is going to be in parallel to the OEM Ecu so its close as a setup in my opinion. On the plus side aem + boost controller 2nd hand will go way cheaper.

If the Ecumaster supplier gets our cars running well and makes a good deal on non UK members who does not require mapping and fitting id be up for it.

[1979scotte]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

It's still a piggyback no experience of the AEM but they all have their drawbacks.
For high boost like m1tch is going for standalone is a must.

I totally agree on that but the way the group buy on the Ecumaster black is going i started looking at other options and aem f/ic look quite nice on paper. Plus the ecumaster is going to be in parallel to the OEM Ecu so its close as a setup in my opinion. On the plus side aem + boost controller 2nd hand will go way cheaper.

If the Ecumaster supplier gets our cars running well and makes a good deal on non UK members who does not require mapping and fitting id be up for it.

For 4 cylinder applications the ECU master det3 is pretty good.
The spec on the AEM is good but I would save for a standalone.

[m1tch]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

They would require the block, think my 1zz is the first they have done - each block is different and each CSS is custom fit to the engine, blocks are cheap though - worth sourcing a used block to rebuild anyway as you will get spares of parts you can then pick and choose from. Example being is that the crank out of the first engine was good (but UPS dropped the block), the block from the 2nd engine is good but not the crank due to a spun big end bearing. You also get extra shims for the cylinder head when you need to adjust clearances for the cams.

I will speak with the machine shop as to how high they are rating the stock block with CSS, its done quite a bit on Honda engines, looks like the K20 with CSS is rated to 800whp (with O rings it can handle over 800whp) on stock sleeves, they are currently listing the 1zz/2zz as rated to 700whp. The CSS works out better value than sleeving the block,coupled with the fact that if you do sleeve the block the engine is still open deck and the top of the sleeves still aren't supported. The gearbox is the limiting factor in my build, still looking at options but the JUBA gearset is rated to 295 ft/lbs but should be able to handle more - engine is only 0.5mm overbore so torque will be down slightly vs a fully bored out 82mm build. I can also adjust the VVTi to keep the torque in check coupled with some ignition adjustments after shifting to avoid shock loads on the box.

I have a Link Xtreme ECU which I am currently working on configuring to run on my car, will be needing to swap to a MAP sensor which is fine as I would need to anyway for the turbo, my Link Xtreme is actually wired in as a piggyback, but only for aspects of the stock ECU that are hard to replicate - everything else is standalone. Will allow me to run traction control, boost control, launch control, antilag/2 step as well as the option to have cruise control if I wanted it.

Its also worth noting that my custom pistons are 9.5:1, probably closer to 9.8:1 once the head is skimmed, this might sound quite high for a boosted application but with modern ECUs with knock protection it isn't an issue anymore. Back in the 90s you would need to run a lower compression engine to prevent knock as the ECUs weren't very powerful. Talking with the machine shop (who work on a lot of Honda builds) most of their turbo builds are stock compression, and considering the current Ford Ecoboost engines are 10:1 compression I am fine with running slightly higher compression.

The almost stock compression ratio on my build will mean that the turbo will spool up faster, its more driveable off boost and the engine is more efficient when under boost - basically the engine will make more power vs a lower compression engine. I was planning to go with the 8.8:1 Wiesco pistons but the compression ratio is a bit too low, and also quite expensive to import over here so went custom, didn't go with additional gas ports as I won't be running much over 400bhp.

Just looking at fueling, will probably aim for something like a set of ID850s with a Walbro 255 pump, return line and a 1:1 RR FPR.

[Nvy]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

They would require the block, think my 1zz is the first they have done - each block is different and each CSS is custom fit to the engine, blocks are cheap though - worth sourcing a used block to rebuild anyway as you will get spares of parts you can then pick and choose from. Example being is that the crank out of the first engine was good (but UPS dropped the block), the block from the 2nd engine is good but not the crank due to a spun big end bearing. You also get extra shims for the cylinder head when you need to adjust clearances for the cams.

I will speak with the machine shop as to how high they are rating the stock block with CSS, its done quite a bit on Honda engines, looks like the K20 with CSS is rated to 800whp (with O rings it can handle over 800whp) on stock sleeves, they are currently listing the 1zz/2zz as rated to 700whp. The CSS works out better value than sleeving the block,coupled with the fact that if you do sleeve the block the engine is still open deck and the top of the sleeves still aren't supported. The gearbox is the limiting factor in my build, still looking at options but the JUBA gearset is rated to 295 ft/lbs but should be able to handle more - engine is only 0.5mm overbore so torque will be down slightly vs a fully bored out 82mm build. I can also adjust the VVTi to keep the torque in check coupled with some ignition adjustments after shifting to avoid shock loads on the box.

I have a Link Xtreme ECU which I am currently working on configuring to run on my car, will be needing to swap to a MAP sensor which is fine as I would need to anyway for the turbo, my Link Xtreme is actually wired in as a piggyback, but only for aspects of the stock ECU that are hard to replicate - everything else is standalone. Will allow me to run traction control, boost control, launch control, antilag/2 step as well as the option to have cruise control if I wanted it.

Its also worth noting that my custom pistons are 9.5:1, probably closer to 9.8:1 once the head is skimmed, this might sound quite high for a boosted application but with modern ECUs with knock protection it isn't an issue anymore. Back in the 90s you would need to run a lower compression engine to prevent knock as the ECUs weren't very powerful. Talking with the machine shop (who work on a lot of Honda builds) most of their turbo builds are stock compression, and considering the current Ford Ecoboost engines are 10:1 compression I am fine with running slightly higher compression.

The almost stock compression ratio on my build will mean that the turbo will spool up faster, its more driveable off boost and the engine is more efficient when under boost - basically the engine will make more power vs a lower compression engine. I was planning to go with the 8.8:1 Wiesco pistons but the compression ratio is a bit too low, and also quite expensive to import over here so went custom, didn't go with additional gas ports as I won't be running much over 400bhp.

Just looking at fueling, will probably aim for something like a set of ID850s with a Walbro 255 pump, return line and a 1:1 RR FPR.

"my Link Xtreme is actually wired in as a piggyback" - thats why i was looking at the cheaper AEM f/ic coz it has MAP integrated and id only need boost controller. Also i had a look on some reviews and ppl rate them rly good and easy to work with.

On the CSS i have seen some honda ones to sell separately thats why im asking. Im located in Bulgaria and i cannot afford to buy a block from UK that i have never seen.

[m1tch]

Just had an update from the machine shop, the CSS is almost done, will then be boring out 0.5mm, custom pistons and Molnar rods have also arrived, should hopefully get everything back soon and I can then start building a clean room for engine building.

Looking to also do another set of drag runs next month to see what the weight reduction has done with the drag time.

Can they supply one if we order from them w/o sending them the block? Im also turboing next year and want to collect some prices and parts

Also did you have a look on AEM f/ic 6 seems quite okay if its paired with a boost controller?

They would require the block, think my 1zz is the first they have done - each block is different and each CSS is custom fit to the engine, blocks are cheap though - worth sourcing a used block to rebuild anyway as you will get spares of parts you can then pick and choose from. Example being is that the crank out of the first engine was good (but UPS dropped the block), the block from the 2nd engine is good but not the crank due to a spun big end bearing. You also get extra shims for the cylinder head when you need to adjust clearances for the cams.

I will speak with the machine shop as to how high they are rating the stock block with CSS, its done quite a bit on Honda engines, looks like the K20 with CSS is rated to 800whp (with O rings it can handle over 800whp) on stock sleeves, they are currently listing the 1zz/2zz as rated to 700whp. The CSS works out better value than sleeving the block,coupled with the fact that if you do sleeve the block the engine is still open deck and the top of the sleeves still aren't supported. The gearbox is the limiting factor in my build, still looking at options but the JUBA gearset is rated to 295 ft/lbs but should be able to handle more - engine is only 0.5mm overbore so torque will be down slightly vs a fully bored out 82mm build. I can also adjust the VVTi to keep the torque in check coupled with some ignition adjustments after shifting to avoid shock loads on the box.

I have a Link Xtreme ECU which I am currently working on configuring to run on my car, will be needing to swap to a MAP sensor which is fine as I would need to anyway for the turbo, my Link Xtreme is actually wired in as a piggyback, but only for aspects of the stock ECU that are hard to replicate - everything else is standalone. Will allow me to run traction control, boost control, launch control, antilag/2 step as well as the option to have cruise control if I wanted it.

Its also worth noting that my custom pistons are 9.5:1, probably closer to 9.8:1 once the head is skimmed, this might sound quite high for a boosted application but with modern ECUs with knock protection it isn't an issue anymore. Back in the 90s you would need to run a lower compression engine to prevent knock as the ECUs weren't very powerful. Talking with the machine shop (who work on a lot of Honda builds) most of their turbo builds are stock compression, and considering the current Ford Ecoboost engines are 10:1 compression I am fine with running slightly higher compression.

The almost stock compression ratio on my build will mean that the turbo will spool up faster, its more driveable off boost and the engine is more efficient when under boost - basically the engine will make more power vs a lower compression engine. I was planning to go with the 8.8:1 Wiesco pistons but the compression ratio is a bit too low, and also quite expensive to import over here so went custom, didn't go with additional gas ports as I won't be running much over 400bhp.

Just looking at fueling, will probably aim for something like a set of ID850s with a Walbro 255 pump, return line and a 1:1 RR FPR.

"my Link Xtreme is actually wired in as a piggyback" - thats why i was looking at the cheaper AEM f/ic coz it has MAP integrated and id only need boost controller. Also i had a look on some reviews and ppl rate them rly good and easy to work with.

On the CSS i have seen some honda ones to sell separately thats why im asking. Im located in Bulgaria and i cannot afford to buy a block from UK that i have never seen.

The Link has knock protection as well as a huge number of other features, something like the AEM EMS would just adjust fueling and ignition but not have other engine protection features.

With regards to the CSS, as its quite common for Honda builds they would usually have stock whereas its very very uncommon to have CSS on a 1zz or 2zz, mine is probably the first in the UK.

I have just ordered some front and rear Whiteline ARBs to replace the current worn out standard ones, will look to swap them out once my coilovers arrive.

[m1tch]

Tiny update, have decided to call my project 'Project 11' as one of the goals is to run an 11 second 1/4 mile time - and everything is turned up to 11

[shnazzle]

Having recently spent a few hours at Santa Pod and having seen what kind of machines struggled to run in the 11s... All the best.
Would be WELL impressive

[Call the midlife!]

I find it hard to do 11s in mine. But that's down to the grip from the Toyos...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[m1tch]

Having recently spent a few hours at Santa Pod and having seen what kind of machines struggled to run in the 11s... All the best.
Would be WELL impressive

Saw on the MR2 Spyder Facebook group that someone was running an 11 with around 350whp or so on a built 1zz running full interior etc, should be able to attain it, will be running boost by gear and traction control.

I guess we will see, won't be running that sort of power day to day so currently looking into turbos that are ok to flow enough for 400bhp (need around 41 lb/min) for 21psi, but still ok to run lower boost and spool lower down which is why I am looking at BB turbos - GTX or EFR.

[m1tch]

Should be running the car at Santapod on the 23rd, not been able to swap over the exhaust as of yet but already have a pretty good weight saving vs stock as well as a different induction system.

I will see if I am ok to run the PFC as well, not 100% happy with the tune but might be ok to run it and see what happens.

[shnazzle]

I've just blanked my emanage last night and there was a rather noticeable decrease in "oomph".
I've had the emanage on for years now so I got used to it.
Biggest noticeable change is that the extra bit of fueling and advance from the piggy makes for a much more lively throttle. Even if it doesn't add much total horsepower (and possibly lose some on the top end), I think it'll add some benefit on the Pod

[m1tch]

I've just blanked my emanage last night and there was a rather noticeable decrease in "oomph".
I've had the emanage on for years now so I got used to it.
Biggest noticeable change is that the extra bit of fueling and advance from the piggy makes for a much more lively throttle. Even if it doesn't add much total horsepower (and possibly lose some on the top end), I think it'll add some benefit on the Pod

I am going to check through a few maps I have for the PFC, I agree though, a tweak in the VVTI, ignition and fueling does make quite a bit of difference mid range to take advantage of the increase in airflow though the engine.

I am going to check my fuel trims later from the stock ECU, seems to be running rich on the over run and do get a few pops in the exhaust (although might indicate a leaking exhaust join somewhere).

Think I might reinstall my wideband O2 sensor and gauge just to check the mixture on the PFC, currently running Shell V power to give me a bit more of a safety margin in terms of knock if the tune isn't 100%. I have a feeling that the O2 feedback setting might be messing with the tune a bit, hopefully get everything sorted and tested before this coming weekend.

[m1tch]

I have just got back from Santapod and have the results of the experiment around weight saving and extra power via the PFC - note that the car is on 176k miles.

Here is my initial baseline run - only mods for this was the decat manifold and drop in filter, was running 100% stock weight, stock tyre pressures:

2.2833 second 60 foot
15.8627 second 1/4 mile
86.86mph terminal

Best run on the stock ECU with around 60kg weight saving (will work out the exact amount later) although was still running 2/3 of a tank, stock tyre pressures:

2.1302 second 60 foot (best 60 foot was a 2.0917)
15.1987 second 1/4 mile
88.39mph terminal

I then plugged in my partly tuned PFC - VVTi tweaks, ignition advance, fueling 4k rpm+ was between 12.8 and 13.3 AFR, I have a very very rich midband which I need to tune but each run it only went through these cells once. The timing is still fairly conservative, knock levels are low for the whole map.

Best run:

2.0745 second 60 foot
14.9645 second 1/4 mile
91.41mph terminal

The PFC is so much nicer to drive as, due to the timing tweaks, throttle response and pick up is a huge amount better, swapping back to the stock ECU made the car feel very lacking until further up the rev range.

As mentioned I still need to sort out a very rich couple of cells which are between I think 2.2k and 3.6k rpm (basically the mid to high load cruise range), need to get some additional data but just need to pull some fuel out of those cells.

What is interesting is that the 60 foot seems to be around the same at the moment (need more practice), seems that the additional 3mph top end shows that there is extra power - very interesting to find that some weight reduction had dropped the time 0.7 seconds. From here on in with the stock engine I won't be able to make many more gains, but that's fine, the PFC tuning has been interesting and I am getting a lot out of it now that I know what I am doing lol.

As a comparison, a stock EP3 Honda civic type R runs a 15.03 with lightly modded ones running mid to high 14s - plus the K20 has about 20% more power.

I am now happy that the car is now a 14 second car (just) - will work on making it more consistently a 14 second car - most of the other drag runs today with the PFC had the car running a 15.0 something, I had a 15.0056, 15.0028 and a 15.0473 lol.

Next mods for the car will be:

Fitting lightweight exhaust
Lighter race seat

[lamcote]

Very interesting. Very good to see your methodical approach to gathering all the relevant data so we can see what the real changes are.